Rules are made to be broken - and myths are made to be busted - I can remember when manufacturers first started using torx bolts - supposedly so that the common man wasn't able to tinker with his bike - and had to pay the stealership to service it - why wouldn't you work on Comstars - just bits of metal, holes and bolts! Awesome job my friend - thank you for sharing!
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Mike and I actually did not know that about the torx bits!
@aidannolan6656
2 жыл бұрын
Great conversion and well explained. As a design engineer, my only concern (in the interests of safety and reliability) is that the fastener choice and tightening regime merits further consideration. The choices you have made could well be entirely valid and give no trouble, however I would be more comfortable assessing the assembly and materials and doing some calculations. I can’t offer any recommendations right now, however it is entirely possible to derive some suitable values given the right data, and I may come back with the output later… once I’ve found some time. I hope it’s of interest, but have noted a few principles below to give you a flavour of how bolted joints are designed: 1. Most joints of the type seen on your com star set-up are known as ‘friction-grip’, that is to say the components (rim, spokes and hub) need to be clamped together tight enough such that under all normal load conditions they can never slip past each other, if they do then fastener fatigue becomes an issue (generally; no movement = no fatigue). The first challenge is to determine the maximum expected shear load at the fasteners from the transmission, brakes, suspension, and from the tyres. With a worst-case shear force value (F) in hand, and a determination of the friction coefficient (u) between the clamped parts, an ideal clamp load (N) can be calculated using F=uN. 2. The clamp-load is key and this helps determine the choice of fastener size and strength. In your case the fastener size is already decided, or in the case of the rim bolts influenced by Honda, so now you have to choose the fastener strength, 8.8, 10.9, 12.9…? So what do the numbers mean? The number before the decimal point, multiplied by 100, expresses the ultimate tensile strength (UTS) of the steel in MPa (megapascals) aka - MN/m2 or N/mm2. The number after the decimal point (multiplied by 10) expresses the yield strength as a percentage of the tensile strength. So an 8.8 screw has a UTS of 800 MPa and a yield strength of 640 MPa. So what next..? Fasteners are elastically deformed (stretched) during tightening and the stress developed is a function of the fastener’s cross sectional area and the axial load applied during tightening. An accepted rule of thumb to avoid loosening (for friction grip mechanically stressed joints) is to develop a minimum tensile stress in the fastener of 40% of its yield strength. In some applications actual tensile stress can be as high as 99% of yield, with a more common upper limit of 80% but for most applications 60% is usual and is often the basis for standard torque values. There is however another consideration - the materials which make up the joint, their mechanical properties, and their geometries within the joint. The trick is to choose a fastener which can be tightened to at least 40% of its yield strength without over-stressing (yielding) any of the materials in the joint. To determine a torque value which generates the desired clamp load, many engineers use torque-tension formula, which looks complicated but is really just a matter of plugging in values which describe the thread geometry and the friction coefficient at the threads an under the screw head. A correctly designed joint should require no locking devices or thread glues, however many designs are compromises, and in cases where the minimum tensile load in a bolted-joint cannot be developed or there is a vibration element, clinch-nuts such as Binx, Aerotight, Nyloc etc. are used. For screwed joints, an effective lock-washer (NordLock is the best) or LocTITE may be the best option… (Note: the ISO convention is that a bolted joint involves an nut and male-threaded fastener, a screwed joint involves a male threaded fastener and a tapped hole). The takeaway is that critical screwed or bolted joints need to be engineered in their entirety. High-strength fasteners are not necessarily the best option, and may loosen or crush the clamped parts. Note: 10.9 and 12.9 fasteners are sometimes, but not usually plated. This is because the risk associated with hydrogen embrittlement has meant that many engineering have a policy of ‘no plated fasteners above strength-class (grade) 8.8. Anyway… I hope the above is of some value to you and anyone reading this. For what it’s worth, I don’t think your fastener choices are far off…🙂
@BrickHouseBuilds
2 жыл бұрын
Aidan I simply did the best process I thought to do going on extremely limited info. My hardware choice, torque sequence, torque values, and whatever else is just what I've come up with as the many who have done this have not posted any info on the matter. If you have some figures or process in mind based on your calculations let us know. Thanks
@aidannolan6656
2 жыл бұрын
@@BrickHouseBuilds No worries… It looks like your reply came while I was editing (I accidentally hit the ‘post’ arrow on my iPad 😦 while typing). My gut feeling is that in reality you shouldn’t have any issues. This looks like a nice engineering problem, so I’ll do some investigation and come up with my take on this (my wife has some priority jobs for me so give me a week or so). Good luck with the rest of the build..👍
@karlalton3170
3 жыл бұрын
I had one of those and went all over Europe with it fully loaded absolutely faultless bike never let me down great little machine 😁😁🤘
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Very cool!
@Silent-Lucidity
Жыл бұрын
That rim and tire package is beyond perfect. Looks amazing!
