This video is a side-by-side comparison of a 1995 vintage Rover V8 lifter, to a brand new genuine GM SBC Lifter purchased from Summit racing a few days ago for $185.
Take a look at my other video where I give the lifter a quick inspection (hint, it’s about as good of a lifter as you’ll find ).
This is the first time I’ve dismantled a lifter, and didn’t actually need to take out the piston, but got distracted trying to measure stuff, but ultimately found the piston appears almost identical between the two.
Ultimately, I transferred the cap from the rover lifter into the GM unit, as a trial, and it looks like it’ll all work just fine.
Some folks have successfully used these GM lifters without any mods in the Rover, but the (approximately 20 thou /0.5mm) difference in length measured using a 3/8 dia ball would result in less pre-load; so unless you have longer pushrods, using these lifters in a Rover V8 may not work, unless you’ve machined the block and/or heads quite considerably.
But as can be seen, you can pull the caps off your OEM Rover lifters in just a few seconds, and once you get them cleaned up, transfer to the shiny new GM lifters - but remove the metal disc - the disc is only used for the GM cap (cup?) with the hole in the center (the SBC pushrods are hollow and oil flows up them from the lifter to lube the rockers)!
On assembling into your engine, don’t forget to check you have at least .020 tappet pre-load - but honestly I’d just aim for at least .040 if you have adjustable pushrods or shims.
And make sure you use a good break-in oil, and cam lube. If you’re buying these lifters from Summit Racing, get a few packs of the Driven Racing Oil Assembly Grease 00734 and apply liberally to the lifter foot and cam lobes.
Oh, and don’t take advice from David Williams on the Rover V8 forums / groups whatever you do. He’s occasionally right, but mostly wrong lol.
Sorry for the comical video presentation. I’m just a monkey in a garage not a pro.
Hope this helps!
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