Extra installation tips: The air intake pipe and the exhaust pipe/muffler should be mounted at a downward angle to allow water & condensation to drain. If your heater didn't come with a silencer for the air intake, there are upgraded silencers & mufflers you can buy to reduce the noise they make. The exhaust & intake pipes should go in opposing directions so that exhaust fumes don't get sucked into the intake pipe. The exhaust pipe should be pointed toward the closet edge of the undercarriage so that the fumes won't accumulate under the vehicle. If the noise of the heater disturbs you then mount the heater as far away from your sleeping area as practical. They sell quieter fuel pumps as an upgrade but their clicking is still audible. A piece of foam, preferably egg crate foam, can be wrapped around the pump to help muffle the clicking noise. Mounting the pump with a soft mount like on a rubber hanger helps to reduce the vibration when the pump diaphragm starts pumping.
@tommilka2287
Жыл бұрын
he knows that
@thefeet
3 жыл бұрын
Another tip, a well-seasoned mechanic who has installed many Espar and Webasto units over the years looked at my installation and advised me to, YES, keep the PUMP mounted at a 45-degree angle but the filter should always be mounted horizontally. The reason being is that the filter, when new, will always have a bit of air in it in the top half when mounted horizontally and over time, as it starts to clog up, you can easily tell if you need a new filter when you see that the filter is FULL of fuel. (restricted flow) I have no reason to doubt this man as he has been using these things for decades on his fleet of trucks and has been both a certified automotive and heavy-duty mechanic for more than 45 years.
@lancesmith452
3 жыл бұрын
Hi , great video. Just a tip for priming I used a spray pump from my wife's "Spray & wipe" bottle, the tube is the same size as the fuel line, so its just a matter of sliding it into the outer tube at the filter, it only takes a few seconds and it's done. Just be Shaw you put it back before the wife sees it's missing.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
haha and also clean out the diesel im guessing
@frank88ster
2 жыл бұрын
Ya,...feel U there,😜dats like dangerous territory man, Ur a brave on...lol!!
@koenbaglien5276
2 жыл бұрын
For the intake tubing, I would recommend SCAT tubing. Comes in all sizes. Used a lot in aviation, boats, and high performance cars. High temp resistant, durable, flexible, and won't collapse.
@seboo123
3 жыл бұрын
I own a Relay (or Jumper as it is called in rest of Europe) and I can confirm that the hatch for the diesel tank is just the same🙂
@FirstSuiGeneris
3 жыл бұрын
_Nice vlog with tips; I'm keeping this one to pass along to others who want to install their own. When it comes to these fuel tanks that come in the kits. There two main things that people miss. First is the tank itself. That little square foot is to give the tank a slight tilt for either way. Not to place the fuel nipple into. Although you can, as many do. Now, secondly, the lid, if you look under it pull these apart, you can put the fuel line through the top and into the next piece, pull the rubber from the clear piece. For installment into any camper, van, or trailer inside, you really want your fuel to feed your heater from the top, NOT under the fuel tank. Here the kicker, then you can use anything that holds diesel fuel for your needs. I just got done using 2 stainless steel jug for a fuel tank for a customer. Or you can use regular fuel can. If it ever goes bad, you just lift the whole line out and drop into a new tank in 10 sec. Those tanks for the kits can and will split right at the seams; I've changed out like five of them already for people and have always replaced with some type of top-down fuel line system with a replacement tank of some sort for the customers. When it comes to the pump, you can take all the air bubbles out caused by the piston's cavitation. You have to use a hand-operated vacuum pump. Once you prime to the pump with a hand-operated vacuum; connect the fuel line to the pump; a pump for a minute, add a foot foot-long, and a hand pump to add a strong vacuum and draw out the air. Once that done, you can run your line to the heater and prime until you get to the heater, pump out the fuel for a sec, then make the final connection to the heater. At that point, you can have the pump at 0° through 90° as long as you don't run it out of fuel from the tank. My own fuel line from the tank to pump is 2'; from the pump is 15' to the heater. A total of 17' with no air bubbles. My own build is the longest fuel line run to this day. Have also started to use 4mm air/ oil push-to-connector within the fuel systems, too, with no issues._
@FirstSuiGeneris
3 жыл бұрын
@@rustysummers3217, I was talking about the caps that come with these tanks in the kits. Yes, I use a regular 2 1/2 gallon regular fuel container for my own tank. My thinking was if I ever needed to replace the fuel container. I could go anywhere, even a 7-11 store, for a quick fix. I drilled a hole in the blank that kept fuel in and ran the line into it with the kits' metal nipple. But did use a different inline fuel filter, 1/4 ZYTC clear plastic glass inline filter close to the metal nipple. Right now, those seem to work fine, and I got them off of Amazon. Ten for 10 bucks, I think. You also need to make sure all the air is out of those filters too. I agree with you. I would NOT have any tank inside; you're right, just in case, the fuel would never get out the smell out, no matter how you clean it.
