Did everything you did and worked great! I love your descriptive videos. You dont miss a single step! Thank you
@khmerohio
6 ай бұрын
Thank you!!!!
@sullivanjpaul1
Жыл бұрын
Listen, this is pretty common method to install car audio and a lot of car audio shops do it this way….. BUT, if your doing your own, don’t use T-Taps, on a 5th gen Camaro in particular ground your amps inline with what looks like the unibody rail. You’ll see it, and if you don’t look where your battery is grounded to the car and run an imaginary line towards the front of the car and ground your amps there. Grab an ohm meter and measure resistance between where you grounded your amp and negative battery terminal. If you did it right, it will have 0 resistance and I’m sorry, but if someone says that’s not possible, RUN!!!! Back to T-taps, they are junk and on top your adding a subwoofer less than 2’ from them and inches away from 6x9’s. Those T-taps will vibrate apart or lose contact with parent wire. Look up how to solder if you don’t know how, it’s very easy, grab some decent shrink wrap tubing with glue inside them and solder ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS!!! Don’t use self tappers to ground your wires. Use an existing threaded hole from factory ( big 18mm threaded factory holes that hold rear seat belt connectors comes to mind. They thread right into what looks like a frame rail on rear half of uni-body, in line with battery ground location. And you can use 2’ of ground cable if you like, but if you running high end shit above 2500-8000 watts, make that ground wire as short as possible AND ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOUR GROUND WIRE IS AS BIG OR BIGGER THAN YOUR POWER WIRE. Giant power wire with any ol ground wire that’s half the size doesn’t mean more power to amp, more like bye bye amp, smoke ya later. Never leave an amp in-secured to move around while driving no matter how long or how temporary. When connecting your power wire to battery or any connection honestly, don’t cut your round end to make it a fork, either take the extra 5 seconds to remove nut completely to connect your round end and replace washer and nut after, or use a different end!! If you doing a high end, high power set up, grab yourself some 8% silver solder from plumbing supply, a torch that uses the small map gas or propane gas bottles, heat your copper fitting, remove heat, put stripped end of wire inside your fitting, push 8% silver solder inside fitting with wire end in it. If you heated it up enough your wire end will heat up enough after it touches fitting and solder will instantly liquify and solder wire end to your fitting filling voids with solder and at the end you have a damn good connection that will last probably longer than you with excellent continuity!! Crimping is ok for some I guess, just not me!! 5th gen Camaros since that’s what this guy is working on, pull my link out from dash and find all grounds. (If memory is right, the culprit is actually a white wire ground) whatever color they are, find the grounds, cut and if needed solder an extension to them with same quality and sized wire and ground them AGAIN, to a clean ground at a solid part of body INLINE WITH WHERE BATTERY IS GROUNDED. This will or should I’m my experience get rid of that dreaded ground loop noise and that awful bass drop thud after the car is cut off and my link shuts down. That bass drop is fucking awful!!!!! Ok, I’m tired of picking this apart for the people watching doing their own vehicles that want it done 100% or at least 90% right that will last the life of the car. I won’t say this guy is wrong, I will say that’s not the way I would do any car in my shop and suggest anyone tackling their own project follow my advice. May have a few less car fires if they do. Lol good luck to any and all. Apply the few things I suggest to all your electrical and audio in your vehicle and you’ll be just fine. Solder everything and stay away from any kind of crimp connector if you can. They work, and are acceptable, but in my experience, they don’t last or hold up, especially when you add a 10”, 12”, or 15” subwoofer. Good luck
@sullivanjpaul1
Жыл бұрын
And again, no disrespect to owner of video, he installed amp exactly how most car audio shops install amps. This method is used widely to keep cost to consumer down and allow car audio shops to stay in business. There are plenty of people in the 17-28 year old range that have the money to spend on a more custom install method like I’m suggesting, but truth is that’s not the majority and the average 18 year old is only willing to spend so much on hiring a shop to do their install before the price becomes too much and they attempt the install themselves since they don’t have the money to spend on a more custom install. How many shops do you see in business today that only do car audio? I don’t see any personally. Now I see shops that do everything from wraps and window tinting, custom wheels and tires, body part upgrades and accessories, audio, detailing, lighting, and much more all in one shop. I used to work for a shop that did nothing but car audio and eventually window tinting and vinyl decals for commercial vehicles. That business went under cause he couldn’t afford to buy equipment and hire people who knew how to do other things so he could offer more services. So now it seems like the shops in business now are a one stop shop and offer pretty much any service for your car, boat, rv, commercial vehicle, commercial led strobe warning ligting, etc. you get what im saying. So I hope after saying all that anyone reading this understands the person who posted this video installed everything clean and up to or beyond industry standards. I posted a whole bunch of stuff to reach those who can’t afford to hire a shop or just want to do it themselves and learn. Everything I suggested either won’t cost you any extra or will cost you less. Crimp connectors, t-taps and others like them aren’t cheap anymore. Just a good crimped alone can cost 29$ up to 60$. Those cheap crimpeds that come with some connector kits are junk!!! So moral is, this guy did a excellent clean install to regular standards, and what I’m suggesting people to do is go the extra mile to have a better install when your all done that will have a much higher probability of lasting and not causing any issues down the line. Like the saying goes, do once, do it right. Hope owner understands and agrees with what I’m saying and believes me when I say I’m not bashing on him at all. I started off like I was, but it was only my personal hatred to T-Taps in general that made me sound like I was about to shit on him. I wasn’t and never had any intentions to. Thanks
@GardeningInMangalore
3 жыл бұрын
Nice informative upload 👍
@StinkyVlogs
2 жыл бұрын
What are your bypassing in the beginning of the video?
