A neat thing on M303 is the "U" option - do "M303 S200 U1" and at the end of the PID tuning, it sets them active for you, no need to type the numbers back in, just M500 to save. Handy!
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
I considered using it in the video but it would have tripped up anyone with standard firmware. Thanks for sharing.
@johncreech6828
3 жыл бұрын
@@TeachingTech where do you go to send the gcode to the printer when tuning
@joeeverhart5438
3 жыл бұрын
When it comes to just about any 3d printing concerns you have a very easy to follow yet rich walkthrough! Definitely the best 3d printing channel for those cutting their teeth at this to experts looking to save time in configuring and fine-tuning their machines. Thank you for doing what you do.
@Horendus123
5 жыл бұрын
Great video. One thing to mention is a Swiss All Metal is essential if you plan to do production/heavy use on the ender3 (any printer) I run swiss micros on all my print farm printers (and bondtech extruders) as the PTFE does not stand the test of time where as a correctly installed all metal will require much less maintenance over time.
@dkeele
5 жыл бұрын
Another great video Michael. A potential follow-up video that I'm sure would get a lot of views is to test and compare all metal hot end clones of the Microswiss to see how they compare to the authentic one. I see a ton of discussion in groups about the clones.
@glock2101
5 жыл бұрын
I have the Tevo Tornado, same model as you with the not so attractive gold trim. I upgraded to the Micro Swiss and absolutely love it, I have had no issues whatsoever with it, and when I got it, the heater block was missing, I called the company, a real person answered and within 24 hours I had a replacement part.
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
I've just fitted the Ender 3 hot end to my tornado so I can use the hero me duct. Glad to hear about good customer service.
@NEOGEOJunkie
5 жыл бұрын
I believe the Swiss site also mentioned raising your default temp as well, I recently fitted the micro and usually print PLA at 200c, but I have found 218c works a lot better, I'm also using the bullseye cooler. Great vid though as always. 👍
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
I had a bit at the back of the video about this. Thanks for mentioning it.
@grantlesueur
5 жыл бұрын
Yup I upgraded to this device a while ago mostly because I’ve standardized in printing PETG but also want to expand to other material.
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
I don't mind spending money in this hobby so happy to have it to make the printer feel about nicer and higher quality.
@SaulHernandez-vh2rw
4 жыл бұрын
Have you printed in PC?
@grantlesueur
4 жыл бұрын
@@SaulHernandez-vh2rw I personally have not.
@patjohn775
4 жыл бұрын
I print overture PETG at 260 and it still looks like it’s not hot enough so I need to decrease speed. Has it made it easier to print Petg?
@column.01
3 жыл бұрын
@@patjohn775 i printed it at 240c with no issues
@kevincanfly
5 жыл бұрын
Great info!! I swapped to the Swiss and left my pid’s default. So far I’ve had excellent results!! I’ll look into tuning my pid’s, keep up the good work.
@jsc3417
4 жыл бұрын
Are you printing PLA or PETG?
@mspringett
2 жыл бұрын
I just installed the micro Swiss hotend on my Tevo tornado and it is working flawlessly! I don't know exactly what was on it to begin with but it kept clogging it was giving me all sorts of problems. I made the switch and it's working like a dream!
@independentmind1977
5 жыл бұрын
Man, thank you for all the info and not just sending everyone out to get a new hot end. Turns out I don't need one at all and I'm ok with the one that comes with my Ender 3. I do wish you had a Discord channel running for your patrons, I would be all over that! I would recommend it, let your subs discuss among themselves, etc. Think about it!
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
I'm not very familiar with Discord but it's definitely something I'll consider in future.
@Johnn_T
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for another honest and straight up review Michael-I’ve actually bought one of these but am yet to fit it - after watching this I doubt now I will fit it unless I start to have issues with the stock hot end. Cheers
@JasperJanssen
3 жыл бұрын
As long as you’re only printing PLA, the stock should work pretty well. At least until it clogs.
@Captmarksparrow
3 жыл бұрын
@@JasperJanssen mine just clogged. I guess my hand is forced.
@1nvertedReality
4 жыл бұрын
Just got it for my CR10 S5. Really like it. Way better than the stock extruder pushing through a 20+ inch bowden tube.
@revtmyers1
5 жыл бұрын
Guess that's going to be my next upgrade on the CR10. Thanks for the information.
@jsc3417
4 жыл бұрын
@HappyandAtheist why is it bad for PLA?
@echobeefpv8530
5 жыл бұрын
May do this mod in the future, I've done quite a few of the mods you have shown, including the firmware update, etc. Great videos for a beginner like myself !!
