I had no idea my crimps aren't full crimps! I'm going to test that out next climb. Looking forward to seeing you working on pocket use...
@fatoldclimber
5 ай бұрын
Haha. You’ll have to wait a long time to see me working on pockets :). Hate, hate, hate them.
@KillerLettuce
5 ай бұрын
Slopers are my nemesis. Especially if you need to do some sort of compression move on two of them at once.
@fatoldclimber
5 ай бұрын
Oh man. Compression moves on slippers? Forget it.
@FeetOnARockNewSong
5 ай бұрын
Great video! For the non-Scots: 'pinkie' is little finger. You might need to explain 'pulleys', though. That is not a word I am familiar with in the context of hands😉
@fatoldclimber
5 ай бұрын
Thanks. And 😂 to the pinkie comment :) I had a bit explaining what pulleys are, but cut it out. Might have to do another video to explain :). They’re what attaches your tendons to your finger bones.
@NotApplicable2874
5 ай бұрын
Didn't know that pinkie was a Scottish thing. We also call it that in the States - interesting. Thanks for the video Gordon!
@gordonrobb
5 ай бұрын
@@NotApplicable2874 I was fairly sure it was used in the states too :) Definitely not common in England though.
@andymcl92
5 ай бұрын
My understanding was that a half crimp had your knuckles level, but full crimps had the middle knuckles higher than the ones at the tips of your fingers and often have the thumb locked over the top. Maybe there's a bit of debate in the terminology. I think I've learned to enjoy slopers more. Doesn't mean I'm good at them, but they can certainly make for interesting routes. Dont like pockets though!
@fatoldclimber
5 ай бұрын
Not sure there's any way of having fingers bent 90 degrees at second knuckle and having them be level 🤔. I've only ever seen the difference between half and full be the locking thumb, but maybe. And no, pockets need to be removed from walls :)
@andymcl92
5 ай бұрын
@@fatoldclimber Sorry, I mean having the...first and second (which way do you number knuckles?) level with each other, with the... second? ones bent at 90°, as you demonstrated. Then for the full, the...first knuckles are almost hyperextended back, which lets the seconds be higher
@gordonrobb
5 ай бұрын
@@andymcl92Ah, I know what you mean. I think that's caused by wrapping the thumb over the first knuckle though. Not sure, my fingers don't bend that way even when I'm not trying to crimp 😂
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