Corrections/Updates: 3:10 - The only FIXED piece of 2020 is the top bar. The X gantry bar is also a 2020 extrusion. 4:06 - "Eccentric" nuts, not "Concentric" nuts (Thanks to Ben E. Brady for the correction.) 7:00 - The processor on the main board is a ATMega2560. 8:48 - If you build the source on your own, I had to reverse the direction of the extruder stepper. 13:59 - I'm not 100% sure if you could warranty the power supply separately through the manufacturer. It would be easy to replace though. 26:25 - The thick sheet metal is not steel, it's aluminum. The thin sheet metal around the coolers is steel. (Thanks to Nuno Pereira for the correction.)
@WaffleStaffel
Жыл бұрын
Good review, thanks. I know it's dated, but I just got my first printer, an LK5 pro, and it's basically the same. It has the same LGT 1.0 board and same display. A lot of reviewers praise the display, but it appears to lack a lot of the granular control that a plain text display offers. My main issue with it, and I don't know if it's due to the display or the board, is that it doesn't always pay attention to the temperature settings. Sometimes it'll just sit there with no temperature set until I manually set the bed and nozzle temps. It doesn't always _not_ print without a temp set, as today when switching jobs it began trying to print while it was still heating and was only at 175, resulting in underextrusion for several seconds. Have you ever noticed any odd behavior?
@kerseyfabs
Жыл бұрын
It's been a long time since I messed with that printer but I don't remember acting like that. Check for a newer firmware.
@WaffleStaffel
Жыл бұрын
@@kerseyfabs Thanks
@RazorSkinned86
5 жыл бұрын
Sweet, they don't just use marlin but it's completely open source in that they include the marlin config files. I hate that companies like Geeetech only include the complied binary of marlin but not the important uncompiled stuff like the config files. Btw, there are some LCD touch screen controllers you can find for printers that have firmware that can be customized to give you whatever functions you want. Another great option is to just make your own (best solution) but waking a raspberry pi with a 7-inch pi compatible lcd panel, load Octoprint on it and the touch screen UI plugin. The best part about the octoprint/lcd/pi solution is that you can hook the pi up to the printers control board directly with the raspberry pi's uart gpio pins which are actually a built in serial port. This is the same way that these LCD touch screens most printers use to connect to the printers controller and unlike USB the direct uart serial connection doesn't have the issues with drop out and errors.
@dmerriman
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the review, a couple of issues I've ran in to with this printer is if a USB cable is plugged in and the printer is off, turning on the printer will cause the screen to get stuck in a boot loop, power it off again, removing the USB cable, turning it back on until the screen loads and plug in the USB cable back in will resume normal operation. Also with the USB cable plugged in and the printer off, the BL touch continues to get power plugged in to the dedicated 5V slot on the mainboard. Last issue, and I believe this is due to no native profiles in slicers (since the printer is new the market) no printing data is pushed over USB when printing, eta on print time, percentage done, etc.. As well as the printer data printing off a SD card as the slicer software is responsible for calculating that when slicing, a 2 hour print reports it took 13 minutes on the display. Regarding your print quality issues, the slicer profile you should use out of the box is Creality Ender 3 as it's a native Marlin printer, using U20 or U30 will cause issues because that mainboard does not use open source marlin but uses a proprietary version that's closed source and will process the slicing differently. U20 Pro printer profile (edit the bed size) will be the one to use if it's supplied in the slicer or as mentioned the Ender 3. All in all, great prints with little modding, I added a Capricorn tube and BL touch and that's it, gets you excellent prints. *Edited* Regarding the fan that's mounted on the mainboard housing, for whatever reason, I assume cost, Alfawise uses 12v fans on a 24v machine. Repleacing the fans with 24v version significantly quiets the machine.
@kerseyfabs
5 жыл бұрын
They didn't isolate the USB power from the power supply power. This is a common issue on low cost boards. Creality boards work with same way. This is what's causing the issue on both the BLtouch and display. When printing from USB, the firmware has no idea where it is in the print because it doesn't have access to the complete file. Only the source does (Raspberry Pi or PC). So this is normal. I'll try a different profile and see if my print quality improves. I've already replaced my fan and it is a lot quieter. Thanks for all the feedback!
