@@HowNOT2 could you maybe try some copperheads someday? That would be cool! Greetings from austria!
@dechristophera
3 жыл бұрын
Laughing 5 seconds in. Knew you'd make some sort of joke like that.
@HowNOT2
3 жыл бұрын
I had to. I held back too.
@Alexbeauchesne1
3 жыл бұрын
Brass is really shiny at 3:45 when it experience shear forces. as the molecules get crushed against each other and deform, the texture changes and the gold effect it lost. same if you cut it with a saw (same shear force applies)
@natebracalente2754
2 жыл бұрын
ive cut a lot of brass on bandsaw, lathe and mill. I have never seen it look like that before
@robmckennie4203
Жыл бұрын
nonsense
@SylviaSin
3 жыл бұрын
More tricam tests, please!
@NoName-OG1
3 жыл бұрын
Get well Bobby! This is obviously before your “haircut“ and “ thumb adjustment”
@S_Breaux
3 жыл бұрын
Haha “thumb adjustment”
@jskemp4
3 жыл бұрын
The wires with red plastic I sent. To the best of my knowledge they are from around 1981 but never used. I have a pile of them so I sent a few to Ryan. I’m very impressed that 40 years made very little difference.
@zarpeter_1
2 жыл бұрын
🔥
@stevenculver7228
2 жыл бұрын
Regarding material strength, steel wire is stable over time (compared to soft materials like Dyneema and nylon). While soft materials will lose strength as they degrade over time, metals only lose strength by experiencing high or repeated stresses. Since you never used them, you were not putting any stress on them (e.g. by repeatedly taking falls), so it's not surprising that they maintained their strength.
@bill_simpkins
3 жыл бұрын
Somehow I knew the bonus was going to be a tricam, but was very disappointed it wasn't a pink tricam ;)
@PeregrineBF
3 жыл бұрын
Soon™. Though it'll be a dyneema one, unless someone else sent nylon-slung versions.
@gabrielpoulin2841
3 жыл бұрын
Would love to see real rock break tests. Was really interesting seeing how the cams preformed in different crack and placement variations.
@squirrelspown
3 жыл бұрын
definitely want more tri-cam content
@climbing200
3 жыл бұрын
I would love to see more about the tricams!
@MikeHalsall
3 жыл бұрын
Definitely want to see nuts break tests on real rock! Esp. so I can show it to friends who get a little nervous trusting gear when following! Thanks for all y'all do, gang!
@TheManCave563
3 жыл бұрын
Pink tricam test would be great!
@cobraclarke203
3 жыл бұрын
More tricams!!! Thanks for another fun, funny, fantastic show
@Sicnus
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Ryan and Bobby for all you guys do.
@kellenedmonds963
3 жыл бұрын
My guess on the old hex with the dipped cable is; over time, from use, or even just sitting there, they are exposed to moisture. The coating on the cable made a perfect spot for moisture to get trapped. Even though it's a galvanized cable, any corrosion would have happened there first.
@mountainmandoug
3 жыл бұрын
This was super interesting, I was told years ago that nuts were as strong as their cable and I guess that is true. Thanks for the tricam test, that was really interesting. You guys are doing great work.
@tomtom4405
3 жыл бұрын
Unless it's a small nut in sandstone
@jamesbtrials
3 жыл бұрын
I'd love to see this on real rock! I've whipped on cams but never on a nut. I'd love to see how different style placements affect their hold. Watching your real rock cam tests helped me make better placements!
@Cardsandstoagies
2 жыл бұрын
Spot on with the brassie assessment. They are soldered in with silver solder. It is very strong
@paufiguerasduch6431
3 жыл бұрын
You actually set the tricam on active position, passive position is placed like a nut, with the "rolled pin" on the side of the webbing. Acording to NBS it breaks at lower strength when placed in passive position so it woud be interesting to see that! Great video as always!
@louislax14
3 жыл бұрын
heck yes, those outdoors in situ tests are really interesting, real rocks, real placements!! Probably going to have to wait for bobby to be 100% again!!