@FirstSuiGeneris
3 жыл бұрын
@@rustysummers3217, I'm not sure how long of a line you can have before the pump. I know what the manual has said, but I would think a good 5 meter before. Thanks, I'll set up a test this weekend to find out how long before the pump can't handle the draw in the back shop too. I have set up a couple of pumps and lines to test out more ways to keep the pumps and fuel lines' noise down to a bare minimum or cut out the noise completely. I let you know how it goes.
@DelCorbin
3 жыл бұрын
I have an observation to make concerning the use of a hard fuel line between the pump and the heater. It seems a soft fuel line like automotive fuel line would serve somewhat as a bladder that would reduce the number of times the pump 'clicks' and also take some shock out of the system. A pump 'clicking' into a solid plumbing system is going to see a rapid rate of pressure increase so the pump likely would pump less each 'click'. Another point: It seems drawing some of all of the combustion air for the heater from the living space would be handy for moisture reduction. I doubt that many campers are so air tight that the heater would be starved but if starving were a problem ventilation openings could easily be added. Nice job on the video and install. Thanks.
@LoveUrLife365
3 жыл бұрын
You are awesome! This was definitely the best pro tip video I've seen for these Chinese heaters. Concise, straight to the point, great video and music and no senseless chatter, which makes your videos very interesting to watch!
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
cheers matey!
@Shipfixer
3 жыл бұрын
Excellent information and advice. Very clear. I've been using these heaters for quite a while now. I've had one in my RV for two years and it still runs like new. Your advice about proper fuel line is dead on. It's not so critical for the line running up to the filter and pump, but from pump to heater you must use the 0.2 cm (id) tubing. It's hard for a reason. The soft rubber hose absorbs the pump's metering pulse. It doesn't allow a full pulse with soft hose. Don't know why they send this stuff with many heaters. Kind thanks for taking time to explain these things. You are helping many folks. Instant LIKE and SUBSCIBE! Greetings from Alaska.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
cheers! and greeting from the UK
@gnomiedan5424
3 жыл бұрын
I'm in wasilla Ak about to install mine any tips and tricks I should know
@Shipfixer
3 жыл бұрын
@@gnomiedan5424 As for information, there's tons of it here on KZitem. You'll get it figured out. Just don't take any shortcuts. Install it correctly. Find a way to prime it before just hitting the start button. If done correctly you'll have a good heat source and cheap too! Good luck.
@thelastadventurer7492
3 жыл бұрын
Just installed in my 92 Defender 110. Used 7/8” inner diameter rubber drain hose to extend the air intake 8 feet to a high location in the engine compartment away from water. I’ve got it tied back and away from the hot parts of the engine. It may not last forever but so far so good!
@johnparsons5413
3 жыл бұрын
I am considering one of these heaters and have been watching several how to install vids. Another tip is to be able to turn off the display unit when not in use, the read out seems to fade quite soon. Easy to buy and replace but just another cost. Hope this helps out. Thank you for a informative video.
@amandagoulart2272
3 жыл бұрын
Also thank you Hugh for this very informative video, to us rookies who are teaching ourselves, it means the world to have this broken down and explained as simply as possible with the experience behind recommending what to use and what not to use. Greatly appreciated this video
@catvando3209
3 жыл бұрын
On my heater I used a reinforced silicone pipe with a engine oil breather filter on the end and that helps a little in reducing the intake noise. The exhaust I used the fiberglass heat tape on it just as a precaution. The only other thing I did with mine is to reduce the top speed of the fans by a small amount to reduce vibration noise and it's now lovely and quite (for a diesel heater) and the van is toasty warm.
@RossTallo
3 жыл бұрын
How to reduce the fan speed mate?
@catvando3209
3 жыл бұрын
@@RossTallo press the settings button and then ok a couple of times until you find a set of - - - - then key in 1688. Its done on the up down buttons to select each number then ok to go to next number. After that pressing ok until you reach a low number i think off my head its 1.65hz that is the low pump speed the next one after pressing ok is the high speed of the pump that on mine i reduced by pressing the up/down button to set it at a lower number. Again its in Hertz 5.85hz example. After that after ok the next is low speed fans and high speed fans and by reducing the high speed fans by a small amount (800rpm) it stopped it howling like a banshee on start up. If you still struggle find me on Instagram and I will go through it with you on a video chat. Instagram or Facebook.
