For more info (like sets and reps for treatment), see the full write-up here: www.hoopersbeta.com/library/a2-pulley-manual-for-climbers
@gmanojyadav89
4 жыл бұрын
Keep up the good work guys
@reigneduardo6732
3 жыл бұрын
instablaster
@willmurrin9344
3 жыл бұрын
This channel is full of the best climbing videos on the internet. Thank you for all the hard work you clearly put into these. I'll buy a shirt to support you all!
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
@@willmurrin9344 thank you for the support!
@UrsantaHoHoHo
Жыл бұрын
hi there, how's it going? Could you explain why I popped my A3 pulley today during a 3finger open drag side pull? it wasn't a crimp at all!! i specifically did a drag to minimize the risk, but it happened anyways. Please provide insights to this question for me, thank you so much.
@jonnyra1535
3 жыл бұрын
This is one of, if not the most helpful videos I’ve ever watched on KZitem. THANK YOU!!!
@m.droberts5206
2 жыл бұрын
Ditto that
@dflyindutchman1
Жыл бұрын
For sure! Well done!
@FancyWafflesFTW
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks Jason and Emile for such an in-depth video!
@omjingo
3 жыл бұрын
Im a CHT and really love your approach to pulley injuries especially for climbers. Most climbers are a bit more eager to return to climbing after an injury and really need a good compromise between getting that climbing itch taken care of as well as good quality healing. Nice Job and thank you for this!
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
CHT's are great! I'm fortunate to get to speak with a couple of them all week :) Appreciate your feedback.
@christopherdodge9333
4 жыл бұрын
I have a nagging finger that has more issues with my A3/A4 area than my A2 area. From many conversations I have had with other climbers, it seems the A4 injury is just as common but most videos and literature are heavily A2-centric. Do most videos focus on the A2 because it is that much more common, or because an A2 injury is more severe? Is the A3/A4 information lumped in with A2 information because all of the rehab equivalent? I'd love to see a video focusing on the A4 and/or A3 pulleys.
@HoopersBeta
4 жыл бұрын
A2 is more common based upon literature and has been shown to take on the most stress during the crimp position. A3 and A4 injuries, depending on the mechanism, can definitely have a similar approach to what we discuss for the A2. The bowstring test won't be the same for the A4, of course, so there are some differences. But your tissue mobilization techniques, range of motion, tissue loading, etc. all still apply here :)
@lukasbaldo5022
3 жыл бұрын
How about dynamic movements on jugs like for example the speed wall?
@dennisliew
3 жыл бұрын
My A2 pulley on my middle finger used to be really tender to touch, but not so much anymore. Although it's still a little swollen. The finger now feels stiff/limited when I wake up in the morning, but it gets better throughout the day or after I warm up my fingers through tendon glides. How should I be approaching this if it technically doesn't really hurt when I'm doing the rehab exercises?
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
That's great that the mobility improves just through tendon glides. That's a good sign. The stiffness in the AM is part of the healing as the interstitial pressure can build over night due to increased fluid accumulation in the area as it works on continuing it's healing. It sounds like you can start some light tissue loading and work your way up through the rehab process!
@dennisliew
3 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta Thank you for your input! 😊
@stanvandervoort2240
3 жыл бұрын
How much force am I supposed to put into the palm crimps? It feels like the only reason it hurts is because I push too hard. Puddy crimps are mostly fine.
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
That's a great question and why I eventually like to use things like puddy or farmer crimps, because they are measurable. The palm crimps are more about your self control. You can vary the amount of force you create entirely off of how much force you create lol. The great, positive, thing about this, is that you can produce as much or as little force as needed while NOT producing pain ;) BUT, the hard part about this, is that it is not measurable so it is harder to track your progress. So to answer your question: you should only be applying as much force as to create little to no discomfort, but enough to load the tissue so we start to promote positive changes to our healing tissue. Great question.
@stanvandervoort2240
3 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta Thanks a lot for the reply! That clears it up to me.
@theDomCorporation
4 жыл бұрын
I know people constantly say it but you deserve so much more recognition.. Such regular high quality content should have way more views!
@bboyHarrypotter
4 жыл бұрын
dude you make really high quality videos. this is awesome
@iaml4388
3 жыл бұрын
Hey Dr Hoops, I think I just experienced my first A2 pulley injury and I just wanted to thank you for providing this outstanding level of climber specific information. You guys are doing an amazing job and really helping out everyone in the community. Hugs your way
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the comment! Sorry to hear about your injury but I hope this information helps you in your recovery!