@azaba2007
3 жыл бұрын
and oh yes we will love to see the nuts tested on real rock. And another test on hexes placed in parallel (not tapering) cracks.
@g02n2
3 жыл бұрын
Great to see the old school cord slings stand up, I feel so much better about my old gear even though I've retired it.
@robertodeoliveira5735
3 жыл бұрын
Really like the faster edits.
@maxmaeser1001
3 жыл бұрын
Already excited for tricams on Rock (as the bonus of stoppers on rock) 😉😄😄
@sebastienthouement7445
3 жыл бұрын
Yes ! More tricam break tests please ! 😊
@buckmanriver
3 жыл бұрын
Snaping cowbell hexes! Radical!
@FallLineJP
3 жыл бұрын
I would totally join a live “The force is right” game with a few thousand other people 🤣💪
@thepengwn77
3 жыл бұрын
Hexes are life. They make placements where the entire rock face would have to fail for it to pull.
@thepengwn77
3 жыл бұрын
Specifically those Wild Country Rockcentrics, soft slings. And if they get too noisy, you can put a layer of Dynamat on the inside lol
@1337-David
3 жыл бұрын
Definitely need to see a pink tricam tested!!
@robburnett2672
3 жыл бұрын
gunks are all about tricams pink red black!!
@robburnett2672
3 жыл бұрын
I meant brown not black...but mostly pink!!lol
@chigozienri
3 жыл бұрын
How about trying czech-style knots/textile cams, or pebbles and hardware store nuts, like people used to use?
@jasoncornish2904
3 жыл бұрын
I second this. this would be extremely interesting. Also simulate a slung tree and chicken head
@billwoods7531
3 жыл бұрын
This!!
@trillbrown3686
2 жыл бұрын
I think they did this. Basically the knot shrank and almost always fit through the gap.
@Natahalem
3 жыл бұрын
Hi ! I have been gived some olds Hexs from Chouinard Equipement (old name before Black Diamond) by a dude from my alpine club. Of course i have changed every rope and webbing on thoses olds-timers because they are 32 years old mini minimum.. But there is where things gonna interesting ! the holes in the Hex head has been sized for old thicker rope. but i wanted to setup a more thin and lighter rope instead. But because of the size difference the head was mooving too freely, so i have figured to fix that by a creative way, i have cross-twisted the rope inside the head ! It solve my problem but i'm not really aware about how the rope radius is augmtented and how it will affect the solidity.
@kentonanderson3089
3 жыл бұрын
This would be a tough one to film but I would love to see a comparison of similar active/passive placements in different types of stone. I climb in the Red River Gorge a lot and wonder if sandstone there - which is a little less solid than other areas - effects the strength of certain pro (especially tri cams). Perhaps something to consider is slowly collecting videos/data of as you travel around.
@McKmicic
3 жыл бұрын
You are doing a great job. Thanks from Poland
@ecalzo
3 жыл бұрын
I love going on mountains.. i am not a rock climber i usually do iron way i don't know how you call it .. are mountain way on rocks but with all the stuff already in place and with a stainless cable fixed to the mountain every 5m all along the route from the bottom to the top of the mountain way.. BUT i love this video .. Very Very informative about gears and stuff very related to the climber safety.. because some times i use carabiner or ropes and flat ropes.. So really loved the video ... Hi from Italy
@HowNOT2
3 жыл бұрын
We americans have stolen your words. We call it Via Ferrata as well. It is becoming more popular in the US.
@kid5Media
Жыл бұрын
I absolutely love hexes. Started using them from the very first.
@alfrednOObel2
3 жыл бұрын
Of course we want more!
@briancresson2610
3 жыл бұрын
How's the drop tower coming along? Can't wait to see nuts and hexes under some dynamic force!!
@bonefishboards
3 жыл бұрын
Saddle wedges are great in the Gunks. Those channels fit over pebbles and lock those things in.
@danielg8118
3 жыл бұрын
Please bust more tricams I love them, so far the haven't failed even the .75 is super strong
@tincvitkovic6908
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for tricam testing! Can't wait for nuts in rock :) Keep crushing guys!
