Haha... What can I say. I like tinkering with things. This is a real challenge... it keeps me interested, haha.
@wallacegrommet9343
Жыл бұрын
I disassembled my German Espar D2 heater after 8 years of use. The burn chamber contained only a very fine layer of dusty ash. I burn Ultra Low Sulfur diesel exclusively.
@jorgruthschilling
Жыл бұрын
The Chinese diesel heater run also a few thousands hours without cleaning, but only if you run them on good quality diesel and do not manipulate neither fan speed nor the pump frequency. The optimal air fuel ratio for these diesel heaters is between 1.05 < λ 1.10 In general the blower unit is limiting the maximum heat output. The combustion air blower wheel is vulnerable to high temperatures. If the heater backfires into the blower unit it very often damages the blower wheel. The typical reason for damaged blower wheels is the abuse of starter spray. If the diesel heater's combustion air blower wheel is damaged the air fuel ratio gets too rich and the diesel heater does not burn all fuel completely, carbon builds up inside the burner.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Yes... When you run diesel in your diesel heater, they work much better and need very little service. Funny how that works 🤣 Seems like the engineers knew what they were doing. These cheaper heaters also run for a very long time without issue, if you run them at a sensible air fuel ratio and only burn diesel in them.
@donnied6759
Жыл бұрын
@Lowered Expectations You seemed upset in this experiment that your heater wasn't cruded up enuff.l 😆 🤣 😂 I'm sure you'll succeed in screwing something up soon
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@donnied6759 🤣 HAHA ! All that work for such a small amount of crud ! Come on !!
@kirkwalsh1932
7 ай бұрын
Watching these again is like watching season 1 of The Simpsons.
@loweredexpectations4927
7 ай бұрын
Haha ! That's great.
@kmet2000
10 ай бұрын
In the old days - my father ran a purpose built waste engine oil heater. There were two main differences compared to heating oil burner (red diesel): Oil preheater Higher pressure fuel pump. Main issues were that oil heater got carboned up and the second was pressure drop on the fuel pump due to wear. Buildup was always there. No mater how well the burn was. I guess this buildup is related to metal based soap additives in the oil. And the newer the oil - the more additives, the more buildup. Of course - there are no metsl based soap additives in the diesel.
@loweredexpectations4927
10 ай бұрын
Thanks for the comment. Yes, atomization of fuel helps it burn more efficiently. These heaters have that working against them, as they are basically candles that have the fuel delivered. There is no pressure at all and the fuel "atomizes" or flashes off only because of the heat in the burn chamber. There is sort of a wick material in the main burn area, and I think it helps a little with diesel, spreading the burn over a larger area. Not terribly effective with oil. It's almost like diesel was carefully engineered to burn and oils were not🤣
@kmet2000
10 ай бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 Well, there are slso sugar and sosage rockets, corn forges etc... The resedue from engine oil will reman in any case. Engines need additives and detergents to protect metal and clean residue. Prehrating oil could be achived with a copule or more copper loops arround exhaust. Not at startup but when warmed up for sure. There was a mod on YT with dual fuel with simple 3 way valve to switch from diesel to oil. Should be simple to do. I intend to run it on 50/50 with various oils. If trouble on startup - i will do a dual fuel setup. This was don on agricultural grass cutters from BCS Italy. You had started them up on petrol and than switch to petrolium when warmed up. Those were some devilishly and smelly beastd 😁
@loweredexpectations4927
10 ай бұрын
@@kmet2000 Yes, I wasn't disputing the fact that engine oils have additives and that they will obviously add up... However, I believe they are a small part of the "problem" compared to the issues of burning oil itself. I have played with preheating, but made a video talking about why I don't use copper around the exhaust. It can get hot enough to flash the oil off, especially if there are impurities in the oil, and cause feeding issues, amon other problems. The set up I had kept the oil / fuel around 100C. I also played with dual fuel, and that helped for sure. Better start ups and obviously brings the burn chamber up to temp before the oil enters. The problem that I eventually ran into is that the burn chamber is not able to maintain a reasonable temperature where the fuel enters. The diesel has no issues flashing off, but the oil takes much more heat, and there just isn't enough. Many of my experiments were trying to keep heat in the area where the fuel enters. Haha... Yes a gasoline engine will run on diesel if you start it on gasoline... I have done it several times. It makes a LOT of smoke, and they don't like it... usually requires running with the choke on.... but they will run. I'm guessing this wouldn't work in a fuel injected engine though.
@werner.x
Жыл бұрын
I think, the higher amount of residues was to be expected, although hard to estimate, when or what waste oil will have more or less of it. Because: Used engine oil contains a lot of soot, especially diesel motor oil - but soot burns away. It contains a little bit of ashes, not a lot any more not to clog particulate filters - ashes cannot be burnt furthermore. But fresh motor oil still containes the full load of additives, which later get sheared, worn and used up partially. Also the oil molecules of new motor oil still have their full length, which i assume, may add up to more residues than sheared, shortened molecules. But i won't insist on that point, because i'm just a mechanic and not a chemist. Btw: Don't let advertising fool you, dpf cleaner cannot reduce ashes, besides the amount of ash, it mechanically carries away, just like water. In general, a freshly regenerated dpf filter, which fails the pressure difference monitoring due to beeing loaded with (unburnable) ashes, profits a huge lot more from a backflow with water than from dpf cleaner in the gas tank. Dpf cleaner just does the same, as an electronical induced superheating of the dpf filter does, if you use your vehicle accordingly. It heats up the still burnable soot to its burning point. No, actually, it reduces the burning point of soot, so it burns away easier.
@Keith24GB
Жыл бұрын
That's a pretty good explanation of why you think waste oil burns better, and it sounds very plosable 👏
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the detailed comment. I think that you are correct about the waste oil vs new oil in many ways. Not all waste oil is the same, and not all new oil is the same. I have talked to a chemist who works with oil and she said that one of the quality tests for oil is to burn it and test the ash content. Good oil has a higher flash point, but produces less ash when it burns. She also pointed out that fuel / oil burning at different temperatures creates different compounds. So, the oil itself, and the additives / contamination can produce different compounds depending on how hot or cold the chamber is. As for the DPF cleaner. I have had it and similar things recommended by a lot of people, but as a mechanic, I have rarely, if ever, seen products like this work. Even if the chemistry is sound, there is a huge difference between spraying combustion chamber cleaner on a cylinder head and mixing it into fuel at 100:1 I feel like even if the DPF cleaner "works", meaning it lowers the burn point of the soot, the rate at which it is deposited would be far greater than the rate that it burns away.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Indeed. I agree.
@alouisschafer7212
8 ай бұрын
Filtered waste oil is the best then. Optimally a 0w30 or thinner too.
@lanceulbrich6249
Жыл бұрын
Maybe fiberglass sheet for insulation? You are on the right track with your oil preheat setup I think.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment. I will be trying a LOT of different things in upcoming videos, trying to get and keep heat in the burn area... It turns out to be quite the challenge... there is a crazy amount of heat in the chamber (around 1000C) but collecting that heat is a challenge.
@NY411Info
Жыл бұрын
I would've been frustrated by now and quit. My heater has had around 60 gallons (228 Liters) of Diesel run through it since Dec/19/2022. Still seems nice and clean in the exhaust port. We'll dismantle it in the spring when the season is over and give it a good sand blasting.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
🤣 See... that's called sanity and I suffer from insanity. I just works in my favor, sometimes. I enjoy experimenting !
