Thanks, mate! I can't overstate how uncommonly useful it is to find someone taking the time to explain what went wonky, what did and did not fix it, and WHY. Whenever I find a video that makes me think "Oh, THAT's why it does that"... saved!
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
That is very kind of you. Thanks for watching!
@saintb6969
7 жыл бұрын
Russ, I ran into a simalr issue with my G0704 but it was to the point that no matter how far the tightening screw was in I could not get the gib tight enough, so I tore apart a feeler gauge and shimmed the gib to make it tight. Worked fine until I dropped the gib and it broke in half. Just for future knowledge if you order a replacement gib for that machine it does not come as the same dimension, it is basically a gib stock that you have to cut down, then find a way to grind it to the correct thickness (belt sander does not work) It took me 3 separate tries before I found a small saw blade sharpening shop that was willing to try and grind it for me because of the angle on it and being able to hold it in a fixture. After they did one and a couple of regrinds to get the thickness to were it was perfect, I was amazed at how much better the machine moved without the wobble any were that I ordered new Gibbs for the Y and Z and had them grind them to fit also, now the whole machine seems to move better with out any binding and wobble. Cost me $80.00 because he had to set it up but the regrinding he did for free on all the rest because the setup was done.
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
That is a crazy story! I'm glad you were able to get it working.
@chriskristopherson9594
7 жыл бұрын
saintb6969 Think I would've put to money towards some linear rails and paying someone with a bridgeport to knock the dovetails off/add a reference edge. I honestly think I could mount a router to the saddle and use that to take down the dovetail enough while adding a reference edge. Not really happy with the G0704 dovetails finish and even after removing considerable material they are not 100% so rails are in my future for sure.
@CNC4XR7
7 жыл бұрын
Good video Rus, It's hard to describe the adjustment process for me it's more of a feel. I want it as tight as possible with out binding, then I back off a little. a little play at the extremes is not that big of a issue the cutting is all done on the center-line of the machine. be Safe, Sam
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks Sam!
@Strawberry_RL
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks for making the video Rus, very informative and exactly what I was looking for!
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
No problem!
@bluehandsvideo
7 жыл бұрын
Nice! I hadn't really thought about the torque not being enough to move the table. Thanks!
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
Hey Mike. Thanks for watching :)
@suzukichopper
7 жыл бұрын
When I did mine (IH mill - other then the Z because my Z apparently needs more help then "basic" stuff), I lubed everything up good, put the gib in and just use the screw to keep it there. I then jogged over (in the opposite direction?) a couple of inches to let the machine figure out where it wanted the gib to be. Tightened the screw to touching, gave it one extra turn and then put in the locking screw. I found after doing that, a half turn more in X would cause binding so any looser was going to be too loose and in Y, another axis that could use some lapping, a 1/4 turn out left me with no binding. A little less time but I guess maybe a bit riskier possibly jamming the gib and table. I too also had the bright idea of checking table movement near the ends and that did nothing but make me chase my tail and get very mad for a couple of hours. Checked near the edges of the Y saddle and only have a few tenths there. Back to the ballscrew conversion on the lathe!
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
Nice! That sounds like a very repeatable method :)
@SmithDrewSmith
7 жыл бұрын
Glad to know I'm not the only one who wasn't able to make other methods work. Thanks for the video!
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
Haha we all seem to be fighting this issue. Thanks for watching :)
@CncObsession
7 жыл бұрын
The only difference in the way I do it is. I install the gib and screw on the tightening side, move that axis in the direction which will cause the gib to get tighter. Then before moving the axis again, tighten the screw again. Then I install the locking screw,
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
Oh sure, make it easy :)
@kentvandervelden
7 жыл бұрын
During the CNC conversion of the Industrial Hobbies mill, when kits were sold, they recommended lapping the ways with and without the gibs installed using ever finer lapping compound, feeling where the tight spots were and applying a little more work there. Probably not as great as scrapping, but anyone can do it, and it helped a lot. Might help with the last 2 inches if you tear it down again.