@Josh_A_Lu
Жыл бұрын
Curious about the timeframing for testing: Are these results for testing immediately after injury, or is it okay to do these tests and judge accurately 1-3 days later. For me if i had done the tests the same day it would've for sure been a partial tear, but a few days later it feels not super painful and by the chart provided it could be a strain
@MrKittiemoo
4 жыл бұрын
This video was a good wake up call for me to be patient with my strain. Fingers take a long time to build strength and that’s something I don’t like to believe 😂. It is good to have an in depth explanation/plan on what I can do to get back to full strength safely and effectively!
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Awesome! Yes, one of the most challenging components of training is exactly that: patience. The body takes much more time than the mind wants to allow it :) Stay strong, stay safe, and happy climbing!
@Ascentyon
4 жыл бұрын
Please say/overlay the measurements in kgs also.
@HoopersBeta
4 жыл бұрын
You're absolutely right! Will start doing that in future videos. Thanks for catching us there.
@sam.hockley
3 жыл бұрын
Awesome video, thank you! With farmer crimps, what is the ideal frequency to aim for when starting that phase of recovery? Should this be a daily set (or more), or would it be advisable to just do these 2-3 times a week interspersed with palm crimps/tendon glides?
@robertdavis1783
Жыл бұрын
Did a less-than-controlled dynamic grab to a crimp and heard a quiet little “pop” on my left ring finger yesterday. Time for rehab! Luckily it seems on the mild strain side, but will be extra carefully following the schedule laid out here. One thing I’m surprised no one ever mentions: one arm climb training! I occasionally do this even when I feel normal, as it gives you an opportunity to laser in on precise footwork and balancey, slabby problems. Pretty much rockets me down to the easiest, lowest boulders in the gym, but it sure beats not going at all!
@melvinchua5683
4 жыл бұрын
hey man, just wanna say thank you for producing such a video for us climbers. Its really informative and answered so many burning questions I've been trying to ask but got vague to no answers from. Hope to recover soon and get back climbing :)
@HoopersBeta
4 жыл бұрын
Absolutely! Thanks for your kind words. Hope you can get back to climber quickly!
@shanedubbs4830
10 ай бұрын
I have heard pops a couple times and was always worried about injury, always heard it was indicative of a pully tear. glad to hear it can be like cracking your knuckles.
@adrianodesouza4129
2 жыл бұрын
Popped a pulley yesterday, this video is a lifesaver, not just with the gold mine of information but also the reassurance that I can overcome this injury! Makes me proud to support the channel with my membership! ♥️
@mediapixelfangirl5165
2 жыл бұрын
I’m mad this video didn’t exist 3 years ago when I initially injured my A2. Good thing it’s here now for the A2, A5, FDP injuries 🥴
@GeremiaGerosa
2 жыл бұрын
Amazing content. I was so scared and disoriented at first when this happened to me. I'm so glad I found this!!!
@MrHux3
3 жыл бұрын
I don't understand how a full rupture can heal? The connective tissu will grow up even there is space beetween the two part of the A2 pulley ? Or the A2 pulley is definitely Lost?
@Brave_English
4 ай бұрын
Thanks for the great and very in-depth video! I love your channel. I have one question/ suggestion. Because you address the role of hormones in relation to healing, could you address how the female hormone cycle impact healing? I know that most of your audience is probably men, but there's still many female climbers, and it'd be nice to know which of the scientific studies you cite consider how female bodies work. Considering the way scientific/medical research typically overlooks that our bodies work differently in many ways (beyond just reproduction) I'd like to learn more about how this affects climbing-specific training and injury prevention. From what I've learned, I'm guessing that there are a few weeks when the hormones in female bodies support faster healing, but I'm not sure. Any thoughts? Thanks again for the phenomenal content you consistently put out! :)
@Life4Jump
3 жыл бұрын
Dr.Hooper , I wish i found this video a few months ago when i suffered my first climbing injury . After watching the whole thing and some other videos of you I feel so much wiser and I got so much more understanding of the whole thing . I want to thank you so much for putting tons of work and effort to create high-quality content and generally sharing your knowledge with us !!