@kikainonakanoakuma
3 жыл бұрын
I made the transition to Micro Swiss and I love it. Great video
@broderp
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this video. That's a lot of work if your not doing any high temp filament. It's also above the level of any novice as I had no clue as to what any of the software gcode stuff was that you flew threw. So, since there is no performance gain, I will stick with stock. You saved this noob a lot of money and time.
@WhereNerdyisCool
5 жыл бұрын
Great video and I think it's great you suggest the PID Autotune after the install. I've seen a lot of Facebook group posts where people did this upgrade and had some issues. Many resolved themselves after the PID autotune was run. Keep up the good work!
@vernonleeper7788
4 жыл бұрын
Michael, very good job explaining this. I'm very mew to this community, I have a ender 3 pro and have been following you and Chep to help with my printings. Thanks for tips .
@neurokinetik64ES
4 жыл бұрын
I had one of these on my Ender 3 Pro. It sort of worked, but I was always fighting underextrusion and getting clogs with it, even after PID tuning, and adjusting retraction and temperature settings. I noticed when feeding filament that there seemed to be an excessive amount of friction in the system. In troubleshooting where I was getting that friction, I narrowed it down to the heat sink. As it turns out, the inside of my heat sink is not machined very well, and has noticeable roughness from the drilling process. Kind of like I often see on cheap nozzles.
@jamescox973
2 жыл бұрын
where you able to solve this at all? I am running into the same issues.
@neurokinetik64ES
2 жыл бұрын
@@jamescox973 I switched back to the stock hotend. Obviously won't help if you needed the all metal hotend for higher temp filaments.
@jamescox973
2 жыл бұрын
@@neurokinetik64ES I ended up creating a new profile in my slicer and adjusting the retraction settings. Not sure what settings were causing it, but the issue hasn't re-appeared in my test prints so far
@stepander007
Жыл бұрын
@@neurokinetik64ES @jamescox973 Having the same issue. Thought that All Metall is an Upgrade. But such system is so specific. Having clogs constantly all the time. Can't make it works. My direction is to change heatbreack to the PTFE one and compare. Next step is to change heatbreack to the one that allow PTFE tube pass to the nozzle and use high temp PTFE for nylon and PET printing. I heard about Capricorn PTFE as an 300 option.
@spikekent
5 жыл бұрын
Great instructions Michael. My experiences installing the Micro Swiss hotend on the CR-10s were that same as yours, the upgrade was very easy indeed, I too had to raise the BL Touch 2mm by removing the spacers (nuts). Regarding the PID settings, I add them to the start gcode in S3D, it makes it easier to change the setting for different filaments, although I currently use PLA for the most part, I will be using PETG etc too after the Keenovo heatbed upgrade is done. I may well upgrade the cooling duct and fans at some point to because ..... well, why not :-)
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
Good to hear yours has gone well. I agree modding for the sake of it is addictive.
@AlanGonzalez-om4rr
5 жыл бұрын
If you're using BLTouch you have flashed the firmware, so... why aren't you saving the settings to the eeprom? you forgot to enable it before flashing?
@spikekent
5 жыл бұрын
@@AlanGonzalez-om4rr Hi, I have flashed my firmware and enabled eeprom, running completely custom Marlin 1.1.9. I keep my PID settings in the slicer (S3D) so that I can have separate PID settings for individual filament types without needing to alter them in eeprom. I just find it easier that way. Either way is perfectly fine. Hope this helps
@AlanGonzalez-om4rr
5 жыл бұрын
@@spikekent The PID have nothing to do with the filament, it's heater-oriented... You should change it if you q
@spikekent
5 жыл бұрын
@@AlanGonzalez-om4rr You're quite right, it is heater related, although, by definition it does affect the filament. However, by putting the PID settings in the start gcode in the slicer, it sends that code to the printer before the print starts, thereby setting the PID values for that print only. Thats why I find it easier this way. When I change to a different filament (say PETG) I have a profile for that, including different PID settings, so again, the PID values for that filament are used for that print. For example, the PID command for PLA in my slicer is this M301 P41.81 I6.63 D65.93 ; PID Values 215C Micro Swiss. The bits after the semi-colon are just comments to remind me of what the setting is for.
