Really good tips here- glad it’s not just another basic settings video
@fruchtalarm9128
Ай бұрын
Uff! Riiichtig gutes video. Das mit dem Print Speed hat mir grad heute wieder nen Print matt/glossy gemacht. Danke für den Tipp!
@802Garage
Ай бұрын
At first I thought this was a Small Batch Factory video, hahaha. Good tips overall! Orca Slicer now has a setting to fix the inconsistent outer finish without removing slowing for layer cooling. It's called "Don't slow down for outer walls" and it's just below the setting you disabled. This is a better option if you are having cooling issues of any kind. Wow, 20 seconds later in the video you cover that, hahaha. Nevermind! Good stuff!
@malcolm4k270
22 күн бұрын
How you like orca? I have the p1s with bh app. Played with orca before I got my p1s and I feel like I like it better
@One_Stale_Donut
3 күн бұрын
Actually great tips, thank you for these
@ImSoMagic
21 күн бұрын
Summary 1. Avoid crossing wall 2. Outer/inner 3.1 Top/Botton surface concentric for round object 4. Increase overhang speed, and Dont slow down on outer walls in Filament 3.2. Concentric surface for top layer for round object 5. Print only object at the time
@oswaldoamaldonado6778
Ай бұрын
Buenísimo video. Por tu número de suscriptores pensé que este video no me aportaría tanto, pero de los tips que hablaste no me sabía ninguno. Nuevo suscriptor 👍🏻
@CookieEliminator
24 күн бұрын
Trick 6: if you didn't spend money on a printer buy a Bambu
@Factorian_Designs
22 күн бұрын
Can highly recommend as well 👍🏼
@jeffwhite9001
Ай бұрын
Excellent video, a couple I knew about but a few I didn't, thanks.
@MarkoVukovic0
25 күн бұрын
Excellent tips, thank you from a printing n00b; so much to learn!
@Arne.Bornheim
Ай бұрын
Thanks for these great tips! Definitely gonna up my printing game!
@TheOfficialOriginalChad
Ай бұрын
Another solution for the matte/glossy issue: Just slow down your outer walls. Most of the print is inner wall and infill, so there’s really very little benefit to a fast outer wall. Plus the “slow down for cooling” setting can save your prints.
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
True, but the Orca Slicer slicer solution to the problem is very good, mostly use that slicer until Bambu Studio implements that change as well.
@TheOfficialOriginalChad
Ай бұрын
@@Factorian_Designs definitely. They’re rolling out new features pretty often now as well.
@m1ck5k1
Ай бұрын
Am new’ish to your channel & liking your style & content. Thank you.
@drewmakesstuff
Ай бұрын
some good tips that I havent heard of before!
@dkaz94
Ай бұрын
Perfect. I was looking for such a guide
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
Glad I could help!
@danphamx
13 күн бұрын
This video is god tier. Well done!!!
@Factorian_Designs
13 күн бұрын
Thank you Dan, I am glad you like it!
@ariboss414
15 күн бұрын
Great video, good length, easy to listen to. Thanks
@markhadley4206
29 күн бұрын
Great video! Much appreciated. Keep up the awesome work on your designs!
@Factorian_Designs
28 күн бұрын
Thank you! I really appreciate it. I'll definitely keep the designs coming!
@TonyGrant.
Ай бұрын
That was excellent information. I have subscribed! I'll have to look at your other one now. I hope you do some more soon.
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
Definitely have a few more exciting video ideas in mind!
@MattJoyce01
12 күн бұрын
Thanks, I will try these. Good job.
@TS_Mind_Swept
22 күн бұрын
<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="481">8:01</a> Something worth noting about this, the slicer prince the objects by the order they were added (at least orca does), so to prevent crashing into a completed object should a later object have to be canceled for some reason, be sure to arrange the objects on the plate so that the object in the corner closest to where your printer parks is printed last (axe me how I know CringeHarrold)
@Factorian_Designs
22 күн бұрын
Great addition!
@squik2737
7 күн бұрын
Great tips and explanation. Love it!
@Sandra-sv3ow
Ай бұрын
Danke für das tolle video
@YrOnimuS
Ай бұрын
Subscribed! Richtig starke Tipps! Danke. :)
@Dr_Axton
Ай бұрын
the other upside of printing one part at a time is that in case of a print failure you can still have the already printed parts done. Also modern printers have an option to exclude certain parts, so if you see a failure you can skip printing it
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
Completely right, good addition to the video!
