This is a method for cleaning anchors if you are the last climber on top-rope and you need to remove the temporary anchors (in this case, it’s 2 opposing quickdraws) and then lower down the fixed anchor rings.
As shown in the video, you connect your Personal Anchor System (PAS) to one of the fixed rings or hangers. If the fixed anchor rings are not connected to each other by a chain (as in this case) and if you want an added redundancy, you could connect another quickdraw to the other fixed anchor ring and your PAS if it’s possible. However, as you are never quite off-belay for this method, there is already some redundancy. It’s important to note that as you are passing the bight of rope through the rings, you are only asking for slack from your belayer, but your belayer should keep you on-belay at all times. That is, he is always ready to catch your fall at any time. Thus, even if your PAS were to fail, you are still anchored to either the temporary or fixed anchor.
The advantage of this method is that you are kept on-belay at all times and there is no risk of losing the rope after you untie your figure 8 from your harness. However it does require you to bring along an extra locking carabiner.
Note that this method will only work if the anchor rings are large enough to pass a bight of rope through or if your rope is long enough for the excess ‘tail’ you will have after you untie your figure 8 from your harness. If neither of this conditions are possible, then you need to perform the untie/re-tie figure 8 method.
This demo is for information purposes and not an instructional video. Climbing / Abseiling / Lowering can be dangerous if done incorrectly so do so at your own risk!
Location : Beacon Hill, Hong Kong.
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