@FumetsuNoAnataE
5 жыл бұрын
Wow, I have a ton to learn. I saw the Merlin video that helped me understand what Merlin was, but I'm still confused by how fast you speed through your tutorials. I appreciate it a ton, but as soon as you got past the installation and got into the firmware, I was just completely lost. Then again, I'm new to 3D Printing. In fact, I have not even received my Ender 3 Pro yet (it comes in on Friday the 26th). I'm simply looking at tutorials so that when I do get my printer, I won't mess it up or be completely lost. I'm excited to upgrade my printer to get the absolute best quality out of my prints, but I likely won't do anything for a while. Regardless I enjoy learning and I will upgrade eventually. Maybe when I get my printer and begin upgrading, I will understand the more technical side of these tutorials. As of now, I want to upgrade: Motherboard to TMC2208 (for the silent steppers), All Metal Hotend, Direct Driver, Hero Me Fan Duct, and install a Raspberry Pi. I want to learn this info but I don't know any type of scripting or related software and it's all so daunting!
@mjcambron
4 жыл бұрын
Be patient. The Ender 3 is capable of very good parts in stock configuration. If you don't initially get good parts in stock configuration it's tempting to start upgrading but I would caution against this approach. Over time you will learn to tweak your machine and this will serve you better than chasing every upgrade.
@johnm.gerard1718
3 жыл бұрын
Love your videos. Looks pretty straight forward since I have install/reinstall the e3D Hotend on my other printer. Q: it looks like you did not add heatsink compound to the heat break. Just to be sure. I added Heat sync compound to mine. I guess it does not hurt to do so. I do like that I can use the wrench tool to hold the heat break and tighten the nozzle with a socket wrench. Much, Much easier than using a pair of pliers to try to hold the very hot heater block while trying not to get burned. Again, So much easier and safer.
@nielsjohnson-laird6589
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for another great video. I've been considering switching to an all metal hot-end so I can print Nylon/Carbon Fiber filament.
@Everett-xe3eg
5 жыл бұрын
Very informative channel. I've watched quite a few of your videos of FFF and your lowrider. Good quality intro statements that grab attention. Good editing and nice cadence of information.
@JMNTN
3 жыл бұрын
something i also do when mounting my hot end is make sure it is perfectly square with the bed because the holes have some play
@oleurgast730
5 жыл бұрын
Nice video. I have not tested this hotend myself, but I got the microswiss heatbreak for my Prusa i3 mk3. It had already an e3d allmetal heatbreak, but I sometimes had clogging. With the microswiss heatbreak I had no clogging at all. The coating of microswiss seem to very good; it has less friction than other allmetal hotends. Normaly allmetal means problems with PLA. So its a decision between PTFE Inliner (good in PLA but no high temperatures) or allmetal (good for high temperatures, but PLA on low temperatures tends to lower print quality). So your video is very useful, as it shows you can use the allmetal microswiss hotend without loosing print quality with PLA. I do not know if there are any allmetal hotends from china to compare. But If there are, adding an comparation to the microswiss would be useful. That should show a lower quality in PLA with an uncoated heatbreak. Trianglelabs even warn to use allmetal for PLA (and their chinese clones are the more quality ones). So I think result should be: If you use only low-temp materials, stay to the stock hotend. But if you want the possiblity to print high-temp, using allmetal from microswiss will not reduce quality in printing PLA like other allmetal hotends might do.
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the detailed feedback.
@mpcaz
5 ай бұрын
I printed a Fang with 5015 Fan for my stock Tevo Tornado hotend. Just put on this same MicroSwiss on my TEVO but my Fan doesn't fit any more. I was able to find a modified Fang for Micro Swiss and BLTouch on Thingiverse. Thanks for the installation steps.. so very easy but I think my old heater and thermister are bad and I have new ones on hand.
@JimmyJames420
5 жыл бұрын
Awesome info! PID autotune via Octoprint!? So great, multiple options for setting PID values (eeprom, firmware, start code)
@JeffsAquaponics
5 жыл бұрын
I’ve been printing ABS on an Ender 3 pro with removable magnetic bed for well over a month at 110C without any problems.
@aman11283
4 жыл бұрын
It's been a year now. Any problems longer term?
@JeffsAquaponics
4 жыл бұрын
A Kalia none at all. Still printing ABS on the same removable magnetic bead.
@aman11283
4 жыл бұрын
@@JeffsAquaponics Thanks for the reply. I just went ahead and printed ABS at 100C on this machine, for the last 2 weeks. Only issue I can see is that the surface sheet can be peeled away from the magnet more easily when it is hot, i guess because the glue softens. Edit: The adhesive has now become a problem several days later leading to it pulling up and part warping as a result.
@tronskifpv
5 жыл бұрын
Another good one. Everyone forgets there is a reason for PTFE in the throat and they fixate on temps they will never use.
@saltysteel3996
3 жыл бұрын
Been using the stock hotend with Capricorn tubing and a hardened steel nozzle for printing CF nylon at 258 C. Running Marlin firmware. Textured glass bed with glue stick.
@jasonking7570
3 жыл бұрын
Um.... does the Capricorn tubing have a different melt temp from PTFE?
