THANK YOU, SIR! FOUR years later and this video is STILL relevant! You nailed the issue I was having, where you said to center and touch the nozzle to the bed, then raise the Z switch until it is JUST touching! All other references I've found leave out that little detail or infer to bring it up until the switch is completely depressed!
@bryantwalley
6 ай бұрын
When you raize the z axis switch do you raise it until it just touches or until it clicks?
@VincentWolfenbarger
4 жыл бұрын
Woah.. you need to tighten the concentric bolt on the y-axis, under the bed. That thing looks like it's wobbling pretty bad at the 2:25 mark of the video.
@michaelschielke290
4 жыл бұрын
You sir, are a life saver. After hours of trying to level the bed, I had one or more corners that were "good" but the others weren't. This is due to not raising the z-axis switch. Thanks buddy.
@kyle7447
5 жыл бұрын
I was having bed adhesive issues and just got one of these. Fixed all of my problems. 👍 would recommend it
@Ninja_Sandwich
5 жыл бұрын
Hi CHEP, I got my first 3D Printer (Ender 3 Pro) a few days ago, literally been watching all your videos, I just want to say thanks for making these, I'm sure it's been helping a lot of other people like it has helped me! Keep up the good job :D
@FilamentFriday
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks. Glad they helped.
@RyushoYosei
5 жыл бұрын
@@FilamentFriday I have to agree, I got my first 3d Printer about a month ago, been finding your videos very helpful, and actually was just about to order the Glass base plate since I bought the Ender 3 Pro, already had upgraded it with the EZABL and that has helped, the only problem is my magnetic bed has -lumps- in it >.< so currently depending on where a print is, some layers of the first one to three are either thin or not printing from the minor variance, n ot that bad on the fact Ihave been learning, but I am getting this so I actually can make sure my prints get more consistant as I get more into it.
@UndernetSystems
6 жыл бұрын
The ringing is most likely acceleration settings on the Y axis being off due to the weight of the glass bed
@TMCHL
5 жыл бұрын
exactly its because of the increased weight...
@anthonyrich1592
5 жыл бұрын
Yes, that is the cause. On Marlin firmware the acceleration settings are also used for deceleration so if you reduce your Y axis acceleration settings you should reduce the ringing.
@drakevelazquez8728
4 жыл бұрын
Anthony Rich long time sense post. But would reducing up axis setting speed slow the speed of print aka print time all together.
@charlescrawford1788
4 жыл бұрын
Hey Chep, I bought this same glass bed and mine came with a coating of glue on the underside. Also, because of the weight, I went ahead and updated the out-of-the-box leveling springs. And yes, I had to raise my z-axis switch to account for the extra thickness. All in all, I'm super happy with the glass bed.
@gunnarbiker
3 жыл бұрын
I'm glad I'm not the only one that levels the bed once the print starts! LOL
@CP-yj4pw
5 жыл бұрын
Hi. Probably someone already told you but the waves you saw on edges are the consequence of increased mass of bed compared to original magnetic plate. Rubber belts is very elastic and this extra mass induced waves when suddenly you pass from X movement to Y movement. You can solve printing at lower speed or changing belts with higher stiffness type. Bye
@Jacob-rt6on
3 жыл бұрын
He said the weight was the issue in the video though lol
@fabulousfoil1279
4 жыл бұрын
Chep, to get rid of that ringing you're going to have to adjust your PID and K values in your firmware. The reason the ringing occurs is because the printer isnt expecting the added weight of the bed so the printer will undercorrect itself when quickly moving around so it doesnt get to that equilibrium position quite as easy the power and stabilizing values in the printer need tweaking just a tad to reduce the ringing. I think TT has a few step by step videos on how to do it, however you will have to update your firmware which can be bothersome if you dont have the correct cables But in the end, you'll have a glass bed printer without sacrificing print quality :)
@AlexGreimann
4 жыл бұрын
@FabulousFoil searched out teaching tech and then youtube in general for a video like you described you. Could you give a hint? :)
@010falcon
4 жыл бұрын
Hey CHEP Look closely as you move the screws on the heated bed for leveling You can see that the Y axis flexes a lot I would recommend to tighten the Y axis rollers I had no issues ith this @500mm/s2 and 80mm/s...
@zsavage1820
2 жыл бұрын
Hope you figured it out by now in 2022... Change the springs will make up for the extra weight...
@christopherj3367
5 жыл бұрын
thank you for the info, rattled my brain thinking "with the 4mm glass height how will I level to bed" and its easy now I have adjusted the mircoswitch on the left.
@just__dave
3 жыл бұрын
I got the same glass bed for my Ender 3 Pro to replace the floppy magnetic bed that came with the unit. It works great. I had to reduce the bed temp from 60 to 50 and found that my prints adhere just fine at that temperature. You do have to wait until the bed cools to remove the prints, however, if you’re impatient and can’t wait that long, I found that if you spritz some isopropyl alcohol at the base of the print upon completion, it helps to detach it without the need for scrapers (which mar the glass). Also, there was no need for binder clips. After a few prints, the glass bed has seemingly glued its self down. The downside is I can’t easily remove the glass bed without some force and potential damage. But that’s okay, it’s easily cleanable with some alcohol.
