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@celulari
5 жыл бұрын
Can you please share the mold for the volcano hotend?
@CNCKitchen
5 жыл бұрын
I printed and molded this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015676 Closed most of the holes with tape, though.
@fliegenmann2562
5 жыл бұрын
I did some silicone molds in the past and always used a vibrating sander to help reduce the bubbles. 😬👍
@Sven_Hein
5 жыл бұрын
Which TFC silicone did you use? The link to Amazon just shows me some 200°C silicone... Greetings from Germany!
@Uterr
5 жыл бұрын
Please, make update to a video. I regularly doing silicone moldings and i must say, my silicone parts that i made flammable. Not just charring or something, it burns in flames, bright and hot. So please, don't do this silicone hotend sock, unless you know what exactly your silicone is.
@davegrandeffo330
5 жыл бұрын
You are a very talented and intelligent young man, Stephan; I'm sure glad you didn't quit after your second video bombed! It would have been a great loss to the 3D printing community!
@CHSidChou
5 жыл бұрын
using syringe to de-bubble is smart, never thought of that
@reverse_engineered
2 жыл бұрын
No kidding! At first I was thinking that he should use a vacuum chamber to degas the silicone, but the syringe makes a perfectly capable vacuum itself.
@ddegn
5 жыл бұрын
This makes so many cool things possible. You don't need to print with flexible material to get flexible parts, you can print a mold using normal material and use this trick to make heat resistant flexible parts. I think this video just pushed me over the edge into actually ordering a 3D printer.
@CNCKitchen
5 жыл бұрын
If you know at least some CAD or are open to learn it, a 3D printer is an awesome tool!
@KieranShort
5 жыл бұрын
Not just flexible parts. I've printed a mold and used it to form a concrete mold.
@underourrock
4 жыл бұрын
@@KieranShort Not just solid or flexible parts. I've printed a mold and used it to form an air mold. (kidding aside, I really liked this video and thought your comment about making something out of concrete was cool...what was it? I just wanted to add a tongue in cheek take of molding something unusual along with the more serious question about what you made out of concrete.)
@michaelbujaki2462
4 жыл бұрын
I own the Vertex nano, don't buy it.
@walkerjl8
4 жыл бұрын
If your medium is temperature-resistant (and you only need one or two) you don't even have to build multipart molds. Just print in PLA, fill the mold, and melt it away with a heat gun.
@BoruffAdventures
5 жыл бұрын
If you mix in a small, wide mouthed mason jar and attach a fermentation lid with a hand pump vacuum, you could probably remove the bubbles before you get to the syringe.
@ianide2480
5 жыл бұрын
A touch of vaseline jelly between the mating surfaces will reduce liquid leakage and reduce amount of flashing that's left over
@CNCKitchen
5 жыл бұрын
Great tip!
@jimbit22
5 жыл бұрын
Yes but it needs a very little amount so it doesn't spill into the mold cavity. I use botox syringes to apply it. You can dilute the vaseline with mineral spirits to get a better paste to work with.
@markjacksmarkjacks
5 жыл бұрын
Also, as you assemble it, you can wipe away any superfluous vaseline with a Q-tip.
@jackisonline2
4 жыл бұрын
Plasticine works well also
@koolkevin2357
3 жыл бұрын
Using 91/99% IPA: Put any amount, say 6-12 OZ. in a capable bottle (CLEAN soda bottle works well), put in about 1 Once or more of vaseline, shake well let rest 5 minutes and shake WELL again (maybe use a 100*F water bath) let cool to room temp. Excess will fall out of solution and collect at bottom. Pour this mold release (not the stuff that fell out of solution) into a fine mist sprayer (with new label of course) and spray away, coat all surfaces well, you can't really overspray this unless you really try... Let air dry till the IPA has evaporated completely. In 5 years making vacuum molds for signs I've never had a failure and it also takes away any moisture the mold may have absorbed and is almost completely invisible in the finished product. Hint: Don't use it thinking you can fill voids with it - just the thinest of compleat films is what you are after.