@AngryRamboShow
5 жыл бұрын
Mikey, I might end up upgrading to the Micro Swiss all metal hot end eventually. I have one of their tempered steel nozzles which is suppose to stand up to more abrasive materials, but I've only used PETG and PLA on it so far. Unfortunately I couldn't find anything other than the standard .4mm nozzles, and they're a little pricey, but maybe you could do a video on those for the Tevo T or the Ender 3. Any how, good to see you again, and Merry Christmas.
@jamescullins2709
5 жыл бұрын
Great video very good info, I just ordered on and am looking fwd to putting it on my CR-10. Thanks
@TheHalfNelson
2 жыл бұрын
“Simply stunning”….👍🏻
@swiftrick15
5 жыл бұрын
The benefit might also be in less chances of a clogged extruder. So that in itself is a gain. Thumbs up
@antcri730
4 жыл бұрын
probably slightly more chance of a clog due to increased friction on the filament
@mailtome7654
4 жыл бұрын
it's actually the opposite
@swiftrick15
4 жыл бұрын
@@mailtome7654 What?
@driftx2
2 жыл бұрын
good to know it doesn't really improve print quality. I love videos like this then i don't need to spend on mods I don't need!
@DerekMatthews
5 жыл бұрын
Wow cool video. Thank you.
@Sabotage_Labs
2 жыл бұрын
Have one on my Voxelab Aquila and... works like a dream. Solid upgrade and very easy to do. Gonna mod my Merlin (alex's) firmware to crank up to 300c on the hotend. Great video in this channel to mod firmware. Waiting for it to cool off (in Phoenix) so I can vent ABS outta a window. Wanna try stuff like carbon black. This hotend works great for PLA and PLA+... obviously... PETG and TPU. Doing 20 and 30% wood PLA+ now aa well. Just need a bigger nozzle like TPU. At least a .05. .06 seems to work better for TPU. Yes... PID! Gotta do it. Very easy. Will get rid of most temp 112 (I think) kills too! I like to cycle a little higher. Like 15 cycles. PID that hotend!!!
@chloemcholoe3280
5 жыл бұрын
Those hotends are insanely expensive while the clones cost 5_10$. Are they reaaaally worth it!?
@CoyoteFPV
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the great videos, they are extremely helpful ! At one point of the video you said you reduced retraction to 4mm and would explain later in the video but then didn't touch on it anymore. Could you explain why you dropped it back for the test ? Many thanks
@chaddthompson
4 жыл бұрын
I can't explain exactly why he did it but with an all metal hotend if you retract too much filament has a tendency to jam because if you pull it out of the molten heat break area into the cooled part of the hotend it will jam. Seems like hotends with ptfe tube all the way down to the nozzle are less prone to this.
@RadPuppies
5 жыл бұрын
Also, NylonX (also at MatterHackers) only needs a bed temp of 60-65C, so more Nylon filament options for the Ender-3...
@dalewhitmore143
3 жыл бұрын
Are the micro swiss and creality stock end nozzles interchangeable?
@akshatshah3717
3 жыл бұрын
yes!
@SteinerSE
4 жыл бұрын
Your thoughts on Micro Swiss vs E3D V6 ?
@grantv2313
2 жыл бұрын
Its funny. Ender 3 is the “budget printer”. Only $250. One year later you have 4-$500 worth of upgrades in it plus printed upgrades.
@DeadBaron
3 жыл бұрын
I know this is old, but if you can't connect via USB or network to your printer, just create a text file, name it tunePID.gcode, and paste the following without quotes in it: "M303 S250 C10 X1;" Just run it like a print and it edits the PID and saves to EEPROM due to that X1 switch
@Jamesbond22855
4 жыл бұрын
I've installed this hot end twice now according to the manufacturer instruction video. It continually jams after the first layer, using Inland PLA, and the stock extruder. I just built a vented enclosure and it didn't jam once before I put the doors on it. I've tried zero retraction, hotter temps, colder temps, I don't get it. Maybe heat creep? I completely disassembled it earlier and cleaned it out. I'm using a Petsfang Bullseye duct, also. Debating putting thermal compound inside the part that screws into the top of the heater block, something. I haven't moved the electronics outside of the case yet but I plan to, that may keep the heat down a touch also.
@Brizzle_718
5 жыл бұрын
I want to see some one install one of these on an old printer that has been used my old wires were so brittle they broke so I had to re wire it to the board know one on KZitem shows any of the soldering it would be a big hit if you did this
@captianmorgan7627
4 жыл бұрын
I love when companies rebrand everything. "Capricorn tubing cutter". Ha, the same $5 cutter you get everywhere, just blue.
