How do you feel about board climbing vs gym climbing?
@SelcraigClimbs
3 күн бұрын
I love all forms of bouldering but it gets to a point where you can't fully test your upper limit in a gym because multi-month projects are just not possible depending on setting schedules. Boards and outdoors are where the true limit testpieces (with consensus grades) are in my opinion. This of course is highly dependent on one's current ability of course
@SelcraigClimbs
3 күн бұрын
And boards are funky, depends on the board in terms of its sandbaggy-ness. I find the American boards I've been on - tension and kilter, are 1-2 grades softer than the moonboard. Obviously again this is just anecdotal but I flash v8 on kilter and the tb2 but v6 takes multiple attempts on moonboard usually
@uncleiso
3 күн бұрын
I've only tried the TB2 but I've heard the moon board is definitely the hardest of the bunch, which kind of emphasizes your last point and why I think board grading is its own category and might not be universal to all forms of climbing. I also agree that for super strong climbers, gym climbing becomes quite limiting and is why a lot of pros say they practice primarily on boards or spray walls or have to travel for their training. From my time working on the board and comparing it to gym climbing, I think that there is a huge barrier for most climbers to test themselves on a board because of accessibility or even intimidation. Ultimately I think it's just different
@pierremilot8117
2 күн бұрын
@@uncleiso Having climbed on all of the popular boards I think it does depend on the gym and how the board gets treated. Comparing brand new boards, I think Kilter is 2-3 grades softer than most boards, then moon 2016 and tb2 are similar with moon 2016 probably being slightly stiffer, then tb1 is maybe a full grade or two stiffer than tb2. I do believe that for v10+ climbers most gyms don't accomodate and it's harder to get better on gym sets, but below that I think if the setting is decent then gym climbs are one of the best ways to aquire 3D movement. Boards are quite specific and I don't think they relate to outdoor climbing as much as some people think they do.
@uncleiso
Күн бұрын
This is a great take
@liamforsberg2409
2 күн бұрын
Real quality video! Keep up the work. Love how you really walk through the process of figuring out the climb. Def earned a sub!
@uncleiso
Күн бұрын
Much love!
@Whueso
2 күн бұрын
Alright Movement Hampden. Recognize. Used to be my home gym. We chatted and climbed once a year-ish ago. Tell Zach at the front I said whats up. Good luck with the channel, man.
@uncleiso
2 күн бұрын
gang in this bish! Appreciate you family
@matthewsevers5862
2 күн бұрын
I think your comments are spot on. Board climbing is a training tool for certain styles of climbing, and each board emphasizes a little bit different movement. Board climbing is generally stiffer (especially at the lower end of grades in my opinion) than gym climbing. At some point they’re both hard. I have also noticed some substantial variation in difficulty between board climbs that get the same grade. For example on TB2 most V6s I flash, including tension climbing classics, but there are V6s that feel impossibly hard. These could be exposing my own weaknesses, but I’ve received the same feedback from many other climbers. In my experience, spray wall climbing is most similar to outdoor climbing and can be a very useful tool to work specific skills or movements.
@uncleiso
2 күн бұрын
That's been my experience as well. I haven't had much experience on the spray wall, but I think it's probably a more accurate training tool since the holds are going to be the type of holds you'll actually find in a gym (or even outside). It's just harder to read and set since it doesn't have lights that can guide your movement. It would be awesome if there were bolts that could light up on a spray wall to make it easier to use. But maybe memorizing holds is a mental exercise in itself I should give a shot.
@geometerfpv2804
2 күн бұрын
You've got it backwards. The board grades are real, your gym is soft. The board climbs become standards that everyone in the world is climbing on, so you're getting much higher quality routesetting than at a local gym, unless you live somewhere with an amazing world-class gym.
@uncleiso
2 күн бұрын
I do agree that since board sets have an infinitely larger sample pool of climbers chiming in on the grades, there's a larger consensus of what one particular climb might be graded, but from my experience on the board, the difficulty from climb to climb even at the same grade point can differ quite dramatically, which is why I think the grading is still pretty subjective. I also think that since it's mostly strong climbers on the board, it's possible the perceived difficulty going into the lower grades might be skewed and probably evens out in the upper grade ranges (v6+). Also from what I've heard, difficulty from board to board changes, making it hard (at least for me) to say that board grades are definite. And lastly, the style of board climbing is specific to the board, whereas the styles set in the gym can vary greatly. You can't get a slab on a board. That's why I think board grades are kind of their own category and why the grading differs from gym sets. But these are my thoughts only a few months into training on the board. Perhaps I'll end up agreeing more with you the more I climb on it.
@BobClark01
2 күн бұрын
@@uncleisoclassy response
@Fred-oz3tw
2 күн бұрын
@@uncleiso you are right, that it differs from board to board, but if you climbed on one board for about a year already grades are accurate for you. gyms are soft in the us and europe especially on the lower levels for commercial reasons. and yes board is harsher at lower levels and gym is softer at lower levels. it changes around v6-v7
@uncleiso
Күн бұрын
Yea I think that there is an adjustment period to board climbing that doesn't get talked about the same way that there is an adjustment period for outdoor climbing that doesn't get talked about, but the more you get used to the style of climbing, the more approachable it feels. And spot on with the commercial grading. I kind of feel like the lower grades on the board are sandbagged intentionally to prevent beginner climbers from hopping on it since its primarily a training tool and if they're getting shut down instantly they'll leave it alone for the burly boulder bros to hog haha
@thiagof.6132
21 сағат бұрын
@@Fred-oz3twNot that accurate. At least on the moonboard, the easier benchmarks of each grade can feel 3 or 4 grades easier than the harder benchmarks of the same grade depending on the set.