@dmerriman
5 жыл бұрын
@@kerseyfabs Thank you for taking the time to reply.. This is my first marlin based printer, never experienced any of this issues with a maker-bot replicator dual clone running sailfish. USB printing from the MB Clone displayed all of the stats on the printer as well as the slicer. Appreciate all the hard work that went in to this review, you got a sub out it, look forward to more of your videos.
@simpsot
5 жыл бұрын
Donald how did you implement the BLTouch for the u30 pro, were you able to modify the touch to show new functionality?
@dmerriman
5 жыл бұрын
@@kerseyfabs Looks like Alfawise have released the firmware for the touchscreen, can be downloaded from the Alfawise dropbox link. www.dropbox.com/sh/eudw1fryz3krrel/AAAOKkJxQC1sS6BtmP7hVLV1a?dl=0
@dmerriman
5 жыл бұрын
@@simpsot I installed it prior to Alfawise releasing the firmware for the touch screen. I will dig more into that now that it's released. At this point there is no onscreen functionality. So the general settings was managed via marlin firmware and G Code commands in the start up script in the slicer. If you need assistance with the installing it, I can provide information to help you get that implemented.
@BV3D
5 жыл бұрын
Hi Kris! Thanks for having me on the build stream, and thanks for the shout-out! Also: Best (unintentional?) pun at 28:03 "I put the mirror on, and haven't looked back" :D
@kerseyfabs
5 жыл бұрын
We'll do a stream again some time! The dad pun was totally unintentional! Dad points!
@BV3D
5 жыл бұрын
@@kerseyfabs That would be fun. 😉
@matteorosa2641
4 жыл бұрын
Hi, I'm planning to buy a 3D printer (I'm undecided between the Alfawise U30 Pro and the Flying Bear Ghost 4S) and I saw a lot of reviews on youtube, but yours is the most completed and detailed one! You did a very good job, thank you!
@kerseyfabs
4 жыл бұрын
I really appreciate that. Thanks for watching!
@avejst
5 жыл бұрын
Printer looking good Thanks for your great review Thanks for sharing 👍😀
@luke752010
4 жыл бұрын
My compliments for this great review :-) Which is the different between Cura and Fusion 360 about 3D printing ?
@kerseyfabs
4 жыл бұрын
Fusion360 is CAD software that you use to design 3D models for printing. It can export to STL files which your slicer can read. Cura is the slicer. It takes a 3D model and prepares it for printing by slicing into layers that the printer can print. The output is a G-code file.
@justthompson
5 жыл бұрын
Hello @Kersey Fabrications Great review of the printer, I was eagerly awaiting your video to post. I received my U30 pro last week, and so far I am pleased with it. It is my first 3D printer, and thanks to your livestream, assembly was a breeze, even for a newbie. I have a question for you, where do you get the mirrors for your build surface? I have similar issues with the stock build surface. Difficulty removing prints, and not being flat. I have a dip in the middle as well. Secondly, can you link the blue cooling shroud you printed? Best Regards, JT
@kerseyfabs
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful. My mirror was custom cut from Lowe's (235mm x 235mm). The fan shroud link is in the video description. I think it's the first one. 😁
@Labyrnthdom
4 жыл бұрын
So do you have a link to the nozzle you used on this printer? Also how thick is the mirror you used?
@SimoneTavera
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the review! It would be great to have a quick guide on how to update the firmware on the U30 pro. I am experiencing the elephant foot issue probably due to overextrusion and I would like to know if reflashing might fix it. I downloaded the arduino suite but once I try to compile I face several errors. Sadly even if the printer is good, it's really hard to find people using it (and so guides) mostly because the U30 is far more common as Ender3 clone and none would buy the pro for the upgrades included
@kerseyfabs
5 жыл бұрын
I'll see what I can do. I have quite the back-log of videos at the moment but I'd love to do a few more on the Alfawise.
@boguslav9502
11 ай бұрын
Hello, I need to figure out what kind of hotend and heat sink is in this printer. I ordered a standard Mk8 hotend and it is just too short.
