Nice work, pal. That beer sounds great. The simple recipes are often the best. Looking forward to the taste test!
@brewbeer1013
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks mate 👌 It was a dream of a brew day as they say 3rd time lucky 😃. I think we have the brewster system sussed now so over the next few brew days I hope to ramp up the intensity. If you have any suggestions of what you want brewing just let me know and ill give it a go 🤣. Hope your getting on with yours alright too 😎 Cheers 🍻
@AnalogueInTheUK
3 жыл бұрын
@@brewbeer1013 Sound! I use a Brewmonk, having done BIAB for a few years prior. I also do overnight no-chill so tend to make beers that work best with NC such as Stouts and Wheat beers, since they usually only have a single hop addition at 60 mins and that's it! I'd love to see a Wit made using these 1-vessel systems. I have nightmares about stuck mashes with Wits and have avoided them, even though they're lovely beers in the summertime. Happy brewing!
@michaeljames3509
3 жыл бұрын
WHAT AN AWESOME BREW DAY!!!!! The wort on top of the goop looked great. The fly sparge procedure was great, too. Tannin extraction is a time, temperature, pH, thing, and that's why vorlauf is kept within 10 minutes. In a brewing system that recirculates a high volume of hot extract through a grain bed for a long period of time, causes over sparge to occur, which extracts tannin. When 1/2 Lt of extract recirculates for one hour through a grain bill/bed, sized for a 20 Lt. batch of beer, 30 Lt of extract is recirculated, that's over sparge. The wort in the hydrometer sample looked the way wort should look. The sludge dropped out after chilling, and the wort above the sludge was nice and clear, containing, only, small flecks of protein, which will drop out during conditioning. The wort should be left to settle for a few hours after chilling, then, racked off the sludge, before adding yeast. Wheat is high in protein, which can be challenging to deal with, depending on the amount used. Excess, carried over protein reduces shelf life. To keep things nice, and simple, use one, high quality, base malt. Beer produced from extract drawn from mash resting at 66, turns out higher in ABV. At 65, 66, Alpha, releases the highest amount of simple sugar, glucose, from simple starch, within one hour. Glucose is responsible for primary fermentation, and ABV. Saccharification occurs when Alpha liquefies amylose. When Alpha liquefies amylose, two chains form, which are called the reducing end, and the nonreducing end. The reducing end contains 1-4 links, which Alpha liquefies, and when all the 1-4 links are liquefied, sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar remain. The nonreducing end is glucose. The higher the rest temperature, sweeter tasting, lower in ABV beer is produced. The higher the temperature, the quicker, Alpha denatures. Beta is responsible for conversion, which occurs at 60 to 63, when under modified, low protein, malt, such as, Gladfield's and Weyermann's base malts are used. High modified, high protein, malt is more suitable for making whiskey. Level of modification, and protein content are listed on a malt spec sheet, which comes with every bag of malt. A brewer uses a malt spec sheet, basically, for one reason, and that's to determine if malt is better for making whiskey, or more suitable, for producing ale and lager. Malt spec sheets are online from every malthouse, and the data provides E Caveat Emptor. At 66, and when malt is added into high temperature strike water, low temperature activated enzymes rapidly, denature, Beta in particular. During the conversion rest, Beta, turns glucose into fermentable, complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose. Maltose and maltotriose are the types of sugar that produces ale and lager. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place, and beer naturally carbonates during conditioning. The conversion rest is skipped in single temperature infusion because the brewing method is used in grain distillation, where Beta gets in the way, and the enzyme is purposely, denatured. Also, depending on the level of modification, an Alpha-Beta enzyme mixture would need to be added into the mash for conversion to occur. There's a malthouse producing Marris malt containing less than 10 percent protein, which is great, because the less protein in malt, the more starch/sugar. The issue with the malt is that the malt is over modified, which means, the malt is less rich in enzyme content. When malt contains less enzymes, and contains a high amount of starch, diastatic power is low, which is OK, as long as, corn and rice aren't added. An Alpha-Beta enzyme mixture has to be added to the mash for conversion to occur. In malt, there's a type of hard, heat resistant, complex starch, called amylopectin. Amylopectin makes up the tips of malt, and it's the richest starch in malt. Contained in amylopectin are A and B limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar, and pectin. Limit dextrin, and pectin provides body and mouthfeel in beer, along with, a type of protein. The temperatures used in the infusion method aren't high enough to open up heat resistant, amylopectin, where it enters into the mash liquid, before Alpha denatures, and the starch is left in the spent mash. When amylopectin is thrown away, beer, overly dries, and thins during fermentation, and conditioning. To take advantage of amylopectin, the triple decoction, and the Hochkurz brewing methods are used, which produce authentic, ale and lager. When the boiling mash is added back into the main mash, Alpha, liquefies the amylopectin, and dextrinization, and gelatinization occur. The only time dextrinization occurs in the infusion method happens when amylose contains a 1-6 link in the starch chain, which is extremely, rare. If you boil some of the mash a couple of times, and use the boiling mash for raising the main mash temperature to conversion temperature, and another decoction to raise main mash temperature to a higher temperature saccharification rest, the beer will be less sweet, but will contain A and B limit dextrin. The beer will have the body to properly, condition, and not dry and thin out. The finest ales, and lagers are produced from dextrinous extract. You can go artsy, craftsy, by resting each decoction at a different temperature, and by adjusting the length of time each decoction is boiled. Skim off hot break as it forms, and continue to remove hot break, until, it drastically reduces. When that happens, add hops, and skim off second break. The extract will be a little cleaner, and less hops are needed. STAY PARCHED, STAY SAFE, STAY BREWING.