@williamwilliams8145
Жыл бұрын
If you put some stainless steel wire wool around the slotted doodad where the fuel goes into the burn chamber behind the washer it might reach red heat and help vaporize the oil. Basically replacing the wire mesh you found and removed when you cut the burn chamber open.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment. I actually tried something very similar to that recently ... it will be in an upcoming video. Cheers.
@NittyGrittyDirtVan
10 ай бұрын
I had no expectations. Congratulations, You met them! Keep it up, putting used motor oil in diesel heater is right up with sticking a can of spray paint in a microwave. Pointless but fun to watch. Take Care and keep of the ummm, good, maybe not the right word, work!
@loweredexpectations4927
10 ай бұрын
🤣 Clever ! Thanks for the comment !!
@wallacegrommet9343
Жыл бұрын
A good, roaring chimney fire will clean up all that soot
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Yup... I grew up in house with a wood furnace... If it's built well it will just burn itself out without any issues, haha.
@curtwuollet2912
7 ай бұрын
I think I mentioned before that there is a lot of stuff in motor oil that will not burn. The used MO dirt is only part of the problem. Who knows, it may burn. If you want to clean oil, slowly but easily, put it up on a shelf. Put a rope in it and dangle it down to a catch pan. Soaking through the rope will filter it pretty clean. Old farmers hack. Takes a long time.
@loweredexpectations4927
7 ай бұрын
Haha... that is a pretty neat method of filtering oil. I think I may have heard of it before, but not sure. Yeah... I would like to know the percentage of additives in a conventional oil, by weight. I just did a test where I burnt 6L of waste oil, and there was about 30 grams of ash. That's about 5kg of oil, so that's about 0.6% That being said, I think a significant part of the mass was from a brain fart / a lot of metal contamination, so that would be considerably less than .6%
@curtwuollet2912
7 ай бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 I think I saw it in an old, old book on farming.
@curtwuollet2912
7 ай бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 I just happened to think. You might check out what ships did to burn bunker oil. the dregs of the distilling process. I think they used gun type burners.
@loweredexpectations4927
7 ай бұрын
@@curtwuollet2912 I have considered trying a distillation process, in a few different ways. maybe some day.
@wallacefrey6247
Жыл бұрын
Great video as always, love watching your experiments.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
The never ending experiments. I have some silly / interesting ones coming up ...
@nathanielzammit3724
Жыл бұрын
I have a diesel heater that i modified to burn 50/50 waste engine oil and diesel works good, but what i fonud to be the best is to start it on diesel let it run for half an hour and then switch to 50/50 diesel waste oil mix ill run it for as long as i need then before i shut it off i switch it back to diesel and leave it running for a solid hour on max to burn all the oil which had solidified. I only clean it once i 2 weeks of use, the usage is like 12 hours a day. The only thing i did to my burn chamber is drilled a 6mm hole in the burn baffle plate and second which helped me a lot is to put the heater in a slanted way the heat output lower than the air inlet to help the ashes go .
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Interesting. I have been starting and stopping on diesel, and that does help, but I don't run on 50/50. I have been monitoring temperatures in my heater with a few thermo couples. While the diesel will help clean out crud, your heater will reach full temp in about 10 minutes.
@nathanielzammit3724
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927i have tried to run 70/30 but I've got a problem the heater will produce black smoke and a lot of soot and plugs up the exhaust
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@nathanielzammit3724 That's interesting.
@nathanielzammit3724
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 And try to adjust your pump speed from 5.5 to 4.2 or 4.3 or 4.4, hertz mine is set to 4.3 hertz
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@nathanielzammit3724 Yeah, I just got an adjustable controller last week and have been playing with it a bit.
@MrHugemoth
Жыл бұрын
I think no matter what, you're going to get that buildup whenever you burn motor oil, new or used. When you talk to Vevor you might ask them to send you one of the screw apart burn chambers.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
I have heard of the screw apart chambers... was it you that mentioned them before ? I still have not seen such a thing, but I think it's a cool idea. I think you are probably correct. This residue is likely going to always be an issue to some extent. I can still see black carbon under all of the white(ish) stuff, so I know that an incomplete burn is still part of the problem. My question is. When the oil burns at a high temperature and burns off completely, how much crap is left behind and what happens to that crap? If it builds up in a similar manner, then the best I can do is extend the time between service.
@NY411Info
Жыл бұрын
They might know what company make the screw on combustion chambers. Vevor is just a boxing company. They buy from many companies and stamp their name on it.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@NY411Info Yeah... Someone there might know, if they actually can get that information to me, that is a different question. I asked them to find out what units (of or any units) have a adjustable controller with admin settings, and I haven't heard back from them. I hate to say this, but unless I can sell them a lot of heaters, I don't think they are interested in helping me. They are a business and their interest in me is based on my ability to make money for them. We'll see.
@NY411Info
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 They may give you the information, however I'm going to guess notta. It is a liability for them, especially since they know what you are doing with it. If someone got hurt or worse they could be sued. I'm sure I've seen McLuckie play with some of these heaters that have the same controller as yours. Shoot him a message. Maybe you can get the sequence needed to get into the service menus.
@Weldoholic
10 ай бұрын
I think the new oil did worse because it probably has a higher vaporizing temp than spent oil does. Not to mention the fact that older motors will put gas into the oil after time too from incomplete combustion
@jodysimpson486
Жыл бұрын
I am just burning diesel right now trying to "break in" me new heater before I try to experiment on used oil. I have been tinkering around the settings. I used the secret code 1688 to get into the programing. My factory settings were 1.6 and max 5.5 oil. The max fan speed was 5500. It is supposed to be 8kw unit. (not vevor). I turned the max speed down to 4000 and max fuel settings to 7.0. When it is running at full speed the fuel pump clicks like crazy and slows for a few minutes and speeds back up. Looking at the display it must cut the fuel pump clicking back when the case gets around 220. I wonder if you turn down your fan speed and run the oil around 4 or 5 if the internal temp would be higher and burn the oil a little easier. My buddy that runs a oil heater at his shop said used motor oil filtered through a 1 micron filter would have less residue in the burn chamber since the additives in motor oil breakdown over 3k to 5k miles. He thinks all the crud left behind in your burn chamber is mostly the additives and caked oil due to the burn temp not getting hot enough.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Your "correct" fan speed and pump hz will largely depend on your elevation, but that seems like a lot of fuel for 4000 rpm. It's likely running very rich. "clicking like crazy". Yes, 7hz is 7 pulses per second. (420 per minute) The pump will usually slow at a chosen heat range. Mine slows the pump when it reaches 210C and speed back up when it goes to 208C. This is to avoid the heater overheating. Your heater will likely run cleaner if you dial back the fuel until it runs around 218 and never slows the pump down. The issue with slowing the fan speed and decreasing the fuel flow is that you produce less heat energy (kw / btus). The resulting lack of heat isn't enough to keep the heater or the chamber hot enough and it actually makes the heater clog up more quickly. I have tried this by running in alpine mode. I think that that is probably accurate. The chamber / burn area simply isn't getting hot enough to flash the oil off, so it doesn't burn completely. Just smolders away and makes a mess.