@RossTallo
3 жыл бұрын
@@catvando3209 some man, cheers Stephen! Will definitely have a go at this when I get mine 👍🏻
@mistermusic140
3 жыл бұрын
My diesel heater came with two mufflers, one for the intake and one for the exhaust.
@hsgjkhagljkh
3 жыл бұрын
Your video is fantastic, Hugh. The diagram made me smile. Thank you for putting in so much work to make the video. It is EXTREMELY HELPFUL.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks April!
@eddvanlife7396
3 жыл бұрын
Some great tips high for those people installing this heater.
@13yearsaprepperr.jtilbury.51
3 жыл бұрын
I use the soft Fuel pipe have done for 6 years i have 3 heaters , The hard pipe makes click click noise , the soft pipe nice and quiet , the fuel pulse has no dramas with the soft pipe at all Rob NSW Australia
@icsp2
2 жыл бұрын
I agree, that's what makes them so noisy. The fuel line does not affect the pulse at all as the pulse is controlled by electronics activating the pump. The hard plastic line resonates the noise making it even worse.
@freakyflow
3 жыл бұрын
fuel may cause stripping of certain types of hose, gradually perforating the fuel hose Make sure to use the rated hose for Diesel And prevent a cause of fire
@kayeldee1
3 жыл бұрын
Thx I was wondering why.
@Melonator2456
3 жыл бұрын
Yeah I used the soft tube that came with my kit and it did this
@geraldhenrickson7472
3 жыл бұрын
That is the main problem with the green supply hose that comes in SOME diesel air heater kits. It is suitable for aquariums...maybe. Your local auto supply store can provide the proper fuel-rated line and fittings (if needed) to get you up and running. Take the green line in with you to purchase the good stuff.
@campingroadtrips
3 жыл бұрын
@@geraldhenrickson7472 does anyone have a link to what tube i should buy please? thank you
@Paul-pb3vq
3 жыл бұрын
I've got three of these. I swapped out virtually all the fittings including fuel tanks. I used a hydroponics 15ltr top fill and top outlet tank, they are fully chemical and solvent resistant. so no fear of leaking from bottom fittings. I agree that the hose clips supplied are not very good quality. And I use proper diesel fuel line with the braided outer covering. I love them super heat output. Cheap spares as well. PS good video for beginners.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Paul! couldn't agree more you basically get a super cheap webasto with bag accessories. change up the extra parts and you're laughing
@wallacegrommet9343
3 жыл бұрын
All of your tips are essentials for reliable performance
@exploringavenues2269
3 жыл бұрын
My tip is to not use the rubber gasket that goes next to the exhaust outlet. Mine was heating up and burning, giving off burnt rubber fumes. I took it off and used fire resistant sealant instead.
@mingueyox
3 жыл бұрын
What sealant would you recommend? I found VITCAS Heat Resistant SILICONE (300°c) of VITCAS Heat Resistant Sealant Sealant (1300 °C).I have no clue about these products
@exploringavenues2269
3 жыл бұрын
@@mingueyox I am pretty sure it was the one called firemate that I used but I wouldn't know if it is the best one. I have a carbon monoxide tester in the van and it hasn't gone off having used the heater a few times in the last 2 months.
@mingueyox
3 жыл бұрын
@@exploringavenues2269 Great. Thank you you for your feedback 👍
@IW4DBX
3 жыл бұрын
Be sure to leave enough room around the exhaust pipe to avoid overheat the layers around it
@dennis.teevee
3 жыл бұрын
nice tip, i was going to leave mine on!
@petethewrist
3 жыл бұрын
Good video it is good to have these points given verbally, but one point a good inline switch is great and needed if you leave fire not used for long time. But switch must be safe and never used to turn fire off.
@RossTallo
3 жыл бұрын
Good idea...For the fuel line or electric my friend?
@SC-cp3gq
3 жыл бұрын
OK so I am waiting for mine to arrive (went for an all in one unit). I thought id get it early on so I can dry out my convoy properly before doing all the prelim work and insulating. Had always though I would go with a woodburner but an experienced mate extolled the virtues of the diesel heater. Slightly beginning to wish I hadn't as I am now going down the KZitem rabbit hole with this stuff! However, thanks for this video Hugh, and thanks to all those giving great insights in the comments! S.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
haha the YT rabbit hole can be a dangerous peril! Good luck with it all
@T8RTU
3 жыл бұрын
Great video and useful safety points too. I’ve heard a number of installers also upgrade the filter as they are often fragile or brittle. Cheap enough from Halfords. Like the idea of something more substantial for the air supply to the heater too. ✅👍
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
Yes great point, for such a small amount of extra money upgrading those small parts can make a big difference
@LillaHusVanlife
3 жыл бұрын
Good few tips, there, Hugh.. 👍 I've fitted mine, but not wired it yet. Firstly I discarded the plate and bought a turret plate for £19 with sufficient depth to protect the plywood and insulation layers and protrude through the bodywork..then I had some of the nylon pipe from a previous van. The jubilee clips, are all stainless ones from online. I didn't use any of the ones that came with the unit. When I wire it up, I'll be cutting the battery wires as short as possible, to avoid voltage errors, or maybe changing them to thicker wires.. 🤔 Oh and lastly, I bought some aluminium ducting from Amazon, as the ducting supplied is minimal, considering it came with a T junction and two vents...lol Great vid..thankya.. 👍
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
Cheers, some interesting points!