@HowNOT2
3 жыл бұрын
We will!
@TheMusicLemming
3 жыл бұрын
I'd be really interested to see end-wise placements of hexes, especially hand size or larger. Maybe some more cool collapsing shenanigans? Also would be cool to see off-side placements of nuts.
@Davidadventures
3 жыл бұрын
I have a number of Chouinard Hexcentrics from 1972 that were slung with kernmantle rope. Want a couple to bust? It would be interesting to see how 49 years of existence, and lots of climbing affected their breaking strength. I'm in Santa Rosa and could bring them your way.
@martinbrown9947
3 жыл бұрын
For gear that is consistently breaking at the carabiner attachment, especially cams, would it make a difference if you increase the bend curvature at that connection point by using 2 carabiners to connect or a large diameter steel shackle? Although not a conventional attachment method it would be interesting to see how strong the wire/slings are with the increased bend curvature or if they start breaking consistently elsewhere.
@chriswright7083
3 жыл бұрын
Makes you wonder why manufacturers haven't created a solution to this problem by designing a carabiner with a larger radius at the major load points
@thetylerfish9089
3 жыл бұрын
watching that hex break was so satisfying.
@MrSquishles
Жыл бұрын
breaking at the nut's probably the ideal material efficiency, the cable's cheaper than the machining on those nuts. could just be a difference in design philosophy some companies might just overdesigns the nut then they don't have to worry as much about certification because it'll just do what the cable they stick on it does.
@henrikmolvr3303
3 жыл бұрын
Love the stress test videos!! Can you do a test on different knots? I am very curious about the strength and possibly of untying the Alpine butterfly bend vs fisherman's bend vs figure 8 bend and maby two bowlines to.. if this video is already made pliz show me! Love the LAB! Peace Norway😄
@HowNOT2
3 жыл бұрын
We have an upcoming episode that might answer some of your questions.
@henrikmolvr3303
3 жыл бұрын
@@HowNOT2 sweeet looking forward to it 😄 hitting that Bell 👍
@emanueler
2 жыл бұрын
Love your tests! Keep going - by a serious fun of yours
@zorphias0
3 жыл бұрын
Would love to see tricam and nut placements in real rock! Thanks for doing what you do :)
@matthewjswider
3 жыл бұрын
Free subscription. Love it. Have you tested any ascenders against different thicknesses of ropes?
@owenmcleod1
3 жыл бұрын
Would be cool to see nuts placed in their other other orientation (rotated 90 degrees). And then another neat thing would be passive vs. active placement of same size hex?
@jaqimaddows9895
3 жыл бұрын
Hey Ryan did you ever rerig that cam crusher so it holds cams better? Maybe a couple pieces of gnarly longboard griptape on each inside plate held on with spray epoxy might do the job. Love these tests! Thank you!!!
@funtimenetwork
2 жыл бұрын
Unfortunately you’ve been safe the whole time. Lol Also wow that double fisherman tightening! I’ve always been meh that’s enough tail… durp going to add another inch or so just in case I load it with 20KN of force and I some how manage to survive.
@francismartinevans
3 жыл бұрын
That smashed hex is awesome!
@NateFanning
3 жыл бұрын
Yes please!!!! *REEL ROCK: BUSTING NUTS* up next
@James-un8mm
3 жыл бұрын
Brilliant! Thank you for making this :)
@z1522
8 ай бұрын
Hurrah for Campbell nuts; 2:00, nice inner curved arc for sling. Mine slung with 7mm Spectra, triple fisherman's, I suspect might surpass 20kN. Nothing feels as reassuring as a passive wedge in a constriction, set it and forget it. Cams and bolts just don't invoke the sense of absolute security.
@grigorypostnikov9319
3 жыл бұрын
As always nice video guys! Keep going!
@lifeisgood070
2 жыл бұрын
Overall these are some pretty good engineering designs for this rock climbing stuff
@johnliungman1333
3 жыл бұрын
The red hex breaking like that is probably due to the low friction of your “nut crusher”. The lower the friction the higher the lateral force, and the hex gets squeezed. So this failure mode probably does not translate well to actual usage, since rock has higher friction.