@jeremyj3017
5 күн бұрын
Use a HHO generator fed into your air intake, lower the fuel pump. It supposedly steam cleans from what hho Gen vehicle owners say. Use rain water
@PUBHEAD1
Жыл бұрын
Whoooohoooo, a new vid. Keep em coming
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Thanks PUB ! Will do.
@johnmcneil1681
Жыл бұрын
I’m pretty sure home heating fuel is the safest and cleanest burning use oil is a good idea, but I think you supposed to heat it up to a certain temperature to burn off something before you burn it in your heater but I don’t know my uncle used to do it a long time ago
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Yes, home heating oil and diesel burn with very little soot... when testing with these I have not had any build up at all.
@thomaskramer2266
Жыл бұрын
Motor or other lubricating oils contain Ash, 1% by weight would be quite normal unless it is low ash. This is due to addives that leave solid residues when burned. This is a chemical thing, e.g zink additives leave zinc oxide, you cannot filter that stuff out. There is no way around it, no amount of preheating or other measures will remove that ash content, you will always get buildup like that.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Yes... oils do have much more ash than diesel, and this is now becoming part of the problem. When I first started doing these tests, the deposits were black concrete like carbon deposits... I believe that a big part of the reason why this test, and a few others, have been somewhat more successful, is that I have a small leak in the burn chamber. This allows the heavier oils to escape directly to the exhaust. I have talked to a few people who work on industrial waste oil burners, and they have basically said the same thing... Lots of maintenance and you still get white ash. Right now, the heater doesn't get hot enough and so it is not only making the ash, but some carbon and lots of smoke... More heat will take care of the carbon and smoke, and then I can deal with the ash deposits. While there will always be ash in the remains of the burnt fuel, what happens with that ash is not predetermined. If it builds up in the "wrong place" then it will quickly affect the way the heater starts and runs, but there are several possible ways to deal with this ash.
@thomaskramer2266
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 I get what you are doing, but your approaches to you goal are a bit... unconventional... When you get carbon depostits at that scale it is either too much fuel or too little air. Too little air could partially be caused by the lack of seal between the motor unit an the heatexchanger/ housing and restrictions in the gas path. My heater runs always in alpine mode for better combustion, no soot buildup. This is especially important if you consider the specific gravity of lube oils- they can be up all the way to 0.9 while diesel is more in the 0.78 to 0.8 range- meaning oil contains far more stuff to burn compared to the same volume of diesel. Preheating the fuel is a nice thought, but as the original fuel tube runs for more than half a foot through the cooling air it is kind of pointless. The fuel wil be heated to case temperature anyway when approaching the case.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@thomaskramer2266 Thanks for the comment. I'm a mechanic and have worked modifying engines for years (gas engines) so I do understand mixtures a little, but there is more to it than meets the eye. As with an engine, you need to make sure that you have the right heat range spark plug or it will foul... You can run your engine so lean that it burns up and still have a fouled spark plug if you use the wrong heat range. The main issue with these heaters is the design of the burn chamber allows the area to cool off where the fuel enters. This is not a problem for diesel as it flashes at a low temp. While adding air, in theory, makes for a lean, clean, hot burn, the additional air cools off the exchanger and burn chamber too much, the oil does not vaporize and the result is a very incomplete burn. Just like having too cold of a heat range of plug, it gets fouled up. My main reasoning for heating the fuel is so that it doesn't cool the chamber off where it enters. I have used a thermocouple on the fuel line and measured the fuel temp to be about 100C. It has been suggested that I insulate the fuel line and this resulted in a 10c increase in temperature. I have had some success with modifications to the heater to keep / put heat into the burn chamber, and this has greatly increased how well it burns. Cheers.
@gmc3019
Жыл бұрын
What about a second pump wired up to run water. say the main pump runs at 5 hertz than the second water pump runs at 1 or 2 hertz to stem clean the chamber just like an engine will have a clean cylinder if the head gasket blows it might clean the same way
@Keith24GB
Жыл бұрын
Very interesting idea, and if it works would solve many people problems 😁
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Yes... I have thought of this and tried to get David McLuckie to do it on his channel, haha. There are a few challenges with this, but the main issue, as of now, is that the burn area is already running cool. While vaporizing water can clean off carbon, cooling the chamber with water would only make my current problems worse. Running on diesel, or if I can get the heater running hot enough, then this would be a neat idea. If I were to do a two pump setup, however, I would likely run diesel at 1.5hz into the "normal" area, and then run a second pump to a second burn area downstream of the diesel at 2-3 hz. Using the diesel to heat / vaporize the waste oil.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Yes... if the chamber temps could be kept up, then this would probably help.... The pump would likely fail due to corrosion, so a drip feed or different pump / setup may be necessary.
@gerryhan8818
Жыл бұрын
I don't use combustion air intake hose, so the intake closed to the exhaust flex clamp. That's is where the smoke may leak. Cover intake and exhaust with a piece of sheetmetal, so intake can suck more smoke. Also this will increase the intake air temperature for combustion. Hope it will help.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment and suggestion !
@GMCLabs
7 ай бұрын
I think its almost impossible to burn motor oil in it. The addive package in the oil is the problem. After watching enough project farm, he sent motor oil out for testing and I was surprised to find out there is actually has a lot of calcium and zinc compounds added to it. That is probably what that white residue left over is. No amount of heat is going to get rid of that.
@loweredexpectations4927
7 ай бұрын
I love project farm ! Great guy. Yeah, it is partly additives, but also from the base stock oil. Heavy oils have stuff that is removed in the process of making diesel, kerosene and all those lighter fuels. They remove this stuff for a good reason, haha. I don't want to spoil it for you, but I had strayed away from the waste oil testing for a while, and am now trying a different approach. It seems to be going really well... but I'm in the early stages of testing. Accepting that ash is going to build up is part of the new strategy.
@arkangel2487
Жыл бұрын
Your burn times seem to be really short and idk why. You also have a lot going on lol. I mix 2 gallons of diesel and about 4 gallons of used oil in a 7 gallon bucket. At first I was using a 1 micron filter sock. Now I use two, 1 micron socks. I also mix them with a paint mixer for about 5 min. With the single sock I’d get about 8-12 hours or about 1.5 gallons of fuel. Now I’m getting a full 24 hrs. I keep my pump at 5.5 and max fan speed. I wish I could upload pics but my chambers are usually FULL of crud before they burn out.
@werner.x
Жыл бұрын
The problem i see is: Do i need heating to do work despite cold conditions - or do i need another hobby.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
It think that my burn times may be cut short due to the mods that I have done to my chamber to split it open. It has 3mm removed from the chamber length, as a result. My first testing on diesel oil mix, with almost no filtering at all, and a diesel mix, I got over 40 hours... I also used to get much more crud built up in the outer part of the chamber before having to clean. I believe what is happening now is that, while it is burning better over all, the build up happens in the vaporization area and clogging this area will cause it to not start or run erratically. I have a reduced gap between the center protrusion and the shelf in the chamber, and I believe this amplifies the problem.
@TheDivergentDrummer
Жыл бұрын
Hey, I likely could repair that ECU. I'm running the same setup here and have been reverse engineering the controller.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Cool... I'm surprised at how many people are into electronics. Since I've started doing this video I have talked to a lot. I have already moved on to a new "old style" ecu that allows me to change the afr.