@blackdog6184
3 жыл бұрын
I would imagine the vapor action of the isopropyl alcohol would help it cool faster.
@JohnHiggins78
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for this video. Just got my E3 a few days ago. Just now getting first decent print going. With my E3, it came with the glass AND the other textured bed, but it was also removable and required clips. Your explanation of putting the nozzle on the glass and then adjusting the Z Limit switch was most helpful for me. I've got both surfaces on the bed now, with clips, and zeroed the Z switch as you said, adjusted bed with glossy paper (original "instructions") and also by eyeballing, and I'm about 20 min into a print of a few modification parts. Thanks! already subscribed :)
@jeremyowen1
Жыл бұрын
The removable magnetic bed that came with the ender 3 pro was phenomenal for about 3 days. Then like an absolute melon I decided to use the included metal scraper due to a fairly stuck part. It stripped the bed so bad that it basically made it bald in several little spots and filament doesn't adhere to it at all. I don't blame anyone but myself.
@serique1323
Жыл бұрын
Haha, dont bļame yourself. I bought acetone and cleaned my biqu b1 plate. Nothing sticks anymore T_T
@DrewBaye
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you! I just received my glass bed this morning and your video was very helpful in setting it up and leveling it.
@johnpeck11
6 жыл бұрын
I took the provided surface to the hardware store. The glass guy cut two plates out of scrap. Total cost $2.00. I swap the plates when it becomes a mess about every week. I run the dirty one through the dishwasher and store it . If I need to light clean the plate afterwards I use 50/50 water and white vinegar. No issues with adhesion.
@truantray
5 жыл бұрын
Bullshit.
@danypigeon4092
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you. You made my son’s Christmas and a father happy!
@nimr0d85
5 жыл бұрын
Litte update: The latest Ender 3 since summer 2018 do not have glued standard beds any more. They are fixed just using clips and can be taken off just like the glass bed.
@SmallSpoonBrigade
5 жыл бұрын
I noticed that, I got my a week or so ago and the mat was just attached via a couple binder clips. It appeared that they also added a clip to the boden tube so I didn't have to add that. It looks to me like they've gotten most of the little issues resolved as mine printed quite well with minor assembly.
@fhuber7507
5 жыл бұрын
Look at the bottom of the clipped on OEM bed. You can see air bubbles between the fiberglass and the printing surface. Those air bubbles mean high spots. The air bubbles grow as the glue out-gasses...
@ChrisRiley
6 жыл бұрын
Cool Chuck thanks! Looking forward to your findings on the ringing.
@Ziplock9000
4 жыл бұрын
1:55 If you reposition the switch so that it's just touching BUT NOT ACTIVATING, then you'll damage the head when it needs to go lower to activate the switch.
@dreamsprayanimation
3 жыл бұрын
High IQ observation.
@tylerreed5132
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks. You just helped me level the bed with glass perfectly! Just had to move my z stop up a little.
@DaddyyCrab
3 жыл бұрын
Hey Chep, does the magnetic layer stay on the bed or is it removed before installing glass bed
@rb.867
2 жыл бұрын
I level the bed using x,y and a 00.03 feeler gauge,which is the thickness of paper. The print comes out precise
@FilamentFriday
2 жыл бұрын
Paper is typically 0.08 to 0.1 mm so 0.03 is far closer to zero so that would make sense.
@unitruth
4 жыл бұрын
I'm seeing some videos where guys are not using any adhesion material at all FOR PLA. They're just washing their glass with dishwashing detergent and not touching it with their fingers. I know creality says isopropyl alcohol but some of these guys are saying that isopropyl alcohol leaves a thin layer of hydrocarbons on the glass.
@kentharris7427
5 жыл бұрын
I don't use clips or glue at all on the glass bed. Once the bed temperature reaches 60 C your not able to lift the bed off the metal plate at all. I like your method of adjusting the bed on the fly. It makes it short work adjusting it.
@georgelouie5330
5 жыл бұрын
great video.. I was going to print a shim the same thickness as the glass and use that to gauge how far to move the Z-stop switch up the vertical extrusion.
@aellis6692
5 жыл бұрын
im using your method
@himynameisoleg
5 жыл бұрын
Liked seeing your leveling method, I had tried the recommended paper calibration but this works much better for me too!
@SmallSpoonBrigade
5 жыл бұрын
I think this is something that isn't made adequately clear to beginners. The paper calibration is just to get you close enough that you can do the live leveling. One detail that I wish he would have mentioned is to run the machine at quarter speed while you're doing it so that you have more time.
@peekpt
6 жыл бұрын
Well you add mass to the bed all elastic things like belts and springs will go further. The only thing you can do is adjusting acceleration and jerk. Tightening the belts and springs will help too.
@peekpt
6 жыл бұрын
Linear advance will help a lot too because it naturally deacellerates on the corners
@markjones2349
3 жыл бұрын
I bought one today at MicroCenter for $18. Update: PLA sticks incredibly well. Haven't tested ABS yet.
@Gormadt
6 жыл бұрын
From the video it looked like the bed on your Ender 3 was wiggling with pressure really easy, I would check the eccentric nuts attached to the rollers under the bed. They needed adjusting on my and it fixed my ringing problem I was getting.
@FilamentFriday
6 жыл бұрын
I had to loosen mine or I got binding and messed up prints.
