客家人生活中勤儉惜福不浪費的產物很多,酸柑茶就是其中一樣!
虎頭柑,產季為每年農曆年前左右,家家戶戶都會買虎頭柑回家,當作年節供桌上喜氣大方的擺飾,雖然外形漂亮但卻口感酸澀,一般人並不會真的拿來食用,因此客家人就發明了虎頭柑的酸柑茶。
許時穩師傅是苗栗頭份百年茶園的第四代傳人,自小與祖父及父執輩參與農務,進而學習製作酸柑茶;酸柑茶製作過程繁複費時,一般茶葉只需花費二到三天就能完成,一顆酸柑茶需要花費二到三個月,以現在的商業考量其實很不符合成本,但是對於許師傅來說,這是屬於他兒時的回憶,也是客家人惜物的精神象徵,所以還是謹遵先人傳下來的古法製作。
酸柑茶需要經過所謂的「九蒸九晒」,其實就是要不斷地蒸、壓、烘、再壓的循環,將酸柑裡頭的水分充分去除的重複步驟。早期酸柑茶使用茶腳、茶末等混合虎頭柑的果肉製作,許師傅近年直接使用20年的老紅茶,並且加入少許青草、紫蘇等,讓茶香口感增添更多層次!為了一口好茶,許師傅長年堅持有機栽種,強調祖訓:「寧賣祖宗田,勿忘祖宗言;寧賣祖宗園,不忘祖宗源!」有機會喝上一口師傅的酸柑茶,可以一起感謝客家先民們的智慧!
Many goods were invented in the thrifty and appreciative Hakka people's life due to their habits of not wasting, bitter orange tea being one of them!
The harvesting season of the Hutou Gan fruit is roughly before Lunar New Year’s Eve every year. Every household will buy Hutou Gan fruit and place them on their offering table as a cheerful and elegant festive decoration in the Lunar New Year festival. Although the Hutou Gan has a beautiful appearance, it tastes sour. Most people don't really eat them. Therefore, the Hakka people invented the bitter orange tea from Hutou Gan fruit.
Master XU Shi-Vun is the fourth-generation heir of the century-old tea garden in Toufen, Miaoli. He has been involved in farming together with his grandfather and his parents since he was a child, and learned to make bitter orange tea. The process of making bitter orange tea is complicated and time-consuming. Generally, a conventional tea takes two to three days to process. It takes two to three months to make a bitter orange tea. Under commercial considerations, the bitter orange tea does not meet the cost. But for Master Xu, this is a childhood memory that belongs to him, this is also a spiritual symbol of the Hakka people's appreciation of things, so he persists in following the ancient recipe passed down from his ancestors to make the bitter orange tea.
A process so-called "nine steaming and nine drying" is necessary in the production of the bitter orange tea. It is a cycle of repetitive steps requiring tea makers to steam, press, bake, and re-press the fruit to fully remove the moisture from the Hutou Gan fruit.
In the early days, bitter orange tea was made with broken tea leaves that are damaged during the production process mixed with the flesh of the Hutou Gan fruit. Master Xu directly uses leaves of 20 years aged black tea trees these years, and enhances the layers of flavors by adding a little herbs, perilla, etc! For a delicious sip of tea, Master Xu has insisted on organic planting for many years, emphasizing ancestral teaching, "Sell the fields inherited from the ancestors, rather than forgetting words from the ancestors. Sell the gardens inherited from the ancestors, rather than forgetting our ancestral root!" If you have the opportunity to take a sip of the master's bitter orange tea, you can thank the Hakka ancestors for their wisdom!
關於「傳、傳」/ About the work
以紀錄片形式,拍攝客家傳統技術及工藝職人無私貢獻默默付出之身影,呈現台灣客家百工百業生態及文化工作,促進大眾對客家文化資產的重視,進而讓客家文化及精神永續傳承。
To promote the public's awareness of Hakka cultural assets, and pass on Hakka culture and spirit, this documentary series showcases the ecology of all walks of life and the cultural works of Hakka ethnicity in Taiwan, by recording the traditional Hakka skills and craftsmen's selfless and silent contributions in a sustainable manner.
出品:財團法人客家公共傳播基金會
Presented by: Hakka Public Communication Foundation (HPCF)
Негізгі бет Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль 《傳、傳 - 許時穩》酸柑茶|Legend: Shi-Vun Xu (Bitter orange tea) 傳傳第二季 Legend S02, 2022
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