Years ago while obsessively researching routes in Yosemite, I came across a line on the south face of Half Dome called Autobahn and added it to my mental todo list. It was first climbed in 1985 but is seldom done today due to its runout nature. Some pitches contain a single protection bolt in 150 feet of climbing and there are many sections of runout 5.10 along with a mandatory 11+ mantle that can’t be pulled through. Adrian Vanoni and I set out to climb it swapping leads as we inched our way up the route. On my lead on pitch 6, I came to a fresh rock fall scar where a left facing corner was shown on the original topo. It turned out that a 20 foot section of the route had fallen off and we either had to bail or pioneer a new way around it. I pendulumed to an adjacent dike and climbed it till I was able to step back onto the original route. Adrian was able to free climb a new slab variation to the original anchor, which is now only a single bolt. We continued up and topped out before 4pm, very happy to have all 4 of our ankles in tact. We climbed this thing on 5/7/21. Check Mountain Project for a topo and beta if anyone is interested in climbing this rad line.
- Күн бұрын
Climbing Autobahn on the South Face of Half Dome (5.11+ R)
- Рет қаралды 34,308
Пікірлер: 75