SERENE: 0:40 Considerations beyond just SERENE: 14:40 Cordelette Materials & Knots: 26:31 Rigging examples: Standard cordelette anchor: 03:07 Cordelette around a tree: 12:57 2-piece cordelette-style anchor: 22:12 Two separate slings: 29:52 Sliding X: 31:54 Sliding X with Limiter Knots: 35:24 The Quad: 37:36 Two Quickdraws: 40:46 Using the rope itself: 42:49 The Equalette: 46:08 The ACR anchor: 48:53 Using anchors: Rappel anchors: 52:44 Extend over an edge: 59:32 Top-roping: 01:00:42 Connecting yourself during multipitch: 01:02:00
@climbing200
3 жыл бұрын
Please pin this to the top! Also, great video, and thanks for the breakfown
@peglegthered
7 жыл бұрын
This is legit! People pay lots of $$ for this kind of information. Thanks for the upload, OP.
@peglegthered
7 жыл бұрын
Also, I would practice toning down the upspeak aka uptalk aka upward inflections. It just doesn't sound right for men to be using it so often; whether it's deliberate or unintentional. Just my opinion.
@gordonneverdies
7 жыл бұрын
peglegthered I've always wondered why so many climbers talk like that. Daniel Woods does it constantly.
@medievaljon
7 жыл бұрын
I'm assuming its just nervousness
@hellabull
6 жыл бұрын
Nope. That's just the way Rob talks... ALL the time. He's a really nice guy and speaks softly.
@col8179
5 жыл бұрын
peglegthered my opinion is you should shut your useless mouth, your a nobody. I bet your more feminine than your father is you useless joke.
@xsteevox
7 жыл бұрын
I think this is the longest youtube tutorial I have ever watched straight through. You kept my attention. That is a job well done.
@n0rdicbynature
7 жыл бұрын
ditto
@grandpaspoopsock
7 жыл бұрын
Wow thanks for this insanely comprehensive video! I cant believe i paid $40 for some amateurs at rei to show me a simple masterpoint as they tried to remember the acronyms in serene... for 2 hours... Ive done a lot of research and this was by far the most comprehensive source I've seen, and ontop of that it was easy to follow along with, without any extra nonsense. Thanks again man!
@baghaei90
7 жыл бұрын
Wow, one of the best vids I have seen on anchor building. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this.
@ashokcaptain4088
7 жыл бұрын
+1, several times.
@col8179
7 жыл бұрын
The Truth B I agree best vid I've encountered on KZitem
@xxrgxxcasco
7 жыл бұрын
Wow, that last bit was unnecesary!! If someone TRIES to flame on you here, that someone would end up burned by the rest of us... This video is GOLD and I WILL pass it out to my partners once they start learning those basics! A million thanks for this!
@juicyfruit100x
7 жыл бұрын
I would pay for this video. Thanks so much for your time and energy to create such a valuable learning experience for me and others to expand from.
@JoeArioto
5 жыл бұрын
Me at 11:37 pm, “I’ll watch about 5 minutes of this.” Me at 12:44 am, “Okay, what other videos does this guy have?” Amazing job!!! Thanks so much.
@frenchfrypizza3184
4 жыл бұрын
I was up till 1:30 am last night SMH
@milkymeats
4 жыл бұрын
exactly me .. haha
@kharicoen7962
3 жыл бұрын
i guess im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a method to log back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly lost my account password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@turnertony3060
3 жыл бұрын
@Khari Coen instablaster :)
@kharicoen7962
3 жыл бұрын
@Turner Tony thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@schmushenmush
5 жыл бұрын
me, an hour and seven minutes ago: "yea, like I'm going to watch an hour and seven minutes of anchor building" well worth it. great teaching mindset on display here. thanks!
@schmushenmush
2 жыл бұрын
me, 2 years later: "I should probably watch this whole thing again just to be sure"
@erickinho1BRA
2 жыл бұрын
@@schmushenmush lol i thought the same thing xD
@Rivalmusicofficial
7 жыл бұрын
Best video on anchors I've seen on KZitem. Great job Rob. Videos like this save lives, keep it up.