@andrewpeak1124
Жыл бұрын
Great video. I’ve got both relay and a boxer and can confirm that he Relay is the same set up with easy access to the top of the tank
@Itsnotmeitsmybrother
2 ай бұрын
Hi you get compression fitting for the hard plastic use the black as the clear is susceptible to UV degrading !! Also butting it up against input on pump inside some tube if bent can obstruct opening restricting flow !! The best on other fuel lines are crimp ones you get a more even distribution on the grip!! I used to do motorsport and all these that iv’e said are all tested and proven as we’ve all gone through that with fuel lines especially on fuel injected engines as re pressure !! Also same on any air lines like on air jacks same plastic tube with pressure fittings !! 👍
@stephenmason5682
Жыл бұрын
Im a Newby about to select and buy a unit. You video is first class and helpful. You ention things I don't even know about, so couldn't consider? Great work!
@mattt1974UK
3 жыл бұрын
I'm surprised that you have not made a video showing how to tap into the fuel tank of the Relay/Boxer/Ducato. This would be super useful for many as I can't find a good how to.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Matt, I will be showing an install of a Truma D6E soon in which I tap into my tank
@grahamhubsch9610
Жыл бұрын
Tx bro for all your good advice 🙏 God bless you. 🙌 Much love from South Africa 🇿🇦
@HughTube
Жыл бұрын
cheers dude! appreciate it!
@davidpiper3652
3 жыл бұрын
Sprinters and Masters have an aux feed fitted on the sender, it's capped off and is really simple to use. My Ducato had a hatch like your Boxer but bizarrely it did not line up with the sender! External tank to the rescue.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
That’s super useful having a pre fitted aux point!
@coreybabcock2023
Жыл бұрын
Yes I always pre prime the lines going to the pump your right about the dry wear too
@gedreillyhomestead6926
3 жыл бұрын
I was thinking about fitting a wood burning stove in my shed/workshop but now I'm considering one of these diesel heaters. 👍 😎
@bobpeg7457
3 жыл бұрын
I installed one of these in my travel trailer (caravan). It came out of a wrecked semi truck (transport). Nearly all truck manufacture's here in the States use the same heaters in the sleeper berths. Very quiet. My next project is to install the APU (Aux. Power Unit) from the same wreck to supply house hold electric power and air conditioning. It is also diesel powered and circulates engine coolant thru the vehicle engine block when parked.
@dayneditiont5.163
3 жыл бұрын
I bought one of these heaters so this is a great video for me. The only thing I think you need change if using the t5s own tank is the pick up pipe. The one that comes in the kit,the nut is to big and doesn't fit on the sender. I got the proper one for about £12 I think.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
yeah I have bought a few of the much slimmer erberspacher ones
@stonedferrit
3 жыл бұрын
The vw t4 has a round metal panel under the passenger seats unscrew that and you have access to the top of the fuel tank/sender it means unbolting the seats but easier than dropping the fuel tank 😉
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
I was very happy to find this access hatch when I installed a heater on a friends t4 last summer
@AmylouButtress
3 жыл бұрын
Great video, thanks. I know someone who had the air intake pipe squashed and killed the heater so definitely try to mount that pipe somewhere as protected as possible.
@koningbolo4700
2 жыл бұрын
For the inlet pipe I made a mandrel from a broomstick which I screwed in a threaded rod into. The mandrel can be used to make a coil out of (what I use) 1,6mm thick mig welding wire. One can also use the thicker gardening wire or simply fencing wire. The coil can be fed over the flimsy pipe which keeps it from kinking or deforming very easily. In general one has to be careful how such pipes are mounted and routed...
@Rattlesomecages
3 ай бұрын
Awesome tips!
@dennis.teevee
3 жыл бұрын
very very helpful tips! thinking of buying a diesel heater soon.
@Itsnotmeitsmybrother
2 ай бұрын
Ah that paper insulated hose again you get reinforced it’s not as cheep though🙈!! But we used it on air ducting to and from brake ducting !! And it’s way more flexible without kinking !!
