For anyone attempting this, I can confirm this method works quite well. Hardest part is yanking the old expansion valve out the small hole (yank drivers side out first while pushing toward passengers side). After that the hardest part is replacing the two o-rings inside, and then getting the new foam ring stuffed in after installing the new expansion valve. TIP: The plate behind that the expansion valve bolts onto is just hanging on top of the two pipes. DON"T knock it back into the dashboard. I used a longer allen-wrench to pull the plate forward against my new valve after snapping it into place. Otherwise the tiny hex bolts just push the plate back and never thread in. These two tiny hex bolts install with a torque value of only 2.2 lb/ft. That's only 26.4 in/lbs on a 1/4" torque wrench. This is almost nothing but takes quite a few cranks to reach. Use a torque wrench and practice such a low setting on a large bolt first to get the feel for the click. BEWARE: The two o-rings against the expansion valve on the engine-bay side are a special design and can only be purchased at the dealer. They are weird rubber coated aluminum crush-washers and my overpriced dealer wanted $10 each . At least they had them in stock. BTW: If you're also replacing your compressor, the easiest way to do it is drain the radiator halfway, detach the upper rad-hose, remove the condenser, tilt the radiator forward and then remove the passengers side fan. Then there is PLENTY of room for the compressor to come out. It sound like a lot of work but it's super simple and gives you an opportunity to clean or replace the condenser (which makes a huge difference in efficiency). You need to remove the upper cowl and detach the grill so it pulls forward slightly (2 bolts and two pop-clips down inside). The grill won't come off it just pulls forward a little.
@WooSahNetwork
Жыл бұрын
What are the part numbers?
@egeg-nr4qs
Жыл бұрын
@@WooSahNetwork Part numbers are Seal (5/8") 80871-TK8-A01 and Seal (8mm) 80873-TK8-A01. The sequence TK8 means they were both specifically developed for the 2011 Odyssey. Since that time Honda started using them on the 2016+ Pilot & MDX as well as 2017+ Ridgeline.
@kamereno
11 ай бұрын
@@egeg-nr4qsnice
@bonnielinder9516
5 ай бұрын
Do you find the seals leak between the evaporator and the expansion valve?
@egeg-nr4qs
5 ай бұрын
@@bonnielinder9516 As a general rule, I replace any seal on a part I remove. Wasn't leaking, but I had to take it apart to get to the expansion valve.
@mattriffey240
3 ай бұрын
Thanks for this video. Several other videos I've seen involve taking out the glove compartment, blower and other items to do this job. Does the video you made remove all those steps? It sure seems like it.
@johnrichiequillopo5765
3 ай бұрын
No, you don't need to remove glove compartment, no removing blower, just the A/C Lines to make it easy to pull the lines out of the Expansion Valve. thanks
@kamereno
11 ай бұрын
Damn good job me and my helper were getting mad watching your video because you made it look so easy. we couldn’t get the little hex bolts started but it was that spacer with the treads for the hex bolts backed up when I put the valve on this was like two hours of us trying to start the bolts till I finally got it he had already stared takin the blower halfway out when I got it in… So my tip is be careful as you press the valve onto the lines. In my case I pushed the threaded spacer back and the bolts wouldn’t start.
@johnrichiequillopo5765
10 ай бұрын
thanks for your pointers.
@egeg-nr4qs
Жыл бұрын
Were you able to replace the 2 o-rings on the fitting behind expansion valve (behind the fire wall)? If so do you have any tips for getting the old ones off and the new ones on?
@johnrichiequillopo5765
Жыл бұрын
yes, use one of the picks to pull the O-rings. thanks
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