Confessional: I kept f**king up the opening sequence whilst we were filming, getting various details wrong and omitting others, and this was the one I thought I'd got right 🤦♂
@il24ir
11 ай бұрын
@@ukclimbingofficial 😂😂Videos are always top notch, its a small blip
@ukclimbingofficial
11 ай бұрын
I do wonder whether we should release the outtakes sometime. Maybe one for around Christmas when we’re a little light on news 😅
@rudolphteperberry3888
11 ай бұрын
From where I'm sitting, there is zero difference between V15 and V16 🤣But seriously my peak is more like V8 and at that grade there are enough people climbing it to come to a reasonable consensus. If it's a perfect route for my style I met get it pretty quick (and think surely that's not V8, then I see a much better climber than me struggle on it because it really isn't their style) if it's really not my style I won't get it at all!. But at V15/16 level there aren't enough people to give a reliable consensus, plus at that highest level people are only climbing routes that perfectly suit their strengths, which makes it even harder to grade objectively.
@ukclimbingofficial
11 ай бұрын
Something I've observed is that people very infrequently acknowledge when they're on form and instead prefer to attribute the fact that they're flying to everything being soft (as opposed to them being strong). I've definitely been guilty of this previously and it's something we touched upon within the interview we did with Pete Whittaker a couple of weeks ago.
@philippkieffer2456
11 ай бұрын
If I remember correctly, Bernd Zangerl set up New Base Line as 8C traverse and in the olden days 8C traverse equated to 8B+ bloc. That means that the boulder hasn't actually been downgraded. The traverse grade has just gone out of fashion and people have forgotten that there's a difference between trav and bloc.
@setadoon
11 ай бұрын
Janja needs to colab with Jimmy and D. Woods. That psych circle would have her sending god lvl boulders for sure!
@augustclimbing
11 ай бұрын
Great coverage, guys! It’s so exciting to see what’s happening in women’s bouldering 👍🏻👍🏻 No doubt we’ll see V16 or even V17 from Brooke, Janja, Katie, and others! Maybe late 2024 or sometime in 2025 will be a big year for this (following the Olympics) 🤔
@ukclimbingofficial
11 ай бұрын
The future is bright, that's for sure 🤩
@marknicholas-mw9rs
11 ай бұрын
It should simply be noted that some very strong climbers felt its a soft grade. Others will disagree. Move on
@ukclimbingofficial
11 ай бұрын
That's a pretty fair summary. It'll be interesting to see where it settles though, but like you say - there'll always be some that find it soft, others that find it hard. I suspect I sit in the hard camp, or the impossible camp 😂
@richardbradley1532
11 ай бұрын
Great team effort 👌
@ukclimbingofficial
11 ай бұрын
We’re back on it again after a couple of weeks off 💪
@jacoby310
11 ай бұрын
missed opportunity to say "grade-based Raboutou"
@ukclimbingofficial
11 ай бұрын
I'm going to have to live the rest of my life regretting the fact I didn't say that now you've pointed it out 😂
@tahoemike5828
11 ай бұрын
Is the video of this out somewhere?
@ukclimbingofficial
11 ай бұрын
Not yet, but I suspect it will be sometime soon 🤞
@SpartaSpartan117
11 ай бұрын
What climbing team would win Brooke and Shawn? Or Jimmy and Daniel?
@mateherbay2289
11 ай бұрын
Janja
@MrWhoabuddy
11 ай бұрын
why can't it be both? it's possible it could be v16 for one person or maybe even v14 for another person depending on different body types.
@eurekaflows
11 ай бұрын
Because that's against the nature of grading, which is an attempt to make a very subjective experience as objective as possible. And thus, grading must be based on the easiest beta and experience possible.
@sloppyfroppy9292
11 ай бұрын
Why even have grades then? You sound like the kind of person who gives away participation medals.
@MrWhoabuddy
11 ай бұрын
@@eurekaflows the grading system we have sucks. the constant debate over this grade or that grade is proof it doesn't work. If you have 2 people that are a foot apart in height, they're likely going to feel differently about a climb's difficulty and may do completely different moves entirely. If you're climbing something in a completely different way, one could argue you're not even doing the same climb. I know the system won't change and I know my opinion will get shut down, but that's fine. It's just my opinion after all.
@MrWhoabuddy
11 ай бұрын
Good question. My suggestion is to change the system we use. And you sound like the kind of person who likes to talk shit behind the safety of a computer monitor.@@sloppyfroppy9292
@andrewhunter6536
11 ай бұрын
@@MrWhoabuddy isn’t debate the whole point? Things reach a consensus over time. Sure it doesn’t happen often to the local 7a but that’s because it’s been climbed 100 times already so the consensus is already reached. So I don’t think debate ‘proof it doesn’t work’. Grades are useful as a guide line when going to other areas (grade x is a warm up, grade y hard but flashable, grade z will probably need multiple attempts, etc). People know some climbs are morpho (that isn’t intrinsically a bad thing) but I don’t see a streamline solution that accounts for differences. A grade table for every boulder for arm span and hight? Not easy to put in a guide book. What’s your solution?
@kenanzober8795
11 ай бұрын
@drewruana is probably one sad boy right now. he's not quite as tough guy as the big little man himself thought. this coming from my v7 couch.
@ukclimbingofficial
11 ай бұрын
I didn't get that impression at all. In fact, his quote suggests he's pretty on board with the downgrade.
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