@pentachronic
4 жыл бұрын
Print a V block with a slot for a straight razor. $0.10.
@baronchatdelamort3522
3 жыл бұрын
I believe that the capricorn tubing kit just comes with the cutter, also a 4 pack of replacement nozzles... so it was more of a freebie for 9 bucks...
@jamescox973
2 жыл бұрын
Ever since I added the micro swiss to my ender 3 pro, I have been getting under extruded layers half way up. I thought it might be a heat issue, but adding more heat just made it worse. My retraction setting is currently set for 5mm.
@ZacharyGuyWentworth
2 жыл бұрын
Not sure your other issues but 5 is way too high for DD. I have mine at . 5 and it's perfect. Start at 1 and see if you get any change.
@ced.j
5 жыл бұрын
How will this upgrade work with the original cooling fan? Since it's slightly shorter than original.
@michaelarenas9185
3 жыл бұрын
This , is why I am having terrible stringing probably
@enriquefuentesc
3 жыл бұрын
Big fan of your videos. I know this is an old one, but I wanted to ask, would I need to change the Thermisor on the stock ender 3 v2 to be able to print at 280 - 300° with this Micro Swiss hotend? I need to print some Nylon parts for a project and I am looking for alternatives to upgrade. Either this or the E3D V6 have my current interest.
@ApacheFPV
3 жыл бұрын
Ive had nothing but trouble with this kit unfortunately.. nonstop stringing and oozing no matter how much i tune. about to switch to a v6
@josephploettner7327
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@berner57
4 жыл бұрын
I have ordered this for my CR10S Pro, I have a few quick questions about the PID tuning. 1. If I run the PID tuning, do we still up the temp about 5 degrees, or does the PID tune take care of that? 2. I usually run PLA, so I would PID tune for PLA temps. If I do a few PETG or other hi temp filaments, is it a good idea to retune the PID at those temps first? If so, is it a good idea to PID tune at each temp, take note of the values, and just edit the start code accordingly based on material?
@heeder777
5 жыл бұрын
I’ve got one to sell. Make me an offer. (Half price would be reasonable) I really didn’t have any luck with it on the Ender 3, as a matter of fact, don’t do anything to it. It is what it is a nice low cost 3D printer. Short of a few prints to cover the electronics under the controller, a cool looking hood to stop crap from being drawn into the fan and a a filament guide. Leave it along. I’ve found that regarding this little printer, if it ain’t broke you can’t fix it.
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
Hence my comment at the start about this not being an essential mod. Glad yours is going well.
@richardburguillos3118
5 жыл бұрын
Impressive... How about the Ender 5??
@roadstar499
4 жыл бұрын
I had my stock ender 5 hot end fail and has petg covering it and the nozzle almost completely... i want to install this all metal hot end...the part that i wont be able to do is changing firmware for temps... is this really necessary??? cant i just use a hand held infared and check temps and if it says 220 on ender and my hand held unit says 200 just crank it up 20 degrees??? thanks
@MRT_H
5 жыл бұрын
Question! Does the Micro Swiss accept standard nozzles for the ender 3? Or does it use a proprietary nozzle thread?
@SuperAcerx
5 жыл бұрын
I believe both have M6 metric threads.
@MarcJWebbMusic
2 жыл бұрын
after installing, I have been having bad under extrusion issues. any tips please :)
@CuguTuxo
5 жыл бұрын
Thankyou for saving my 70 bucks!
@gravit853
4 жыл бұрын
Can you review the microswiss direct drive kit?
@Battlewear
5 жыл бұрын
I would love to see a review / comparison video of a Micro Swiss all metal hot end vs a E3D Lite6, I would be very interested to know how they compare for the Ender 3..
@galinouprod2692
5 жыл бұрын
Did extruder’s bar screw can be inoxydable? Why did we use only small black carbon screw to lock the extruder hot end instead of long inoxydable? Does this change something ?Thank you
@KrankProduction
5 жыл бұрын
Hello there I need some help I'm getting a ender 3 for Christmas because you have inspired me. But my question is do you just plug your printer in a normal plug or something else because a ender 3 pulls 15amps
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
The printer might pull 15 ampsbut that is from the 24v output of the power supply. The mains current from the wall is no where near this so a normal plug is fine.
@salmander
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video, Michael. I am in the same boat as John T. The only thing I am thinking is I have started to try out printing with PETG now. And PETG prints at a temperature of up to 245 so wondering if I should make the change now.
@tronskifpv
5 жыл бұрын
No standard is fine for PETG and beneficial for all filaments other than PC or nylon.
