Camino Mozarabe, Day Four
Antequera to Villanueva de Algaidas,
Andalusia, Southern Spain
We had previously walked the first 3 stages of the Camino Mozarabe from Malaga to Antequera, before returning to Malaga by bus in November 2022. We were now returning to Antequera to continue the walk, hoping to arrive at the beautiful Cathedral in Cordoba 6 days later. We had booked most of the accommodation 4 weeks in advance on Bookings.com and one on a direct phone call (more later).
Today’s walk is from Antequera to Villanueva de Algaidas, a distance of 16 miles/24 km with an elevation of 450m. We caught the 7.45am Alsa bus from Central Malaga €7 each having booked it on-line in advance. We arrived at the bus station in Antequera at 8.45am, walking through the town for 0.5 mile to the start at the Church of Santiago. We called into Cafe Machua next door, €5.60 for 2 toasts and coffees
Leaving the café at 9.30am, we followed the arrows down the side of the church, along Belen Street, passing the Gate of Granada. We took photos of information boards about the walk, with lovely views over the town. Be careful to turn left just before the Repsol garage, passing the cemetery, following the shells on the floor, over the roundabout, then left down a lane out of the town. There is a marker post of 1,174km to Santiago, one of many we would see along the way. We passed through pretty groves of olive trees, and ploughed fields, crossing a small road (10.15am). At 10.50am we went over a small river, then under the motorway. (4.20 miles covered).
The mostly obvious, and in parts cobbled, track heads slightly uphill for 3km to Cartaojal, (7.8 miles, 3 hours, 147m ascent). There are views back to the Torcal hills, Antequera and the Pena de Los Enamorados, (lovers rock) which looks like a face of a person lying down. Arriving in the small town of Cartaojal, we stopped at 12.30am at Casa Caro bar lucky to find it open. We ate more tomatoes on toast and coffee (€5.00), not wishing to wait until 1pm for the main menu to be served.
Cartaojal is a quiet town, based on agriculture with a population of 1200, many of whom were out and about. The streets are lined with beautiful orange trees, which were in every town that we visited, apparently to provide shade in the streets. The oranges are bitter and are collected and made into marmalade.
Leaving the cafe at 1pm, we continued to the end of the town, then turned right up a road. We passed large villas, with views to olive groves and acres of new solar panels following the signposted road, then along a red soil track, again going gradually uphill. After 12 miles (2.40pm), we reached the top of a pass, passing wind turbines with great views ahead to mountains on the horizon.
To the left are some ruined houses, and to the right there is a cement factory. There are 2 large rock pillars which have been described as being Roman milestones. However, we were not quite convinced that we had found them and thought a plaque could have been helpful.
We arrived in Villanueva de Algaidas at 4.20pm, the accommodation that we had phoned in advance was shut-with no notification as to whether it would open, we phoned them and received no answer. We were fortunate that Hostel Algaidas (bookings.com) opened just for us, and we were very pleased to arrive before more rain came in. There are a couple of supermarkets in the town, where we bought some food for the next day. We ate chicken and chips at Kebab Turco, as none of the bars was serving food until after 8pm.
It was a cold January day, but a lovely day of walking, with great views on well signed paths, quiet roads following the GR245, across wide open fields, olive groves, both old and new. It was nice to have a lunch stop halfway in Cartaojal. The path was well signed with yellow arrows, and red and white signs. We were looking forward to another great day. The path was very quiet-a complete contrast to bustling Malaga with the Christmas light show, which we had visited the previous night.
On our previous trip to Antequera we had visited churches, the castle and surrounds, and the megalithic monument site. All of which we really enjoyed.
Distance 16 miles (26 km)
Duration of Walk 7 Hours 35 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 1500 feet (457m)
Pace 28 min a mile
Websites used
/ 100057594063613 breakfast in Antequera
en.wikipedia.o... Lovers Rock
turismo.antequ... lunch in Cartaojal
booking.com Villanueva de Algaidas
Негізгі бет Camino Mozarabe, Stage 4 - Antequera to Villanueva de Algaidas 26km hike with 457 m of ascent
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