@dougw9224
4 жыл бұрын
Hi, I like this printer for the heavier metal used as well as the large screen. I was wondering if you knew if the the screen let you calibrate the “E-steps” and such? I was also wondering about future upgrades like changing the extruder as well hot end. What about adding an auto bed lever (bltouch)? Will it except one do you know. Thanks
@laithorabi9571
4 жыл бұрын
would you recommend alfawise U30 over an ender 5?
@kerseyfabs
4 жыл бұрын
This is the second question I've gotten about the U30 Pro lately and I so I pulled out the printer again (which I had been meaning to do) and took a look at a few things. I still had one or two nagging issues that bothered me about the printer so I was determined to figure out why it was having a couple of problems. Thanks to my work on the nozzle video, I learned that you shouldn't stick a RepRap nozzle on a MK8 hotend! So with that (and a silicone sock) everything is printing beautifully now. So, while I don't have an Ender 3 and can't speak from first-hand knowledge, yes, I really do think the U30 Pro is a better printer than the Ender 3. Be sure to get the Pro though. It's well worth the money over the original. Do the following upgrades: - Print a new part cooler (as shown in the video). - Upgrade the nozzle to a proper MK8 nozzle. - Add a silicone sock (similar to the ones on Creality printers). - Replace the build plate with glass or something else you trust. I really hope this helps!
@laithorabi9571
4 жыл бұрын
@@kerseyfabs i was asking about the u30 pro and ender 5 ^__^'
@kerseyfabs
4 жыл бұрын
@@laithorabi9571 Oh! Sorry, it would help if I read a bit closer. 😅 You're talking about two printers in different price ranges. For the price and the features, the U30 Pro is a great printer. It requires more time and effort to assemble than the Ender 5 but works great once you have it put together. Without making a comment that's too long and drawn out, I would say that if you want to print smaller parts and this is just a fun hobby printer, the U30 Pro makes more sense. If you think this may become more of something you really are going to get into and invest a lot of time in, the Ender 5 series is a better choice. In the long run print quality will be better and the Ender 5 has a lot more expandability and upgrade options.
@laithorabi9571
4 жыл бұрын
@@kerseyfabs Thank you! I think i'm settled for the Ender 5 then. I promise for your help I'll follow the live you did and all the upgrades ;)
@gadzel
3 жыл бұрын
I just recently bought a U30 Pro and works ok, then flashed with Marlin 1.8. Now the touchscreen is not responding. Screen icon appears when powered up but wont respond how hard I press. Or do you know how to recalibrate the touchscreen? I need help as I am stuck on this issue. Thank you.
@kerseyfabs
3 жыл бұрын
Where did you get the 1.8 update? Is it specifically for that printer?
@gadzel
3 жыл бұрын
@@kerseyfabs I previously had and used it on my Anet A8 few years back. I downloaded the 1.1.9 mother board firmware thru the link from gearbest. But when I open the marlin.ino, it automatically appears as 1.8.5.
@gadzel
3 жыл бұрын
My mistake.... it does says 1.1.9 and my arduino is 1.8. But how can I fix the screen. After booting up, the screen display is normal, but clicking the screen does not respond.
@BenEBrady
5 жыл бұрын
Eccentric nuts... Eccentric nuts.
@kerseyfabs
5 жыл бұрын
Ha! Thanks for that correction! I won't make that mistake again.
@BenEBrady
5 жыл бұрын
@@kerseyfabs well, I just wanted to preserve your image of being knowledgeable about 3D Printing
@kerseyfabs
5 жыл бұрын
I appreciate that. I am definitely not perfect though and until 3d printing, I hadn't used these. 😅
@kerseyfabs
5 жыл бұрын
Added to pinned post as a correction.
@nunopereira6092
5 жыл бұрын
"Thicker steel" ? That's aluminum...
@kerseyfabs
5 жыл бұрын
You're absolutely right! Since it was painted instead of anodized, I assumed incorrectly. I tested it with a magnet this time and found that the thick red pieces are aluminum and the thin piece around the coolers is steel. Thanks! Added to pinned post as a correction.
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