@_trismegistus
8 ай бұрын
I had an injury occur about 6 weeks ago which seemed like an A2 ring finger pulley and associated tendon rolling or thunking feeling when flexing the finger. No bowstringing. Doctor suggested rest and anti-inflammatories and mild rehab which has not improved the condition. I found some research showing that an injury can cause the FDS tendon to subluxate off center during flexion because of the movement of the FDP tendon. This would cause the rolling or thunking sensation. Do you have any experience in rehab for something like that?
@savoyclimber2575
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Dr Hooper, This video is very interesting, it helps a lot to understand many things. Thanks ! I have a personal question, after 3 weeks without climbing, I climbed 2 times with one day rest between that 2 sessions, lead climbing, with good warmup I think :). After the second session, the day after, I feel a little bit of pain on the A2 pulleyside (only on one side close to the palm) Then, I did bouldering, I climbed hard (crimps, slopers...) without pain, but when I press my finger I feel a little bit of pain. I did the tests you mentionned and the only pain I feel is when I press on it. What do you think about that ?
@nostodmada
11 ай бұрын
Super helpful! Thanks so much. I popped it yesterday hitting a shifting my weight(swinging) on a 2 finger pocket that my ring finger had no place being in. I think its on the mild side, do you feel pretty confident that weight training(i.e. Overhead Press, Deadlift, other grip oriented lifts are safe.) I assumed Id have to put these exercises on hold for a while.
@simmions1
2 ай бұрын
Awesome video, I was actually researching specialist in my area before I saw this video and you came up. What does it mean if I have no swelling or palpitation pain but have range of motion and tissue load fingers extended pain
@viralvideoguy1988
Жыл бұрын
My pulley injury is about 3 months old already. I didn't know what I had injured at first, so it took time to diagnose. I still have inflammation on the finger, and the finger is now bowstring-ed. Is treatment still possible? I'm seeing a hand therapist next week, so I'll find out anyway, but I was curious what you've seen when treatment is delayed.
@sanderwerelds364
8 ай бұрын
Hiii @hooperbeta, any physical excercises that can be done to prevent pulley injuries besides hangboarding ?
@spasmatrass
2 жыл бұрын
I have a ganglion cyst (feels like a small lump or pebble) on my a2 pulley. Is this common? Could you make a video about it, please? I'm desperate as I'm just about fully healed from a previous finger injury
@benjaminkoch9261
4 ай бұрын
There is still a camp that thinks an pulley grows back together scarred but becomes more flexible and then those who say it's gone is gone and nothing similar comes back. Can some clarity be created?
@Frogandtoad2005
Жыл бұрын
In the testing section I feel almost zero discomfort with the different tests. But when I bend my pinky finger fully and then add pressure to my ring finger I get lots of pain. Does this mean it isn’t a2 then? Someone please help!!
@brianwallace8608
10 ай бұрын
@hoopersbeta what about if we suspect it’s an A1 pulley, would this protocol and info still stand?
@vanillavonchivalry6657
3 жыл бұрын
Keep these videos coming and this channel is going to take off big time.
@gabrielcamacho2862
4 жыл бұрын
This was great information. Keep the good work.
@SirCharcoal
4 жыл бұрын
This is the most enlightening thing I've seen on pulley injuries ever! Thank you so much for doing this. I've had a tender A2 pulley for about 8 months, and it's only gotten better during lockdown because my (board) climbing is much more controlled and volume much lower I've also started stretching my inflexible wrists. Which I imagine is stretching my FDP tendons now I look at your video, and helping massively with blood flow (fingers turn red afterwards) by counteracting my suspected shortened FDP.
@HoopersBeta
4 жыл бұрын
This is awesome! Glad you found it useful. Have you checked out our other video on forearm stretching to make sure you're getting everything covered?
@SirCharcoal
4 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta I'll check it out!
@Glenners
Ай бұрын
just popped my a2 yesterday :( does bad range of motion from swelling count as poor range of motion? It just feels weird and swollen, hurts to touch.
@HoopersBeta
Ай бұрын
Sorry to hear about the injury! Bummer :/ Yes, that does count, but since it just happened yesterday that is an expected response. If you need help with a rehab plan hit me up! (check the website that is, hah)
@dave_vanvliet
3 жыл бұрын
Great video! So many questions I've had were just answered.