@nielsjohnson-laird6589
5 жыл бұрын
I've been printing with Amazon Basics PETG at 240C for a couple of months now (with the Ender-3). No real problems, especially compared to printing ABS on my old UP Plus 2 -- there was always an odor problem with that! Side-note: I did get odd fumes for the first few hours of printing (Ender-3), not sure if this was the kapton tape baking to the heater block or machine oil burning off. The only big change I have done on my 'stock' Ender-3 is to replace the standard PTFE tubing with the Capricorn XS (PTFE) tubing. Still printing PETG at 240C without problems. If you are concerned about fumes from the PTFE tubing then I suggest you setup *active* ventilation. I have an extractor fan in my workshop which I run when the 3D printer(s) are running.
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
Agree with everyone here, stock is fine for petg.
@abarasabwehttam
5 жыл бұрын
Here I just asked on the FB group if they were the same bolt pattern. I been having issues with my Prusa getting the PLA stock in the heat break. Has worked fine for months and now cant get a single print to work. Ordered the Micro Swiss E3D Replacement that allows the tube all the way down the heat break. Hopefully better results.
@greghauptmann
5 жыл бұрын
I'm getting a filament blocking occuring about 15 minutes into printing when using flexible filament??? I've upgraded my Ender-3 to have both the MicroSwiss Hot End and the EZR extruder (I needed the latter as previous to this the flexible filament was getting stuck in the extruder). So about 15 minutes in or so I hear the "clicking" noises from the extruder, that I'm guessing is indicating it can't push more filament through the hot end. I confirmed this when I tried to push manually the filament through the hot end. This has occurred for two types of filament I’ve tried. I’m printing with: * Temp in mid range for filament I’m using * Print Speed: 25mm/s (although I just noted infill speed is 42mm/s & I’m doing 100% infill- potential issue? * Travel Speed: 120mm/s * Fan: 50% * Retraction: NO * Nozzle - the one that came with the MicroSwiss Any suggestions?
@bernhard8540
3 жыл бұрын
im newer to 3d printing but i have been wondering why nobody i have watched uses a torque wrench for anything? not complaining just curious as to why, because if you think about it, wouldn't you want everything torqued for the most part because you dont want it moving during print..? idk just figured it was weird that none uses one :)
@chuxxsss
5 жыл бұрын
Another good episode mate. Big thumbs up for this one.
@ILEFTCAPS0N
2 жыл бұрын
I just installed my micro swiss direct drive on my Ender 3 v2. I've been trying to calibrate my e-steps, but when it starts to extrude it makes a horrible clicking/skipping/grinding sound. I've adjusted the tension arm a ton and the only time it won't make the noise is when the screw is when the knob is barely screwed on, but then it doesn't seem to grip the filiament.
@MichaelMitchell93
5 жыл бұрын
Hey, your videos have been a great help setting up my Ender 3, must have watched the firmware upgrade one 5 times! Which Noctua fan is that and how did you fit it to the Ender 3?
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
Hi Michael, here is the video where I installed it. It is a 40x10, perfect so far but on paper a 40x20 would be even better. kzitem.info/news/bejne/2o1v1aqlcnV5nGU
@RandomEndeavors
5 жыл бұрын
Mine keeps clogging after several prints and i have to clean it out then go to the point wear i never had a good print if you check the one stars on Amazon most say the same thing as it cools down filament hardens and does not reheat causing a block.
@woodwaker1
5 жыл бұрын
I have had the same problem on my Ender 5. I'm trying some custom gcode at the end of the print to retract filament so that it does not sit in the hot end and then cool. Otherwise the hot end is very well built and easy to install. I have had a terrible time changing filament, can't get the old filament out
@g00fysmiley
5 жыл бұрын
You have a lot of upgrade videos on the ender 3 some seem cool others duds. Realistically its a $200 US printer. If you were only willing to spend $100 US or AU equivilant on upgrades to get the best performance what upgrades would you do. (I figure 50% cost is the reasonable beginning investment point but maybe that is just me.)
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
My favourite paid mods are bltouch, ezr extruder and cap tubing. That should add up to under us $100.
@g00fysmiley
5 жыл бұрын
@@TeachingTech thanks! Will scroll through your vids to look at those! Might do more mods down the road but that's my jumping in point for when my ender 3 gets here (ordered tuesday)
@dodgeman010101
4 жыл бұрын
I don't know if this is been an ass but I just picked up one of these and would like to clarify I'm with the nozzle sizes that is being used on this hot and thank you for your time
@youngster30uk
4 жыл бұрын
Comes with a 0.4 mk8 nozzle Csn buy microswiss nozzle for this from 0.2 to 0.8
@JT-jy2sy
4 жыл бұрын
Will this be compatible with ender 3 v2?