@chloemcholoe3280
5 жыл бұрын
I LITTERALY WAS CHECKING THE thingiverse PAGE again out of curiosity and this popped on my youtube xD perfect timing
@michieljames737
5 жыл бұрын
So glad that you sticked to creating content. Your contribution towards 3D printing is of immesurable value! Thank you and keep them coming! 👌
@Mobin92
Жыл бұрын
That was obviously a lie to manipulate you into giving a like...
@riba2233
5 ай бұрын
@@Mobin92 there always has to be someone like you in the comments... Useless troll
@Tony_Goat
2 жыл бұрын
Little tip: If you want to get rid of the layer lines, melt some beeswax and quickly dip the mold in it before injecting the silicone. If you do it quickly enough, the wax will fill the tiny gaps without disturbing the dimensional accuracy of the mold.
@mikeneron
5 жыл бұрын
Excellent video! Would like to see more of this in the future. In Fusion, you can use the boundary fill to figure out the volume of something which would give you an idea of how much silicone you would need to use.
@mspacone
5 жыл бұрын
Dude! This is awesome! What an awesome video. I appreciate you going over the process and sharing!
@MrKarriban
5 жыл бұрын
I've actually had far more success using the "pro" version of e3d's sock with the tiny hole for the end of the nozzle as compared to the second, more open design. For whatever reason I ended up having material stick to the exposed nozzle and glob up pretty frequently. The more covered design completely eliminated that problem for me. Your custom sock design looks really good though. I really like the tighter fitment as compared to e3d's version. I'll be giving this a try as soon as I get the parts in :)
@MakunaRGBIC
4 жыл бұрын
I had the same issue when printing with nylon, it sticks to the nozzle until I used a sock with the smaller hole.
@jeffkosowsky67
Жыл бұрын
I actually bought the thin hole version first and it didn't work well for me - the sock just didn't seem to fit well. The one with the larger hole fits better and lasted a lot longer...
@SkiidMark
5 жыл бұрын
I make 3D printed molds for Sugru as I cannot stand a hand molded item....and I am no artist.
@uiopuiop3472
4 жыл бұрын
and I am no 123456
@kazolar
5 жыл бұрын
I made volcano molds before e3d ones came out. I don't feel the need to make my own now as the e3d volcano socks stay on with no issue, and the new version of the standard block don't have a problem of staying put either. I find the castable silicone disintegrates much quicker than the stuff e3d uses. I was only able to get about 2-3 weeks out of the homemade socks before the silicone started to crumble and disintegrate -- and yes I used the high heat stuff -- rated for 370c for prolonged exposure and over 450c for short exposure
@CNCKitchen
5 жыл бұрын
E3Ds volcano socks are great and I never had a problem with those. Just cast one for for increasing my sample size. I've been using mine for quite a while even with PC that is printed at 270°C and they are still as flexible as on their first day.
@MarinusMakesStuff
5 жыл бұрын
Did you think of using the real aluminium block in the center for the mold? This way you can do a cast in place and you wouldn't even have to put it on because it is on. Tighter fit!
@BelinFieldson
5 жыл бұрын
I made this, but it didn't work as well as the one in the video: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3548093
@jimbit22
5 жыл бұрын
Silicone rubber does not stick to anything but itself. So even if you cast it in place it will come loose. Making the mold fit the block precisely might be a difficult chore..
@MarinusMakesStuff
5 жыл бұрын
@@jimbit22 Of course it doesn't stick. The main reason is so that you don't have to stretch the silicon mold and you don't have to make it so that you can replace it. It will be a much tighter fit and will allow for more coverage since you don't have to plan gaps in order to take it off. This can be designed in such a way that you can even switch nozzles without having to remove the silicone sock :)
@mav68nrs
5 жыл бұрын
Put you still have to install the heater and thermistor.
@jimbit22
5 жыл бұрын
@@MarinusMakesStuff from experience, because there's no tolerance between the parts it will be a pain to re install the sock if it's 100% fit. Sometimes the master slips on me when making 2+ part silicone molds and it never goes into place again without distorting the mold. Having said that i can't be 100% sure that it won't work..