@Melonator2456
3 жыл бұрын
So I used the soft line that you said not to use... And I noticed today that the line had micro cracks all the way up it after some moderate use... I installed it about 5 months ago. So yeah time to get the nylon one and change them over
@bobbymoore1615
3 жыл бұрын
So use direct fused positive to battery Allowing to cool down and save your PCB electronic printed circuit board .👍
@BradWithTheVan
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tips dude! - I was going to fit the tank that came with the kit but I think ill just plumb in the sender on my Ducato!
@irishrover63
3 жыл бұрын
I just got my heater installed at the garage I use who also convert camper vans. My fuel comes directly from the van tank, but that pick up pipe in the kit is not required. Instead the fuel line is spliced using a "T" piece. I also purchased a mounting plate with 65mm turret so only one 125mm diameter hole needs cut on the floor, my heater is mounted under the drivers seat and I have a 2kw heater which is adequite. You are correct about that green tubing, the minute he saw that he said you will need some descent fuel grade tubing. I wired mine into my fuse box even though it has a 15A inline fuse. I don't want the display runing constantly and when my van is parked up and not in use I use the power isolation switch mounted beside my leisure battery to power off. I found it strange that 5kw heaters are cheaper than 2kw.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
Cheers matey, some great info! I may look into fuel line splicing!
@Mike-hf2bc
2 ай бұрын
Do you have a link for the mounting plate?
@irishrover63
2 ай бұрын
@@Mike-hf2bc Just look on eBay for 60mm diesel heater turret. You can buy one for £12.99
@brentbailey4900
3 жыл бұрын
I found the pump very noisy on first installation. Now mounted in a diecast box with filter. The box is on vibration mounts on the caravan chassis rear. I can just hear the pump faintly when in side, if I want to and that is loud enough. Mine is through its own switch at the battery. On at the start of a trip and off on return home. I kept hot air hose to one length and one vent for a 21 ft heavily insulated van in Australian climate. All good.
@caseyangeletti6300
Жыл бұрын
All the cutaway vans I have had in the U.S. already have the dip tube installed in the fuel tank from the factory. You only need to pull the rubber cap off and hook up.
@frankiez7414
2 жыл бұрын
the reason they changed from the side filling cap to the one you have with the filling port in the middle is because there is less chance of diesel leakage as its splashing about in there. You do not want any diesel anywhere in your van and its best to either tap into the vehicle supply(difficult for most)or fit a separate external tank. Tanks under the bonnet are not recommended as you also dont want any diesel in the engine bay.
@eldoradoboy
3 жыл бұрын
ive been using the intake and exhaist tubes for years that came with my heater.. no problems with the intake getting clogged or the pipe squished.. you just have to protect it whern you install it that you have the exhaust pointing toward the back of thre van / bus / RV so that you dont oush dirt, bugs, water, etc into the exhaist while you are driving.
@josephjackson5330
3 жыл бұрын
the return fuel line is a perfect picup.alot of companies give u an exorst thats 2-3 mm to big & use exorst paste .
@katcankan7129
3 жыл бұрын
Very interesting, l hope we get to see you install it 😊
@SacredHeart0520
Жыл бұрын
For fresh air intake. Try some flexible conduit . It's can withstand heat but won't crush and is flexible . Also if your heater loses power. You can supplement air flow . So u don't ruin it .
@charleswymer7934
3 жыл бұрын
Great tips. Very informative, Thank you!
@JacuzziSurfer
3 жыл бұрын
Great video! I literally just bought a diesel Ducato (Dodge Promaster here in the US) and am looking to install this exact unit! And wondering how to tap the fuel tank as well! Thanks a bunch, saved me a sh*t load of time
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
haha glad I could help
@excaliburmcc
3 жыл бұрын
If you buy a new sender unit for a Transporter it comes with an extra outlet for a diesel heater.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
Oh awesome!
@marks-0-0
3 жыл бұрын
I fitted mine like Mels Van World does his installs. Buy a more suitable custom sized tank online that fits your location, I only had space for a small 5 litre (ask for a lid with one way valve) Buy a fuel outlet tube that fits at the top of the tank. In my case this has two benefits - the tank can't leak fuel at a low point like the standard tanks and you don't need the fuel filter as any impurities sit in the bottom of the tank. Especially because my filter when it was fitted being a cheap part leaked diesel.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
Some great info Mark, I personally would still always add a filter but you could get a decent one for pretty cheap
@frank88ster
2 жыл бұрын
Anudda tip for insulating exhaust 'hot' pipe can actually double as 'heat exchanger'. Coil a copper pipe (moving liquid, I E oil or water) around exhaust pipe n U got free heated water (5w /12v water pump). Slip anuud larger pipe over windings after taping exhaust tape around copper n U hav a heat exchange going n a safer contact wid odda materials.