@dark.wizard.brandledorf
Күн бұрын
ayyy nice bro. the tb2 is hella fun. i actually was in bmore a few weeks back and got to climb at this gym, it's super dope.
@uncleiso
Күн бұрын
ayyyy gang in this bish!
@MrWhatev4r
2 күн бұрын
popular boards are a better way to gauge level as opposed to a gym because of the consensus grading. It's not perfect, grades are still fked on the board, but it's a bit more reliable gauging system than a gym regardless of where you are. But you're right, if what gives you most enjoyment is climbing at your gym, it's probably best to do more climbs from your gym. Like you said, the board is usually used as a way of training and you will get stronger fingers doing board climbing but at the end of the day, if you're not enjoying it, don't do it. You can definitely learn to enjoy board climbing (maybe even more than climbing gym sets) but unless you take that jump to commit several months or even years of board climbing you will never really know. Thankfully I love training for outdoor climbs and pivoted to mainly board climbing but there was a point of time when I liked to climb gym sets more than the board. There are also a lot of moves and wall terrain that I can't really practice on the board (example arete climbs, slabs, overhanging climbs continuing to less steep angles, mantles, etc.) so I also have once every week/2 weeks gym sessions incorporated with my board climbing to target specific areas I want to improve on (mostly footwork/slab climbs).
@uncleiso
Күн бұрын
Easily one of the best takes on board climbing I've read. I feel like climbing in general has too many variables for anything to be a definite grading system and at the end of the day what's more important than the grade is how much you're enjoying the sport
@spacemanjr12
Күн бұрын
Indoor grades are soft, designed to be friendly for a wider range of climbers co.paed to outdoor and board
@tehMyychael
3 күн бұрын
I feel like if the goal is to get better at outdoor climbing then board climbing > gym climbing 100% of the time. I climb the gym sets when I want to have fun and board climb when I want to train/get stronger.
@uncleiso
2 күн бұрын
I agree with this. The board is a training tool, the gym is more recreational
@samuelpierini5189
Күн бұрын
Wish my gym had the TB2, only climbed the Kilter. It's super fun for training. I think it's only soft on the most popular ascents, once you scroll down far enough the grading gets way harder.
@uncleiso
Күн бұрын
I def wanna try the kilter. It looks like a ton of fun, but from what I've heard TB2 is where it's at as like a perfect middle ground between the kilter and the moon
@spacemanjr12
Күн бұрын
This guy good climber, if u get good movement intuition u can easily climb harder on board
@uncleiso
Күн бұрын
Thanks! Honestly I think my biggest weakness is pulling strength cause I struggle the most on the small edges, especially side pulls, but I tend to work best on the big flowy moves that require good body position
@lazeavlad
Күн бұрын
The board is not for recreation, that's why you feel it's sandbagged, when is the last time you climbed straight steep 2d climbing? How do you even grade for someone else, grading is and should be 100% subjective, if people say it's hard than they will grade so and the grade will even but usually someone that say is hard it's either a midget or weak af, so stick to the board, come back to the problems you say that now are hard and see how they are in a year
@urunashua
Күн бұрын
great video! What’s ur opinion on the evolv raves? I was thinking about buying that for my next pair once my scarpas are fully destroyed
@uncleiso
Күн бұрын
Thanks! And I really like these shoes. They're very snug so I feel like I can be very precise with my feet, but they lack toe rubber which makes them hard to use for bouldering imo. I can't really toe hook in them that well and toe dragging causes a lot of distress on the fabric which is a technique I use a lot to help keep me close to the wall especially on slab. I'm split on them being neutral because they're pretty comfy, but it's hard to dig deep on steep overhangs. However, I went top roping the other day and think these might be a perfect shoe for top roping!
@PandasAreCooI
Күн бұрын
nice video
@uncleiso
Күн бұрын
Appreciate yah!
@justinconrad3508
2 күн бұрын
how did you work your way up on the moonboard? im currently able to do most v3s at 30 degrees should i start v4s at 30 degrees? or you think v3s on 40 degrees?
@uncleiso
2 күн бұрын
This is the tension board. I've never tried the moon board but I've heard it's the hardest board out there so if you're on the moon board you're probably doing just fine! For me, I started at 30-35º to get used to the board, but I pretty much only train at 40º now. I think repeating climbs helps a lot too because the cleaner you get at the lower grades, the more prepared you are for the higher ones. Good luck!
@justinconrad3508
2 күн бұрын
@@uncleiso my b! i thought moon board = tension board. ive been climbing on tension board lol
@teostrong6973
Күн бұрын
Yeah v5 on the board is probably exactly average climbing
@uncleiso
Күн бұрын
Yea if I'm being honest, I don't think I beat the allegations haha, I definitely have more training to do. But I've only been climbing for a year so I don't think that my progress is an average experience either. I personally think of "average" climbers as those who are content with casual climbing, vs athletic climbers being those who train intentionally and continue to push themselves.
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