@SebastianCanale
Ай бұрын
Great video!!! Thanks a lot!
@LuckyLuke435
23 күн бұрын
Ein wirklich Hilfreiches Video danke =)
@TranquilityTerrace
18 күн бұрын
No doubt German attitude which I love. Great video!
@sangyookim2085
21 күн бұрын
this should be pinned as 3d printing bible
@fgilio
Ай бұрын
Awesome video, thanks!
@Zitropat
19 күн бұрын
Hi, does anyone here know if the Creality Print slicer has a feature similar to Avoid crossing wall? Thank you for your insights!
@Factorian_Designs
18 күн бұрын
Yes it does, take a look at the "combing" setting. Thank you for watching!
@MartinSchabbauer
9 күн бұрын
Thanks a lot
@tomcarroll6744
23 күн бұрын
Nice work and good info.
@miles-teg-pl
Ай бұрын
Great video, thx !
@fulv_uk
Ай бұрын
Great video thank you
@tinkerman1790
26 күн бұрын
Awesome 👏🏻 very useful tips 👍🏻
@Factorian_Designs
26 күн бұрын
Thank you!
@legionjames1822
Ай бұрын
epic tips.
@yayingzhang1506
19 күн бұрын
Life saver for my project
@Curious.antimony
Ай бұрын
Awesome!
@TBerq
Ай бұрын
My hands have been shaky ever since I've known myself as well. Don't worry about it too much ^^ Is there a some way to tell if my line widths are bad and understand if I should change them? I also really like your studio lighting setup.
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
The shaky hands comment was only supposed to be a light hearted comment, luckily I don't plan on becoming a surgeon! As long as your line width are around 0,4 - 0,6 mm you should be fine. Like said in some comments below, depending on the material type smaller line widths can reduce the strength of you part. So just be careful with that.
@mega5moose
Ай бұрын
Great video and tips. I’m new to the hobby (bambu a1) and it seems like all any one cares about is speed. I want the highest quality possible. Do you apply these settings and use them in bambu for all your prints?
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
I use "Avoid crossing walls" for almost every print, as well as "Don't slow outer wall" in Orca Slicer. The top layer pattern and wall print order are situational. Whenever I can, I only print one object at a time as well. I hope that answers your questions!
@mega5moose
Ай бұрын
@@Factorian_Designs it does. Thanks for your quick reply!
@JLSumo269
17 күн бұрын
What kind of 3d modeling software do you like do use to create your creations?
@Factorian_Designs
17 күн бұрын
I only use FreeCAD and depending on the design I switch to the Realthunder variation.
@AnnkurKumar
23 күн бұрын
Hi, 1. Do you sell end product or 3d file? 2. And how and where you sell these, can you name the platforms?? 3. And which software do you use for designing 3d print file??
@Factorian_Designs
22 күн бұрын
Hey! 1. & 2. I mainly sell STL files / make content. I still sell a few printed models on Etsy my self but I don't have a lot of production capacity. I love designing and would like to fully focus on that until the end of this year. You can see all the through my bio/description link. 3. I only use FreeCAD for all my designs.
@Pr77Pr77
Ай бұрын
If I print the outer walls first my printer sometimes prints the wall with holes/underextusion. This happens when it printed supports or infill before.
@victorjasa
18 күн бұрын
Love it
@doefler
Ай бұрын
Thank you for sharing these useful tips 👌
@boehserenkel
Ай бұрын
Walls: outer walls first also give ugly seams. Better go for inner outer inner (same problem with overhangs) or precise walls (orca - nearly the same optics but with good overhangs)
@Thewiruz1
8 күн бұрын
I use latest Cura myself, Where do i find travel optimization in Cura?
@Factorian_Designs
7 күн бұрын
Take a look at the combing setting. This should basically do the same.
@Thewiruz1
7 күн бұрын
@@Factorian_Designs Thanks! I thought it was something more than that
@jkbaer3086
19 күн бұрын
Good info. Thanks. Audio is poor though.
@Factorian_Designs
19 күн бұрын
Thank you for the feedback. Could you be a little more specific what part of the audio is poor? I will try to improve it for the next video and every detail helps. :)
@malcolm4k270
22 күн бұрын
What you like best orca or Bambu ?
@Factorian_Designs
22 күн бұрын
Orca, it currently is just a better Version of Bambu. Haven't noticed any disadvantages so far .