@jasonwu5415
6 жыл бұрын
The most comprehensive video on climbing anchors I've seen on KZitem. I would recommend this to any new climber.
@izzychen7537
7 жыл бұрын
This is THE best introduction to anchors video on KZitem. Great job, Rob!
@roeandnoir
5 жыл бұрын
I like the fact that he seems two seconds away from laughing throughout this whole thing. Great info, But way worth it just for the laughs!
@79istp
7 жыл бұрын
Well done! Something that could make your next vid even better is to have the little points on the timeline at the different anchors, making it easier to find the one you were looking for.
@bertieblackman8791
6 жыл бұрын
This would be an awesome addition to a great video
@JFox4587
2 жыл бұрын
This is an incredible video. I’ve watched it a couple of times in pieces and once all the way through. I refer back to it often. And I recommended to many experienced climbers, and I’m 12 years in the game
@joaocamarajmc
4 жыл бұрын
This 'long' tutorial shows how many scenarios we can come across while climbing... and they're not even 1% of them all! It's important to higlight the 'get info from multiple sources' statement from the beginning. Outstanding, Rob Buscak!
@alemakhoul4899
10 ай бұрын
Best YT vid on Anchorage, it’s a shame I had to scroll so much to revisit this masterpiece
@chrisminichello1698
5 жыл бұрын
fantastic video, soo damn good it made it into my personal notebook. thanks for the free 200$ class on anchors. it mostly solidified my preexisting knowledge of anchors but i learned a few new things. thanks for the hard work done to make this
@Surfsailwaves
Жыл бұрын
Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou - this was gripping, just the right tone and pace, a free masterclass
@stwhop
6 жыл бұрын
I have never sat watching an instructional video for over an hour without yawning and thinking of turning it off. Then I watched this straight through without flinching. I've been searching for this to review, refresh, and double check my habits and this was awesome! Thank you so much Rob! This was awesome.
@tainopr4356
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks for taking the time to make this video Rob. I think it was very informative and entertaining. I now understand SERENE better than before your video.
@tylervelasquez5639
Жыл бұрын
the fact 7 years later this is still the best youtube video for starting anchor building! ita pack full of info.
@HEALInformatics
5 жыл бұрын
You can read all about those few KZitemrs who for some wacky reason gave the thumbs down - their stories are in the past several years' edition of "Accidents in North American Mountaineering". Not merely joking - failed anchors systems do occur, often with disastrous consequences. Incidentally, it seems that extension is perhaps over-emphasized in that it adds only a minor additional force; think about it if you take a longish leader fall and then the anchor takes an extra 18" or so, with dynamic belay and rope stretch it is only a minimal added force on the anchor. Overall the information is excellent but I did skip the review of the equalization demo - if I wanted to see it twice, I would simply back up the video a bit. But I concur producing this video was a very nice gift to the climbing community when most climbing vids are largely self-promotions, trip logs or rock videos. This is really solid useful information that can save lives and undoubtedly has added a huge margin of safety to many climbers skills repertoire. Thanks Rob!
@leontiefmodell650
3 жыл бұрын
Precise, correct, concise and even pointing out trade-offs between the various anchoring methods. Can't stress enough how excellent the quality of this video is, for everybody starting out building multi-point-anchors. Very well done, sir, and all of this, in just an hour.
@khaliloved
7 жыл бұрын
Easy to follow, detailed and definitely worth the watch! Thank you Rob ☺️
@weimaraner3240
3 жыл бұрын
The article that inspired you to make this video reminds me that there are many selfless people willing to put their lives in jeopardy to save others. The only time in my life to be on a helicopter is the trip that saved my life. Please recognize and support these rescue personnel.
@raquel4365
6 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much! Your thoroughness, repetition, clarity and explanation will stick with me as I practice these anchors in real life settings. Appreciate your time and effort immensely. Solid!