@Gormadt
6 жыл бұрын
Gotcha, for me it about a day a fiddling to find the balance between binding and ringing.
@toyotatrd
5 жыл бұрын
Thank do telling how to install it I was wondering g how to move the z stopper axis thingy
@fhuber7507
5 жыл бұрын
Pull the fiberglass and printing surface bed... and you don't gain as much height. Also it will heat the glass faster and have the bed temperature more accurate. In essence you left a double layer insulator between the bed heater and the glass. And leaving the OEM print surface between adds weight which means adding momentum when the bed is moving, amplifying the Y axis issues.
@FilamentFriday
5 жыл бұрын
Mine doesn’t have a fiberglass bed surface. It’s a Buildtak material that is stuck to the aluminum and I still want that sometimes.
@mshane86
6 жыл бұрын
Thank you! I couldn't get my cr-10 mini leveled because of warped glass, I did exactly what you did, adjusting while it's printing and then starting over, and got my first print done! Maybe now I'll ditch the glass completely... But I like glass... We'll see.
@FilamentFriday
6 жыл бұрын
Some people buy 12” mirrors from Lowe’s and use them on CR-10. You can cut them down to fit mini.
@wilsonyeobl
4 жыл бұрын
Got a flat polycarbonate a4 clipboard to replace the cmag sheet for my enders3 pro. Just cut to size and clip on like a glassbed. Works amazing well with PLA. Board is more flat then the cmag sheets. Only cost me 2usd for a clip board.
@pjanoo6973
4 жыл бұрын
I find that two clips are sufficent, Most of the time I can get the piece off with my hands without a scraper but when I do need a scraper its easier to remove it from the bed to scrape and not damage the printer.
@StanCook
6 жыл бұрын
I picked up that Creality 3D base to and use it on my Alfawise, a clone of the CR10. I LOVE it! I tried many but this one is a winner. Holds tight when the bed is hot and lifts right off when the bed it cool. All I do before a print is wipe it with a rag. Also, I installed the SD card ribbon but had to cut off the top part and then flip it around so the Filament Friday. com words are upside down but works fine. Thanks for all you do. I'm proud to be a Patrion Supporter, more should.
@FilamentFriday
6 жыл бұрын
Your support is appreciated.
@TheKondicional
4 жыл бұрын
Hi CHEP, great video as always! Did you change your original temperature settings: 205 NOZZLE, 50 BED - when switching to the glass bed?
@Agbondimi
4 жыл бұрын
Yes, this was the first thing that came to my mind when I've mounted the glass. Do we need to adjust the bed temperature because of the glass (for PLA)?
@tbass0224
2 жыл бұрын
Hi CHEP, this new glass bed is definitely thicker. How does one adjust the offsets with this new bed, so I'm in the right ballpark to begin bed leveling?
@Ghost-ru4oz
2 жыл бұрын
Been having issues with my ender 3. Got a creality glass bed and was working great until the nozzle has been higher and higher from the bed causing the filament to release from the bed and get pulled around. Trued adjusting my Z stop and bed leveling but nothing seems to work. Any suggestions?
@wildy9000
6 жыл бұрын
I bought that same Creality glass a month ago. At first I cannot get good adhesion for ABS at 100 deg C bed temp. Then read from Aliexpress feedbacks to use 110 deg C. It did work but I still get a lot of warping at corners. Same problem when printing large objects using PLA. Then I tested printing with an enclosure. Warping was reduced but I'm still not happy with the outcome. Tried improving the enclosure, but the Ender 3 frame is getting scary hot for long prints. All these trial and error is just too much effort. Finally I gave up and went back to the original Buildtak type surface.
@The_Blue_Portal
6 жыл бұрын
I've had this issues with this also/ You may be printing to hot. try lowing you nozzle temp in 5 degree increments. for PLA i used 195-200 depending the manufacture of filament. i haven't tried with abs yet.
@wildy9000
6 жыл бұрын
@@The_Blue_Portal Thanks for the suggestion. Will try soon even if with a doubt, since ABS is so easy to peel off the ultrabase material even when hot. I like to see this work since the bottom finish look so nice. People won't believe its from a 3d printer.
@The_Blue_Portal
6 жыл бұрын
William Chong no problem it actually a common misconception printing hot will help with adhesion. On the first layer heat is your friend but the higher you go up the more it becomes you enemy. It’s the contraction of the filament as it cools which lifts your prints so the hotter it comes out the more it’ll contract.
@truantray
5 жыл бұрын
Exactly my experience.
@madrian_hello
6 жыл бұрын
I just installed Bltouch and I love my prints on pure glass without glue. 🙃👍
@jord9261
4 жыл бұрын
I was hoping this would be a solution to my bed issue. My standard bed is bent upwards towards the center making any large prints impossible as leveling it across the whole surface isn't possible, if this just sticks over the top of the current bed this doesn't really solve my issue but I'll keep looking. Great video man!
4 жыл бұрын
My Ender 3 Pro with the magnetic base has the same problem. I solved it by using another KZitemr's tip: place a post-it under the magnetic mat where it dips. Problem solved.
@renmaru4485
4 жыл бұрын
my ender 3 has same problem too. corners are lower than middle
@williamwiese9963
Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much sir, fixing to order these glass beds. I found out the long way my bed is high in the middle😖.
