Part 1 - Demo - • Enlarging a closet Par...
Part 2 - Framing Prep - THIS VIDEO
Part 3 - Framing - • Enlarging a Closet Par...
Part 4 - Door Hanging - • Enlarging a Closet Par...
Part 5 - Electrical - • Enlarging a Closet Par...
Part 6 - Drywall - • Enlarging a Closet Par...
Part 7 - Wrap-up - • Enlarging a Closet Par...
Bosch Laser Level: amzn.to/3I7qg7c
Bosch Laser Measure: amzn.to/49qRT70
Kassa White Chalk Markers: amzn.to/48sjS58
DeWalt Reciprocating Saw: amzn.to/42SM8wp
Rockwell Oscillating Tool: amzn.to/3wD8VAg
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I am expanding a small closet to make it bigger and more useful. I'm planning to blow it out to be flush with the wall, just past the light switch that you can see. Unfortunately, before I can build, I have to demolish. If you want to fast forward to the framing, go to 0:45 mark. First I'm taking care of the drywall that needs to go. I'm carefully scoring the corners with a utility knife, hoping to cut through the drywall tape. In some cases I'm using my oscillating tool to make deeper cuts. I got frustrated and started using a hammer at one point. It took ten messy minutes to do this job.
Next I used my De Walt reciprocating saw to take out the studs that aren't going to stay, along with the last sheet rock. I'm actually planning to leave the studs that are showing in the final build, rather than finish over them. I'm not getting paid to do this, and I certainly don't mind a few warts in a basement storage closet.
Now it gets more interesting. I'm using this Bosch digital measuring tool to compute the width of the closet.
These washable white chalk markers will be useful to mark the edge of the wall on the floor.
I turn the measuring tool on and it shines a laser beam across the room. You are looking for the shortest distance from the tool to the wall. This is perpendicular to the wall. Here, the distance is 3 feet 9 and 15 32nd inches.
I start at a known location. Where the new wall meets the existing wall. At that point, I use the measurement tool to get a distance to the other wall. Then I move over to multiple points along the wall and measure the same distance to the opposite wall. In doing this, I am assuming that the house is perfectly square. From past experience I know this isn't true, but I don't really care. I just want the inside of the closet to have an equal width. After this process is complete, I have a few points that I can connect into a straight line. I did that for both walls, and here you can see the outline of the stud wall drawn on the floor.
Now for the fun part. I bought a Bosch 3 axis laser level. You put the laser level on the ground and match the ground beam to the white lines that I drew on the floor. The laser level will project a horizontal line onto the ceiling. This tells you where to fix the top of the stud wall. I am looking confused because I've found a problem.
Here's the problem. Follow the green line up the wall. If the existing wall was straight, the vertical green line would follow the wall perfectly. The wall is about three quarters of an inch, tilting to the left. Obviously, the new wall has to match the old wall. I tapered the pencil line from matching the existing wall to matching the green line. I hope that makes sense.
Once I figured out how to handle the leaning walls, I was off to the races and able to mark the location of both stud walls on the ceiling. The Bosch laser level has been fantastic. It was a little expensive, but I have another framing project after this one. To wrap up the video, here's the lines on the floor and ceiling that I will force the walls to fit. Stay tuned for the next video, where I start framing.
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