Hi.Thank you for such a good video.I followed a very similar procedure with my UJs.It went very well except that the replacement joints were faulty and I was unable to press the caps in far enough to get the circlips in. Supplier was very good and replacements were perfect.Looking forward to the next video Pete M.
@fossewayclassiccarworkshop
2 жыл бұрын
Many thanks Peter, glad you’re enjoying the videos. Has been a while since my last, the next won’t be too long from now!
@mizzai509
2 жыл бұрын
Very good I don’t have an interest in cars, yet this video was extremely interesting.
@fossewayclassiccarworkshop
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you ☺️
@alastairmulholland-cox345
2 жыл бұрын
Nice series … I bet that was a chunk of work. Thx for sharing and looking forward to the next one.
@fossewayclassiccarworkshop
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks very much, yes its a game of slow progress and patience but ultimately worth it! Thank you for watching :)
@daveallen8248
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for posting. I found this video looking for advice on installing the felt seals on the hub carrier / wishbone outer fulcrum. The visible felt @16:47 didn't look right, and after a further research I think the felt seals should be installed slightly differently to that shown in the video. Here's what I believe to be the correct order (also consistent with the factory workshop manual and illustrated parts book): First after the bearing is spacer C20180. Then the seal container C20179 is pushed in (Use a vice or press). The idea is the spacer will hold the container clear of the bearing. Then install the seal track / seating ring C16628. The felt seal goes in annular space between the seating ring and the container. I soaked the felt seals in oil for 24 hours first. I found them too springy if left dry. Then a retaining washer C20182 goes over the felt seal. This arrangement protects the felt seal behind the washer, and does resemble the arrangement seen on disassembly. The centering shims are set up without the seal in place as shown in the video. I hope this is helpful!
@fossewayclassiccarworkshop
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Dave, what you might have seen in the video is from a dry build to get the clearances set before I did the final assembly. I'm sure I fitted it all in the correct order, but you're right it does need careful thinking about as some of the parts sit inside others. At the point of final assembly I applied grease to the felt seal to help it stay in place and help it do its job. Obviously when you force grease via the nipple into the lower fulrum shaft the grease will find its way to the seal and start to work its way through and around it so I prefer grease to using oil though I'm sure both with be satisfactory.
@ianalderton6683
Жыл бұрын
excellent everything- I almost hope that I never have to do this, but when . . . be prepared : )
@fossewayclassiccarworkshop
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Ian. If I can do it…
@RichardMichaelOwen
Жыл бұрын
Rear Hub Carrier Spacer C19110 sets the end float, not the hub nut for clearance. There is a measurement to check for spacers that range from 0.109 to 0.151 to get the correct clearance.
@fossewayclassiccarworkshop
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Richard, this is one area I need to return to on the IRS. The castellated hub nuts I removed are larger than the replacement ones I have sourced so the holes don’t align with the castellations for the split pin. I’m going to revisit that setup before it’s all refitted as I haven’t torqued it all up yet. Thanks for the part number and advice ☺️
@RichardMichaelOwen
Жыл бұрын
@@fossewayclassiccarworkshop I just took apart one with newer hub nuts and it used an extra thick washer. The combination of a specified torque rating and a split pin is kinda silly to be honest. Shims would work too.
@conceptalfa
8 ай бұрын
👍👍👍!!!
@km-ti8gc
9 ай бұрын
At 11:00 you say that the rear wheel bearing clearance is .01mm right in the middle of the tolerance? Yet you say the correct tolerance is .05 to .15mm
@mrfudgierubber
Жыл бұрын
I have followed you from day one, your finer detail is much appreciated. The spacers are a new one on me do they represent the yoke thickness and Michael Owen's part no is the nut at SNG
@fossewayclassiccarworkshop
Жыл бұрын
Thank you very much, I’m glad you’re enjoying the amount of detail. It’s difficult to know where to draw the line but I try not to waffle or ‘mansplain’ too much! 😅
@rogerrico8692
2 жыл бұрын
What product did/would you use to conserve and color the individual parts of the IRS? I'm chemically derusting the big parts and sandblast the smaller ones. However they need a permanent finish after sandblasting. What did you use? Heard good things about POR15's line of products. All the best :)
@fossewayclassiccarworkshop
2 жыл бұрын
Hi Roger, I’ve used POR 15. Have a look in one of the previous episodes as I’ve done similar to you having had the parts sand blasted then I’ve painted all the black components with POR-15 and had the rest re-plated.
@rogerrico8692
2 жыл бұрын
@@fossewayclassiccarworkshop thanks for the quick answer. I'll look into it :)
@AircooledAl
2 жыл бұрын
Currently building up the fulcrum shafts myself, couldnt figure out why the felt seals with covers and rings kept stopping the bearings once knocked in 👎 any advice?
@fossewayclassiccarworkshop
2 жыл бұрын
Hi Al, sorry, not sure I fully understand. Do you mean the bearings are seizing or feeling stuck when you put the felt seals etc in?
@AircooledAl
2 жыл бұрын
@@fossewayclassiccarworkshop the metal felt seal housing was fouling the bearing when pushed in to position, causing it to seize. Fear not, i have cleaned up the old ones and used those instead just this morning. Typical new shite quality parts. All good now, thanks for replying!
@paddygains4058
2 жыл бұрын
Anywhere in particular you source parts for Jaguar please ?
@fossewayclassiccarworkshop
2 жыл бұрын
I tend to use Martin Robey as they're quite near to where I live as well as SNG Barratt. Jaguar Classic are improving their stock of OEM parts now as well so I'll be keeping an eye on them too.
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