@BrickHouseBuilds
Жыл бұрын
Thank you! I felt it suited the bike well.
@piriguin2211
3 жыл бұрын
Looks fantastic. Always blown away by your technical knowledge and know-how. Can’t wait to see this finished! ✊🏼
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks man!
@Tonyous
3 жыл бұрын
Nice tip using the modeling paint for the black oxide bolts!!
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks! I did contemplate having them zinc plated but it would be too expensive for such a small batch of bolts
@jorgemercatali9547
2 жыл бұрын
Your channel is great man!!!! Very usefull information and super fun to watch!! Many thanks for sharing.
@BrickHouseBuilds
2 жыл бұрын
Hey thanks for the compliment Jorge!
@JDnBeastlet
2 жыл бұрын
Very nicely done - looks great! I like the clarity of your disclaimer - you definitely get the point across. I also like how you prominently feature the spokes with their DO NOT DISASSEMBLE stamp clearly showing. Thanks for the video!
@BrickHouseBuilds
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you. I very much wanted to try this for the sake of trying this as there is so much bad/conflicting information out there I needed to see for myself. I haven't ridden the bike yet to see if anything I did could be improved upon but once I do I will report back.
@davej3487
Жыл бұрын
For a 2 front wheel trike, I took a 1983 GL1100 wheel and took it apart like this. I then had a new 16 X 6 inch wheel made with the center flange offset to the right of center so a 175/70 16 car tire would clear the driveshaft. Had to modify the swing arm to fit that big tire. But like you, I took my time and hand tightened all nuts and bolts and it ran true in the balance stand. After 8 tire changes and 150,000 miles it was still true. The 1981 and 82 GL1100 had 17 inch rear rims. The 1983 had 16 inch rims. WHY HONDA?
@diptenkrom
3 жыл бұрын
im doing a scrambler project myself wiht an 81 GS450, i saw you did one of those and it was great, but i searched everywhere to get the wheel sizes i was after and had to roder 2 wheels for it to get what i wanted, a GN400 front to get 18x1.85 and a GS550 rear to get 17x2.5 to get the best bet at tires like i want for it. - have a ways to go before i am there, but your videos have taught me some stuff already!
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Awesome to hear! 17 in the back gives lots of options which is why the GS450 build got one. I appreciate the kind words
@MrAlmar07
3 жыл бұрын
Real nicely & done & no corners cut as per B.J. Loving the way this build is progressing. 😉🏴🤘🙏
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Al!
@Coolhand99au
2 жыл бұрын
Great series of Videos on the Comstar conversion BJ Mate you are a perfectionist and you have certainly given me the confidence to solve my CX650E front wheel problem
@BrickHouseBuilds
2 жыл бұрын
My curiosity got the better of me and I had to try this myself. I have not yet tested the bike or wheels but my hopes are high
@Coolhand99au
2 жыл бұрын
Mate they will be OK I have again put a set of Kawasaki ZX6R front forks on my Café racer build. However I am on more of a budget this time I cant use the Kawasaki ugly 17 inch front wheel with a 18 inch rear CX euro wheel and the 18 inch front CX euro wheel has a 15mm axle compared to the Kwak 25mm, The disk rotor hole pattern are the same but would need a 17mm spacer So my solution will be to strip the front CX euro wheel and make a hub that will fit the Comstar spokes and have a 25mm axle Problem solvered ! Cheers mate
@DocJonesGarage
3 жыл бұрын
That turned out great, you were right, that bit extra made such a difference. 👍👍
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Doc!
@bsimpson6204
2 жыл бұрын
Well done! it's a credit to Honda that you could slot that together like that with so little run-out.
@BrickHouseBuilds
2 жыл бұрын
Agreed! These were assembled in line fashion so there should be no reason you couldn't do this. Just had to see for myself
@bertbog5088
3 жыл бұрын
you just saved my last hour of work for the day - Top Bloke
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
lol awesome! Thank you!
@robertogarbanzo5550
2 жыл бұрын
Saludos. En mis años de motociclista, no he visto algo igual ni se de nadie que lo haga. Mis felicitaciones. Por cierto que bien se ve esa moto en ese estilo. Un saludo a desde San José, Costa Rica.
@BrickHouseBuilds
2 жыл бұрын
I wanted to try this as its always just been talked about as I hadn't seen it either
@SurpriseMechanics
3 жыл бұрын
You should safety wire the bolts so they stay torqued down. Those yellow markings are probably going to fade.
@Thewatson77
3 жыл бұрын
Damn dude…..fantastic job! 👌🏼 It’s really starting to take shape now. Great stuff BJ!!
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
I appreciate it sir! It's looking tough!
@rebuildranch1225
2 жыл бұрын
Outstanding!!! Great work, once again!
@BrickHouseBuilds
2 жыл бұрын
Many thanks!
@ayost62
3 жыл бұрын
That looks amazing! I'm going to go ahead and say this is going to be my favorite CX build that you have done. The GL650 build is sweet but this one just looks mean. From the looks of it you are going to need a longer kick stand. Are them crash bars a option item on the CX's?