@ironfront9573
4 жыл бұрын
Not often you come across a "primer" in anything over an hour long! Extremely thorough, which is exactly what I need as I am trying to teach myself this stuff. We are currently in Covid lockdown of 2020. I wouldn't be able to get professional instruction even if I did have the money to pay for it!
@snurdturd
7 жыл бұрын
I only boulder climb, and I still watched this video all the way through! Such great information and explained so unbelievably well, that even I who has never top roped, could still follow. Thanks!
@sebabalo
4 жыл бұрын
by far the best video on the subject. A very professional work rarely seen on youtube. Congratulations on your knowledge and work. I hope to see more videos of you.
@pobz3750
3 жыл бұрын
Best video on anchor building out there. Great work!!!
@lukerlozier
6 жыл бұрын
Rob Busack, you do a fantastic job in this video. I give you a very high 'SERENE' rating!! You provide a great blend of ideals, practicality and precautions. I hope that I will find more instruction from you here on KZitem, and I will be applying some of what I learned from you right away as I improve my skills for sport, trad and TR climbing outdoors.
@DustinUnderwoodMKE
7 жыл бұрын
Knocked it out of the park. Well done.
@nicod1886
4 жыл бұрын
This is one top notch production 👍. Thanks for taking the time to make it and sharing.
@prnet
4 жыл бұрын
A saucerful of (secrets) knowledge revealed. 90 mins of claps for your super interesting lesson.
@calholli
3 жыл бұрын
By far the most I've learned about anchors in a single sitting.. awesome
@aftoncarlson5373
3 жыл бұрын
Top notch! You're a great teacher. Clear and thorough. Thank you for taking the time.
@znutar
7 жыл бұрын
outstanding video....really impressed and even shocked that you included the ACR which is not a well known system. Sent this video to my wife as she wants to do more leading and setting up of anchors when we trad climb. I will recommend this video to anyone who is looking to learn about anchors as you have really done a great job of illustrating pretty much everything that people need to know about the subject
@brerrabbit4265
3 жыл бұрын
This is the best video I've ever watched on this subject. Held my attention throughout.
@n0rdicbynature
7 жыл бұрын
this is one of the best instructional videos iv'e seen yet. it is unbiased and covers a ton of info. thank you so much for taking the time to make this!
@jeremyrosene157
7 жыл бұрын
Very thorough and good video. Thank you. Also, I love how you wore a helmet the whole time even though you were in a building.
@chinozerus667
3 жыл бұрын
Awesome video and well structured. My German heart is delighted.
@yvespigeon3021
3 жыл бұрын
Le meilleur tutorial sur le ''net''. Congrats. You're the man
@guloguloguy
3 жыл бұрын
....THANK YOU, FOR THIS EXCELLENT DEMOSTRATION, AND EXPLANATION, OF SO MANY GREAT DETAILS, ABOUT CLIMBING ANCHOR POINT ATTACHMENTS!!! WOW!!!!... HEY,.... I AM SO GLAD THAT YOU MENTIONED NOT TO USE A "FLAT FIGURE 8 KNOT" LOADED "OFF-CENTER".... (BECAUSE IT COULD FAIL ("CAPSIZE")....
@aisle2
5 жыл бұрын
This is one of the best anchor instructional videos on KZitem. Thanks!
@tobyquinn9739
4 жыл бұрын
That was the greatest outro possible haha. You did a great job, thanks for the redundancy and for the quality video.
@gadfly2947
7 жыл бұрын
Well done sir! You have won the bad ass of the day award. Thanks for all the info :)
@leandrozacaria8642
3 жыл бұрын
El mejor tutorial de anclajes que he visto!!! Muy completo!!! Recomendado 100 %!!!👌👌👌👌👍
@allank930
7 жыл бұрын
Best video on climbing anchors I've seen on KZitem. Great work Rob, thanks for taking the time +++
@4teetageevents855
4 жыл бұрын
one of the best videos about Climbing Anchors on youtube!
@1979DrNick
7 жыл бұрын
Great video, very comprehensive and clear. Useful analysis of each option without being prescriptive. Thumbs up.