@MB-zs1fw
3 жыл бұрын
More tricams please!
@ryancheney7772
3 жыл бұрын
Can you test different types of slings basket hitched or girth hitched thru the nut's cable loop? Also more tricams=yes
@ep7672
3 жыл бұрын
Wow! Solid gear.
@pentachronic
3 жыл бұрын
On the large hex that got crushed maybe BD can put a cylinder of aluminium inside to oppose the crushing force. Shouldn't be difficult to manufacture since the sling/wire will keep it in place.
@rogerscurlock2927
2 жыл бұрын
I'm entirely unfamiliar with climbing gear, but I am familiar with metallurgy. That looks to me like your "brassy" isn't brass. It could be aluminum, but I suspect it's a steel alloy with a brass layer on top. Allowing the soft bass to slightly deform to increase friction. The silver looks a little too uniform to be friction embedded aluminum.
@theasapsquad
3 жыл бұрын
That hex collapse was pretty nuts
@HowNOT2
3 жыл бұрын
that's a good pun
@drew5334
3 жыл бұрын
I'd definitely like to see the nuts tested in real rock, I feel like the point of failure, especially for the smaller nuts, will likely be where the nut wedges against the rock and how the rock holds up to those forces.
@vihreelinja4743
3 жыл бұрын
Would be interesting to see how tough different rock materials are with the wedges 🤔
@largeformatlandscape
3 жыл бұрын
I’d be interested in testing small brassies with different diameter carabiners.. are super small biners making pro weaker?
@Kalashnigoon
3 жыл бұрын
The larger hex with the ½" webbing doesnt have a larger bend radius, rather it has two 90° radii
@jaqb666
3 жыл бұрын
I guess now I will place my passive protection twice less than before ;)
@weijingburr2392
3 жыл бұрын
"You might die if you use this" "It's rated 6" "Ohhh, Well. it's great then" Hilarious.
@azaba2007
3 жыл бұрын
we want to see tricams in different positions and see how they behave. Very tricky to test that with real people
@carlmarshall387
3 жыл бұрын
Have you considered using skateboard grip tape for the cam adapter in order to create friction.
@Pr0phetEdge
3 жыл бұрын
Still have a set of those BD nuts so glad to know I may not die on them since I weigh a kn
@NatetheAceOfficial
3 жыл бұрын
My group does not love the nut life. Bunch'a CAM lovers! Passive sends are the best sends. Tricams tricams tricams! The best of both worlds!
@HowNOT2
3 жыл бұрын
Unfortunately I may fall into the cam lover camp :P
@NoName-OG1
3 жыл бұрын
Most larger nut designs today induce rotation to include some of those tested - so some are more or less semi passive???? There was some off brand a while back - never saw them in the wild - but was like a two piece wedge nut design - forget what company.... Like two nuts pinned together... Or was it they nested together - can’t remember separately???
@imoldandyoureinmyway
3 жыл бұрын
I would love to see a test of how short the tails of a fisherman's knot can be before the knot fails. Back when we were young stupid and broke, we'd sling nuts with very short tails to get the most "sling" for the money.
@arnoldkotlyarevsky383
3 жыл бұрын
OK, this is a dumb question, Ryan, but in some of your earlier videos. you talk about how aluminum carabiners should not be used as primary attachments at anchors because of cyclic loading. Do you guys have any tests that demonstrate this problem? Do you think you could do a test of that principle? If not, do you have any favorite sources for info on that? Thanks! Again, you guys are making the best test videos of climbing gear on youtube. Love your stuff.
@robertodeoliveira5735
3 жыл бұрын
Machines for cyclic loading are crazy expensive, stuff needs to be loaded tens of thousands of times.
@HowNOT2
3 жыл бұрын
Definitely be interesting to test at some point. As we understand it that principle is more applicable to highline anchors where the wind can generate thousands of cycles. The closer closer you take aluminium to its maximum strength the fewer cycles it can handle. A 24 kn hanger might handle 5,000 cycles at 4 kn but only 10 at 20kn.