@galateaclaymore6164
2 жыл бұрын
I am so grateful for this content but I still have a question. I went to a physician (who specialized in sports medicine) but he didn’t examined detailed as you explained in video. When I told him that I fill a pain in my ring finger and it extends till almost the end of forearm he gave me a just one task - to flex my thumb and there was no pain and on ultrasound there was nothing to see, no rupture. My question: when is A2 pulley injuries (I asume mine is grade I - pulley sprain) fresh could it be that a pain tends to extend to forearm while is finger bending and pulling some objects? I feel that in first week, now it's already the fourth week and I don’t have that feeling anymore but mild pain is still present (around A2 area but even slightly around A1) when I squeeze hard a towel or my hair after washing it or when I exercise a tendon glides - it hurts only when I do first move, but every next time when I repet (making a fist) it’s gone. I decided to wait for another week and than back to easy climbing.
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
The pain extending into your forearm could be related to the FDP or even FDS tendon. It sounds like it was maybe a lower grade strain, as you mentioned. Keep progressing slowly and even watch our video regarding pain and climbing to see if that helps further answer your question!
@DavidMartinBouldering
3 жыл бұрын
The self-assessment part was super helpful. Seems like I have a A2 or A3 strain/partial tear. Thank you so much for this amazing information 🙏
@samuelalmeida995
3 жыл бұрын
awesome content, thanks! Im facing a A2 injury
@Rickshaw_Bohammer
2 жыл бұрын
I loaded my R middle and ring finger too much. A deep cross over to the left landing those two R fingers in an open position gave me a sharp pain (perhaps a mild pop, music was playing loud) and a short one foot fall to the ground on a 45 board. Left me with pain/soreness in the palm below the affected fingers, mostly ring, down to the ulnar attachment to my wrist area. Thanks for the video, as I self diagnosed a mild strain of the FDP!
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Sorry to hear of your injury but happy that this vid was helpful! Hoping you recover well!
@Emil_Ortiz
3 жыл бұрын
For those of us falling in the strain category, is it fair to base your starting point on your level of comfort/discomfort on the farmers crimp? In my case I probably have a really light strain and I can hold a farmers crimp with 15lbs no problem. Would you recommend jumping in to the rehab process as if I were already 2-3 weeks in? (I don’t start to feel pain until it’s closer to body weight)
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
A little delayed on my response, apologies! Yes, that is fair to base it on the level of comfort. That can be a way to assess your current strength/status of your pulley. Especially if you compare it to your uninjured side.
@GranZebru
4 жыл бұрын
Great video as usual! I like how it's structured and both timestamps and the article are really useful. What about using the rice bucket to speed up the healing process?
@HoopersBeta
4 жыл бұрын
Yeah the timestamps are super helpful! Glad you found the video to be useful. Rice bucket in which sense? For active range of motion?
@GranZebru
4 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta Yes exactly, range of motion and improved blood flow. I've seen a lot of videos in which this technique is advised also for strength training. Not sure if it's effective though.
@HoopersBeta
4 жыл бұрын
It can be used as an early intervention as it provides a light amount of resistance, such as moving through water, and it would increased blood flow. But so does just squeezing your hand and opening it :) I don't find it to be as efficient because it's not as portable and easy to use as well. I prefer using puddy or other items you can take with you / do in the car. Part of effective rehab is efficient rehab. If it is a task to do it, people are less likely to do so. In summary, yeah you can totally utilize it but it's not my preferred method. *edit* sorry for the late response, sometimes once I have responded to the initial question it doesn't give me a notification the same way for follow ups.
@GranZebru
4 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the explanation!
@Brave_English
4 ай бұрын
@@HoopersBeta Mixing and kneading bread dough could be another great method 😄 I'm an avid bread baker, and, now that I think of it, it's probably supported my overall hand and tendon health. I'll admit I'm at a point that I should be more active in training my tendon strength, but until now, I hadn't had any finger injuries over 9 years of recreational climbing!
@DorangeArnaud
3 жыл бұрын
I clearly needed that video 9months ago, complete and clear informations !
@arthursantos9702
3 жыл бұрын
Hey hooper's beta, I want to say that you made an awesome video, thank you so much for this. I want to know what you think about hangboarding and what protocol would you use for returning gradually? And I want to know also what is the puddy crimp, didn't understand how to do it.
@arthursantos9702
3 жыл бұрын
I don't know what puddy means. =S
@ethanmahc
4 жыл бұрын
Awesome. Will be recommending this video to my friends.
@dundeedolphin
10 ай бұрын
`This video is sponsored by "there's a lot more to it than that".