@JRBaker-fq3br
4 жыл бұрын
A couple of suggestions from me. One don't forget to adjust the Z stop switch when mounting the glass bed. I did the first time I tried and couldn't get it adjusted. How do you know when it's adjusted correctly? Adjust it until it clicks. Second if you decide to use Binder clips any size from 3/4 inch up will work. I originally used 1-1/4 " clips and they took up a lot of space and if I put them near the corners it was hard to get to the bed screws. Now I have 3/4" clips and there's a lot more room on my bed.
@trevorward85043
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the vid Chuck. I'm hoping to add and Ender 3 soon to my MP Select 2.1 as something to have better detail. I've thought about a glass bed and will be watching closely to see what you do here. Cheers!
@BruceLyeg
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you, your videos have been extremely helpful
@xXTheBl4ckC4tXx
4 жыл бұрын
Why is the glass not directly on the metal, just like the CR-10?
@FilamentFriday
4 жыл бұрын
Early Ender 3’s like this machine had the Buildtak bed material stuck to the aluminum.
@xXTheBl4ckC4tXx
4 жыл бұрын
@@FilamentFriday I thank you for the answere, I though I was doing something wrong for almost a year now even though the prints have 0 issues. I wish my CR10-mini were as good, but can´t get it perfect only very good. Your KZitem channel helped a lot.
@vegas11t
6 жыл бұрын
My later version came with a removable BuildTak type with clips, ordered the glass upgrade, mine came with the next size up clips included.
@_________bowman4081
3 жыл бұрын
Hey I just put my new glass bed on my ender 3 pro, adjusted the z stop and I cannot get any prints to attach to the glass bed
@mariolarosa8242
3 жыл бұрын
Buy some Bed Weld or use some glue
@naufrage0
3 жыл бұрын
Same. They come off after about 5min. I’ve tried hair spray. Will have to grab some glue. I wonder if it could be too fast
@brockst.croix-smith7709
3 жыл бұрын
Dollar store gluestick works awesome! the washable one.
@voldy3565
2 жыл бұрын
Will a glass bed help with a warped bed?
@FilamentFriday
2 жыл бұрын
Typically yes.
@mrajay194
2 жыл бұрын
If the glass isn't warped, yes.
@matthew33721
2 жыл бұрын
Hey @Voldy356 👋 yes! It will. If you're trying to correct a warped bed I'll give you a few tips how! Make sure your glass is not warped (this works better buying thicker glass at home depot and cutting it to size) You then mount the bed and clip ON ALL 4 CORNERS don't force anything but don't be afraid if it's not sitting flat, as long as you're not bending anything! Once it is clipped turn your bed temp up to around 65 and let it sit! Let it cool and heat it again do this and your heat bed will eventually conform. Now it's possible your glass will warp so I recommend cutting 2 glass beds for soley trying to take the warp out of your board and then after your bed has conformed as flat as you'd like, slap your new glass bed on, level, and get back to printing! If you need anything dm me and I will get back to you asap. Warped beds are the worst!
@Popesta
6 жыл бұрын
i just use 3mm glass its very light. The same type of glass used in picture frames. You wouldnt want to drop anything on it though it would crack very easily but i have had some stubborn prints where i put too much glue down and had to basically chisel them with my scraper to get them off and never broken one. I did break one when i dropped a stepper motor on it when i had been fixing it and cracked it. But very cheap to replace it only cost me $3 AUD
@GRPZ66
6 жыл бұрын
Just in time video. I just got a Ender-3 with the glass bed. Have not used it yet. Hoping you get to the cause of the ringing and let us know. Nice one.
@mazzam10
Жыл бұрын
just what I was looking for, thank you from Argentina :D
@ExplodingWaffle101
4 жыл бұрын
is your bed still this shaky 2:20 when you adjust it? i have an ender 3 pro (maybe the 4040 for the y axis helps?) and its never that bad when i adjust the bed! i did make sure the y axis was tightened when i assembled it.
@Duewester
4 жыл бұрын
I was about to note the same thing when I read your comment. That loose bed with the added extra weight of the glass is an issue. I'm looking at a glass bed due to some uneven bed heating issues so this was a good vid to watch. I will make sure my bed is nice and tight (it is currently) when I install a glass plate.
@ambikesandboards
4 жыл бұрын
Music is too damn loud, had to turn it down, then back up to hear you voice
@Collinormous
3 жыл бұрын
I've spent the last 4 hours trying everything I could to get anything to stick to this glass bed. Never had many problems with the factory bed, just thought maybe my prints would be better with glass. Well, maybe they would be better if anything would stick.
@Dealman15
3 жыл бұрын
I'm in the same boat, got the Creality carbon glass one with a fancy schmancy coating supposed to eliminate the need for using tape, gluesticks or hairspray. Doesn't matter how I level the bed, how slow it prints or my bed/nozzle temp - the PLA always come off at some point. It's infuriating to say the least. I noticed that even with the glass bed, my bed is still warped towards the center. So I think my aluminium bed is simply too warped to make the printer useable at all. Currently trying to look into a way to get it properly flattened locally... :/
@Skaterboichen
3 жыл бұрын
@@Dealman15 for wraping you can use manual or automatic bed leveling
@Dealman15
3 жыл бұрын
@@Skaterboichen ABL is expensive, but is an upgrade I will get eventually. As for mesh bed leveling - yes it helps, but it can only do so much with a badly warped bed.