@janosnagyj.9540
5 жыл бұрын
Fantastic idea, good explanation as always. I think that only thumbs down comes from a Chinese manufacturer of these aftermarket socks :D They feel like loosing market because of your video :D
@scorfman1
5 жыл бұрын
Holy crap! Awesome and thanks!
@TheDigigram
5 жыл бұрын
You could smooth out the mold with some polyurethane before casting, but honestly for this I like the layer lines, makes people question if you printed with silicone :D LOVIT
@koolkevin2357
3 жыл бұрын
That would make for an interesting conversation about the capabilities of 3D printing!
@davidson46100
4 жыл бұрын
Silicone is easy to use. You can buy 400--600f silicones that can be had at a hardware or auto parts store.
@antonwinter630
5 жыл бұрын
more mold making videos please!
@Sam1kka
5 жыл бұрын
I prefer the first silicone sock version from E3D. It keeps my nozzle clean. My heatbrake has leaked twice (fixed), but luckily didn't create a blob of doom
@janosnagyj.9540
5 жыл бұрын
A question: 15:09 when you cut the place where the cables are passing: wouldn't be enough just to cut open with one cut the material over that hole? The whole thing is very flexible so I suppose one could still be able to pass it beyond that wires. But maybe that missing little part that you cut away is not important, I don't know.
@CNCKitchen
5 жыл бұрын
That actually was my first intention but this way it's way easier to mount it on the block especially in tight places.
@Gunzee
4 жыл бұрын
Off topic, the CNC logo on the sock looks like WH Smith's 80s logo. Nice to be reminded off the place, the staff were so cool. I'd spend a good hour reading computer magazines, they never even looked at me! Of course soon as I could afford it I bought the mags from them. Here it is! en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/WHSmith#/media/File%3AWHSmith1.png
@exaltdragon
5 жыл бұрын
I did something similar with a 2 part PLA mold but I used an acrylic glue called Genii Quartz to smooth out the 3d print layer striations before casting.
@CyanOgilvie
5 жыл бұрын
That is awesome, I have to add this to my toolbox of techniques. One of the most useful materials I have for functional parts is TPU / TPE, but it can be a pain to print with on a stock MK3. This approach should be much faster (one of my recent projects was rubber feet for garden furniture to stop them damaging a wooden deck - 20 parts took a few days to print because TPE has to be printed so slowly). I especially like the trick of using the syringe to create a vacuum to degas the silicone, very elegent :)
@chloemcholoe3280
5 жыл бұрын
Silicone socks are amazing! I made mine from a different design before this and no more throwing heatbreaks out cause they're unusable (too much gunk makes it hard to unscrew stuff. I use less than 1$ chinese clones ofc :P) it's so nice to always have a shiny beautiful heatbreak! not to mention the help with stringing etc. also the burnt plastic fumes can be toxic and all too I just wish the heater block screw was covered since that doesn't seem to harm anything really. and I just wish it covered the nozzle A Liiiiiiiiiittttttlemore to the tip! but I love this regardless
@tribologist
3 жыл бұрын
Here is a video on how to use regular red RTV in the CNC Kitchen mold kzitem.info/news/bejne/xH6hvJyMkKGZhX4
@fmh357
Жыл бұрын
Great content. Might be a little too fiddly for me unless I was making them for sale.
@mathewphillips4185
5 жыл бұрын
Would you take money to make a mold design in STL form for micro Swiss hotend
@jacquesarsenault8367
5 жыл бұрын
This is great! And yes please, I would totally be interested in more silicone or resin videos. You explain things quite well!
@rkatz69
5 жыл бұрын
Wonderful video dude, I think i'm gonna try and make a couple for usage in our print lab :)
@alainrousseau3377
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Stefan, Great video as usual. Would you mind providing the reference of the color pigment you used for this video? The link to amazon does not land on a specific product.