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
That's not a bad idea, and even if i ruined that last two inches trying to fix it I wouldn't really be out anything. Thanks!
@grahamdodson9277
7 жыл бұрын
I had a similar issue with my table. There was a tiny burr on the dove tail way. I took a flat file and gently removed it. I also lapped my machine in. everything fits together a little better. I used Time Saver lapping compound from McMaster. There was also a thread on CNCZone where a guy scrapped everything in but one axis. On the last axis, he lapped it in and said he got 90% of the result with minimal effort compared to scrapping.
@1pcfred
7 жыл бұрын
Get some Prussian blue too. I was going to say your machine seems so jacked that you've got to be able to make it better. You can't really make it much worse.
@DCT_Aaron_Engineering
7 жыл бұрын
Very informative. Thanks Rus ;-)
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks Aaron!
@1pcfred
7 жыл бұрын
I use chainsaw bar oil on my machine. I really like how it works for me. It made my machine super smooth. But I think your machine may have problems that it won't fix? That play that you showed is bad. I just checked the table on my RF-32 and there's nothing like that going on with it. It is solid like a rock, like it is supposed to be. My lead nut is whooped though. Really, I think it is just loose to the saddle. But that makes my machine walk if I climb mill. One of these years I'll get in there to tighten it up. You can tell that I'm real concerned.
@ecv80
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for all the tips. I have been over tightening my BF20L x axis gib so much, that the adjusting bolt slip over the gib grinding it. I was hoping to see the actual gib tho, since I can't find the drawing and after all the trouble adjusting it I was suspecting my gib was machined mirrored. But it's good you mentioned the left screw is for locking and right one is for adjusting, as that seems to be the case for mine too. The left bolt has a wider head, right? And the gib notch goes on the right against the smaller screw, right? Thank you
@ecv80
3 жыл бұрын
I'll answer myself: no, it's just not possible. My gib has the notch on the right side and after closer inspection it really needs the bigger bolt there, but that one is made to fit on the left side. Turning over the gib isn't an option as its profile is an irregular romboid. Therefore either my gib is a bad manufacture or I'm using the wrong ne and the right one is at the wrong spot too.
@ecv80
3 жыл бұрын
And I answer to myself again: I downloaded a full CAD model of the machine and indeed the bigger end with the notch goes on the right side and with the smaller bolt over it. I just don't get why my bolt slides over the gib so easily. I might have to file the notch down a bit for a better grip and put even less force on adjustment.
@ecv80
3 жыл бұрын
Lastly (hopefully!), I ended up filing down the notch. It did have some sort of chamfer or slope that could have been easing the bolt head to slide over the gib and the other way around. I focused on filing the notch leaning against the inner wall so as to either flatten said chamfer or inverting the slope... it worked! I'm so glad. Now the gib doesn't slide anymore out of place when I tighten the bolt, and it's not like I was putting a lot of force on it before, but definitely not slight. Now that I know it shouldn't be too tight and that I fixed the chamfer, I could finally tighten it just enough. I wonder why they made the cavity for the bolt head so small. The head barely touches on the gib that way and the same that happened to me could happen if you over tighten it or with the axis moves.
@stevebillmire90
7 жыл бұрын
Hey Russ, I just bought a G0704 mill/drill a few days ago. I bought it from a guy that never used it and was sitting collecting dust for 3 years. The G0704 came with the same Glacern vise that you have plus a bunch of tooling. Anyway, I guess what I am trying to get at is. I would like to talk to you about your experience with the G0704. I do have plans on buying a table feed and DRO in the near future. But I would really like to pick your brain about some issues that I am experiencing. Please let me know the best way to get in contact with you. Thanks, Steve
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
You can email me at ultrarusstuff@gmail.com
@pantamorphLLC
7 жыл бұрын
I had planned to try out making some delrin gibs for my x2, may do a video on the whole process and if it works or not
@SmallShopConcepts
7 жыл бұрын
Pantamorph Technologies that's an interesting concept I had also pondered briefly, making inserts out of turcite maybe even, but ultimately that much work wouldn't be any easier than converting to a linear rail setup which would be the ultimate upgrade in my opinion. moving to a pin type roller linear guide like the Hiwin RG series 15mm units would really make a cool little machine especially of you wanted to do aloy of 3D milling. would be great to use their self lubricating bearing cars that maintain a grease preload for X amount of travel and can be reloaded with a grease gun. would simplify a lubrication system tremendously. they just have extended grease fittings for the ballnuts that are easy to access and all you machine lube is now grease which is awesome for linear rails and ballscrews.
