If you found value in this video - please consider being a supporter and liking this so that it may get out to more people :)
@Syncere20
Жыл бұрын
Very nice system and good video.
@jamesalles139
Жыл бұрын
thank you for the diagram
@zakandfal
10 ай бұрын
You are welcome! Hope it helps :)
@robertdillon9989
Жыл бұрын
Nice job !
@zakandfal
Жыл бұрын
Thank you Robert!!
@jamiewise2432
11 сағат бұрын
What size ring terminals did you use for the main wiring of the gorund, neutral, live wiring
@williamf8257
Жыл бұрын
The wires you have running from your DC to DC charger to the Lynx Distributor are much smaller than the 4/0 wires from the inverter to the Lynx Distributor. Tthe Renogy diagram shows 4 AWG wire size, so you got it right, just your audio track states 4/0 wire.
@zakandfal
Жыл бұрын
Thank you for the clarification here. We try our best to be as detailed as possible, but sometimes we make mistakes editing :)
@michaelcarman4875
11 ай бұрын
i don't have a lynx thingy so where do i put my on/off kill switch? please?
@madeleinehughes4757
Жыл бұрын
Great video! How did you handle grounding? Did you run a grounding cable from the Lynx to the chassis? Where did you ground the inverter to?
@zakandfal
10 ай бұрын
I realize this is a bit late, and may no longer be needed for you but I hope this reply helps someone else. The Inverter was grounded to the chasis. You should see it in our diagram.
@kahiwalanimiller9370
Жыл бұрын
Is there a list of what you got for the distribution panel? What kind fo Breakers did you use and why?
@zakandfal
Жыл бұрын
Hi! So, we are definitely not electricians, and honestly, I don't really remember why we chose what we did but if you can message us on @zakandfal on instagram, I can send you the two photos of what we have. They have worked for us!
@1knightinbangkok946
Жыл бұрын
Both Positive and Negative wires coming from the solar panels should have a dual isolator switch, not just the Positive.
@fallonjung176
Жыл бұрын
Interesting! We didn’t know that. Out of curiosity, can you explain why? You’d be helping us as well as anyone else who comes along too! Thanks so much! :)
@1knightinbangkok946
Жыл бұрын
Sure. In America, and I'm sure many other countries around the world, you need to disconnect both +ve and -ve wires. National Electric Code 2020 Article 690.13 states this... Also, the isolator switch you are using may not be rated high enough for the voltage.
@WizzRacing
Жыл бұрын
I would toss the NOCO.. I had two melt the wires to the point it melted the connectors. So big Fire Hazard.... I bought a Renogy Inverter\Charger\Transfer Switch..That is rated for 75 amps on Shore Power.. Problem solved...
@zakandfal
10 ай бұрын
Good to know, thank you!
@1knightinbangkok946
Жыл бұрын
Also, if you are not qualified electricians or auto electricians, you should be warning viewers of this and that your videos are for information only. And that they should seek professional advice... Inverters and solar panels can be deadly.
@zakandfal
Жыл бұрын
Completely agree - we do mention this in the video but another reminder won't hurt. Pinning your comment.
@4philipp
Жыл бұрын
Good video. It’s a good sized electrical system. Lots of connections. I’m currently working on my own design and it’s very similar. I’m sure you followed manufacturer recommendations on wire and fuse sizing. It’s interesting though that the dcdc converter has 4awg wire with a 80a fuse but your dc distribution panel uses 6awg wire and a 100a fuse. I expected the wiring to be reverse or both being 4awg, which is what I’ll be doing in my system. Took me a moment to realize your distribution panel serves both ac and dc, so the panel has two separate inputs. Here are the things that are slightly different in my system. Dcdc converter: mine is a newer model that also handles up to 600 watt of solar input. This in turn allows for trickle charging of the starter battery. But the setup is otherwise the same. MPPT: also a larger model, 60amp. Allows up to 800 watt solar on a 12v system. Also use a switch, but mine is a special PV switch for 2 strings with Arc protect. Inverter: only a 2000 watt inverter. I felt that for a larger inverter I’d put too much strain on the batteries, which only have a 300a output in your configuration. With up to 250a load coming from 3000 watt inverter and 100amp from dc, you have the potential to push the limit. My 2000 watt inverter is only rated at 167amp, so I’m staying below battery ability. Also, I don’t have a wired AC panel. I’m using a single outlet from the inverter to connect a surge protector power strip. While this might sound like I can use too much power, I also have a Kill-a-watt plugged in and can monitor all appliance draw from the inverter. Stay below 1800 watt, and I’m golden. However, the only items I will need the inverter for are a laptop (150 watt), rice cooker (200 watt), sous vide stick (750 watt), kettle (1500 watt), induction cooktop (1800 watt). I’ll never use them all at the same time. Dc panel: I use a BlueSea dc panel with two circuits. It’s supposed to be one permanent and one switched. But just in case, I’ll be putting a switch into both. It’s good for 12 appliances, that should be plenty. And my dc fridge will bypass the panel altogether. However, I will have it all connected to a Victron low voltage disconnect. It’s rated at 100amp and protects me from running the batteries down by accident. The inverter is only turned in when needed but dc is always on. Busbar: not using a Lynx, just two old fashioned BlueSea 600amp bus bars. Of course my bus bars will look more messy because I need to add fuses to it. That aside, connections look the same as your system. Battery: I’ll be switching from 3x 100amp to 2x 200amp batteries. This increases overall capacity, increases output from 300 to 400amp and reduced battery cables by one set. And I could still add 2 more batteries without makes a total mess of my system. And now I could comfortably go with a 3000 or even 4000 watt inverter (not going to). So our systems are very similar. Most components are the same. I’m using a mix of renogy and Victron, BlueSea, Ancor and Windynation and batteries from Ampere Time. Good luck with your system and all the best for VanLife.
@4philipp
Жыл бұрын
P.S. gotta steal that battery terminal fuse. Totally missed that in my planning.
@4philipp
Жыл бұрын
P.S.2. Be aware that the outlet extension you selected for your inverter is only rated at 12amp or 1440 watt. Thats total for all outlets together. That’s less than a standard home outlet which should be rated at 15/20amp. Should be fine for most appliances though.
@4philipp
Жыл бұрын
P.S.3. If it was not for the dcdc converter, I would have set my system up as 24v. That would reduce cable and fuse sizes. But it would add require a dc converter bring that 24v down to 12v so all my 12 volt appliances can run on it.
@zakandfal
Жыл бұрын
Yes, does seem like we have similar systems! Regarding the DC to DC vs Dist. Panel Wiring and fuses, we followed manufacturer for both, but Renogy has changed quite a bit even in the time that we've had it (just about a year)... So far, things have worked ok though. Glad you're going with a slightly larger system. I wish we had 400 AH battery life.
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