@DanDan-yy8sf
7 ай бұрын
OK, OK, I'm gonna shut my mouth and have you think I'm a fool in place of opening it and removing all doubt. 🤐 Would never of thought new oil would create so much ash. The acetone additive seemed to be the cleanest burn to date as I recall🤔 A hotter, larger, rounded, flashpoint / drip-point might be tried. 👍🏽🔥
@loweredexpectations4927
7 ай бұрын
I finally took my heater apart after 54 hours of run time... it was still working well.... but... I won't ruin it for you... video out soon, haha.
@lukasznowak8873
Жыл бұрын
Proper waste oil burners have heater elements helping to vaporize oil, worked on one before it was absolute beast putting out like 80kw but it also drew almost 1.5kw electric, it was going through oil like no tomorrow but output was absolutely mental, there was no need of preheating oil or anything like that...maybe its the only way to get it working correctly but still you can not avoid deposit build up from burning waste oil and Chinese heaters would have to be somehow modified for all that crap to go somewhere and be easily removed /cleaned...
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
That's funny... I have been considering putting a heating element in the burner to vaporize the fuel, haha... It would draw a lot more power, but if it vaporizes the fuel and makes it burn clean, then perhaps it would be worth it. I have considered many different ways of making the heater easier to clean and modifications that would force it to run despite build up... I'm first trying to do things that the average person could do.
@lukasznowak8873
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 you doing agreat job and you are very entertaining to watch :) just slam one of glow plugs diesel car uses they around 15 amps draw will work a treat, also if you thinking 300w electricity constant to burn something you got for free ? still going to beat gas prices and electricity if that is your goal...wondering if reprogramming controller or putting resistor in the sensor circuit to make heater think its running cooler to what it actually does would have any positive effect and help burn stubborn oil better...not sure what temperature of heat exchanger makes unit go into overheated status but surely you could run it another 50 maybe 80 degree higher in that case would be wise to move controller board into different location so it will not get fried ...i would experiment just like you with waste oil but couple things does not allow me to do it :( law side of things and fact that iam living surrounded by neighbors dont want to upset anyone with clouds of smoke haha
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@lukasznowak8873 A suppose a glow plug could work. My goal of this messing about, for now, is to try to get it to burn well while keeping it simple enough so that the average person could do it. I was thinking the same thing about allowing it to run hotter... was thinking more simplistic. A thin insulator between the heat exchanger and sensor would trick it into thinking it was cooler than it was. I'm not sure that this would work tho, as the area where it needs to get hot is in the vaporizing area of the chamber, and this temp is not at all directly related to body temperature. Yeah... I totally get that not everyone can experiment like me... I often have to shut my heater down because I don't want to disturb people... especially on nicer days when people are more likely to be outside.
@johncollinsgrove1750
Жыл бұрын
Try running new diesel engine oil. Need to look for something rated for modern dpf equipped engines. It is a low ash oil to keep from clogging up dpf filters. Mobile 1 esp oil is an ultra low ash oil. Might work better
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
From my understanding, any good, modern engine oil should be low ash. I talked to a chemist from a oil lab who indicated that burning the oil off and testing for ash was one of the quality tests. As a side note... The oil that I have been burning as waste oil so far, is mostly motorcycle oil. Some of the older waste oil that I have is in fact diesel oil that was used in gas engines.
@johncollinsgrove1750
Жыл бұрын
@loweredexpectations4927 that could be but I know that many diesel manufacturers have strict levels of ash from oil. VW is one of them and only like 3 approved oils. But all in all its kind of pointless test since new oil costs more than diesel fuel. But some reason I keep coming back to watch you show another sooted up burner. Lmao. Looking forward to the next video.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@johncollinsgrove1750 Yeah, I have no doubt that many manufacturers have high standards for low ash diesel oils. Haha... yes... The point of the test was not to see if new oil was a practical fuel, but to see if waste oil burns dirty dirty because it's waste oil or because it's oil. This test indicates to me that the problem is oil is the problem, and the waste part of it is a much smaller issue.
@77impalaforums
Жыл бұрын
How about a centrifuge and a 25 then 10 and finally a 2 micron filter system for the used oil? Other videos I saw showed a lot of gunk being removed by a centrifuge system. This might clean up the old oil enough to remove the gunk that builds up in the burn chamber.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
I think that that is probably a really good idea, and I would like to do that in the future... However, I think this video shows that most of the build up in the chamber is not from contamination of the oil, but because oil does not like to burn in these heaters. The new motor oil did not burn much or any better than the used oil. You can't get any cleaner than new oil.
@jorgruthschilling
Жыл бұрын
A larger surface of the vaporizer inside the burner tube could help burning waste oil. I think burn residues are reducing the hot surface. The typical material choice for these vaporizers is metal meshes, porous metal sponges or sintered metal powder disks. I would try fine copper meshes. Copper is a catalyst that reduces the ignition temperature. Platinum is also feasible but there's a hefty price tag on it.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
I have recently been playing with all sorts of different materials to try to cause vaporization in that area. It seems as though the engineers had a figured out pretty well with the mesh they used.
@jorgruthschilling
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 You can find a lot of inspiration in the patents of Eberspächer and Webasto. The Chinese diesel heaters we all love so much are highly cost optimised versions of more than twenty years old German designs. It is very interesting what the Chinese engineers have stripped away to reduce costs. I am currently working on my own ECU for Vevor diesel heaters. I want to have the stepless heat output control that the new Eberspächer Airtronic 3 generation has. The temperature automatic should be more precise. Hacking diesel heaters is definitely a nice thing. 😉
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@jorgruthschilling That sounds interesting. I have looked at photos of the Eberspächer and Webasto parts and noticed some interesting changes, as well. I may try building my own chamber at some point, or purchasing a new chamber and modifying it now that I have learned a few things. I have seen that some chambers have a recessed area around the vaporization area. A bulge in the combustion fan area ... I can't say for sure, but this appears to he designed to put more heat into the vaporization area and around the glow plug. I would like to get one of these and fit it to my heater.
@jorgruthschilling
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 The new Airtronic 3 burner is weighing less. Less weight heats up faster under Arctic conditions. The classic burner tube used a bottom produced of metal casting. The new one is completely manufactured by deep drawing stainless steel sheets. The glow plug is also moved into the burning tube. The separate glow plug chamber makes starting in very cold environments more difficult. Shortening the burner tube and the heat exchanger may increase the temperature of the vaporizer part of the burner. Some early bio-diesel capable diesel heaters had built in a PTC fuel pre-heater used to support the burning process.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@jorgruthschilling Thanks for the info. I was thinking that shortening the tube may raise the temp of the vaporizer part and had considered / am considering making a hole (maybe with small tube) that directs burnt gasses back to towards the vaporization chamber. I do think that preheating the fuel more is a good idea, and a dedicated heater may be a good idea as the temperature is more stable.