@rwdyer2263
6 жыл бұрын
Adding my vote of excellence for a job well done. Thank you so much, Rob!
@Hiker1792
7 жыл бұрын
Excellent video Rob! Please keep producing and continuing to climb safe!
@dustinc1820
7 жыл бұрын
wow man, great job! Concise, informative AND fun to watch!
@Magicmafiaman
7 жыл бұрын
Great video, you laid out these concepts crystal clear!
@JonSteitzer
7 жыл бұрын
Great video and a huge contribution to public climbing knowledge. Hilarious that you included the "ACR" and kept the acronym. Good stuff!
@martinwolczyk891
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for taking your personal time out and making such and informative and comprehensive video! Hope to see more of these in future, again well done!
@felixre7
7 жыл бұрын
Such a good video, thanks for taking the time to go through all these anchors. So hard to find good information like this all in one place
@ko6207
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you. One of the best and most informative tutorials that I’ve ever watched!
@flach99
7 жыл бұрын
thumbs up for coming close to comprehensive anchor building
@cyclops3805
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot for taking the time to shot and edit this video, very informative, and much appreciated.
@TheShadowIsMoving
7 жыл бұрын
This is the best video I've seen on anchor options. Thank you for taking the time to make this
@eurik
2 жыл бұрын
Amazing video! Elaborate and concise. Learned a lot.
@Sambeeeer
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for all of your hard work in making this video!
@josephjansen-hedrick1337
4 жыл бұрын
this video should have a million views. Why isnt this the first video for anchor building when you search it!
@Sicnus
3 жыл бұрын
Such a joy to watch! Through! Thank you so much.
@miketaiwanwalkcity6355
6 жыл бұрын
Wonderful video. I've watched few months ago and once more today. This is my reference in setting anchors. Thank you very much Rob !
@giantrobot5804
7 жыл бұрын
Hey, thanks so much for this. I am getting back into climbing after a long break! You didn't fluff it and it all came flooding back. Really appreciate this and your other videos. Subscribed!
@madspaniard1
7 жыл бұрын
Great job, one of the best anchor building tutorials I've seen. Very thorough and precise. Will be testing some of these out for myself (at home first of course) Thanks!
@jakebaldwin6450
7 жыл бұрын
Nice Video! I really liked that you were wearing a helmet. :) Somehow it seemed to give you more authority. Ha!
@kamikazemartinez
4 жыл бұрын
Reeally really good job done on this video. Thanks a lot for sharing
@tylerstockdale9437
6 жыл бұрын
This is so awesome Rob! It took me a few times, but I finally figured out why those blocks behind you look so familiar. There mountaineers logo is sitting right there in the gear shed!
@StabBacker
4 жыл бұрын
very informative video, all I could think off were mentioned and/or explained in the texts :D good job and thank you for making this so that people who don't want to spend the money on what might seem like expensive courses, might live another day if an accident were to occur! respect
@TheTennesseeYankee
5 жыл бұрын
Great video, very thorough and complete - thanks Rob!
@BradBansner
3 жыл бұрын
Great summary, thanks for making this!
@benstrober3710
6 жыл бұрын
Loved it. Fantastic. Great attitude. Learned a lot.
@kristofferjeppesen
7 жыл бұрын
Very useful. You explain quite complex subjects in a very educational way - thank you so much!
@ricardobecerril1783
4 жыл бұрын
Your fucken great. I loved the video. Your on point and very clear. I wished I would of found you long ago. You would of saved me tons of cash and time. But nothing beats a instructor that is knowledgeable and proficient in his skills.
@leejones9827
4 жыл бұрын
Just watched this, again, in full, for like the 5th time in 2 years!
@aacc2622
4 жыл бұрын
Wow this is the best tutorial, your speech and instructions are perfect thanx for posting
@landminze
7 жыл бұрын
Awesome video. Thanks so much!
@bencameron9382
6 жыл бұрын
Awesome video, Rob! Thanks for putting it together - tons of great info here. You rock!
@arifbushcraft5338
7 жыл бұрын
you are awesome man. thanks for the knowledge. i really appreciate it and will put it in a good use.