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
Interesting! I'll be curious to see how it turns out if you try it.
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
You can't talk Chris out of linear ways :)
@somebodyelse6673
7 жыл бұрын
Has anyone actually done this with a small machine? I see that larger machines with box ways use nonmetallic (turcite, and other teflon based materials) bearing surfaces, but I'm thinking those materials require much wider points of contact to minimize the effect of the softer materials 'squishing' to one side. I considered repairing the worn dovetails on my little Atlas horizontal mill saddle with that kind of thing, but on small dovetails it just seemed so much at the mercy of how rigid that plastic was under side forces. I picture a delrin gib being put under the same kinds of forces, and I just can't see how it would avoid squishing - and tilting. Mechanically it seems like the base of the triangle has to be pretty wide to minimize the effect of the much less rigid material.
@1pcfred
7 жыл бұрын
Yeah it gets real when you are machining ferrous materials. Then any flex at all is going to seriously hose you. Up to ferrous material machining it is a whole different ball game. As softer materials are far more forgiving. If you think about it a machine cutting is basically chiseling its way through the material. Each edge digs in, and carves out a chip. Once you're cutting ferrous material you need the hard hammer, and chisel then.
@sir_wolfart4733
7 жыл бұрын
hey russtuff are you going to more videos of linuxCNC setup and calibration???
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
Yup.
@1pcfred
7 жыл бұрын
There's nothing to it really. You just run stepconf and keep ramping up the speed until your machine stalls. Then back off about 10% or so, and use that as your top speed. I actually just backed off my slowest axis, and used that as my top machine speed. Because some axis are a lot faster than others. For some reason my X axis can go pretty fast. But my Z can't. I actually don't run anywhere near my machine's top speed ever. It can go well over 100 IPM, but I don't run it faster than 50 IPM. I've run X up to 200 IPM. But I trashed the lead nut doing that. It was still fun. But changing that nut wasn't.
@SiGraybeard
7 жыл бұрын
I'm puzzled by something here, maybe because I'm a rookie at this stuff. If the end of the table is moving 10 mils at 8 or 10 inches from the cutting bit, but the center of rotation is under the cutting bit, why does that matter at all? By the time that portion 10 inches away is pulled under the cutting bit, it's under the center of rotation, too. Nothing is getting cut out there.
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
The part where I demonstrated the table "walking" while traveling in the X direction means the end mill is cutting deeper, then more shallow, then deeper, etc. This is what caused the terrible surface finish.
@SiGraybeard
7 жыл бұрын
I'm guessing that means the slop at the cutter must have been less than .001, maybe a tenth or two. Kind of interesting. Can you feel that with a fingernail? It's obvious to look at, but it can't be very large.
@russtuff
7 жыл бұрын
Yes, it is very bumpy. Way more than you need to catch your fingernail.
@1pcfred
7 жыл бұрын
I used to put steps on instrument bases using a surface grinder that were about a thousandth of an inch. You could see that something was going on, but you could really feel it. It's weird. How it is perceived is not obvious at all either. Because you'd think you can see irregularities like that far easier than you can feel them. But that is not the case at all. A thousandth of an inch is about the thickness of a sheet of paper. Look at the edge of a piece of paper. Can you see a plane there? Now imagine that step on another plane. It is just going to look like a line.
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