@easymac79
Жыл бұрын
Interesting results as always. In connection with some of the other comments I have a few thoughts: I suppose it may be the additives in the oil, not so much the contaminants that are leaving residue. Shane covered his waste oil burner compared to running a diesel heater on it and found lots of flakey residue - no stalagmites. He reported that the inner chamber was red-hot and is certain the design would only hold some improvements, none of which look promising. Someone said fiberglass sheet. The accessory packages that come with these units was what sold me on one vs. the other, the exhaust wrap being a key point. It's about 3" wide, a long roll, flexible and not terribly thick, but enough to do something. It would be super cool if VEVOR will work with you on something like a screw-on chamber or other 'mods' and accessories. I think the clamp design you have works pretty well though. I finally got my unit set up and testing. Capturing the waste heat is my goal for improvements. I think the holy grail is going to be a water/air heater hybrid design. I was thinking on the exhaust, but then it occurred to me, you could run pipes through the heat exchanger channels to make a closed loop on the water heating. This will of course sap heat from the air, but the water flow could be controlled to help prevent overheating. Also, what's this deal with water/methanol I guess injecting that can clean the burn chamber? Ima try to link a timestamped vid, but idk if that will filter. Also had me thinking again about E85. With a proper exhaust now, I'm not worried about using gasoline, you clearly arent.. Ethanol burns cooler. So in your blends, if you start to have overheat issues, maybe consider thinning with E85. Absolutely it seems impractical to let the device sniff gasoline fumes and backfire to knock stuff loose. But if in testing, you have a need to induce a backfire, perhaps using an unlit propane bottle on the intake would be safer? I think you mentioned having heard of someone using propane for faster startups, and that's another project I'd like to look at eventually - a carburetor and natural gas conversion.
@easymac79
Жыл бұрын
kzitem.info/news/bejne/tKZor3x4rKugmKA
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Cheers ! It may be the additives, or it could be that oil burning at these low temperatures just leaves a lot of crap behind. "Shane" ? I'm not sure what you mean by "inner chamber". I know that the burn tube gets VERY hot and glows red. Tests I have done (not yet released) prove that this gets to about 1000C, yet the area where the fuel goes in does not get very hot. (on mine) I have lots of fibreglass for fibreglass repairs. I have actually been using some of it for mesh and other stuff in the heater, haha. Not too sure if there is a difference between this FG and insulating stuff. Yeah... the clamp design honestly has me pretty spoiled... If it was built like this from the factory and actually had a proper sleeve over the joint, it would be top notch. I do like the idea of water heating.. it stores a lot of energy and can be moved from place to place... I would personally use the exhaust as it is otherwise waste heat... but copper pipe in the exchanger would be pretty easy. You want to make sure that it's not a sealed system so it doesn't pressurize. Water methanol is a good idea if you have too much heat in your combustion area and are trying to cool the inlet charge. Not ideal in a heater that is struggling to get the burn area hot. If I had access to E85 I would totally be using it in my blend... I think it is a much better idea than just gasoline. I would, however, keep an eye out for corrosion in the burn chamber, and have a spare fuel pump on hand... I have a feeling that E85 could be a killer on these things. Yeah... at least with propane you can't scream and spill it everywhere, like you can with gasoline, haha.
@shanehogarth6373
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 Another great video Joel. I think easymac is referring to the crud that was in the burn pot of my drip fed waste oil burner. That thing makes intense heat and still I get quite a bit of crud in the burn pot.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@shanehogarth6373 I thought he was talking about you but was confused about the "He reported the inner chamber was red-hot" I don't remember that.
@shanehogarth6373
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 Yeah so on the drip fed oil burner, I could get the inner heat exchanger (cast iron stove) visibly red, yet it still produced a whole load of similar waste to what we get on the heaters. So possibly we wil always get some when we burn wvo, I am sure the oil must have been vaporizing in that, but only of course when it actually reached that temperature.
@TheCritterWindow
Жыл бұрын
Need a fresh heater to run the new test. This one e has taken a Beating
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
YES ... this is very true. I need one for more practical tests, but also I need a new chamber as mine now has so many mods it's hard to say how a new heater would react to the same tests.
@reubenk7331
6 ай бұрын
Wow, I am pretty surprised they both looked just as bad!
@loweredexpectations4927
6 ай бұрын
Yeah, it appears as though the ash content of the oil is the main proem, and not the contaminants.
@reubenk7331
6 ай бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 That makes sense. I suppose the other thing is, we don't WANT engine oil to burn up when it is in an engine. I find it interesting either way. I would have thought for sure the new wouldn't have been as bad.
@Mwwwwwwwwe
Жыл бұрын
Guessing used motor oil burns better because it has undergone partial pyrolysis/ decomposition- so less heat is needed to burn it. BTW Saw someone use a unlit propane torch in the air intake to prime his cold CDH...may be safer than half a litre of petrol 😅🤣
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
HAHA... propane scares me more than gas, but I guess there's no chance of spilling it when you jump.... I think you are probably right. The oil is already partly broken down and flashes off more easily.
@cowboy6591
Жыл бұрын
It would be interesting to know if it's "Detergent" oil or "Non-detergent". It would make a difference. That might be the scuz that keeps building up.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Yeah... It would be interesting to try a compressor oil without any additives or something like that. Perhaps a vacuum pump oil. A lot of the oil that I burn is basic SAE 30 lawnmower oil, but some if it is a higher end Motul semi synthetic.
@thedavesofourlives1
Жыл бұрын
definitely. and any synth blend will not burn (boiling point is way higher than mineral oil)
@nerys71
Жыл бұрын
I've got a hunch that your thermistor probe is reading incorrectly I think you're reading more outside that chamber than inside that chamber and that's why the temperature goes up when you slow the unit down As you slow the unit down and push less air through the unit not as much of the heat get sapped away outside the chamber and so you're getting closer to what the temperature is inside the chamber I think you're going to need to sacrifice another probe Drill a tiny hole where you want that probe to be Stick that probe through the hole so that it's actually inside the burn chamber and then JB weld that I suspect you're reading outside the chamber in the heat exchanger area which is going to read a whole lot cooler
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment. I can see how you would come to that conclusion about the sensor not working properly... , but it is. I know this for a few reasons. At startup, the temp always reads the same (or very close to) the same as the heat exchanger body. When sitting over night it reads room temperature. It also heats up when the heater is turned on and often levels out close to the exchanger temperature. I have also tested the sensor outside of the heater a few times and verified that it is accurate within a few decrease C. The burn chamber heats up when shut down because there is less air flow cooling the chamber, and residual fuel continues to burn off. I should have pointed out a few things about the sensor on the outside of the chamber. 1. I'm not trying / expecting to get a 100% accurate temperature of the burn area, just trying to get reference numbers so I know when it's hotter or colder, so I can compare results. 2. I don't think your thoughts about the air cooling the sensor are correct. JB weld is fairly conductive and I made sure to have the sensor in direct contact with the chamber. The coupling of heat between the sensor and chamber would be pretty accurate and the cooling effect on the JB welding would be fairly small, I believe. I have considered drilling a small hole and doing it they way you stated. The main reason why I didn't' do this is because I think it would provide less accurate information. I don't want to know what temperature the flame is, or if there is combustion, I want to know how hot the surface is where the oil is making contact. If I had several probes, and had one that was rated for very high temperatures, I would like to do this as well, but for now what I have is giving me the information I want.
@nerys71
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 READING correctly not working correctly I have no doubt its working correctly. if you say its fine that's good enough for me I assume you have a lot more experience with this than I do :-) I sure don't have any 🙂
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@nerys71 I also have the unfair advantage of being from the future and have experienced lots of other tests using these sensors, haha. Hopefully what I said all makes sense in upcoming videos.
@toddstanley7804
Жыл бұрын
Try using an exchanger on the exhaust to preheat the intake combustion air
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Hey... thanks for the comment. I have a video where I use the hot outlet air and fed it into the inlet... It seemed to work okay, but it got so not that it overheated my motor...
