I wasn't happy with the way I was doing unboxing and product reviews as I couldn't get the right angle for the footage.
Time stamp
00:55 PVC Parts and build
02:04 Why I use PVC Piping and chose threaded end caps
04:40 Why I use metal Phalanges
05:15 Why I use C - Clamps
05:45 Tour of the rig
06:07 Mounted Video Accessories in detail (Monitor, Godox Light, Camera Mount, Remote, Philips Hue Play Lights)
08:22 Schematic and Parts List
It was also a pain to setup as I had to organize 2 light stands and 2 cameras and dealing with wires everywhere.
After some research, I decided to build my own budget friendly DIY overhead camera rig.
Here is a video of my first build. I tried it out, it worked, but the design was flawed as i could put on attachments.
After some additional sketches, the next day, I took it apart and built a more functional and sturdy design.
For my material, i choose 1 inch diameter PVC piping. It's inexpensive, strong, easy to cut and there are lots of PVC fittings
that to make my design work. I decided to use threaded caps in my build for 2 reasons
1) I needed to be able to take the overhead rig apart if needed to move it out of my office studio or completely break it down
to make space in the office .
2) I manually cut all the pieces by hand using a hacksaw which means in uneven cuts and lengths. With using the threaded caps
i can adjust the height of pieces by screwing in the the right depth to make sure it was level with other pieces to make up for
my cutting mistakes.
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Here I am starting to build out the frame of the camera rig.
I decided to go with metal phalanges instead of building out PVC legs for 3 reasons.
1) Metal phalanges are heavy which helped keep the rig stable as it's pretty tall
2) Had pre-drilled holes and gave me option of permanently mounting it to a table
3) It was flat and allowed me to C-clamp it to the table so I know the rig wouldn't move in case i bumped into it.
The camera rig is built on a 4 foot folding table, it's pretty light and a slight bump would or walking around the table
would shake the camera rig. I wouldn't to reduce camera shake by putting the c clamps on.
Here is an overview of the completed rig.
Accessories I use:
1) Mounted my Aputure VS2 Monitor, it's attached with a smallrig clamp and smallrig arm
2) Using a small rig clamp and an adapter, i was able to mount my GODOX LEDP260C Video light
3) My camera mount is using a rhino camera mount from my Rhino ROV Pro Slider. It worked perfectly as I can easily
articulate the camera position
4) I have my GODOX led260C remove attached to the frame. I don't have to guess what the settings are or get a step stool
to climb up to make changes to my lighting.
5) I have Philips Hue Play Lights to add some color to the b-roll footage.
Here is the specs of the build
It's 43 inches wide
It's 37 inches tall
The side is 13 inches in width
8 PVC T fittings
8 PVC threaded adapters
4 PVC elbows
43 x 2 = 86 inches
29 X 2 = 58 inches
4 Metal Phalanges
4 C-Camps
Total PVC pipe = 12 feet
Cost = $75 Cdn
Let me know what your thoughts are on this DIY Overhead camera rig.
Is there some other accessories I should add? Do you think it's overkill?
Put your comments down below.
Thanks for watching and until next time.
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