@GerDirtyHarry
5 жыл бұрын
Super Video, jetzt weiß ich wie und aus was ich meine eigenen Fillament- Abstreifer für den Werkzeugwechsel machen kann :)
@marcelkaufmann6748
4 жыл бұрын
Welch gute Idee 👍👍👍, hat es geklappt? Kann ich das Design der Abstreifer irgendwo sehen (z.B. Thingiverse)?
@matneu27
5 жыл бұрын
Great project. But what makes me think like on other of my projects: what to to with the expensive material where you only use a few grams? Maybe print some molds for toys in the bedside table ;)
@Vinolatra
4 жыл бұрын
Stephan, thanks so much for your content. I really appreciate your time and dedication to be as through as you are. I wonder if you do consider venturing into making heat resistant molds from 3D printing. Not only because it would be interesting exploring metal casting and lost “wax” techniques, but I am really interested in reusable molds that resist heat such as plastic injection molding, for instance. Could you print a negative mould with all the registers that then would be used to create the final heat resistant mold to be used in the final casting? What do you have to do with all the tolerances? Thanks again! Paulo
@geoper2
4 жыл бұрын
Stefan the link for the silicone on the description is not bringing anything up. I think it needs update. Thanks in advance
@hakangenc9175
4 жыл бұрын
Geo Per I agree. Stefan can you please update the silicone material link. Thnx.
@ambientvoid
Жыл бұрын
This could be a perfect solution for me, it's been impossible to find new replacement rubber parts for the weird trucks on my 15yr old longboard for at least a decade, custom molded parts were too expensive for me but this could be ideal...
@Bordpie
5 жыл бұрын
The E3D sock is probably designed as it is since industrial moulds are expensive, and it needs gaps on both sides for the cables for all the various printer configurations. A more enclosing design like this would still be fine for mass production actually, since you can manually cut the slots in afterwards. You even have the option of not cutting the sock at all and building the hotend around it. I guess they were going for ease of use and universal compatibility rather than rigidity, that said I've never had mine come off yet.
@bryanho1777
5 жыл бұрын
This guy is a genius !
@PhotonLukas
5 жыл бұрын
Hey do you really need a Rasberry ? Arduino or a ESP8266 are for the most things enough. Tipp: Don't use a DHT sensor there are not relay reliable and there accuracy is also not the best. I recommend a BME280 there are relative cheap and definitely better.
@Anonymouspock
5 жыл бұрын
I recently learned about github.com/rsta2/circle and needless to say, I'm quite excited about using a Pi without the annoying part: the operating system. So that's an option too if you have a pi on a shelf collecting dust.
@CNCKitchen
5 жыл бұрын
It's overkill for that project but know how to use it and how to program on it opens me so many possibilities especially in the direction of OpenCV and stuff like that. You gotta start small ;-)
@FedericoLucchi
3 жыл бұрын
I wonder, since silicone can resist 300 C, if you could 3D print a part, make a silicone mold around it, and then pour molten PLA or ABS in the silicone mold... thus getting a much stronger part (and making it very easy to replicate it quickly). The mold itself would probably need to be heated, but for smaller parts it shouldn't be a problem, and a kitchen oven should be good enough
@tinchodias
2 жыл бұрын
Sounds good. Then, the PLA might "anneal" without deformations (related: kzitem.info/news/bejne/xYWwvKmle4Jqmo4)
@bugbot42
5 жыл бұрын
Great tutorial! I've solved all of my problems with the (pro) silicone sock falling off with a bent paperclip that goes around the sock. The springiness of the clip keep it squeezing the sock in place and I can simply pinch the ends of the clip to release it from the block. Super easy and effectively $0
@Justinsatiable
2 жыл бұрын
I've definitely had that booger monster before
@lavondaniels6672
2 жыл бұрын
I actually dip my hot and in one layer of candle wax and then dip it in high temperature silicone until I get my preferred thickness and it makes a nice tight fitting sock for my hot end
@chuysaucedo7119
3 жыл бұрын
GEEZ. wow. You make some of the best videos. THIS was perfect for something I'm looking into doing. Now, I just need to learn F360 more, and try this!! THANK YOU ! ! !
