No one was able to make a full ascent using the compressor route and as someone said, it was blinding people to the possibilities of the actual rock. Especially since the dude who put them in probably lied about summating and put the bolts in without any authority… I don’t know. It seems better to take them out. And if it was that easy to take them out, someone could have actually slipped using the bolts. Maybe I’m just too new to climbing but I don’t see what they did as incredibly bad…
@Gixsir
11 ай бұрын
I don’t climb or know anything at all but who cares what does it matter? I don’t get why it’s a big deal to anyone other than authorities. Seems like a bunch of Karen’s trying to tell everyone else what to do. It always looked like a chill community from the outside but I see stuff like this and realize everyone everywhere is crazy in their own way for something
@sekwar
11 ай бұрын
Wow, Alex is low-key pretty snarky.
@Gixsir
11 ай бұрын
I’ve always found him to be that way if the convo isn’t going his way he gets real….. odd
@lucasgibbs5459
11 ай бұрын
Totally, but maybe agree with him on this one. The other guy is surprised that locals were pissed off, it's hard not to laugh at that.
@thiagowaldhelm
11 ай бұрын
The meat of the matter is not even "climbing ethics". It's that once again, Europeans/Americans (or even Canadians) went somewhere in South America and decided to do something that would impact the local community without even thinking that would be a possibility. And in this case, specially with the locals having expressed their preference AGAINST taking the bolts, its even more infuriating. People in El Chalten were absolutely within their right to be pissed off.
@RJBond121
11 ай бұрын
So why was it fine for a european to come in and install the bolts to begin with?
@thiagowaldhelm
11 ай бұрын
@RJBond121 it absolutely wasn't, that's why I said "once again". Can't try to fix a mistake with another.
@andyclarke2969
11 ай бұрын
Well as an idealist these guys did the right thing, it was well overdue, they just happened to be in the right place at the right time, this Via Ferrata had no real place in the realm of Alpinism on such an iconic mountain, Cerro Torre is the ultimate challenge for climbers simply operating at their best, Messner was right, murder of the impossible is so applicable to the Compressor route at the time.
@andyclarke2969
11 ай бұрын
A rusting relic to an age where summiting and planting a flag for national pride by any means was the norm. luckily times have changed, would be interesting to hear what affect the chopping of the bolts had on the local community, less climbers?
@Gixsir
11 ай бұрын
As someone who has no idea what’s happening I don’t get why anyone cares just don’t use the bolts or look at them. Or is it that less experienced people can now go up the route and they don’t deserve it haven’t earned it? It’s so weird
@andyclarke2969
11 ай бұрын
There seems to be some confusion from newer climbers regarding these bolts, the compressor route was not a free sport climb, merely a bolted ladder used for direct aid.
@Knoed
11 ай бұрын
@@andyclarke2969they were being used for guiding. Other than that, locals reaction was more towards the idea of some foreigners coming and doing whatever they want to "our" patrinomy. Which, to be fair, has some historic roots.
@themeatpopsicle
11 ай бұрын
I really don't get chopping bolts, you can always do the climb in your preferred style. I can see the argument if they were put in against the local rules or ethics, but otherwise leave them in
@craigbritton1089
11 ай бұрын
When they are put where a route has always used good gear ; when they are added to an five foot tall boulder ; when there was gear at the top; and now the bolts allow taggers to paint up the entire cliff face; when it has always been a highball or TR; and now the crux is bad bolt clips; that leads to chipping clipping holds. Etc.
@sergiosalazar9142
11 ай бұрын
They didn’t chop ALL the bolts, right? Just the ones THEY didn’t need. Pretty convenient for them. They didn’t do a proper free ascent. They just aided it less. For the same reason you don’t add bolts to an existing route (like in the UK) even if it’s for safety, you shouldn’t remove bolts for “style”. Particularly on such a classic, historic route, I always thought there was a value on the vision of those that came first. What ethics are they speaking of? I think they are confusing they’re own selfish and person ambitions for morals. The fact that he says he “regrets it, but would do it again” shows you how little he cares, and how hollow his words are.
@Gixsir
11 ай бұрын
So his mindset was if you can’t do it without bolts go home and their the authority of it? I don’t climb or know anything just happened on this but it seems like a childish mindset, and gatekeeper / bolt keeper mentality
@ClimbingGold
11 ай бұрын
His and Kennedy's mindsets were shaped by the historical context of the compressor route which is not well outlined, or outlined at all for that matter, in this cut. Our latest season, "The Greatest Lie" dives deep into this history and the wild stories surrounding Cerro Torre. So if you're looking for more depth on this, check it out wherever you get podcasts
@kevinmcgowan9250
5 ай бұрын
@@ClimbingGold that was part of it, but Hayden explicitly said multiple times on his Enormocast appearance afterwards that it was also about gatekeeping. I don't care either way - just pointing it out.
@thegreattuna7187
11 ай бұрын
So, as a noob, I'm guessing that they removed anchors from a climb. Maybe the premise could have been better framed. As an aged adult, we all have done something without considering the wider impact of our actions.
@ripclaw238
11 ай бұрын
The framing is in the description, but I agree that it could have been in the video itself.
@johnnycigar3240
11 ай бұрын
They removed aid bolt ladders installed through awful means by a liar, they left the descent anchors.
@davejob630
11 ай бұрын
Bolts are pollution/vandalism and the current trend of sport climbing and bolting everywhere will be condemned by history.
@lucasgibbs5459
11 ай бұрын
Sure, but I still think that the local community should be taken into account whenever going somewhere and doing something like that. This sort of stuff gives 'Gringos' a bad reputation and makes the local people feel disrespected. That's not cool.
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