@TheOvenReheated
Ай бұрын
from what i know inner/outer/inner is better than outer/inner because it has less drawbacks? idk but ive always used in/out/in
@hotfix7387
Ай бұрын
You are correct. The inner/outer/inner, provided you have 3+ walls gives the benefit of the outer/inner tweak referenced here. Look for video titled "The ONE GAME-CHANGING Slicer SETTING... (Huge 3D Print Quality BOOST)" that goes more in depth as to why it's a better approach and he shows that overhangs aren't always worse when printing the Outer Wall before the connecting Inner Wall. That's why U do most of my prints IW/OW/IW with 3+ walls and most of the wall artifacts from bulging are gone and I have no noticeable overhand issues on my X1C.
@TheOvenReheated
Ай бұрын
@@hotfix7387 Yeah, I'm surprised we haven't made it a default considering how good modern printers are with cooling and such. Also the dimensional accuracy is a must.
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
You are corrects that inner/outer/inner is a very good setting most of the time. That being said, in the shown case we print only with two walls so "inner/outer/inner" results in exactly the same printing order as "inner/outer". As you can see in the video, outer wall quality is still better with "outer/inner" than the other two options. I would say if you want the best outer wall quality go for "outer/inner". If outer wall quality just has to be good and you want cleaner overhangs I would choose "inner/outer/inner". Great addition to the video! I will probably include a short explanation in one of the coming videos.
@TheOvenReheated
Ай бұрын
@@Factorian_Designs thanks so much for clarifying bro, after I did some thinking thats why I thought you didn't go over it. Great video with tips I didn't know before!
@hotfix7387
Ай бұрын
@@Factorian_Designs I look forward to your break down of the wall ordering in your coming videos. And ignore the haters, some people (especially engineers like me) sometimes lack people skills and have a very black and white/myopic view of the world and what people "should" say or do. "Should" is a common cognitive distortion that represents an expectation, and expectations are usually resentments waiting to happen. That's part of what I think happened in one of the other comments, that and lack of people skills and perspective. I appreciate your work.
@K40Keller
Ай бұрын
Na da sage ich doch mal nett Danke.
@Arsat74
Ай бұрын
My old cubes on a Kingroon KP3S still look MUCH more even. Is that due to the speed? because I printed them at 30 or 50.
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
I can assure you thats only due to the lighting, matte white filament and close up shots. I sold 3 different slower printers when I got my Bambu because the quality is so much better even at high speeds ... Really hope the competition steps their game up, one brand dominating like this usually is not good for the marked.
@GARBO96
Ай бұрын
What is avoid crossing the walls in cura
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
In Cura its called "combing mode", located in the travel section
@GARBO96
Ай бұрын
@@Factorian_Designs thank you
@Gienbfu
Ай бұрын
Have you used scarf seams before?
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
Only a little. I need to try it out more for sure! Do you use it regularly?
@Gienbfu
Ай бұрын
@@Factorian_Designs I've only used it a few times, both with ok results. Its an improvement over the normal seams, but not as much as I was hoping for. Seems like it has potential and just needs to be dialed in
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
Yea most of the times they looked better, but sometimes got worse seams on overhangs. If they improve those as well I will take another look.
@user-qu8hg7rh5t
Ай бұрын
geiles video, aber diese Voice Cracks hahahah. Ich liebs!
@chipcode5538
Ай бұрын
Thanks for the tips, but shouldn’t you print the vase in vase mode, just set the perimeter thickness to 1 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle works great for many cases.
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
Yes you are right, you can always do that. A 1 mm perimeter with a 0,4 mm nozzle is maybe pushing it a little far but 0,8 mm usually works great for me. That being said, sometimes times people like to print the vase with thicker walls because they like the look more.
@syedhasnain7456
26 күн бұрын
Hi do you need a website ?
@Factorian_Designs
26 күн бұрын
I already have my own website so I am not sure what you mean by that.
@gorgonbert
Ай бұрын
Something wrong with your mic?