@Collinormous
3 жыл бұрын
@@Dealman15 I stuck a PEI sheet to the glass bed and that worked great for about a week until the PEI wore out and stopped sticking. I'm back on the factory bed, with a custom Marlin firmware I compiled with Unified Bed Leveling and a custom mesh to compensate for the warped factory bed. Many hours have been spent to basically finally have prints coming out as you'd expect. Lots of tinkering.
@Dealman15
3 жыл бұрын
@@Collinormous I've bought a BLTouch, am in the process of installing it as I didn't get the full kit. I've heard a lot of good things about the PEI sheets so I may check that out next. Didn't know they wore out that quickly...? :S
@RickSpeer
5 жыл бұрын
I was watching your videos that used the Ender 3 because I just got one. I bought the glass bed plate as soon as I ordered the printer and didn't realize it came with a removable plate. Now I wish I didn't get the glass. The plate that comes with it really works well. I saw in the video when you were adjusting the height your table wobbled quite a bit. The weight of the glass would probably make your bed more unstable I would think. Maybe this was the reason for the ringing? I watched my bed to see if mine wobbled at all while adjusting it and it is tight as a drum. It came with the bearings loose making the table wobble badly but I adjusted them and it seems quite solid now.
@johnsabilla5897
5 жыл бұрын
did you get the Ender 3 Pro? If so, you must've gotten the removable magnetic bed. That works well but after a couple of print it will also warp. Glass bed is the way to go if you print a lot.
@FilamentFriday
5 жыл бұрын
I still prefer glass for some prints as I showed in this video: kzitem.info/news/bejne/znqE1WWvsnmgpn4 It’s nice to have the options.
@RickSpeer
5 жыл бұрын
@@johnsabilla5897 No I got the Ender 3 Standard straight from Creality. I figured they would give me the latest version hoping for a updated firmware version. I print some ABS so I didn't want the magnetic bed. I'm sure the glass will be fine. It's cheap enough but that fiberglass build sheet that came with it works awfully well too.
@aellis6692
5 жыл бұрын
you can upgrade the springs under the bed to help with the extra weight that's what i did
@danielschumacher9427
4 жыл бұрын
My glass plate isn't going off from the heat bed of my ender 3. I need help.
@danielschumacher9427
4 жыл бұрын
I got it finally. Heat it up to 40 or 50°C and then try it again
@techmorning
5 жыл бұрын
Mine came with that bed but it's kind of hollow in the center
@wuldiba
6 жыл бұрын
Definately giving some thought on pulling the trigger on one of these.......
@paulcumber4732
6 жыл бұрын
Hey chuck I'm thinking order a ender 3 3d printer is that a good 3d printer
@FilamentFriday
6 жыл бұрын
It’s decent. I like the CR-10 mini better.
@electronJarvs
6 жыл бұрын
I have one and would not buy anything else from creality...poor quality control and when things fail they ignore you.
@gjheydon
6 жыл бұрын
I don't know if this is right, I am only guessing, but since this is only in the Y axis and the X axis is ok, I am wondering if adjusting the power on the stepper driver so that when the printer deccelerates the Y motor it has a little more grunt to stop the vibration. Or it could be that the belt on the Y axis needs tightening so there is less backlash.
@rbutram
6 жыл бұрын
Great video Chuck. I think with most modifications on these printers there is always a trade off. This plastic sticks well and releases easier the trade off is the ringing. I wonder if slowing down the print speed would reduce the ringing and then your only trade off would be time. :-P
@hardcoreplatypus5735
3 жыл бұрын
This is probably a stupid question, but when replacing the bed, should I just place the new glass bed surface directly on the existing printing surface? Or do I remove the existing surface and set the glass directly on the metal surface? Sorry for the dumb question, total beginner here
@FilamentFriday
3 жыл бұрын
Either works. It’s your choice.
@hardcoreplatypus5735
3 жыл бұрын
@@FilamentFriday Thanks!
@AlexG207
3 жыл бұрын
@@FilamentFriday When the new bed is put on should the levelling nuts be tightened down at all?
@shaunpx1
4 жыл бұрын
Should you take off the original bed mat before putting the glass on or use them both? Also is there any heating variations or loss of heat from the glass?
@FilamentFriday
4 жыл бұрын
Raise the temp 10° for glass
@nOzdrOIIIIIO
2 жыл бұрын
This bed is the greatest dissapointment from CREALITY so far...i bought three of them for my Ender 3s and Ender 5, and since I have them installed (followed all tips how to make it work like cleaning it with soap water, cleaning it with alcohol etc.), I am stucked and none of my printers is currently able to print anything, because this glass bed isnt capable of holding anything on itself. I am running CURA and printing PETG on 240 degrees and 90 on bed (even with 85-80 is PETG warping). I am actually quite desperate, and i dont think the problem is in calibration (used your perfect gcode, many thanks for that CHEP). Is there something I could try or it is simply impossible to print PETG on it??? Thanks in advance.
@multimargejta123
2 жыл бұрын
Same here...