@SR-gt350
Жыл бұрын
Could you add a 1/8" brake line into the burn chamber to spray water in after 12hrs of waste oil use to see if it would remove some of the carbon build up while shut down.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
I have had a few people suggest this, and have actually considered it myself, and tried putting water in the fuel line and a few other silly experiments. The main issue as of now is that the area where it gets clogged up is not getting hot enough. Ideally, if you were going to use this method, you would want a minimum of 250 - 300 C and inject water several times over the period of an hour. If you just injected while shutting down this would cause the chamber to rust, but also the carbon that was released would not he carried away.
@torrielandsman4625
Жыл бұрын
I have a older version of your heater and I can use code 1688 to set parameters for pump rate and fan speed I replaced my pump with a webasto pump and had to turn the pump down to 0.7 from 1.7 to get it to work properly Maybe you could get a older controller for the versatility
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
I have ordered and received my new ecu and controller last week... currently testing with it, though those videos may be a while before they are released. Cheers.
@warrenhodges8214
Жыл бұрын
Try 3 liters used oil 1 liter acetone. Works in regular oil furnace.
@werner.x
Жыл бұрын
Acetone is 6 euro/l at least here in Germany. Diesel right now is back to 1.70,- euro. How much money and workhours should we put into heating ?
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
As a method of cleaning out ash, or as a fuel ?
@warrenhodges8214
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 fuel
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@warrenhodges8214 That's interesting, but the cost of acetone where I am is about $10 a litre, so it's costly even for testing. I'm guessing you can get it cheaper in bulk, but still can't see it being cost effective compared to diesel.
@warrenhodges8214
Жыл бұрын
@Lowered Expectations Not cheap, but it could show that a different chemical mixed with oil might work.
@JoshuaWarfieldJwarf
10 ай бұрын
Try mixing e85 instead of gas with the waste oil
@loweredexpectations4927
10 ай бұрын
E85 is really hard to get where I am... no places within a few hours, as far as I can tell. I have tried a few tests with methanol ... it should be about the same, but I would like to do more testing.
@lukasznowak8873
Жыл бұрын
I have done similar thing with adding some propane into intake 🤣 it backfired from exhaust i almost shit my pants not gonna lie and heater flamed out yet pump was still ticking what is slightly worry but i guess eventually it would have went to E08 error and pump would disabled itself? Didnt wait to check if that would have been the case just turned it off and let glow plug burn excessive fuel 🤣propane works but you just cant guess the right dose haha
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
🤣... I've put propane in there but never had a backfire from it... oddly. LOL... yes, it would have eventually sensed the drop in temp and shut off, but it would have flooded really badly.
@jimjohnson6615
Жыл бұрын
i wonder if 2 cycle would burn alot better since its designed to burn
@jimjohnson6615
Жыл бұрын
mixed with your current fuel
@jonholaday2733
Жыл бұрын
I'm fairly certain ot would, however whats the point when its typically more expensive than just running straight diesel or heater oil. Imo this week s just a pointless endeavour to try to make these units burn anything but diesel. They make specific waste oil heaters.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Yes... I have also wondered that as well. I was talking to someone about it yesterday. It is designed to burn cleaner, but I'm not sure at what temperature it is designed to burn.
@jimjohnson6615
Жыл бұрын
@@jonholaday2733 i thought if it was in the mix it may help it burn better is all. if you re read it you may notice it
@gutrali
Жыл бұрын
Can you show us your priming process? I'm wondering if you invariably inject unburnt fuel into the chamber while priming which then bubbles away and turns into this coke you're finding. Also, why not embrace that process? Drill a hole directly downward through the flame chamber, before the shelf. This allows the "tar" to drip down in the exhaust, and then drill a hole in the exhaust pipe at the lowest part so the goo can drop out into a catch container. At least then you keep from fouling it as often, requiring you to take it apart. Although I can see this being a fire hazard. Make sure all your smoke detectors are working. Also, where are your fire extinguishers? I hope you earn enough from KZitem eventually (big IF, I know), to buy one of those auto extinguisher fire balls, that explode when they are heated enough. Would be a good safety investment.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
The priming process takes a while and has to be viewed from under the shelf due to my preheating set up. The priming process is done fairly accurately, and also done on diesel, so there is not fouling, even if there is WAY too much of it at first. I have talked to people about draining off the "tar". It may or may not actually work as a long term solution. I have a feeling that start up and shut down would cause any drain to plug up. The main issue that I have with this process is that it produces a significant amount of smoke as the tar passes into the exhaust. I'm sure there is a way to engineer around this... like having a separate drain that doesn't use the exhaust, but I am looking for a more elegant solution. I have fire extinguishers ... one in my garage and one in my truck. Haha... those extinguisher balls would be cool !
@chuckb.3324
Жыл бұрын
Not seeing a great difference on the clinkers. That water in the chamber thing might be best avoided. There is a number. 1600. One drop makes 1600 drops of steam. I probably should not mention that those big high pressure boilers have a several megaton potential yield. Like one at a papermill or a powerplant. Can you use the lazer beam to check exhaust gas temps?? Like if you shot it straight into the pipe.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Yea, the expansion rate of water is intense. I'm fairly certain this is why my "oil" boils in my fuel line when preheated. I can't decide if that's a bad thing or not. I could test the exhaust pipe temp with the infrared thermometer, but not the gas temp.
@raymondj8768
Жыл бұрын
Alrite your growin buddy !
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
I'm a big boy now 🤣. jk... Yup !
@raymondj8768
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 hahahahaahaha
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@raymondj8768 1620 today !
@Keith24GB
Жыл бұрын
Great stuff yet again. Just wondering if you were pre-heating the last batch off fuel mix with new oil, vs old oil ? I like the idea off drilling holes into the little shelf inside the burn chamber, did you notice any difference?
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the commnet. Yes, I was preheating with both tests. I think the holes in the shelf may have caused a slight improvement. Mainly in how the crud gathers. My chamber has approx 3mm removed out of it (unfortunately) in the burn area length from when I cut it in half. At this point, I really should have a new chamber (several new chambers) and start over knowing what I know. The missing 3mm makes the shelf sit closer to the center protrusion and I'm not sure what that effect that has on things, if anything.
@stevencollins8037
Жыл бұрын
Why don’t you mix the waste oil with kerosene it’s thinner and burns cleaner then diesel half/half
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
This has been suggested several times. The problem is, where I live, the cost of kerosene is more than twice the price of diesel and makes it silly expensive. $4/L ... So even if I mix it with it with waste oil at 50/50, it cost more than burning clean diesel.
@jonholaday2733
Жыл бұрын
Coming from a rotary engine background, synthetic motor oil is not made to burn, and when it does it leaves tons of deposits. It has a much higher flash point and has additives to increase lubrication. After watching a few of your videos and running my own vevor heater with a mild waste oil blend, I won't be putting anything but diesel or heater oil through my unit.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Haha... that is a good idea. Also, big fan of the rotary engine. Had one in my basement growing up as a child.. A single cyl from a snowmobile or motorcycle... I forget. The problem with "burning" quality oils / synthetic oils is that they require so much more temp to burn. IF you can achieve a high enough temperature that the oil burns completely, then they generally burn leaving less ash behind, but in many cases, they only partially burn because they don't reach high enough temperatures.
@markusgarvey
8 ай бұрын
I think the problem is with the circuit board programming.