@williamlee7782
2 жыл бұрын
The last tip about overheating the PCB board is why I don't put the heater on a switch. While the controller draws a bit of power even on off, after the heater fully shuts down and cooled, and only when I don't plan to use the heater for the night (say, when I'm done camping in the cold), will I disconnect the controller to prevent a parasitic draw to the house/aux battery.
@vplph
4 ай бұрын
If you can't find an air inlet pipe that is more robust consider to attach a larger steel pipe around it for protection.
@lloydmorrison5979
2 жыл бұрын
EXCELLENT advice! Thank you for the video.
@HughTube
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for your advice on the sprinter as well!
@sunnymas2656
3 жыл бұрын
I agree complete with you - thank you for your video, instructions, presentation etc. I fix and customize vehicles since many years. So I use good parts, to get run without problems. ie a cheap clamp can become terrible. But no One wants to get this. So I have a box with good clamps in different sizes. This shown green tube roll is ie in use for the water system by the windscreen wipers. Or at fish tanks. But not for fuel. There are bigger rubber tubes with textile reinforced - mounted in vehicles. With a small pump like these diesel pumps, you need small tubes. Made of material, who stays solid, while the pump is soaking. = you said it right. Here in germany I use light oil for heating. Even to fill a diesel heater tank. Because it costs the half price = cheaper as diesel fuel. And I have 4.500 litres light oil at home. But it is illegal, to drive a diesel car with light oil. Starting year 2021, the diesel price climbs up to seven Euro-cents more per litre. Here in germany. You can say, a running diesel heater needs not much diesel. ie a 5 kw heater, who makes 2 kw heating, needs less diesel and less noise, as a 2 kw heater. But if you let run the diesel heater several hours per day, it will need his fuel. And this costs his price.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
thanks and thank you for all the information!
@robinsonlabs
2 жыл бұрын
fuel pump tip, spray a little shot of wd40 into the pump before you start priming, that way it has a drop of lube to work with before it gets diesel boom!
@rvrandy1710
3 жыл бұрын
what a great to the point video ! i didnt have to watch you eat a burger and pet your dog for 20 minutes :-) Thank you :-)
@marycox1943
3 ай бұрын
Regarding the nylon fuel line and the click clicking from the fuel pump. You suggest to “soft mount” the fuel line to reduce the fuel pump clicking sound. Could you please explain what soft mounting means? A valuable video, so thank you.
@malcolm2587
11 ай бұрын
I never hear anybody mention OC detector should be the first thing it has some kind of built-in one I wouldn't trust it anytime you can bust in a small enclosed area you should have that on the wall stay safe
@stevesowerby522
3 жыл бұрын
The rubber pipe is better than nylon hose and is a necessity in a boat. Get a better exhaust and use the the existing aluminium one for air intake. Use the simplest on off control unit as less to go wrong. Mount where easily accessible and they're so cheap you can just get a spare if you have problems. Run on maximum power regularly to clean the carbon build up.
@robinsonlabs
2 жыл бұрын
We are designing a small add-on interface that will go between the controller and heater on the blue wire. the interface will only have two wires to splice in (blue and ground) it wont stop you using the heater or controller in any way however what it does is if the heater is running in a low setting after a set time it will take over control and ramp up the heater for 5 mins at full burn then it will revert back to your own lower settings, after a little while it will do it again. what this does is help stop the heater clogging up with soot by giving it time to burn it out caused by running the heater low for too long. this is what happens in the more expensive units of Webasto and Erberspacher
@lloydmorrison5979
2 жыл бұрын
The Mercedes-Benz Sprinter has an Extra fuel outlet for extra fuel needs. Very easy to do.
@rjhtrucking5429
2 жыл бұрын
Hi , rubber tubing for the air inlet pipe. Coolant pipe from any motor factors. Also the air tube has to be the same length as the exhaust pipe.
@LoftechUK
Жыл бұрын
Garden fish pond hose is great for air intake plus a cold air filter from a cheap moped is brill
@davidpatrick1813
3 жыл бұрын
Questions: 1. how is the fuel efficiency ... 2. What do you think of a fuel filter 3. What is their warranty if you know?
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
hi david, depends on the heat output selected but: kzitem.info has some great info and I think he mentions fuel usage amounts. the fuel filter seems fine. A little flimsy and worthy of an upgrade but works none the less. don't think there is a warranty on these, more a case of as it costs under £100 if it breaks you buy another, which is a shame.