@invisiblealex007
4 жыл бұрын
The project is fascinating, but on the AliExpress that sock costs about 0.65$. Everything comes down to hobby and experience ofcouse :)
@thechriskelly12
5 жыл бұрын
@CNC Kitchen nice trick for the changing the fillet size have u considered using user parameters
@2fwelding842
Жыл бұрын
Real late to this video, but curious would it be advantagous to cast mold around fully assmebled hot end. Would mean swapping hot end instead of nozzle, and cutting off to replace worn out nozzle
@vizionthing
5 жыл бұрын
One of the top ten video's this year so far
@Shiruvan
5 жыл бұрын
All the problems about silicone bubbles pop away at 13:18 without spending $100+ for vacuum chamber and pump, and this might just works for the very important first layer that hits the most detail of any of one's moldmaking project, to be bubble-free. wow, much thanks!
@Flederratte
3 жыл бұрын
Nice idea! I work with this silicone all the time. I use if for making moulds for casting lead, tin, wax, resin and sulphur.
3 жыл бұрын
Gonna cast suppressor wipes for my PBS-1 AK47 suppressor using this. Thank you for the inspiration!
@mleitner0
5 жыл бұрын
You're the best man. Nice video.
@francescobiondecchi6914
5 жыл бұрын
13:20 you are genius!
@jprats1996
5 жыл бұрын
Have u tried sla 3d printing for this process? The resins affect the curing of the silicon?
@CNCKitchen
5 жыл бұрын
Should work just as good. I just avoid resin printers as much as possible due to the mess involved.
@jimbit22
5 жыл бұрын
Depending on the rtv rubber it might. I've had curing issues with the monocure rapid gray resin and silicone. The problem was that the silicone did not cure 100% where it was touching the printed part. It wasn't liquid, but it remained sticky even after post curing in an oven.
@askjacob
5 жыл бұрын
@@jimbit22 spraying the parts in primer before using them as a mold should help
@TheShoeJr
4 жыл бұрын
Great video, but what happened to that poor melted hot end?
@gunsmoke132
2 жыл бұрын
I'm glad you didn't quit and fought through it. You're one of my favorite and most informative 3D printing channels.
@MarioIArguello
4 жыл бұрын
I would not cut slots for the heater element or temp resistor. Yes, this means you would have to remove the heater element and thermistor before installing the sock and re-install them after, but this way the silicon sock remains in place with less chance of slipping in use. If you design your silicon mold with a small lip or flange around the perimeter at the top of the hot end block, it will grab it more securely.To prevent flashing you can use modeling clay to seal the edges of the 3d Printed mold clean. Option for silicon sock material, I believe you can simply bypass the 2 part silicon mixing and use a professional construction true silicon tube (no latex mix) or a hot temp automotive silicon, a lot cheaper, make multiple molds and you can pour and cure all of them at basically the same time and not waste any silicon, plus you can use them after 1 day curing. I have done a lot of silicon molds in my time, using 2 part silicons to duplicate parts in various types of mold making media. This is many times a messy process, why I think using a tube of ready to use high temp silicon will work for something like a small sleeve, like these hot end socks. You don't need to degass , special equipment, just a couple holes on the mold, one to pour (in case of a construction silicon tube to force the material thru) and another to vent excess.
@UndercoverFerret404
5 жыл бұрын
Next: How to cast a silicone girlfriend....
@AlexeiTacu
5 жыл бұрын
you can just make the mold so you pour the silicon in, no need to have a top and be forced to squeeze silicone in. Gravity will make top of silicon flat ;)
@CNCKitchen
5 жыл бұрын
True.
@jimbit22
5 жыл бұрын
Thin molds like that are a pain to fill, additionally it's almost impossible to get the top surface flat, it will have a positive or negative meniscus.. The approach followed here was the best.
@goguyted
2 жыл бұрын
@@jimbit22 I have battled the meniscus with a very tiny chamfer facing in towards the silicone filled cavity at the top lip of my molds you just need to very carefully fill enough even after the bubbles pop because the bubbles make the level go down.