@lucafrascino3683
4 жыл бұрын
MAAAN !! I was searching about this injury like 2 weeks ago !! I searched a lot about this .... I am feeling a minor pain exactly at the A2 pulley location after grabbing something with too much strenght ! It has NO swelling, and I think I am probably at the begining of a partial rupture process ... I'`m doing ice and I'm also using a tape to avoid the flexion of the finger . It is really frustrating having this injury because it seems it never recovers (but I think I will get better at some point).. And the last time I climbed was 3 months ago .... The problem is that these structures (pulleys, ligaments) dont have a good regeneration capacity, which is the BIG problem and also the main reason why you have to be so careful when treating this type of lesion . if you suspect that you have a pulley injury like this, REST ! Don't put force at the finger !! It's like I always say , ''it takes 1 second to have an injury, and 1 year to recover from it'. Thanks for the videos bro ! You're a great professional !
@HoopersBeta
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for supporting the channel and I'm glad you enjoy the videos! Yes, connective tissue is waayyy slower to recover. Have patience is key! But key into the "retraining" section so you can see how safely loading the tissue can speed if your healing time! Cheers
@JTurfie
4 жыл бұрын
Wow, this is amazing content! Keep up the good work!
@tylerheitmann1758
3 жыл бұрын
best summary i've seen, answered all of my questions
@alexrixey975
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this video. Can I assume all of this applies to an A4 injury as well? Are there any notable differences in recovery / rehab?
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Some of the specifics may be more applicable to the A2 like the amount of force generated at each site but the general rehab process and what not can definitely be applied. Good question!
@_trismegistus
9 ай бұрын
I'm confused around 26:45 - you say to start using palm crimps to recreate the force you were injured with, then move on to putty crimps, then on to LIGHT farmer crimps. Why do you say to recreate the force of the injury with stage 1 (palm crimps) before drastically reducing the load with 5lb+ farmer crimps? Shouldn't it be the other way around?
@_trismegistus
8 ай бұрын
Any info about this? If you're recreating the force you got injured with on your palm, that will certainly be more than 5 lbs.
@huntrayisabeast16
2 ай бұрын
Have you seen many people who had only an A3 injury? I cant tell if it is A3 or collateral...the pip joint as a whole is tender af to palpation both on the sides and under the skin crease and swollen, some swelling closer to A2, but literally zero A2 pain Most painful at full flexion or extension, an especially when loading a full open hand. Half cri.p feels like there isnt even an injury.....
@HoopersBeta
Ай бұрын
Not a ton but yes an isolated A3 injury is possible. It could also be joint synovitis/capsulitis if the entire joint is painful (including the dorsal or backside of the joint)
@Scbaman120
5 ай бұрын
Got back from my MRI results this morning. Talking with a friend about my partial A2 tear they sent me this video. I have now been to the doctor 3 times and received little to no information compared to this video. Honestly, the doctor should’ve just had me watch this video.
@HoopersBeta
5 ай бұрын
Sorry to hear about your injury and experiences but I am happy that this video has helped!
@alessandrovillanueva5498
4 жыл бұрын
Hey! I think your videos are great and they helped me a lot to avoid injuries and to treat elbow and wrist pain. There are many videos on youtube about that but it s quiete impossible to find videos about knie injuries related to climb. I started to have some pain in my knie when i heel hook it s interesting because i can drop knie easily with no pain but by heel hook it s quiete painful. Maybe could you do a video about that? The only interesting video that i ve found on youtube is called "patterns of knie injuring among bouldering and rock climbing". It would be great if you could talk about that and how to avoid it. Cheers
@HoopersBeta
4 жыл бұрын
Knee related pain as a general inquiry is tough because the location of the pain matters, as does the activity. As you mention heel hooks vs drop knee. Two very different activities which don't have a direct correlation to each other. What you are describing, though, would likely be an issue we are just about to cover! We are making a super sweet video on hamstrings and heel hooking so be on the lookout for that soon!
@alessandrovillanueva5498
4 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta can t wait to see it ^^
@seeingshapesfilms2706
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you! This was incredibly useful and well made 👊🏼🤙🏼
@kevinwong5053
4 жыл бұрын
Which finger is most likely to get a A2 pulley tear in climbing?
@HoopersBeta
4 жыл бұрын
Definitely the ring and middle fingers. The ring we know because studies have shown it is consistently weaker than the middle and index fingers and the middle is next most commonly injured because of it's positioning it takes a large percentage of the force during crimp holds.