@gerrykavanagh
2 жыл бұрын
I'm a bit confused by the implication here... the print shows ringing, yes, this is beyond dispute, but why would bed material influence this? There is obviously something I am missing here. Would you mind clarifying please?
@FilamentFriday
2 жыл бұрын
Glass is heavier and its then moving back and forth
@gerrykavanagh
2 жыл бұрын
@@FilamentFriday many thanks. Makes perfect sense.
@tyjack1702
Жыл бұрын
Fast movements
@peten6445
2 жыл бұрын
I just printed the alien face huger top on the glass. It’s looks great but way too hard to remove. Went back to the magnet one
@frankiifrankii
3 жыл бұрын
I have a glass bed I got for my printer which is different to your printer . It has a auto leveling sensor and I can’t work out how to adjust the level for the slightly thicker glass bed . And also the sensor does not work on glass unless I stick some foil on the bed . How do you adjust the sensor because I moved it to clean and how to adjust the setting of the home point after you set the new zero on the z axis for the glass because mine keeps going back to the original home point level after I set the new z axis zero level . And is there a sensor that works for glass . Thnx
@StanCook
5 жыл бұрын
Yes, a little soap and water did the trick. Now just wipe with a dry rag and it works great
@avejst
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing😀👍 Interesting test 👍
@SheeshMaster64
4 жыл бұрын
You didn't really show what to do with the switch, all it looked like you did was loosen then retighten the screws
@saltysteel3996
3 жыл бұрын
He moved it up about 4mm higher.
@rachelboothe5075
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this video. I understand until about 1:50 into the video., What exactly are you doing there? I know you are adjusting the home position, but I am not sure what you are unscrewing on the side of the printer or how you know how to set it. Is there anyway you can explain it in basic terms for me? I am very basic in my mechanical knowledge. Thank you and I appreciate you taking the time to make these videos. They have been very helpful.
@TheNigaHigaFan4Ever
4 жыл бұрын
Not Chuck, but he is adjusting homing z homing switch because the bed is higher than the original bed, that means that the nozzle will come in contact with the glass bed if you dont do it.
@mgoldenberg101
4 жыл бұрын
If my original bed is warped, will I have issues with bed heating if I place the glass one on top since it might not be completely touching in all areas?
@FilamentFriday
4 жыл бұрын
I doubt it. Guess it depends on how warped it is.
@UDoIt2
6 жыл бұрын
"ender 3" rank 5! 700 views in 8 hours? Doing well man!
@JRBaker-fq3br
4 жыл бұрын
I would like to know how far you raised the Z cutoff switch. Did you go to full contact or at the initial point of contact.
@FilamentFriday
4 жыл бұрын
When it clicked
@Iosifavich
3 жыл бұрын
I picked up this glass bed for my Ender Pro and im having a lot of sticking problem, basically nothing sticks at any temp. I got the bed level and never had any problems with the magnetic print base. I have tried bed temps at 50c, 60c, 70c. I have tried 3 different filaments, tried different extruder temps from 190c to 210c. I'm pretty frustrated at this point, I actually get better adheasen when i flip the glass over and put the bottom up. But my prints still break free creating a birds nest. Im open to any suggestions.
@FilamentFriday
3 жыл бұрын
Clean it with isopropyl alcohol or even soapy water.
@thedoctor1126
3 жыл бұрын
Also On these glass beds, they are only "sticky" on one side. Try flipping the glass over and printing then. Make sure to clean it with isopropyl first though as CHEP said.
@multimargejta123
2 жыл бұрын
I have this bed, and...tried cleaning it with, acetone, IPA, ethanol, with soap, and tried printing PLA,PETG and even ABS, tried printing anywhere from 50 to 110C as bed temperature, and nothing sticks to it...
@multimargejta123
2 жыл бұрын
Found out that its the nozzle that is making the problem, I had steel nozzle, and changed it to brass... replacing the nozzle solved all problems.
@ryanthompson7884
2 жыл бұрын
@@multimargejta123 great to hear you resolved the problem!
@niefachowy
2 жыл бұрын
@@multimargejta123 i have the same issue but i have a brass, E3D nozzle and nothing 🙈
@rolandthsive
3 жыл бұрын
I was experimenting with ultrabase a while ago, basically i bought a creaity, unbranded and a anycubic ultrabase, i speculate its all the same plates. I saw that when you use acetone/isopropyl alcohol to clean the plate, it only works for 1-3 prints but if you use methyl alcohol (brûler alcool, thats what its called here in France), you just have to clean it like twice a week. Sometimes i dont even clean it for week and it works like a charm. I have been using this method for 4 months and saw no damage to the plate whatsoever. I hope my information was useful.
@FilamentFriday
3 жыл бұрын
I believe that’s also known as methanol which is nasty stuff. Very flammable and bad for the skin. I prefer soapy water. Seems to work well for me.
@gregoetker1389
6 жыл бұрын
You may need to adjust the driver voltage on the Y Axis
@ShopperPlug
Жыл бұрын
Do you need to use the stock mat to use the glass bed or can use the glass bed directly onto the aluminum bed surface?
@FilamentFriday
Жыл бұрын
Either way works.
@DanPRC
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this quick review. I’m glad you mentioned the mini because I want this glass for my mini. Does this glass fit the mini and if it doesn’t, can it be cut? Thank you.