@jamesgyd
Жыл бұрын
Since I replaced my 0.4mm nozzle by 0.8mm nozzle on my Ender 3 V2, I removed the silicone sock and it get perfect printing result from PETG, I got no idea about how it is work but I just leave it working without silicone sock.
@mrsc1914
5 жыл бұрын
for my hot end I just painted a thick layer with that rtv silicone. Works great. Plus I also found out that making a separating layer with kapton tape(keeping the hot side separate from the cold side) makes a HUGE difference. Actually the separating layer made the most difference. I was fighting the temperature emergency timeout. Soo>> when one needs to print PC its more like 280-300C.. basically above 250c the temperature would sag below its target range for longer than bla bla seconds when the layer cooling fans would run. well making a flat horizontal layer of tape created a situation where the heat from the bottom doesn't go up NOR do the cool layer fans get cool air anywhere near the whole everything. it basically stop the air currents.. convection.. or directed air.. So that stabilized the temperature dramatically. Which lowered my power consumption etc etc ... Paradigm = prevent the air from the hot end area from reaching the hot end cooling fan. It might not be apparent that air flows like that, but the heat does. its just lost. like an open refrigerator or an open window.
@tinchodias
2 жыл бұрын
I think this is a great point!
@mattakudesu
4 жыл бұрын
I've already got a collection of silicone socks, and I don't even have a 3D printer.
@PauloRogerioAlmeida
4 жыл бұрын
Excellent job Stephan, as usual, I just wonder if a cooling duct can be molded together with this hotend sock so I slightly modify your initial design, to include this feature, I'm struggling a little to define the mold but after finish I will share too.
@tinchodias
2 жыл бұрын
I thought the same! did you succeed?
@PauloRogerioAlmeida
2 жыл бұрын
@@tinchodias Hi! I find some constraints removing the part from the mold, another issue is the thermal dissipation, once the sock walls in touch with hotend block the air flow will be hot, not helping that much on coolings perspective, in resume the effort not worth and I give it up, now I'm looking to use same solution as the guys that persuit 3 min benchy, brass pipes side by side at hotend block.
@tinchodias
2 жыл бұрын
@@PauloRogerioAlmeidaSo you say that the high temperature silicon has a thermal conductivity to consider... I still didn't do any try but want to, and am suspecting that those Ultra Copper Permatex that tolerate so hight temperatures maybe also don't insulate temp as more pure silicone. Probably I didn't explain well... writing from phone, sorry.
@Eugensdiet
4 жыл бұрын
Rea;;y nice video. If you wanted to ,make copies of figures in resin you can use the resin for the mold. Print figure. pour mold (dixie cup) remove figure and cast part. This may a particularly nice way for making terrain or buildings since resins can be purchased in different textures.
@audioorigami
5 жыл бұрын
great video...will you be selling any of the socks?
@redeyeimages
5 жыл бұрын
Meist nehme ich nur Abgüsse von gedruckten Teilen um sie dann in Kunstharz zu gießen, aber auch eine gedruckte Form für Silikon habe ich schon probiert. Für mein neuestes Projekt, Sofortbildrückteil für Instaxfilm für meine Analogkamera, könnte ich auch einige Lichtdichtungen an das Druckteil angießen mit einer aufgesetzten Gussform statt diese zu drucken. Danke für die Anregung dazu 👍
@davidbunch7431
5 жыл бұрын
Looks like you get some incredible detail with these molds using one of these inexpensive Resin 3D printers or would they not work with silicone?
@CNCKitchen
5 жыл бұрын
That should work very well. If in doubt, use some mold release.
@shophacks
5 жыл бұрын
You can also sand, primer and paint mold surfaces that you want to be smooth. The silicone will pick up whatever surface finish you have from gloss smooth to textured. It will even transfer fingerprints so you have to be careful handling very smooth molds. Platinum cure silicone can have curing issues if it contacts some paints or some other types of materials so check compatibility. Tin cure silicone is much less sensitive.
@jimbit22
5 жыл бұрын
@@shophacks on point advice..
@fellzer
2 жыл бұрын
This youtube channel is such a joke. Calls himself CNC Kitchen and has not once cooked anything.