@koggism
7 жыл бұрын
Very clear instruction and detailed, best I've seen on this subject. Great vid.
@vincentlaw4580
6 жыл бұрын
great video, reminds me many knowledge learnt in the past where easily being forgotten.
@kwulf
7 жыл бұрын
Excellent, thank you for all the work. Lots more to learn but this is a great start.
@robertseese4225
6 жыл бұрын
Well done. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
@mrspoulpe
7 жыл бұрын
Wow this is the best video about anchor I have ever seen!!
@michellefoote1743
7 жыл бұрын
Awesome video, so comprehensive, thanks for taking the time to do this!
@MarkGodwin
7 жыл бұрын
This was great! Thanks for spending the time to make it. I would love to see a video on how to safely clean a sport route and tradeoffs for different approaches people take, both for lowering and rappelling. Would also enjoy seeing what your preferred method is for that as well.
@RobBusack
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks!! I really appreciate this and all the other positive feedback I've been getting here, it means a lot to me! I agree, it's tempting to make a new video on cleaning a sport route. There are a bunch of existing videos out there that are great, but none quite exactly show all the safety elements I personally like to incorporate. Unfortunately I don't think I'll get around to making a new video anytime soon, sorry :( In the meantime, I'll say this: The Outdoor Research video on cleaning a sport route by *lowering* nailed it, it's excellent: kzitem.info/news/bejne/zJ2X3aWKjZ-cgZw Marginally, my personal preference is to rappel, since there's less chance for a communication error between me and my belayer. I might also just be biased by the fact that rappelling to clean is what I happened to learn first. The difference between rappelling & lowering isn't that big of a deal. When I do rappel, I: 1) always knot the ends of the rope, 2) always use a setup that stops if I let go (using an autoblock is the most common way to do this,) and finally… 3) test before I trust (i.e. before completely unclipping my PA from the anchor, I verify the rappel setup holds my weight by sitting back on it.) I also consistently do all three of those things every time so they're all habits, all automatic and fast for me to do; rather than something extra I need to stop and think about based on them being more important or less important in different climbing contexts. Update: I did find a pair of videos that are almost exactly how I clean and rappel after all. Cleaning & rappelling part 1: kzitem.info/news/bejne/r4OJuoKnb4WLiWU Cleaning & rappelling part 2: kzitem.info/news/bejne/mIts2ph7nqh7mqg Of course, people can clean and rappel however they'd like. There are 1,000 different right answers. Some people choose not to use any of the extra safety steps I mentioned, and most of the time they're just fine. Adding extra safety steps just reduces the statistical chance of a mistake getting through unnoticed and doing you bodily harm somehow. Could a mistake get through one in a hundred times? Or one in a thousand? Or one in ten-thousand? I don't know, and it's everyone's personal choice how they want to balance their approach to safety.
@zool8looz806
7 жыл бұрын
By far best video out there, thanks for uploading!
@yvespigeon4212
3 жыл бұрын
Best seen yet. Bravo. You rock :)
@jeffnhnl
7 жыл бұрын
great video.Thanks for taking the time to produce this video!
@johnsoplete
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much, very detailed and well explained. Really appreciate the time and effort on teaching this kind of things, it's really important people educate about safety on climbing.
@GroundStudies
6 жыл бұрын
Excellent content. Thanks for taking the time to put this out there for us wannabes.
@z1522
3 жыл бұрын
At 43:00 on, using alpine butterfly knots to easily adjust lengths, and where pulls are directed makes the rope the best option; a clove hitch at the end/top piece is fast and easy to adjust as well, the impact loads are almost always going to be lower than with any sling system.
@11235855
4 жыл бұрын
Excellent video!. Complete and didactic! and It didn't feel long at all :-).
@mileswandered8289
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for sharing!! Watched the entire video. Learned so much! And now I am inspired to learn more. You have successfully furthered my knowledge on climbing anchors :)
@czmiel8526
6 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much for this useful material. Presented and explained in a very simple manner... Simple great
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