@somanayr
3 жыл бұрын
If possible, I'd love to see tests on marginal placements, rather than bomber lab conditions -- I'm curious what kinds of placements do and don't hold!
@stevenculver7228
2 жыл бұрын
Since most of these wires are breaking at the carabiner, they might be breaking higher than rated because you are using a round locking carabiner to attach to the wire. Compared to a smaller wire gate carabiner that would normally be used with these, the bend radius of your carabiner is larger, which decreases the stress concentration on the wire, which potentially is what is making the wires break at a higher load than their rating. I'm curious if there would be any difference in performance if you used a carabiner with a smaller bend radius.
@davidsimpson3885
3 жыл бұрын
should try dmm torque nuts, placed like a nut and under torque and see if there is much difference due to how their placed
@xxanimexnerdxxkelson
3 жыл бұрын
If you guys are looking for audience participation, maybe do some comment contests for the best guess of a break test
@PeregrineBF
3 жыл бұрын
I sent you a set of CAMP dyneema tricams (#0.5, #1, #1.5, #2). Of course I want to see them break tested!
@HowNOT2
3 жыл бұрын
Those are in the box for the next time we go to real rock. Thanks
@PeregrineBF
3 жыл бұрын
@@HowNOT2 I assumed so. Just joking over the "comment below" line!
@patob3363
3 жыл бұрын
"youve earned a free subscription to this channel" "ha, douche" love you man
@elementsgaming2411
3 жыл бұрын
you knew what u were doing with that thumbnail
@mavrickbrand5507
3 жыл бұрын
I love this channel!
@hardcornelson
3 жыл бұрын
In Gegion in Eastern Germany you are not allowed to use Nuts. You have to use Knots. They use them in the same way as you would use a nut but they press them with a peace of wood sometimes. if you want to try this out? i realy want to know about it.
@Sillisify
3 жыл бұрын
Tip for future: convert the lbs to kgs aswell, it takes no time, adds to quality of the video and i'm sure alot of viewers would appriciate :) Great video!
@HowNOT2
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks! We are measuring force not mass. KN (Metric) and lbf are both used to measure force whereas kg and lbs are used to measure mass.
@Sillisify
3 жыл бұрын
@@HowNOT2 But wouldn't it work to convert lbf to kgf? Feels like i don't know what i'm talking about, sorry if it's completely wrong! :D
@theoutdoorangler1173
3 жыл бұрын
Would you guys be so kind to test your body weight and how many KN put on your body during a fall. I’m sure your subscribers would love a video like that lol
@HowNOT2
3 жыл бұрын
We will be doing more tests like this when my new and improved dynos come but this is one we did in the past kzitem.info/news/bejne/zm6wnJWafqOSgqg
@howler6490
3 жыл бұрын
Vindicated!! I carried my big nuts on rope long after other folks had moved onto wires...
@herranenspearguns
3 жыл бұрын
I would bet that the two that broke on the side of the cable eye ,broke there because the cable has has a coating. In my experience with spearfishing any coating on cable is a recipe for trapped moisture and hidden corrosion.
@CotswoldParagliding
3 жыл бұрын
You should break test the Finsterwolder Quick outs
@trombahonker
8 ай бұрын
I like my tricams!
@novielo
3 жыл бұрын
I would like to see more tricam, old tricam. Currious because the first one had nothing in the notice saying how long the sling should last.
@taphaeltube
3 жыл бұрын
More tricams
@zakklillie1880
3 жыл бұрын
Tricams! Tricams! Tricams!
@JoshNeck
3 жыл бұрын
Yes!! TRI cams
@timonix2
3 жыл бұрын
The nuts with rope were much stronger than the ones with wire. That was kind of surprising to me.
@hunterwarren1595
3 жыл бұрын
Test outside!!
@cemlpc
2 жыл бұрын
The red hex that collapsed is clearly not as burly reinforced as the next two hexies. But none failed, actually these things have a lot of power hey?
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