@loweredexpectations4927
8 ай бұрын
The problem with the ash build up ?
@kirkkopka8871
Жыл бұрын
I would like to know more about that X2 with a triple in it .... Rad dudes x brace .💪👊 😲😲
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Haha... an X2 fan ? I have lots of videos about that ski on my other channel... Link in the description. That's a custom made carbon fibre x brace... I've also made a carbon fibre bed plate and a bunch of other cool bits. The Joel Arseneault KZitem channel where I do mostly jetski stuff that is much more edited. kzitem.info/rock/Se-AVEea-Xtc2D8yfS4kdQ
@kirkkopka8871
Жыл бұрын
Subscribed !!! Thanks bro 💪👊
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@kirkkopka8871 Awesome ! Thanks. I've potentially got some really cool projects on the go... funds just aren't there at the moment.
@kirkkopka8871
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 The story of our lives ..... Lol Keep it up chief !!
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@kirkkopka8871 Yup... money and time.
@nikitamckeever5403
Жыл бұрын
Very interesting . A lot of messing about though . Loved the blowback 😂 . Have you tried bio diesel ( home made of course ) . Might be alternative sort of free fuel , used vegetable oil to make bio diesel . I think I’ll stick to simple white diesel for mine , seems to work great 😂
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Haha... yes... it's a good thing I like messing about or I would have gone crazy a long time ago. I haven't tried biodiesel... I would love to try different alternatives, but for now I am using a supply of waste oil that I have from being a small engine mechanic... otherwise, I would have to dispose of it. Haha... yes... stick to what works and let me do the stupid stuff ! I have a feeling that "proper" biodiesel would work fine as you remove all the nasty stuff.
@nikitamckeever5403
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 it does keep your viewers entertained , especially the blowbacks and flamethrower exhausts . It’s like an old tv serial - stay tuned for next weeks exciting episode of 😂👏🤞💥🙈
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@nikitamckeever5403 HAHA... yeah, everyone just waiting / expecting me to burn my garage down or blow myself up.
@nikitamckeever5403
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 🤞 you don’t have a serious mishap
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@nikitamckeever5403 🤟
@dLikesDDs
14 күн бұрын
mine seems to run too rich. if i restrict the fuel line while on max setting it stops the black haze out the exhaust. vevor 8000kw heater, it has a .22ml dosing pump, i have a .16 pump on order, if that dont work i will put a needle valve inline between pump and heater to control it better.
@loweredexpectations4927
6 күн бұрын
If you are burning clean diesel, and you are still having issues, this could be a blockage in the exhaust or inlet. If the pump is actually a .22ml pump and is working properly, that is what should be on your heater. A haze out the exhaust may indicate it is running rich, but what it really means is incomplete combustion. If the chamber or exhaust gets gummed up, this can happen.
@dLikesDDs
3 күн бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 should note this was since it was new, even after cleaning the burn chamber and later replacing it completely. as for the .16ml pump, its running great now. its been running nonstop for 3 days so far so only time will tell. intake and exhaust is free flowing. i will pull it apart on the weekend to inspect but its running much better. the burn chamber sits at 188-190 degrees
@dLikesDDs
3 күн бұрын
Also burning clean but 5 year old diesel that's been sitting in an ibc tote. My 6.0 powerstroke ran the same fuel no issue
@loweredexpectations4927
2 күн бұрын
@@dLikesDDs That's interesting. Are you at a particularly high elevation ?
@loweredexpectations4927
2 күн бұрын
@@dLikesDDs Oh... Hmmmm.
@oojimmyflip
Жыл бұрын
maybe the wste oil is synthetic and not designed to burn have you tried sticking to mineral based oil instead? it might be useful to find a temperature tolerance chart online for the make of oil you just used or at least a specification sheet to give you some idea of the temperature tolerances of that make of oil. it is interesting to see the crystaline structures built up in the burn chamber almost as though the oil is being sprayed through the main burning head into the chamber and then rapidly cooling to form crystals of ash, I think this is caused by a cold burn chamber and without pre-heating the burn chamber your going to keep having the same problems, some people in the UK burn kersoene in these heaters very successfully Have you tried a 50/50 mix of kersoene and waste oil? Kersoene is slightly thinner than diesel. from what I understabd Kerosene burns a little hotter than diesel and may be a better carrier for the waste oil.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment. Most of the oil that I have is from oil changes that I have done and redone and is probably a mix of semi synthetic and conventional. The two oils are not that different in flash point, 200C vs 250C at the high end... I plan on doing some testing of my own with cooking oil on my stove I use for powder coating to see what I'm working with. I assume that these patterns being created are from partially burnt oil being blown out of the burn chamber and getting snagged...Airborne particles attaching to the reduction ring, then particles attach to those particles and so on, until you have a giant formation. I have been experimenting with ways to get / keep heat in the burn chamber and that does seem to be the answer, tho it is not an easy task... Kerosene is a great fuel, but here I am it is over twice the price of diesel, so even at 50/50 it would cost the same as burning pure diesel. I have tried some Varsol and oil (similar to Kerosene) and the heater seemed to work well for longer, but I only used it because I had some as it too is much much more than diesel.
@theusconstitution1776
Жыл бұрын
❤️🔥🇺🇸HOW ABOUT LINING THE COMBUSTION AREA WITH A PIECE OF LIGHT WEIGHT STAINLESS STEEL? Will get wicked hot wicked fast and maintain a hot temperature for that oil to fry off on? When you burn waste oil or even fresh motor oil is it preheated? I have one of these heaters coming and I plan to play with it a little bit too but I have 35 years experience in the oil and gas heating industry now that I am retired I’m looking forward to playing❤️🔥🇺🇸
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment. I have tried a few things like that and will be posting videos about it in the future... soon I hope. Yes, I preheat the oil with a metal tube in the exchanger. The oil gets up to about 100C. A piece of 3/16 automotive brake line is what I used.
@kestutiszelnys2770
Жыл бұрын
if somehow you could introduce citric acid in to your motor oil or spray citric acid/water mix in to intake there cruds should become calcium citrate and melt away, im not a chemist, but it would be interesting to see if my theory true. and you can try to mix this pieces you extracting whit boiling water/citric acid mixture to find out if its calcium. but it should be, because its most common additive in motor oil
@cheetor5923
Жыл бұрын
Now that's an idea I'm gonna try. I wanted to experiment so I bought my heater with a pack of extra combustion chamber units. I got two coated in high performance exhaust coatings to try and keep heat inside. I'm also testing using JSAO FD grade(Full synthetic. "engine cleaning" grade 2-stroke oil at 100:1 in the fuel). From my experience in working on 2-strokes, a very high quality oil can clean them out really well. But I don't have any data yet until I finish moving house.
@kestutiszelnys2770
Жыл бұрын
@@cheetor5923 keep in mind that citric acid is insoluble in oils, you can make water mixture, but then you need good emulsifier to mix with oil
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Interesting... I wonder a few things. How heat would affect this process and how this process would affect the heat... Meaning, will citric acid become oxidized / consumed and become ineffective and would a citric acid water solution in sufficient quantities to be effective cool the chamber to the point where it reduced burn efficiency.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Cool. One thing that I have found is that, while quality oils burn with much less ash / clean... they also take much more temperature to burn, so the end result (in my heater) is a dirtier burn than low quality oil. In order to get the lower ash burn, you actually need to burn all the oil. I have been considering trying 2 cycle oil as well, but it is quite costly and would only be a cool experiment, not practical.