@JValor
3 ай бұрын
I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro, and my magnetic sheet glued to the Aluminum Heater Bed is now fused to the glass bed I bought. I am going to remove it, but I need to know - can the glass bed just be laid directly on top of the alluminum heater bed? Will heat transfer and expansion be of any issue?
@jeremy6384
2 ай бұрын
Thank you, I am wondering this too!
@FilamentFriday
2 ай бұрын
Yes, many printer that came with glass beds did just that.
@JValor
2 ай бұрын
@FilamentFriday Thank you! I'll also add in that i switched from Glass to a 4mm thick piece of Garolite... I can't believe I have never heard of this magical build surface before.
@jeremy6384
2 ай бұрын
@@JValor is that an actual bed or is it just stuff you turned into a bed?
@JValor
2 ай бұрын
@jeremy6384 It's an actual bed, people just for some reason never come across it.. I have used all build surface types commercially available abd G10 is BY FAR the best in my case. Stiffness/flatness close to glass, ease of use of PEI, and literally cheaper than both! Even better, it gives you mirror finishes on the bottom of your prints and won't danage your nozzle in the event of a collision!
@mistersamdi
3 жыл бұрын
Great video, I am looking into upgrading my stock Ender 3 bed, but I don't want to sacrifice quality. a) is the difference in quality considerable in your opinion? b) has changing print speeds mitigated this? thanks for your input and making great videos!
@FilamentFriday
3 жыл бұрын
This does really affect quality. It just gives you a more level build surface.
@AnglinTexas
3 жыл бұрын
@@FilamentFriday I'm thinking he is worried about the waving that was occurring around the Y, and is asking if having to deal with that effect is worth the upgrade.? What settings need to be adjusted to mitigate this effect?
@tomday2942
2 жыл бұрын
Hey Chep, I recently bought this bed, it works great and is very level although when it cools I can't remove the prints. Any suggestions on what could be causing this? I print at 65C for PLA and have a cr touch installed on my ender 3. Do you think I might have my bed fractionally too close to the nozzle?
@FilamentFriday
2 жыл бұрын
Yeah. Increase Z offset.
@tomday2942
2 жыл бұрын
@@FilamentFriday Thank you! Keep making great videos 👍
@broderp
2 жыл бұрын
I'm not CHEP but I also have this issue. I measure the height of my first layer with digital calipers. If I print at 0.28 layer, i typically measure around 0.25, pretty close to the desired layer requirement. Not much room to raise Z offset. What I'm testing in conjunction with the first layer height accuracy is bed temp. If you're doing PLA, 65C may be too high. I print PLA at 50C and still hd removal issues. I tried 40C and prints were much easier to take off. Try it.
@AaronFlaming
5 жыл бұрын
Chuck, I just watched this video for the first time... good stuff. But, please don't use a scraper on that type of bed, you will take the coating right off of it.
@FilamentFriday
5 жыл бұрын
I typically let it cool but when making videos I often don’t have the time. I’m careful and the material is stronger than you think. Ive never scraped it off and I have this on multiple printers.
@SmallSpoonBrigade
5 жыл бұрын
He's using pyrex for the bed material. I don't think I've ever seen a pyrex dish scratched by metal scrapers or knives. I wouldn't be reckless about it, but it's probably not going to damage anything.
@MarekZpe3n
3 жыл бұрын
Does the nozle leave scratches on glass if its too close to it? Thanks for your answer, happy printing Chep.
@FilamentFriday
3 жыл бұрын
It can.
@EASTCAMDEN4LIFE
3 жыл бұрын
Yes it happened to me setting the nozzle height
@WallyB_
4 жыл бұрын
@chep, I've been watching all your videos to prepare for a Ender-3 printer (First 3D printer). Was expecting to be waiting weeks+ till China Shipment made it, but an Ender 3 Pro, with Same Glass Bed, and a MicroSwiss Extruder became available locally, so I picked it up today. Was Caught off guard being a 3Dprinter Owner ahead of plan. Had trouble leveling using that Sticker Technique you taugh in another video.. This ** AS-YOU-PRINT Leveling method ** in this VIDEO...WORKED LIKE A CHARM (better!!). (One question. I downloaded your CHEP-Bed-Level Test code, sliced it, and why does it print Outer Rings first and works inward. In your video it's the other way around, and make more sense that way)..Many thanks for all your videos so far. I've watch all kind of Print Help Video's, and your's are the best, and keep me coming back (It's your fine points and Experience)
@loganmacks7836
2 жыл бұрын
Question, i changed my bed to a glass bed and started getting extreme stringing and blobs. Found that when I took “zhop when retract” off the stringing stopped. Yet, before I used zhop when retract with my original bed it worked perfectly fine. Is there something im missing? Should I just print without zhop for the rest of my time? I like the idea of using zhop because it eliminates the possibility of my extruder knocking my print off my bed. Any advice helps, thank you for all that you do.
@FilamentFriday
2 жыл бұрын
I doubt it has anything to do with the bed. Try this: kzitem.info/news/bejne/sH1tvZlubH9mmpg
@loganmacks7836
2 жыл бұрын
@@FilamentFriday that’s what I thought, now my extruder isn’t even extruding, it made a LOUD beeping noise and won’t extrude filament at all. I don’t know what the heck is going on. When I raised the z-homing switch, is there anything I’m supposed to do following that? (Aside from leveling the bed of course.) set home offset? Anything?