@killyourself2times
2 жыл бұрын
Im shocked about the content of this video! This is freaking amazing man! THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS EFFORT :D
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Our pleasure! Thanks for the support.
@jasonalbino5645
4 ай бұрын
Just a fantastic video - thank you so much for the thoughtful breakdown!
@HoopersBeta
4 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for sharing the kind words.
@The_Ballo
8 ай бұрын
Any info for A1 pulley injuries?
@andresjacobsen4551
4 ай бұрын
Good information, but am I the only that gets super stressed by the way this guy speaks?..
@HoopersBeta
4 ай бұрын
Bummer! Glad you like the information but sorry the delivery doesn't sit well with you!
@OutdoorAnthony
Жыл бұрын
so I am a recurring athlete on American ninja Warrior, and I just had a big pulley strain about a month and a half before competing. I’m gonna try all these exercises and see if it will heal in time. Granted, literally everything on the show is going to be a big dynamic movement. Luckily, they stray away from crimps though
@fabianodedo
4 жыл бұрын
Amazing content! Thank you!
@erenozturk586
2 жыл бұрын
The area around my A3 pulley is quite tender, especially towards the base of the finger, but I've got no pain during movement or loading, any idea what this may be?
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Likely A2 at the distal edge but without more evaluation (just going off of the location) it's hard to say. Could be an angry nerve as well if all loading is fine.
@robernst5515
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for the incredible video! I injured my finger about 6 weeks ago and this has been crucial in shaping my rehab plan. I’m near certain it’s just an A2 strain, but I scheduled an appointment with a “hand specialist” to confirm. She agrees that it’s likely a strain, but recommended a cortisone shot to facilitate healing. Any thoughts on the use of cortisone injections on pulley strains? Thanks!
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Glad you found this video to be helpful! Though, if it's just a strain and it hasn't been a chronic / long term issue an injection would not be an early treatment option I would choose.
@robernst5515
2 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta Thanks for replying! This was a "hand specialist" through Kaiser, and she kept treating it like it was similar to trigger finger so I was skeptical. I wanna do the right thing and get examined by medical professionals, but it's hard when they have very little experience with common climbing injuries!
@fabiopalma4429
Жыл бұрын
This is exactly what I was needing! Can't remember the last time I took so many printscreens of a video 😅
@HoopersBeta
Жыл бұрын
haha :) happy that you found it to be helpful!
@ianmcdonald202
7 ай бұрын
How am I supposed to do arm-based workouts with a pulley injury?
@HoopersBeta
7 ай бұрын
Depending on the severity some exercises actually place the weight/dumbbell in a position of support on the pulley. But, you can also protect the pulley with a protective splint, tape, or even simply modify the exercises by creating less dependence on grip. Many modifications are available :)
@MP-bx3uj
5 ай бұрын
Ouch, my finger hurts…..better go see what Dr Hooper has to say about it ❤
@HoopersBeta
5 ай бұрын
Happy to help!
@Randomize12345666
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for the video, very thorough and explains a lot . Thankfully I'm probably only at the pulley strain stage. and I definitely wrote down alot watching this
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Good! Glad it was helpful :)
@Randomize12345666
3 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta omg are you kidding, I found out your channel just yesterday and I have no idea how I've been climbing for 6 years without knowing it before, so underrated, entertaining and knowledgeful. Thank you so much for the content
@Douglas6646
4 жыл бұрын
Awesome informative video, thanks for that. I've had many pulley strains over the years in different fingers, and for my last one I discovered Esther Smith's protocol, it is very similar to yours but with one difference I thought quite important. She advises to do 2 finger pocket weighted hangs (after range of motion is recovered of course) WITH some mild pain during the hangs (just a few single rep sets of 10s with 2-3min rest between reps), but that the pain should go away within 10 minutes of ending the session. I would like to know your thoughts on this? Does pain equal harm? Would straining the pulley with a bit of discomfort heal it better, faster? Do you think it's less safe? Thanks!
@HoopersBeta
4 жыл бұрын
Good question. There is such a thing as proper pain, where you are safely loading the tissue but causing mild discomfort. This mild discomfort can trigger more adaptations. The difference I usually promote is shorter pain periods and I'm not entirely sure why 2 finger weighted hangs. That will work your FDP and indirectly your A2 a little but not recreating the strain/stress you put in it and is a challenging move for most people, especially that early on. That's why I promote the retraining with farmer crimps first before going back to climbing so you properly load the tissue in a similar scenario but safely.