@jamesrougeau
3 жыл бұрын
Excellent! Awesome detailed video amen. Just subscribed! Thanks...
@BigVanSmallWorld
3 жыл бұрын
Very informative well done 👍 I got a tip get a wood burner 😂
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
ahh Mel, I would love a log burner but it just won't work in my design for the current van
@stuartwallace7841
3 жыл бұрын
The wood burner with the pizza oven looks stunning !
@avadeal345
3 жыл бұрын
May be able to use flexible electrical conduit fery strong
@martinmaxwell2004
2 жыл бұрын
Hi, trafic/ vivaro/ primastar just cut the return line to fuel tank and add a tee piece for your fuel feed. Simples!!
@TinyGoHomes
Жыл бұрын
Order a wall power supply for when your around power or already have a plan for power with a battery and trickle charger.
@varzel
3 жыл бұрын
ducato has same fueltank acces location. when u cutoff power there will be unburned fuel tha will mix with the sutt and slowly form a weird gunk in the chamber and on the glowspark besides melting electonic pcb and the casing . u can let the air inlet without tubing just put a wiremash not to frie any radants.
@Rockhopper1
3 жыл бұрын
I installed one of these on my garden workshop, it was a pig to fit, but once in its a godsend. I use paraffin for fuel, only thing wrong with it is, the amps, on start up I have to turn off any other electrical draw in the workshop. It takes 5-10 minutes for it to warm up and drop its amps. Then I can turn on the solar electrics and all is fine. Massive other tip is on shutdown let it shutdown by itself dont just turn off the machine. It stops it choking up with coke. My health and safety inspection on my workshop they made me fit a Carbon Monoxide detector above it, and a smoke detector, oh the exhaust gets mega mega hot, I wrapped my in a silicone,
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
Cheers Richard, they do draw a ton of amps on startup! Yeah I mention about letting it do its run down cycle, don't want the control board melting. Another good tip on wrapping the exhaust if it passes near important stuff
@ollydogtravels9465
2 жыл бұрын
Being an engineer, we pulled one of these apart in the work shop, straight to the point my life is worth more than £90, its that price foor a reason, their shite
@daleleonard9486
3 жыл бұрын
wow i have had issues with mine blowing exhaust fumes back into the van so i have had to cut it off, didnt realise the importance of letting it run down. very helpful thanks
@LoftechUK
Жыл бұрын
Another great tip if the unit is the 230v type get a UPC
@alexisdewolf7114
3 жыл бұрын
It's funny what you say about the air intake because I ordered yesterday an exhaust pipe to replace it.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
Boom I read your mind
@nmartin5551
3 жыл бұрын
Where did you order another exhaust?
@stevejeffrey11
3 жыл бұрын
@@nmartin5551 you can get them on amazon or ebay 20-30 bucks
@GAZOD
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Hugh, been using that green fuel line for 2 plus years now without problems infact I did buy the harder nylon fuel line to replace it. I checked it around a month ago (before winter) just to check the green line was holding up and it still looks brand new after 2 years, but I have the other nylon type with the rubber ends as a back up. I also made a aluminium heat sheild that fits between the fuel line and the exhaust that fixed by the 2 main unit bolts that come through the floor.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
good to hear yours is still going strong
@RichardOutdoors
6 ай бұрын
If you're going to recommend alternatives, it would help if you were specific. 'You need this, sort of, hard nylon stuff' is no good. We need specs.
@davidpatrick1813
3 жыл бұрын
Regarding of air intake. Maybe see if you can find flexible electrical conduit and put the air intake tube inside it.. not replacing it.
@dockerandy
3 жыл бұрын
yes relay tank accessable on my 2016 model through hatch under passenger seat.
@eldoradoboy
3 жыл бұрын
icve had one shut off while it was running full bl;ast.. it smelled a little hot but didnt die.. for some reason the fuse popped while the heater was on.. personally i dont care for these.. I like the coolant version better because it can pre-heat my engine.. so ive switched to the coolant units that keep the coolant warm and then I use the interior heater fans to keep the cabin warm (mine are in Busses and not caravans)
@1993nep
3 жыл бұрын
The good thing about using the tank provided and not your van diesel tank you can use red diesel witch is cheeper
@Olly3pow
3 жыл бұрын
Awesome informative video, thanks. When you mention about priming the fuel pump, how do you do this? Many thanks.
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
you can grab little hand pumps that are used to suck fuel up lines for priming. you don't need to prime the line from pump to heater (unless a very long line) but its advised that you prime from tank to pump.
