Phander (Urdu: پھنڈر) is the name of a settlement and valley in the Gupis-Yasin District of Pakistan's dependent territory of Gilgit-Baltistan. It is situated about 184 Kilometers away on the road from Gilgit to the Shandur Pass, from where the road goes on to Chitral. It is well known locally that there is a reason for naming this valley Phander, as "Phan" means palm in the local Khowar language and this place is flat like a palm, hence it was called Phander. This place is a tourist attraction because of its beautiful sceneries. There are four lakes in this small place, of which Phander Lake is the largest. Phander is one of the few places where the Gilgit River divides into several pieces as it enters the valley, and finally merges with each other as it exits the valley.
Language, culture, and religion in Phander
Phander’s residents are primarily Khwar-speaking Ismaili Muslims, followers of the Aga Khan.
Ismailis as a whole are generally quite educated and liberal. You’ll see plenty of women walking around compared to other parts of Pakistan, boys and girls often go to mixed gender schools, and literacy rates are relatively high.
This was particularly important to me as I traveled to Phander during Ramadan. Luckily, Ismailis are not prone to fasting, so eating during the day wasn’t too difficult or offensive to others.
However, despite the liberal atmosphere, take the usual measures. Dress modestly, and make sure to always ask before taking someone’s photo. The vast majority of the women I met in Phander did not want to be photographed. (Alex Reynolds)
Things to do in Phander
Phander is the kind of place where you sit and watch the world go by, not rush through a bucket list of Top Things To Do. Though I think you should take a breather and let things unfold organically, there are a few things you can look forward to in Phander:
Go trout fishing
Phander is allll about trout fishing, and many locals are crazy about it.
Officially you need a permit to go fishing… but no one has one, and no one checks. Ask your hotel owner if you can borrow a fishing rod (a rhetorical question), and head down to the water to try your luck. The river areas around Handrap town outside of Phander were particularly bountiful when I was there in May.
Note that fishing season comes to a close in fall, when trout mating season begins.
Short hikes and village walks
Just strolling around the villages and waterways is pleasant, and you’re sure to meet some friendly folks. If you want to push yourself a bit harder, you can follow some of the shepherd tracks up the surrounding mountains. Otherwise, there are two nelas, narrow waterways, that you can follow up into the mountains. One begins in Chashi, the village below/before Phander when you’re coming from Gilgit. Another begins in Handrap. If you look at them on the map, both head south.
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