@Douglas6646
4 жыл бұрын
Great, thanks man! I think the point of 2 finger open hangs (you can do them with removed weight as well, depends on your finger strength) is that it targets more specifically the injured finger. I've found that if I start hanging on a 20mm edge with all fingers it's hard to feel whether I'm loading the injured finger enough or not. However I find it a bit weird too, especially since open-hand grips don't affect the pulleys in the same way as half or full crimping, as you said!
@yflee6038
Жыл бұрын
The quality of this video is incredible, although is a bit long :p
@HoopersBeta
Жыл бұрын
Hah that's fair. It's in depth though at least :)
@79istp
Жыл бұрын
Best info I've seen so far, big thanks! My predicament though, my symptoms seems mild except I did get a big pop. Does this sometimes happen with just a strain or partial tear, or only a full rupture (assuming it's not just cavitation)? Thanks!
@nmwag88
Жыл бұрын
Hi! I found this incredibly useful when I ruptured a pulley last year... Would you alter the rehab period for a pinky pulley injury? I've somehow strained my A4 pinky pulley and am hugely tempted to just keep climbing open handed/ 3 fingered/ where there is no pain. Ironically, pain only occurs on larger holds/ jugs that are grabbed. Crimps, particularly on small holds, feel fine (perhaps because the pinky is too short to engage?).
@jeffmiller8462
Жыл бұрын
This video has a lot of information, thank you! I had some questions about A1 pulley injuries on your thumb. I have one, and I think it might be a full rupture. I'm not sure (I think I can feel and move the tendon where the pulley should be). Would you recommend the same timelines and training routines as the A2 finger pulley rupture? Would you think I would be safe to continue to with large muscle group exercises? Is there any taping that could help reduce the stress on the A1 pulley in the thumb? In your video on trigger finger, you showed a brace for A1 finger pulleys. Would something like that work for this injury? I'm also wondering if it would be ill advised to climb with such a brace. Haha. Or, hangboard with a brace on the A1 thumb pulley. I don't know if it would put stress to the injured area. Thanks so much!
@gdm1990
Жыл бұрын
Hi! First, I would like to thank you for the effort placed doing this very useful video. I got injured while crimping and after us it turns out I partially ruptured my A2 pulley. The thing is that at the moment I got injured i clearly heard two strong pops, not just one (I even made a video which sound confirmed). Is that possible that the A2 pulley got partially ruptured in "two steps"? I am asking this because the professional who made the us was not specialised in climbing injuries and maybe got a wrong information. Thank you again. Giancarlo
@Kantenschiesser
2 жыл бұрын
Hey i got a question if you dont mind. In September 2021 i parially teared a tendon my finger. So i stopped working out, as my doctor suggested. But as the pain didnt really go away, and i stumbled accross your videos, i started climbing again about 3 weeks ago. So my question is: Whenever i do not work out. My finger hurts when i stress it. But when i do my climbing session and i warm up properly it doesnt hurt at all (except when i provoke it by doing a fist for instance). So is it okay that i keep climbing? I climb the same route difficulty as before my injury. Or should i take it easy?
@grshindig
2 жыл бұрын
Hello! I think you should included the correct way to immobilize the finger...angle etc...
@bowen139
Жыл бұрын
Hey, I just had a full rupture of my a2 pully on my left ring finger. Can I still train the middle and index finger on that hand (e.g. 2 finger pocket with a weighted tension block) without aggrevating or hampering the healing process of the injured finger?
@m.droberts5206
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you. A no bullshit explanation that I wish I'd received at hospital, ( a2 rupture lifting log burning stove with finger tips) Answered all the questions I didn't know needed asking. Thank you.
@REstrACIA
Жыл бұрын
Extremely helpful information. I saw an Orthopedic Hand Surgeon who is also a Professor of Orthopedic Surgery. They were genuinely impressed with how accurately I understood the injury and the healing process.
@nathanrice7352
Жыл бұрын
That paint job on your hand/wrist would make for a killer tattoo.
@HoopersBeta
Жыл бұрын
Haha that would be pretty cool!
@fernandodiaz6253
3 жыл бұрын
For an A2 full broken pullley(the others pulleys are ok) medical surgery is recommended? Or it's possible to recover without having this pulley, thanks in advance
@alecslede6605
Жыл бұрын
Hey Dr. Hooper! Does this video, and specifically the healing timeline, apply to an A4 pulley strain? I believe that’s what I currently have
@tomhatcher1066
5 ай бұрын
is there any difference in treatment and rehab for an A4 pulley?