@imprimindoideiasem3d
2 жыл бұрын
beautiful
@bepstein111
2 жыл бұрын
LOL ugh the DPT shoutout hahah
@madrian_hello
5 жыл бұрын
Great video. Any plans on linear bearing on your Ender 3?
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
Maybe if I run out of other things to do on it.
@bencooler2003
5 жыл бұрын
Michael, do you think you could do a more in-depth video with manual mesh bed leveling, unless you have a video that goes more in-depth with starting scripts and gcode editing, I can’t get the bed leveling to save to the firmware or get recalled in the starting script, let alone how to do it properly. Thanks!
@alex.cristescu
5 жыл бұрын
If you do a bed leveling, save it with M500 and when you restart the printer it's not saved it means you have an older version of Marlin (newer ones have supposedly fixed this). I am also running an older version and I have working bed leveling by putting "M420 S1" in the starting script of the slicer (after G28), or manually adding this line in the generated gcode, just ensure it's after the G28 command.
@kevfquinn
5 жыл бұрын
Aside - there's an option RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 (uncomment in configuration.h) to deal with G28 resetting the mesh - useful for the manual mesh bed levelling when you really don't want to re-level every print! Still need M420 S1 to activate it following power-up.
@NaveenKumar-rx9zk
5 жыл бұрын
Get yourself a 23.5 x 23.5 cm mirror glass and use it as bed problem solved no need of all this bed levelling hackery shit, why mirror glass? u may ask it's because it has to be flat to view our reflection, it cools down quickly and heats quickly too, easy on plastic no traces of plastic as such once printing is done.
@oleurgast730
5 жыл бұрын
@@NaveenKumar-rx9zk Glass add a huge weight to y-axis. You should print in lower speed to avoid ringing/ghosting. Also it is very simple to make a magnetic bed for ender3. If you get an PEI powder coated spring steel sheet from thekkiinngg (Version 3) you get the nicest surface money can buy (better than Prusa PEI powder coated). A spring steel made for Prusa mk3 fits in Ender 3, If you rotate the spring steel by 90°. And its less weight than a mirror.
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
Hi Ben, in case you missed it the Ender 3 beginner fixes has the final section on manual mesh bed levelling.
@stephenkosloff6081
4 жыл бұрын
stepper driver has voltage (extruder) but doesnt power motor on my ender 3, the cables test out as working, when i swap out the xyz, the extruder motor works - what is the next test ?
@lucasdacampo1335
5 жыл бұрын
Hello, i read some complains about problems with Micro Swiss. After using it can you recommend it? I want to upgrade my creality ender 3 hotend but if i am going to pay for a brand new hotend i want it to be better with better quality prints. Otherwise wich one would you recommend now?
@johnm.gerard1718
3 жыл бұрын
Hi, I installed my Micro Swiss into my Ender 3 Max printer. Q: 1: why did you cut off about 1 inch of PTFE tubing before inserting it into the hotend? 2: The bigger question; Does the full 1" of tubing go into the hotend? I can only get a few mm to go into my hotend? Thank You
@yogimarkmac
4 жыл бұрын
I've got a highly customized original i3 clone. I like printing in PETG and push the 250C limit, so I thought the Micro Swiss all metal heat tube would be a nice upgrade. I was sold on the low friction easy release coating and hoped it would help me print faster. Heat break and all that was properly setup. After more than a dozen failed prints (none more than 20 layers high) at various feed rates, temperature, and retraction settings, I gave up. I tried PLA, and PETG: both would end up stuck inside the tube and my extruder gear would eventually just carve out a notch in the filament. I put a new standard teflon feed tube back on and I'm back to trouble free printing. Bottom line: it's not an upgrade, don't use it unless you HAVE TO for special filament.
@ramtek2702
4 жыл бұрын
Here's a theoretical question for you. The heatsink on any hot end is suppose to stay as cool as possible. If it actually gets hot enough to outgas PTFE then won't it also get hot enough to (at least) soften the filament in an all metal hot end? BTW, what do you do with that coded sticker that allows access to the instructions? Doesn't it require some sort of "magic wand"? How many people have that? Also, there are some negative reviews on the Micro Swiss website concerning the Bowden fitting on top of the heatsink. They have replaced the normal fitting with something that doesn't seal properly (IMHO) and I wrote to tell them I wouldn't buy their product as long as they are using it.
@ramtek2702
2 жыл бұрын
@Russell White That doesn't help since I don't carry a smart phone.
@ramtek2702
2 жыл бұрын
@Nobody comments are not funny you troglodyte I don't seem to be having a problem communicating with you.