@roytoal9947
3 жыл бұрын
Id use silicone hose that the boy racers use for the air intake side
@RossTallo
3 жыл бұрын
This any good under the van though mate? I know the stuff you mean, but only seen it in an engine bay...never held it either
@roytoal9947
3 жыл бұрын
@@RossTallo it's tough stuff used for oil , water and turbos so I imagine it would take being under a van, as under a hot bonnet with high pressure etc
@RossTallo
3 жыл бұрын
@@roytoal9947 excellent, will remember this when I buy my heater 👍🏻
@TrustNotMyHeart
2 жыл бұрын
Love my fuel tank cap at the top. I hear about too many spills when it is on the side. I guess it all depends on your build.design.
@RichardCummins-ni4em
Жыл бұрын
I have two identical heaters, both low cost [$AU105.00] 5kW suitcase types with fuel tank inside the cabinet. Both smoked profusely from the exhaust on startup. Modifications such as changing glow plugs, checking atomizer screen location and heavier gauge wiring from external power source came to nothing. I changed fuel line downstream of the fuel pump from soft transparent type to the more rigid nylon line as shown in the above vid and problem solved, now nil visible smoke at startup.
@DanielJonesParamotor
3 жыл бұрын
Perfect timing, been looking into diesel heaters for my build
@andrewgilbride7546
3 жыл бұрын
Wondering why people never refer to their “Chinese made” inverter, solar panels, charger, pumps, mobile phone, laptop, iPad etc....
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
Think it has just become a popular name but it is a shame everything seems to be made in china
@buggzo
3 жыл бұрын
Even the "non-Chinese made" diesel heaters are just rebranded Chinese ones.
@xXTheoLinuxXx
Жыл бұрын
Today I received my second heater (vevor) and this one has the white nylon tube instead of the green one.
@stevecarlisle3323
2 жыл бұрын
Ahhh, the fuel supply line MYTH ! The hard line and rubber hose are legend for weeping diesel fuel. The green line is a upgrade that is more flexible for installation, and providing minimal joints. It does however require clamping more than the plastic. Zip ties with srcrew eyes work well. There have been heaters run with both types of lines, with NO noted differance in performance. The old original webasto heaters came hard line, 3mm inside and 6mm outside dimensions . This used rubber type hose for connection to tank, pump and heater. There should be no air in the system if bleeding was done properly.
@brucesannino6181
3 жыл бұрын
Question please. I won't bore you with a lot of details, unless you ask, BUT! how much of a head will the pump lift and how hot does the exhaust pipe get. As in, hot enough to start a fire? By the by, EXCELLENT tip regarding the cool down cycle. Thanks in advance and best regards.
@sunnymas2656
3 жыл бұрын
Check the detailed test videos of John McK 47 here at KZitem. kzitem.info/rock/LxP_AwzCecuipKsLK1uAvQ
@HughTube
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Bruce, as @sunnymas says in the other comment John Mck47 is a WEALTH of knowledge on these heaters. Not sure on head lift but the exhaust out gets hot enough that it shouldn't be near combustible materials
@brucesannino6181
3 жыл бұрын
Another question if you don't mind. I'm going to post this same question to John McKay but I don't think it will hurt to get two expert opinions. Our motor home is gasoline not diesel. We've already got two types of fuel gasoline and LPG and I don't want to make it three. Not much information here on gasoline fired Webasto type heaters. Brian on RVing with Tito has an excellent video on his install but his is a genuine Webasto, one thousand five hundred bucks. If the Chinese knock offs were $150.00 all in, you could swap out ten of them when one failed plus have a dealer grade inventory of spare parts. There is a video here that covers running gasoline in a 'diesel' heater but the video is painful to watch. Bless the man's effort to contribute to us all but his shop and work habits don't inspire confidence. I've watched it a couple of times and I'm still surprised his entire shop doesn't burst into flames. So, comment please. What's if anything is the difference between heaters built for the two different fuels? I'm not much for modifying factory builds when it comes to liquid fuel open flame appliances. 🔥 Thanks in advance and best regards!
@mhelander
3 жыл бұрын
I've used stock fuel tubing between pump & heater and exactly as long as manual suggests. Now thinking it more clearly it makes sense to use hard line there. My filter is just after tank and has short stock tubing, rest of suction tubing to pump is braided rubber fuel line, some 6 meters. My only issue is when running out of fuel... getting it running takes some time and likely wear of the pump.
@dannyharty3656
3 жыл бұрын
Yes I have 07 fiat ducato campervan and it's the same
@theobaldwilderbeast
3 жыл бұрын
An in-line fuel filter is a good idea also
@jimkeating3067
Ай бұрын
Silly question here. Could I use the jerry can that is mounted on the back of my 4wd. I could maybe find some sort of connector to hook up when I’m using it and disconnect it when I don’t need it
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