@brx8r
4 жыл бұрын
I am so fucking stoned and don't know why I'm watching this video but I twigged when you said SUBSTRACT that isn't a word but faaaark it should be
@ch.wey.4406
4 жыл бұрын
Ich nehme an, wenn man die Bubble danach nochmal auffüllt, dass sich das Silikon nicht mehr verbindet oder? Mir ist nämlich dasselbe passiert. Naja, morgen werd ich es wissen, ich habe die Bubble nach 2 Stunden gefüllt.
@brandonwilson3175
5 жыл бұрын
not sure if you like to fish but a mold that you could turn silicon into a bait
@hanswurstusbrachialus5213
5 жыл бұрын
Easy to do it :) If you want to, i could do one and publish it on thingi.
@adidvorov
5 жыл бұрын
I legit thought you are making socks.. for feet! I'm so out of the loop.
@scorkmc
2 жыл бұрын
i got one that came with my sculpto pro 2. its getting old and i need a new one
@chriswesley594
3 жыл бұрын
Another great video - thanks. And I watched Salad Spinner II yesterday. Amazing how well that thing lasted! I'm always impressed with how well German folks speak English. Even more so since I'm learning Spanish. Jeez - that's nto easy. Two tiny things on English (1) We say "so that" - not "that": "I made the mold SO THAT I would not have to buy one." (2) "Substract" => "SubTract" (no second S). I hope that's helpful.
@depark8858
5 жыл бұрын
You mentioned you did a Volcano version, any chance you could share it? Other than that this is an awesome video. Great Job!
@CNCKitchen
5 жыл бұрын
I printed and molded this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015676 Closed most of the holes with tape, though.
@depark8858
5 жыл бұрын
@@CNCKitchen Thanks
@metalsparker
3 жыл бұрын
I would like to defend the original socks' "small hole" design for a moment. I have found that when printing PETg, with the "large hole" sock, I was plagued with blobs and burned bits of filament accumulating on the model. PETg tends to produce strings of fine hair sized threads during retractions followed by a move. These hairs get picked up by the passing nozzle and build up into a blob on the exposed outer surface of the nozzle. Eventually dropping off onto the thing you are printing. I messed around with all of the various mitigating settings but you I couldn't stop the stringing completely stop the stringing. "PETg stringing is what I do" :-) The "small hole" sock solves the problem for me completely. FWIW Mike
@WaschyNumber1
2 жыл бұрын
Cool 👍 I'm beginner and waiting for my first 3d printer the flsun q5 to arrive, is ther this 3d printed silicone sock version also available for the Q5, I would like to make one first before I mess up the nozzle to much, or could I put some of the yellow transparent high temperature tape on the nozzle and around or the Teflon tape that is used in vacuum bag sealers? 🤔 Sorry if I messed up the writing, I have most the time conical migraines and fibromyalgie, most the time strong pain even under pain killers, slso English is not my mother language. Kind Regards
@madrian_hello
5 жыл бұрын
Cool. You should try to make a stamp with this method.
@googlegamer4047
5 жыл бұрын
And I was just thinking last week that I needed a signature stamp for work, but didn't want to spend a bunch of money. If I'm making socks anyways, I might as well do a stamp too
@CNCKitchen
5 жыл бұрын
You can actually print stamps directly in TPU or TPE.
@KidCe.
Жыл бұрын
3years back i didnt think id ever come back to this video because i already had a really well working silicone sock that came with the ender3. Now im experimenting with cht volcano nozzle, copper nuts and a more powerfull heater, all on the stock hotend, so i also need a new silicone sock to insulate the nozzle that sticks out soo far from all the extra part cooling air. Very helpful video! Also.. i think i saw every single of your videos but i dont remember if u ever made a fusion360 tutorial? After using f360 for 4 years on and off, i still have no consistent workflow of using components like u did in the video. I would love to see a basic workflow video and how to split up multi part projects into components :)
@rhalyas
3 жыл бұрын
How much does the silicone part flex until it breaks? Is this material also good for moving parts like hinges etc
@gumbykevbo
2 жыл бұрын
Just a warning that RESIN printed molds may inhibit the cure of many 2 part silicones. Of course if you are making heat socks, you have a filament based printer, but this may help somebody that is trying to make some sort of super-detailed mold in a resin printer. If that is you, do some testing before committing to purchase of lots of expensive silicone.