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Oh for sure it will be longer or I'll make a new one. Trying to get more weight on the bike before I mock up a stand so I know how long to do it. Thank you!
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
The bars are a Honda aftermarket part from the period
@ayost62
3 жыл бұрын
@@BrickHouseBuilds I'm pretty sure you will make a cool custom one!
@Retirement_Life
2 жыл бұрын
Great tips in this video. 👏👏👏
@BrickHouseBuilds
2 жыл бұрын
Thank ya John!
@kirkhenry4969
3 жыл бұрын
What brand tire is that? How do you think those knobbies reacton the road?
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
They are linked in the description. I havent put many miles on the GL650 build yet to really say how they are in the turns but they aren't going to perform or wear like a street tire for sure.
@mikeohonda486
3 жыл бұрын
You make it look easy BJ. But I know it is not. Nice job.
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you. I really hope a bunch of people don't jump in and follow suit just because I did it though
@bear186
3 жыл бұрын
How’s that going to effect your speed/gearing being a bigger wheel on the back,,, slower???
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Just like a smaller sprocket in the back of a bike it would lower the rpms slightly on the highway but the main focus was for a bit of extra ground clearance
@nerfherder5569
3 жыл бұрын
What model compressor are you using and how does it do when sandblasting?
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
I have a Kobalt 60 gallon with a 3.5 hp motor. I don't use it for continuous balasting but it can handle sustained work pretty well. Its never been an issue for me
@murraymadness4674
2 жыл бұрын
Is there just a taller tire you could use on the original wheel?
@BrickHouseBuilds
2 жыл бұрын
Not really
@ErrtuZarathos
3 жыл бұрын
dap of superglue prevents washers to turn.
@TheJWC56RSA
3 жыл бұрын
Again - excellent!!
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Thank ya!
@markanthonypetra
Жыл бұрын
Question, I'm in the planning stages of my CX500 build. I would like to use a CX500 Turbo rear wheel, i was thinking of swapping the disc hub for the drum hub but the Turbo wheel hub has 6 mounting points. With conventional twin shocks is there room to mount the factory caliper/caliper mount and weld a tab for the stay arm? I really want to start with a GL650 but they are hard to find and pricey. Or, I can do the 17 in. Goldwing rim swap...
@BrickHouseBuilds
Жыл бұрын
So you can definitely fit those brake components. A cb900c uses a disc and is a nearly direct swap as an example. A turbo wheel may be far more complex as the drive unit is different, axle diameter is different, etc. Id check the forums for others who have attempted it. Also maybe look at other honda models of the era using boomerangs. I believe a cb700n may have a version with them with shaft drive and a 17 but again you need to do some digging.
@adrian.vasile
3 жыл бұрын
Excellent work. One question though. 12.9 is equivalent to grade 10 bolts. Aren't those more brittle than the 10.8 / grade 8 ones?
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you. Higher number is higher grade here. 12.9 is the strongest metric rating on the hardware
@adrian.vasile
3 жыл бұрын
@@BrickHouseBuilds yeah but aren't them more brittle than 10.9? 10.9 is more ductile thus chances to fracture are less
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
I think you are talking shear vs tension. The bolts are under tension here so I'm not concerned with shear loads.
@Coolhand99au
2 жыл бұрын
Hi BJ FYI I have just posted a video of my front suspension and in that video I modify the CX Comstar wheels to suit the Kawasaki forks You might like to check my method of riveting the aluminium spokes
@BrickHouseBuilds
2 жыл бұрын
Ill give that a watch!
@BrickHouseBuilds
2 жыл бұрын
Awesome video! Jealous of that lathe capability
@BrickHouseBuilds
2 жыл бұрын
If you don't mind I'd like to like your video in my two wheel videos as additional info/examples
@Coolhand99au
2 жыл бұрын
@@BrickHouseBuilds Yeah no worries BJ I think both you and I came up with some safe solutions for the Comstar wheels
@Coolhand99au
2 жыл бұрын
Mate I love that lathe Ok its Chinese but it does the job. Its had a lot of use cost me $3.5KAu its been worth it
@bikefever3569
3 жыл бұрын
Looking good. Is that from a GL1100? what year do I need and what tyre size can I run? Regards John
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks John. Id think an 1100 or 1200 variant would work. Tire size is up to you for your needs Id say. These are 2.5 inch wide rims so a 140 would be too wide in my opinion.
@righthoekstra
3 жыл бұрын
If got a 17inch from a Honda VT, same as the GL
@BrickHouseBuilds
3 жыл бұрын
@@righthoekstra Do you know if the hubs interchange or are you talking the outer rim section?
@righthoekstra
3 жыл бұрын
@@BrickHouseBuilds VT hub is different than a CX, maybe it's same as GL dont know. Got the rim sitting for this mod, that's why im really thankful for this video!👍
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