@mattm3843
2 жыл бұрын
Note because I've seen it done wrong , 2010-14 Boston system using rear left there is a blue/blue white and a green /blue white , use the green and blue because its the low signal, blue white is positive and the green is negative, bridge the loc + to + and -to - . Also ground the amp to battery its fine no worries no reason to drill into chassis.
@deiondyson512
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you sir
@dannygonzalez4017
Жыл бұрын
You said use blue and green but then say blue white is positive I’m sure it’s a mistake but im about to do mine …. Blue is positive and green is negative correct? Those are the ones i tap into
@ricric-po4pq
Жыл бұрын
Is it good to ground to battery??
@jadonmutzbauer9405
2 жыл бұрын
I’ve got a 2014 did everything you did and I’ve got nothing not only that did exactly what you did and blew a fuse!
@khmerohio
2 жыл бұрын
Amplifier fuse?
@sasaso8093
3 жыл бұрын
Nice 😊
@shadowblanco7689
2 жыл бұрын
I got a LOC without a remote wire. Can i still use it without the remote wire or does the amp need it?? Appreciate the vid 👍
@khmerohio
2 жыл бұрын
Yes the amplifier need a remote wire but some newer amplifier doesn't apply. You will need to go to the fuse and look for ignition or accessory
@jeffey828
Ай бұрын
why don’t you need to tapped into the right rear speaker and only the left rear? Wouldn’t you want to hook the loc to both left rear and right rear speakers? Is there a difference and if so What’s the difference?
@SopheakKH
3 жыл бұрын
Good 👍🏻👍
@josefdoesthings
3 жыл бұрын
How did you connect the amp to the subwoofer? What cable?
@khmerohio
3 жыл бұрын
The Amplifier should have positive + and negative - output
@fornneybernard2294
2 жыл бұрын
That’s what I was gonna ask.
@khmerohio
2 жыл бұрын
You have one side is + positive and the other side is - Negative to the speakers
@mattm3843
2 жыл бұрын
Speaker out from amp to subwoofer ? Also check the ohm on the speaker get it wired to 2 ohms preferred but 4 is ok , remember with the loc instead of traditional rca outta the deck it will be quieter then normal and dropping ohms is a way to combat that.
@jadonmutzbauer9405
2 жыл бұрын
@@mattm3843 so basically ur not gonna get as much bass as you would coming from ur deck?
@swoleousis9215
Жыл бұрын
For the power wire, can I use black or red wire? The wire that came with the kit I bought, it won’t give power to the amp. I don’t know if it’s the amp or the power wire
@khmerohio
Жыл бұрын
The wire does not matter as long as you know which one come from the battery which one comes from the ground and then they also a remote wire now in order to check if you got power to the amplifier or not tap the b+ which is power and remote together the amp should come on
@swoleousis9215
Жыл бұрын
I bought LOC2SL and I connect the black/white and black/gray to negative and solid white and solid gray to positive just like you show on the video and T-Tap those to the black to yellow and red to the positive. I connect yellow to power on the amp, black to ground on the amp. Is that the correct way?
@khmerohio
Жыл бұрын
The blue/white to remote at the amp
@swoleousis9215
Жыл бұрын
When I connect the blue/white to the remote on amp and turn on the car, there’s no power
@khmerohio
Жыл бұрын
Ok let's go ahead tap the remote to the B+(power) no the amp should come on if not check your fuse at the battery
@ricric-po4pq
Жыл бұрын
Hi there I’m getting a buzz in my speakers and winning sounds when driving and a pop when I power off my car any suggestions
@khmerohio
Жыл бұрын
What brand is your LOC?
@ricric-po4pq
Жыл бұрын
@@khmerohio no loc
@ricric-po4pq
Жыл бұрын
@@khmerohio I was thinking re grounding
@acegrxxve8627
2 жыл бұрын
Where does the remote wire go
@khmerohio
2 жыл бұрын
I used Kisloc2 made by kicker it has remote output
@malcolmalvarez5740
2 жыл бұрын
My camaro when I turn off the sub stays on I don’t know what to do
@khmerohio
2 жыл бұрын
Your remote wire is giving you powet
@heavenleighgomez6762
2 жыл бұрын
hi am having this same problem what can i do different to fix it ?
@be1515
2 жыл бұрын
What kind of adapter was put on the speaker wire to not strip them? I can’t understand what’s being said.
@khmerohio
2 жыл бұрын
High low converter or LOC same name ?
@be1515
2 жыл бұрын
@@khmerohio around the 15 min mark
@khmerohio
2 жыл бұрын
T-tap you can find it Amazon
@AlejandroLopez-fi8pt
3 ай бұрын
Any idea why my subs are giving sound? wiring is all the same, amp turns on but not subs. my previous sub amp worked fine.
@khmerohio
3 ай бұрын
What is the brand of your loc ?
@AlejandroLopez-fi8pt
3 ай бұрын
@@khmerohio It is Metra.
@khmerohio
3 ай бұрын
Take the speakers out of the box and check the wiring. i think it's loose
@AlejandroLopez-fi8pt
3 ай бұрын
@@khmerohio opened up the box to check. the wires still look good. what do you think now?
@khmerohio
3 ай бұрын
Disconnect the speaker wire from the amplifier. Now take a 9vlts battery and tap the positive and negative, if no sound speaker is blown
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