@danko6582
Жыл бұрын
Have you considered just crushing crumpled aluminium foil over the hot end? It might not be as effective but would be way quicker, skipping design, printing and casting.
@sergarlantyrell7847
3 жыл бұрын
Now I'm wondering if you could do silicone over-moulding to use a PLA stiffener embedded inside silicone. eg a semi-rigid phone case. Lots of mechanical features would be required to limit slip as you can't use chemical bonding between silicone and the PLA.
@iTzRaCx
5 жыл бұрын
Is there any alternative of this silicon that can be bought in the US?
@shelbyseelbach9568
Жыл бұрын
This mold is freaking fantastic. I am using Permatex Hi Temp 81160. This is such a better sock than the commercially available ones that a comparison isn't even really fair.
@AG-cg7lk
Жыл бұрын
Thanks very much for making your hard work available as Fusion files. I used it to make a modified version that wraps around the high flow nozzle extender I am using.
@lobsterbark
2 жыл бұрын
Well thats neater than my solution. I just smear rtv silicone all over my hotend with cardboard cut into the shape of mini spatulas. I have to cut the silicone with an x-acto knive when I change nozzles, but adding more silicone is so easy its barely a disadvantage. The only real disadvantage is its ugly and if I have to change heatblocks for any reason I have to do it again.
@brianwgDK
5 жыл бұрын
Hi Stefan have you ever tried verifying the temperatures the printers display they are?? think my old Wanhou i3 v1 is way off i print pla at 230 but i don´t think its that hot but is says it is. perhaps something for a video :-)
@cahenr5045
Жыл бұрын
I had the same problem with the V6 socks. It scratched after some use and no chance to substitute for another one with the same shape. I'm thought about doing something like this and will try your project. Thanks.
@asmith8673
4 жыл бұрын
1:42 - I had an attack of the blob, but worse I think. A decent sized print broke free from the bed and almost got into the hot end fan. Took a while to clean up because the thermal runaway shut things down a couple times before I cleared enough the get at the real problem areas... at least I know thermal runaway works!
@bohaman.
Жыл бұрын
Hello sir, May I ask what command do you use to make the socks encapsulate the designed hotend. I designed my hotend but I don't know how to make my socks box encapsulate the hotend. I only know how to use splitbody but that the last step. thank yousir.
@hookprobe
4 жыл бұрын
why don't you cover the whole heath block high temp silicone, like 1200c (BISON)? what will happen?
@HidekiShinichi
5 жыл бұрын
I dont have high temp silicone. I do have some normal bathroom silicone and was trying to figure out how well it bonds with 3d printed parts and... It does bond well. I mean silicone does not stick to pla but all the nooks and crannies and its texture makes silicone grip to the plastic.
@danielb3573
5 жыл бұрын
My printer gets that big blob either way. I think the problem is that, the hot end is to far away from the plate, or it is extruding to fast. Any tips are welcome. Edit: pun not intended
@waynedollery9946
Жыл бұрын
You mention bubble traps, I'm sure there are other design elements you need to include for this injection mold process. Could you explain these more?
@PB3D2
4 жыл бұрын
Love the idea thx for fusion design..there is some trick to get no bubble with silicone ,fill the syringe from high distance to create a very fine thread then buble will die before fill up
@figoamigo2692
3 жыл бұрын
one thing u could have possibly done was sand/clear coat the 3d printed sock that u were molding to give the final product a more clean finish
@jessie38supercharged
2 жыл бұрын
another option is to thread the in port so that you can just screw a tube of silicone right into the mold.
@StephenBoyd21
3 жыл бұрын
I wish someone would sell sock similar to this. The E3D socks are pretty rubbish and fall off all the time.
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