@brewbeer1013
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Michael 😎 its great to see you back. One of the most enjoyable brew days Iv had in a while as it went so straightforward 👍 During 3 vessel brews I would normally run approx 2 litres of the initial run off from the mash tun and recirculate that to bed the grain and remove the early grain fines from entering the boiler. Using the new vessel in my view removes the need to vorlauf at all as its recirculating for the mash duration. One improvement I will look to try on my next brew day will be the removal of the hot break to reduce the protein levels and also im considering allowing a settlement time overnight for the wort cold break and then decant to a new fermenting vessel to pitch the yeast. Its great that by introducing new steps to each brew day we can build up the complexity slowly while capturing the content for others to enjoy too. Do you have any literature you can recommend? I would lve to develop my understanding of the enzyme and sugar implications of what actually occurs through stages of the beer production. Once again your comment is much appreciated, Cheers 🍻
@jonisaksholm6840
3 жыл бұрын
I would like to get instructions to create that kind of sparge arm.. looks so cool!
@brewbeer1013
3 жыл бұрын
Hey Joni, these are only £24 to buy and come with all it needs to use. I dont think I could make one for that price 🤣 and tubes of stainless steel can be a bit of a pig to drill. I suggest you purchase one ready made like I did. Mine is the 10.5 inch version check this link out 😎 www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Stainless_Steel_Rotating_Sparge_Arm.html Cheers 🍻
@TheGrimbarianBrewer
2 жыл бұрын
Another great video and hope it turns out well. Cheers mate 🍺 🍻
@Gibboncore
2 жыл бұрын
Santa brought me a Brewmonk so I am moving from Electrim boilers and homemade mash tuns to a more sophisticated system where I can do pretty much everything in one vessel. My main concern is knowing what is best to do in the Brewmonk and what is best to do in more old school ways. I am most concerned about the run off after the boil and whether I should do this using the pump, the tap or syphon. I really like your sparge arm, I certainly will look to hunt one of those down, but what I really want to know is what is the purpose of your home made insert for the tap. Is it to reclaim as much wort as possible before hitting the trub or is it to avoid blockages during mashing? How well does it work?
@brewbeer1013
2 жыл бұрын
Hi Gibboncore, your brewmonk should be able to do the entire process apart from providing sparge water. Most just poor a kettle over the grain but if you have your old 3 vessel system still then i would use your sparge tank rather than kettles as it will be easier to control sparge temp and volume. The rotating sparge arm is very effective and entertaining too 😂. The brewster beacon comes with a filter mesh (see my unboxing vid) that sits in the bottom of the boiler for the entire process to stop the pump from blocking but i found on my first test run it kept trapping bubbles from the element and floating up in the brew aswell as clanging around i was affraid of it dry boiling the element so i dont think its the best design. So i made my own copper version that i used in my old boiler from the 3 vessel setup. As you said this helps draw down as low as possible to maximise the volume output but also filters all the the trub and hops out at the end of the boil without blinding or blocking the pump. I have to use the pump as i wanted to use my counterflow chiller so need the pump to push it through. If your using a submersion chiller then you could just syphoon it out after chilling if you dont have counterflow. In which case you wont need a filter at all as you wont need to use the pump at the end anyway. Hope this helps you out and all the best for your first brewday 👍👍
@Gibboncore
2 жыл бұрын
@@brewbeer1013 My last brew day was a total disaster. After the mash and sparge my boiler broke and I had to pull the back up boiler out of the cellar which also broke… two dead Electrim bins in one day! After much swearing and kicking things round I decided the only way forward was to do the boil on the cooker. Problem being that we only have one 5 Litre stove pot… luckily I normally brew in 20L batches. As you know 4 sixty minute boils does not only take 4 hours… luckily this beer wasn’t anything requiring a longer boiling period! By 2am I was just wrapping things up! The following day the first fermentation failed (never had that happen before) so 24 hours later I managed to get the fermentation going… at the end of the process I ended up with a very nice beer… which I am drinking as I type! After this experience when I bought the Brewmonk I also bought their spargewater heater so it could act as an emergency boiler if needed. I also live in an area with hard water so I didn’t want to put unboiled water in the small pipes and pump of my Brewmonk. I am going to try your suggestion of using my old sparge vessel to regulate the flow of sparge water from the heater. The Brewmonk only has a small filter for during the boil which, from what I what have heard elsewhere, may block easily even during circulation during the mash… not tried it yet so I don’t know but your home made filter might be a better option in the long run. Here’s hoping for a successful brew day. As for cooling I usually let nature take its course and run straight out of the boiler into the fermenter and let it cool there with a loose cover on top. I know there is an element of risk to this but this has never yet been an issue for me. Thanks very much for the advice. Happy brewing! Cheers
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