Pretty awesome trick! If I don't have the money to by a torque wrench to meet its specifications I'm definitely going to try this! Thanks for the video, definitely deserve a like!
@Grarder
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching! Can't deny, a torque wrench is easier, but this trick has served me well on several occasions.
@kealahau6727
3 жыл бұрын
You can t hold and help the bar when he pulls on it !!! All the force as to go only thru the scale...
@Trev0r98
4 жыл бұрын
Here's my "trick" (and i've never bought a torque wrench or used one on any of my cars - about a dozen of them, from a 1972 Chevy Malibu, to a 2003 Mercedes-Benz S430 to 2014 Honda Accord, from small to major brake, suspension and engine service - even head gasket replacements): I simply get a black Sharpie pen (i've even used white-out sometimes), and draw a line at the 12 o'clock position (or wherever feasible) across the top half of the bolt face, and onto the outside of the hole where the bolt goes, so it's a solid line. With a regular socket wrench I first loosen the bolt (the first initial "crack" when the bolt "unsticks"). I note that the black index line i made is then barely broken. Then I cinch the bolt back up tight again, so the line halves are lined up again, just to make sure, and to "get a feel". Then I quickly loosen again, this time counting the revolutions on the socket wrench until the last thread of the bolt is still just barely engaged in the hole. Then I finally take the bolt out. Then I re-insert it until it just catches or "starts" the first thread on the hole. Then I test tighten it again, counting up the rotations on the wrench, until the very end, noting when it's starting to tighten up...then I cinch it up tight again, until the two halves of the black index line that I made line up again. Now I must say that I've gotten so good at this, I no longer need to test-tighten it back up again from the initial loosen. I'm confident enough now to completely skip that step. I've actually tested this procedure against a friend's very high-end digital torque wrench, and I've always been within .5% ! Which is a fine tolerance for any top-tier garage. This sounds very laborious as I describe it here, but it's really not, in practice. It's so second nature to me now - I get it done so fast, I'm almost as quick as an ace mechanic with his fancy-schmancy $250 dollar digital torque wrench. Of the dozen or so cars I've owned and worked on like this, all ran great afterwards, never had any problems.
@potadro2210
3 жыл бұрын
Tldr: draw line nd go by feelz
@Trev0r98
3 жыл бұрын
@@potadro2210 A neat summary. However, I did address the "Tldr" aspect, where I said "This sounds very laborious as I describe it here, but it's really not, in practice." Some peeps want tons of detail. Getting the torque spec right on bolts - without using a torque wrench - is serious business.
@francismotzko8487
3 жыл бұрын
Just thinking, could you weld an old socket on that bar at 4 feet and now use a regular torque wrench on the end set to 45 lbs instead of a scale to get 180 ft lbs torque?
@Grarder
3 жыл бұрын
I'd want to check the math, but something like that would definitely work!
@reinaldogonzalez6045
5 жыл бұрын
first: you did not teach how to use the piece of black metal for poley, second: it is assumed that no one has to exert any force on the tube, the force is only done when pulling the fish scale. But I get the idea, thanks
@Grarder
5 жыл бұрын
The black piece of metal was just a piece of angle iron with some holes mounted to match my main pulley holes. Bolt it where the main pulley goes to keep the engine from turning. Not sure who told me about that trick. True, I am ignoring other forces like gravity, but it did the trick. That being said, I also highly recommend owning a giant torque wrench! Totally worth the investment if you do this stuff at all frequently.
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