@kestutiszelnys2770
Жыл бұрын
watter would not affect negatively as long as it would be mixed with oil (it woukd initiate more compleate burn). if it start seperate than its f**ked. kzitem.info/news/bejne/yaOqyWqQZquagKQ
@MrSector9
Жыл бұрын
Well we already know you do not care if you have eyebrows, here is just more proof.
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Haha... Yeah... "who needs em"
@Driver0808657
Жыл бұрын
Question, are you mixing in your fuel tank?? I always mix in a separate pail, stir, let sit overnight and then pour in my fuel tank. I find mixing with much thinner fluids allows heavier particles and suspended water to settle
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
I always mix in a separate container, shake it up really well and then pour into the tank as needed.
@Driver0808657
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 I also did some digging on that blue controller, it seems you can control pump Hz (fuel ratio) on it through the programming menu with the 1688 code just like the black controller. Based on the smoke you're getting I would guess it's far too rich?? I turned my default 5.5hz max down to 4 and the temperature output was significantly lower so it does seem significant You can also run in manual/Hz mode where you select pump Hz and it matches fan to fuel amount, or in auto/temperature mode and the unit scales both fan and pump Hz on it's own as needed. Which are you using? Loving your content!
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@Driver0808657 There are actually two different blue controllers. The one that you can change has red digits, mine has blue or green digits. I have received my new ecu and controller and have been doing some testing. It is helpful to have control over ratio. The issue shown in this video still stands true though. The more air flow, the more cooling at the entrance of the chamber. This cools off the area where the fuel needs to flash off. With diesel, this is not a problem as the flash point is so low. Thanks for your support !
@plainandsimple1
9 ай бұрын
If you look at a conventional bullet style diesel heater its got a baffle at the end of the burn chamber thats shaped like a cone. what if you placed one of those in at the end of the burn chamber to help keep heat in? with enough of a gap to obviously allow some heat and air out to the heat exchanger/ still allow flow?
@loweredexpectations4927
9 ай бұрын
That may help some. I have found the environment inside of the chamber to be extremely unforgiving to most materials, eroding away at stainless and even tungsten carbide, destroying mild steel in minutes and melting copper and aluminum. These heaters are also very sensitive to air flow, so it takes a lot of tinkering to be able to get it to run with any added restrictions in the chamber.
@plainandsimple1
9 ай бұрын
@loweredexpectations4927 yeah I saw that anything you put in there seemed to get absolutely slagged. On episode 30 now lol
@plainandsimple1
9 ай бұрын
Also, have you just tried running it at heat level 3 for an extended period of time? It seems that during your tests the burn chamber was nice and hot enough to vaporize the mix. And only had issues when you cranked it all the way up. Any thoughts or advice?
@loweredexpectations4927
9 ай бұрын
@@plainandsimple1 You're on a mission, plowing through these videos, haha.
@loweredexpectations4927
9 ай бұрын
@@plainandsimple1 I have tried running it on setting 3, yes. It was hard to document everything, as there was so much happening. Typically, what I would do is get it running as hot as I could, and then try to change the settings on the heater ot keep it in the "sweet spot" For many many tests, I would have it running extremely well, no smoke, lots of heat and lots of heat staying in the burn chamber. Then I would come back 2-3 hours later and it would be total chaos ! From all of my testing, what appears to be happening is that I was able to get the oil to burn pretty clean, but oil (even brand new unused oil) leaves behind deposits when it burns. These deposits build up over time and eventually cause the heater to start working like crap. I have taken the heater apart a few times when it was still working well, and it clearly had a build up of the white ash... One of my untested ideas (as of now) is to made a device (auger or scraper) that slowly rotates and cleans the burn area so that the crud is evacuated.
@YouThinkAboutThis
Жыл бұрын
What if you could control the glow plug independently? Possibly on a timer, pulsed or non stop?
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
I have thought of that, and it has been mentioned by another person... It is an interesting idea. I'm not sure that the ECU would allow me to do that. The ecu needs to see a working plug for it to start up and shut down properly, so it would have to remain connected to the ecu. To feed power to it afterwards it may be possible to use a large diode so that it doesn't feed back to the ECU, but I'm not 100% sure. I could / should probably try this before trying my other ideas, as this would likely be easier. I have been considering making a heating coil out of nichrome wire and placing it in the area where the fuel runs in.
@SR-gt350
Жыл бұрын
How about 50/50 trans fluid/diesel
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
I would like to try it. I have seen a few videos of others trying it and they did not have success.
@Dirt-Diggler
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 i read a paper from mercedes where they added ATF to diesel fuel whilst attempting a round the world drive to promote Merc diesels, according to the paper ATF was added to negate poor fuel lubrication in poorer countries so Merc obv didn't see an issue burning it. I know from tests on older NON common rail diesels the ATF works just as well as 2stroke oil to quieten down noisy fuel pumps and generally made for smoother running. So IME ATF burns clean and completely when used up to 10% mix, i never went higher in testing as it was my work truck and i didn't have an endless free supply of it but it " may" be a better option than motor oil 🤔
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@Dirt-Diggler Very cool...
@descent8275
Жыл бұрын
more heat = more air and fuel? 😄
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Haha... yes... in theory this is correct. The catch is that the more fuel and air need to actually mix, the fuel needs to vaporize to burn. In my case, the "more air" is cooling the area that vaporizes the fuel. The fuel doesn't vaporize, so it doesn't burn, it just smolders. If we can get the fuel hot enough to flash off / vaporize, then it will mix with the air, burn and create more heat.
@gutrali
Жыл бұрын
Protip: skip to @2:49 to bypass safety warnings and affiliate babble
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Yeah... See... that's a built in safety mechanism. If you're too stupid to know how to skip ahead, then you need to hear the safety warning 🤣 ... and for those who already know my affiliate babble, you know to skip ahead... For those unsuspecting chumps who don't know... well... now they know.
@prleyii
Жыл бұрын
Just a thought. Could you do an extended burn on the mid range say 3.6 Hz. Also check out Vortex's (www.youtube.com/@Vortecks) channel and attempt to tune the heater some in particular this post: kzitem.info/news/bejne/tKN5v4WrbmWmoKA
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment. My controller did not have this tunability, but I recently got a new controller and ecu, so I will be testing with different pump hz. Thanks.
@robingroeneveld4169
Жыл бұрын
You could use kerosene as a thinner for the oil. In this clip, it works really well with waste vegetable oil (30% kero mix) kzitem.info/news/bejne/laqfuXl9iGihjH4
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment. Kerosene, where I live, is twice the price of diesel at $4/L . This makes it more cost effective to pure diesel than a WVO kerosene mix.
@kestutiszelnys2770
Жыл бұрын
CALCIUM
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
Hmmmm.... and how do you test to see if it is calcium.
@kestutiszelnys2770
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 you already made test, metals burn with different color
@loweredexpectations4927
Жыл бұрын
@@kestutiszelnys2770 Oh... I see... so when I heated it with the propane the color of the flame indicated it was calcium ?
@kestutiszelnys2770
Жыл бұрын
@@loweredexpectations4927 i looked quickly for reference video in yt kzitem.info/news/bejne/mX-w2XiLa56mpmU
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