@FilamentFriday
2 жыл бұрын
Nope
@WhereNerdyisCool
5 жыл бұрын
I'm curious, many months later, if adjusting the acceleration or jerk settings helped reduce the ringing?
@FilamentFriday
5 жыл бұрын
Slightly but not completely.
@jmpiv4
4 жыл бұрын
I just ordered the bed I curious if you think he Ender 3 Pro would have less ghosting due to having a double size z axis
@FilamentFriday
4 жыл бұрын
Nope. Ghosting comes from weight of bed and acceleration.
@jmpiv4
4 жыл бұрын
Well thank you for the speedy reply 😁
@hkshks3979
4 жыл бұрын
Why don't people just use a feeler gauge?
@ludovic2003
4 жыл бұрын
How do you resolve the problem that the extruder would hit the bottom left clipper, particularly when it starts from the home position?
@videotracx
4 жыл бұрын
Yiping Han, Move the Paper Clip to the RIGHT so it won't hinder the head passing by it. For GLASS, I cut a rubber intertube to size and fit it to the inside of the Clips and used SUPER GLUE to hold it. It prevents the surface from being scratched. A bit of overkill but it worked.
@axelmonaco1597
5 жыл бұрын
Hello Chuck! Thanks for the videos and profiles! I have your Cura Profile for Cura 4.0 and I added a glass bed, can you share your jerk and acceleration settings? I saw that you were changing them to minimize the ghosting. Thanks in advance!
@PotatoMaGobinus
4 жыл бұрын
Where can I get those settings?
@FilamentFriday
4 жыл бұрын
I settled on 500 and 8.
@Tylorboland100
3 жыл бұрын
I just bought this glass bed for my ender 3 pro. I'm using ABS at 240°C and 100°C with bltouch. The layers are perfect but I can't get it to stick to the bed at all. How can I fix this?
@KONODIODA
3 жыл бұрын
Use some hair spray or glue stick
@Tylorboland100
3 жыл бұрын
I've used both over the last 4 years and never had any good results. I did order some bed adhesive glue from Amazon and I'm hoping it'll work great
@nawgee
3 жыл бұрын
@@Tylorboland100 What ended up happening after you ordered the bed adhesive glue? I am printing with PLA and don't want to have to use adhesives, but at this point I'm open to other options.
@Tylorboland100
3 жыл бұрын
@@nawgee it works like a charm. I have to be careful not to use too much otherwise I can't get the print off the bed. It works on pla, abs, and petg. It's about $18 on Amazon
@Grant849
3 жыл бұрын
@@Tylorboland100 yea it's bed weld, but it's so annoying to have to use it every print when other printers like anycubic have amazing glass beds that require no adhesive
@noodlenomnom6746
Жыл бұрын
Great Video. I recently piurchased this bed for my ender 3 and i have been dealing with some pretty bad warping and my prints just not sticking well enough. I have raised the temp and done a few other things but is there someething else I should adjust?
@FilamentFriday
Жыл бұрын
The glass is warped? Clean it with isopropyl alcohol.
@noodlenomnom6746
Жыл бұрын
@@FilamentFriday I've cleaned it before they print :(
@FilamentFriday
Жыл бұрын
Sounds like a defective glass bed. Warped and not sticking.
@therepublicrestored
Жыл бұрын
It's possible you could fix a warped glass bed if you have a torch and a flat metal surface. Whichever side is raised higher in the middle, place that face down and then intermittently hit it with a torch for 2 seconds at a time spiraling from outer layer to the center. Let cool then hold sideways to test level.
@johnoliver1834
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Chep for your reply. But do you know if there is a problem with rpthe glass sticking to the plate IF the membrane is NOT removed. Your videos have taught me a lot, so thanks for you good work.
@FilamentFriday
2 жыл бұрын
No, I don’t believe it will stick.
@parker1ray
4 жыл бұрын
I always adjust level on the fly! It is in fact the best way.
@FilamentFriday
4 жыл бұрын
Yep, exactly why I show that here: kzitem.info/news/bejne/wHucvYqLg5xzl3Y
@ikillfh844
4 жыл бұрын
until you scratch the shit out of your nozzle and ultrabase as he did. Maybe would work better if you were coming down from being too high but starting pushed into the bed is just a bad idea. I also am a huge fan of manual mesh bed leveling which I find works better than just the screws anyways.
@parker1ray
4 жыл бұрын
@@ikillfh844 The devil is in the details. Before printing: Auto home, disable steppers, check nozzle height at four corners and center, adjust if necessary, and begin print. I always eyeball gap between nozzle and bed before adjusting on the fly at five points. I find that 90 percent of problems result from being in a rush!
@ikillfh844
4 жыл бұрын
@@parker1ray yeah see this makes sense and would totally work. But to just turn your printer on and dig the nozzle into the bed... Made me cringe. Although when you get companies sending you nothing but free printers and review samples I guess you stop caring
@FilamentFriday
4 жыл бұрын
ikill fh - Or you could just follow the video and set up the bed properly with paper method first before running the live adjust portion.
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