I need your advice for dealing with Carrier high efficiency furnace problems.
There was a class action lawsuit for their defective high efficiency furnaces made before 1989.
This unit isn’t even five years old. And if it was that old, I’d know it needed to be replaced.
Their high efficiency furnaces have two separate heat exchangers with two different drain lines that may consolidate down to one. If those are not set up correctly with easy drainage, moisture will back up into one or the other.
That could kill the flame.
If that’s the problem, you’ll see it within twenty minutes of running the furnace and it will show up shortly after installation.
Then that isn’t the problem I’m having.
High efficiency or low efficiency, they share many of the same error codes. For example, error code 12 comes up if the blower is running after power up during a call for heat.
The blower should be running. Well, I’ve heard noises that suggest it is, and not noises that suggest it needs oil.
For high efficiency furnaces, the thermostat calls for heat, the control board or IFC gets that signal, it looks at the pressure switch.
Error code 31 is when the pressure switch did not close or re-opened after closing. Error 23 is when the pressure switch didn’t open, though whether because the pressure tube is blocked or the switch is stuck requires examination.
Sounds like you’ve had to flip the switches to get the furnace to run or clear a pressure tube. Those errors can occur when there are bad drafts, the pressure switch is defective, the downflow furnace has a blocked vent switch -
My furnace doesn’t have a vent switch.
You can get error code 31 if the blower motor isn’t running or not running fast enough to deliver the right amount of air.
That would be obvious from its silence or the extra banging as it tries to run.
If there is a lot of wind outside, that can trigger the switch, though you should be able to reset the furnace and try again and have it run.
What else could be the issue?
If the pressure switch is closed, it locks out, though we already talked about resetting it.
Normally it will try again after ten minutes.
Sure but after several tries, it shuts down as a safety precaution until you reset it. If the pressure switch is right, then it will check the limit switch.
I know those can be defective or have loose wiring.
If the limit switches are closed, the HSI starts to warm up.
Fancy term for the ignitor. And if that has burned out or has loose wiring, it won’t ignite and you have to call for service.
After the ignition warms up, the gas valve opens up for a few seconds, and that’s the trial for ignition.
That’s where many things seem to go wrong.
If the flame sensor is dirty and doesn’t see the flame, I know that it will shut down at that point. 22 is the error code for abnormal flame proving, when it thinks there is a flame but gas is off.
And you know that’s the issue if you watch it warm up before shutting down.
The black ash layer on the flame sensor is another indicator unless the flame sensor is just too far from the flame to sense it. Or you put in the wrong model of flame sensor when you replaced it last.
But the blue flame light or other flame indicators also light up if it sees it.
If the flame is sensed, it turns on the fan to start spreading the heat through the house. And if the flame starts but the fans don’t, you’ll know from the lack of airflow to the house or the overheating of the high efficiency furnace.
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