@HoopersBeta
5 ай бұрын
There are subtle differences but can be treated similarly especially if the injury occurred while in a crimp position.
@ryanjamestillema
3 жыл бұрын
Hey Hoop. I was pulling on a pocket yesterday and felt a pop (not an audible pop). I now have a 3/10 pain on my palm in line with the 3rd finger when making a fist and a 4/10 pain and stiffness in the palm side of my forearm when making a fist. Does this seem like pully strain? or just a general strain of the FDP? P.S. your'e doing gods work out here
@dijaomi1
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Jason, I had a knee injury about 3 years where I tore my ACL, grade 2 MCL sprain, microtrabecular fractures, fractures in my medial and femoral condyles, and complex displaced tears in both menisci. I had a lot of education on knee injuries over the time of my rehab, but I'd love to learn more. I still have severely limited range of motion, regular mild pain and obviously a lot of fear with falling and hard yarding on it. Would LOVE to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
@natehall8837
2 жыл бұрын
PT here who is just getting into climbing, coming from the jiujitsu world. Can already tell that I'm gonna love your videos!
@christinastracquodaine3057
3 жыл бұрын
We need more Jason Hoopers in the world. But one thing I'm not super clear on -- how quickly do I progress weight on farmer crimps for rehabbing. I'm in my 4th week of rehab, and I'm not sure how fast I can increase the weight on the crimps.
@fhcwcsy
Жыл бұрын
I have a question: according to the figure at 1:54 , it seems that it is the A3 pulley, instead of A2, which will experience the highest force (since the angle is so large). But this contradicts to what is told in the video. What am I missing?
@SNUYounghoon
Жыл бұрын
can I ask a question about retraining? When I do the first stage of retraining (like palm crimp), taping or wearing pulley splint during the training is more beneficial to rehab? or should i take off the splint when retraining?
@Claudia-yh8kt
Жыл бұрын
What would you say the number of sets and reps are on the retraining with palm crimps, putty crimps and farmer crimps?
@joji_okami
Жыл бұрын
I laughed hard at the camera panning away when you started talking about diet and sleep haha
@HoopersBeta
Жыл бұрын
Two very volatile factors in many peoples lives :) hah
@jaimenavarrogutierrez6337
2 жыл бұрын
I injured the A2 on my ring finger and after 6 weeks my finger gets very stiff at night and it makes a trigger motion which causes some pain. It only happens at night tho. Any ideas on what it could be?
@yevhenii.khlopin
Жыл бұрын
And two yers later after the last finger injury I'm back to this video again. Thank you guys for this priceless information ❤
@SzBeni
3 жыл бұрын
Hi! Nice, comprehensive video! Do you have any I information about flexor tendon tears? I had an ultrasound recently and it looks like I have a tear (about 50%) on my ring fingers flexor tendon in the palm area. I am still waiting for my appointment with my hand surgeon to confirm the results, but in the meantime I am finding quite a few information about tendon tears.. most cases what I found is caused by an external objects (glass, knife cuts) or the tendon tears at the boney attachment points, but my case seems a bit odd. Could you point me somewhere where I could find more info? Thanks, Benjamin
@bartd8516
2 жыл бұрын
Bouldering is becoming very popular especially here in The Netherlands. This video is super helpfull, thanks! From my unfortunate experience after full pulley A2 rupture: don’t (H) tape fingers that are not injured in order to prevent pulley injury! Ive been H taping my weak right middle finger, actually keeping it weak and had a pulley sprain on that taped finger. Have fun bouldering guys and be safe!
@Rotempunkt
3 жыл бұрын
Hey there! Great video. Perhaps most comprehensive one that exists to date! Great job. I wanted to ask a question though, i have partially teared my A2 Pulley two days ago. The area is still sore when applying pressure however the protocol recommends IASTM or STM from the first week. Applying pressure by massaging is ok but not sure if i should try it yet with a butter knife or not. And also would one directly go to town on the a2 area or focus on the hand and the forearm like on the IASTM Video you guys made? Also what do you think about collagen supplementing? Thanks a lot! Appreciate your channel!
@isaacg3175
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the informative video. My left ring finger had it bad on a pocket hold going left on an overhang. I wasn't warmed up and "pop." I couldn't climb without some kind of pain, but not enough to stop me from going. I did some finger exercise, and has helped me recover.
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