@coffinsnail6930
5 жыл бұрын
Waiting for ya to make a how to on mks gen l v1.0 board with tmc2208 drivers. Hint hint lol
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
I have a set of 2130s sitting ready to play with next week. Hopefully it goes smoothly.
@charlieswindells7724
2 жыл бұрын
Amazing video, if this new Hot End comes supplied with a hardened nozzle, does this mean all previous print files need to be modified to increase the melt temperature, accounting for lower heat conduction from the HZ? If not can you still operate with a brass nozzle?
@JasonSmith-pc6kr
2 жыл бұрын
I have been having problems with clogging with PLA, PLA+ and PETG on Ender 3 V2. I calibrated all the stepper motors and calibrated the e stepper twice. It prints the 20mm test cubes almost perfect with no problems, but when I try to print something medium to large, the e stepper motor slowly starts skipping and gets worse as the print goes on, eventually it completely clogs the hot end. I've ran different test in Cura and have tried different things in Cura like temps, retraction, extrusion and speed. I have wondered if a "bad" hot end would cause clogging, because after a week of troubleshooting I'm about to give this hobby up. :( I know my filament to good, I have printed lithophanes, medium size boxes, articulating butterfly, all kinds of stuff with no problems. I don't what happened or what changed.
@Matthew-np9fk
2 жыл бұрын
4:08 you really should’ve been more clear about how tight it should be, mine wasn’t tight at all and it still stripped immediately.
@toninig
4 жыл бұрын
How would you use this with the direct feed use demonstrated
@mikemcloughlin7844
4 жыл бұрын
Anyone know where I can get Cura profile/settings for MicroSwiss, Ender 3 (Bowden set up) , PLA?
@muddywaterfishing
4 жыл бұрын
You ever find anything?
@thisismyviewingchannel926
4 жыл бұрын
what is the max temp you can do with the stock thermester and heater cartage
@AntonioSilva-pw4wd
4 жыл бұрын
i literally bought an all metal heat break throat for like $5 and shoved it in mine to make an "all metal hot end". i don't think its safe but i was able to purge pla threw it, havent tried to print yet
@davethomaspilot
3 жыл бұрын
If the micro swiss hot end is slightly shorter, why do you need to remove spacing washers from the BL-touch? Can't you just use a new Z-offset? It should be slightly larger--if the Micro Swiss is shorter, the head will be slightly farther from the bed when the BL touch triggers. But, unless the head touches the bed when auto-levelling, does it even matter? Confused...
@Mrpablotortas
4 жыл бұрын
why nobody is talking about the hotend titanium throat for the stock ender 3 extruder???
@ggriego58
8 ай бұрын
Do you have any new reviews on today's best hotends for the ender 3. 2024
@wolneylondres
4 жыл бұрын
Good afternoon, I know that being out of the topic, I have a problem when I am finishing a job, the entrepreneur ender 3 loses the line and gets to print in the air, and already two the tube that came with it clogged and got untouched, will that printer who loses the location must be because of the tube, if possible it will be because of the tube, if the capricorn tube is the best solution for me. Thank you, great channel.
@avejst
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing :-) But is it possible to get a 300oC with the marlin software, without change in the firmware? What will the thermister say to 300oC? is the plastic isolator at the leads to the thermister OK with this temperature?, it the Thermistor linear at 300oC? Thanks again for your great job, of sharing your passion to all of us :-)
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
Firstly, what are you printing that needs 300? You could change the thermistor to a higher quality/known brand one of the same value (firmware is set to " // 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup")
@TeachingTech
5 жыл бұрын
Just checked the thermistor tables in marlin, the thermistor is rated with an upper value of 300. You would still need to up your maxtemp value in configuration.h
@qwewer6
4 жыл бұрын
Did you experience "sticking" with PLA? If yes, did you consider polishing the filament path with a wool string and polishing paste?
@LifewithLewy
4 жыл бұрын
I’ve been struggling for like 30 mins to get the Bowden tube down inside the new hot end. After watching this video it seems as if the tube only slides in a few mm. Is this true? It doesn’t go in near as far as the original hot end?
@KaeptnBlaubaerXD
4 жыл бұрын
That’s basically the idea behind all metall. To have no PTFE and a possibly clogging gap near the nozzle.
@deltafire5058
5 жыл бұрын
I've been printing Glow in the dark PLA (HATCHBOX) with a standard brass nozzle with no noticeable degradation. I'd say I've gone through almost 1KG of it so far. Any input on how abrasive Glow filament is or when I would start to see a loss in quality?
@DeniaLol
2 жыл бұрын
I’ve seen some glow filaments wear out a brass nozzle within an hour of printing while other glow filaments print through the whole spool with no noticeable wear
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