@walterincardona4187
Ай бұрын
In other simpler words: better going back to print with the ender 3 😂😂 new printers are fast, but what about the quality? These tricks you suggest are correct but they increase the time of printing
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
Even with all the shown settings on, my Bambu prints around 3 times faster than my Ender 3. I even sold all my other printers as I just didn't use them anymore. Only the first ender has to stay because of all the modding and emotional attachment :D
@ArkatzStore
Ай бұрын
Plus the quality on Bambulab printers is far, FAR, better than shitty Ender 3 ones. Trust me, I sold all my Enders too with zero regrets 😊
@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel
10 күн бұрын
I design 3D terrain for tabletop board games. I had a Wanhao i3 and CR10v2, both calibrated and heavily modified. I was mainly printing at .2mm. I got a Bambu X1C and I have to say my workflow has drastically changed. I print at super draft .28 mode, at regular speed. The quality is equal and at times better than .2mm on both Wanhao and CR10. the i3 prints at 45mm/sec, my CR10 at 75 to 100mm depending on the terrain type I print. The Bambu at 200mm. In my case, it’s a huge game changer. Workflow and quality. I have a video that shows the quality difference in settings with the Bambu. I didn’t do a side by side with my other printers as they went the way of the dodo bird.
@user-wf9oh1yn3h
23 күн бұрын
Dude should trim his nails…. 😬😬😬
@Factorian_Designs
22 күн бұрын
I did it right before, anything shorter than that looks weird to me 😬
@sierraecho884
Ай бұрын
The line width rule is nonsense. Physically a printer can not print smaller lines than the orface opening and even this is not possible. A line with of 0.4mm with a 0.4mm nozzle is physically impossible because the line would be simply a perfectly round ball in a cross section. Your line width should be somewhere 25% higher than the nozzle opening up to as wide as your flat spot on the nozzle is for maximus strength. The only reason a nozzle of 0.4mm prints a line of 0.2mm is through bridging and other small tricks where the movement of the print head is rapid thus resulting in a non exact extrusion. People still don´t understand how this works... And please don´t tell how I don´t know, I am an mech. engineer and work with 3D printing even before you could buy a FDM machine for home use. 0.4mm nozzle should print 0.45mm - 0.8mm line width roughly speaking. I can already see the problem if you talk about "better accuracy with outer wall first configuration" the reason for subpar tolerances is you have not calibrated your machine at all. You have not used the X-Y expansion at all. People also don´t value in materials hrinkage on 150mm+ prints and wonder why the part is too small or odd looking because it has shrunk is some dimensions and did not in others.
@deadlyapollo
Ай бұрын
Not a single soul is going to listen to you for two reasons: 1. Your grammar is atrocious. 2. You come off as an arsehole. And you're just plain wrong. You said it yourself, there's trickery involved to make line widths smaller than the nozzle opening....
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
In practice, the line width rule works quite well, no matter how you try to argue it away. Theory is fine, but results are what really matter in the end. However, I welcome you to post your own video to convince me otherwise. The source of information on print accuracy for the outer wall print sequence comes from the slicer's wiki itself. I am sure they know exactly what they are talking about. I am normally all ears for constructive feedback and even encourage it, but flexing with your education on top is not the right way to bring an argument across. Most tech KZitemrs, myself included, have higher education in this area and don’t care about it at all. We are all here to learn, no matter what education you have.
@peterfoldesi483
Ай бұрын
@@Factorian_Designsif you reduce the line width below the nozzle size the part will be weak, no matter what you do with it, because there's zero pressure beneath the nozzle, simply lays down some plastic instead of pressing it against the previous layer If you try to do the same trick with let's say asa, the part WILL crumble in your hands My recommendation which gives good layer adhesion is nozzle size + layer height For .2 height and .4 nozzle that means .6 width With this number the plastic will cover the whole hole of the nozzle and gives some good layer adhesion without reducing surface quality Tested the method with asa, abs, both gave excellent layer adhesion with the PROPER temperature ofc, around the maximum the material can handle
@peterfoldesi483
Ай бұрын
And, since it's not a bowden machine, use the arachne generator instead of classic, usually it gives better quality with direct drive Bowden sometimes can be problematic because of the fluctuation of nozzle pressure, but linear/pressure advance can control that to some extent
@Factorian_Designs
Ай бұрын
@@peterfoldesi483 You are right, smaller line width will make your print a little weaker with PLA. But the video is about having clean prints, where a smaller line width sometimes still is a valid choice. For planters, in this case strength is often less important than a clean look. But like I said in the video, here this was just used as a little workaround to get better travel paths, by no means should this be used on every print. In the past I had better results in "Classic Mode" but maybe I should give Arachne another go. Thank you for the input!
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