The vehicle is a 2013 Honda Pilot (2nd gen). We are working on the passenger side, but the procedure for the driver side is completely identical, no surprises over there. The rear control arm bushings had completely worn out on both the driver and passenger sides. You can replace the rear bushing on its own but as the ball joints on the Pilot are aging the owner decided to replace the complete arm (the ball joint and arm are 1 piece and cannot be replaced separately). It honestly worked out much better this way as it's incredibly difficult to remove the ball joint without damaging it, especially cars exposed to road salt like this one. However this did result in a higher bill for the parts ($200 x 2 for the complete control arms vs $50 x 2 for the rear bushings. The goal here was to remove and replace the control arm with disconnecting anything else (tie rod end, lower shock bolts, etc). It can definitely be done as seen here, but it will take some patience and finesse. Getting a wheel alignment after this is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
Required tools:
- Penetrating oil
- hammer or steel mallet
- rubber mallet
- pry bar
- pickle forks (or 1 very big one). Best to rent a set if you can.
- 19mm wrench
- 3/8" drive 14 mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet (flexible head preferable, or use a swivel adapter)
- 1/2" drive 22mm socket
- 1/2" drive 19mm socket (impact socket if using impact wrench)
Optional tools:
- ratcheting 19mm wrench
- impact wrench
- long screwdriver (any type)
Torque specs (rounded up):
Rear bushing bracket to frame bolts (2) - 70 ft⋅lb
Front bushing bolt (1) - 120 ft⋅lb
Ball joint castle nut (1) - 80 ft⋅lb You can't get a torque wrench on this one.
Stabilizer bar bracket bolt (1) There are 2 of these bolts, but we only need to remove the rear one because it threads right into the lower control arm. You can't get a torque wrench on this one either.
Негізгі бет 2009-2015 Honda Pilot front lower control arm & ball joint replacement
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