00:00 Important Intro
00:25 What you'll need for cleat installation and shoe positioning
01:23 Marking the 1st metatarsal and mid-point of the back of the shoe.
02:00 How we are going to test out the TP1 system
02:36 Now we resume cleat installation
06:02 Preliminary Results
06:41 Final Results after test ride
06:57 Cleat fine adjustment.
We thought we’d try out the Ergon TP1 system for attaching shimano spd cleats to cycling shoes to see if it’s an improvement over other methods. The TP1 system is also available for spd sl clats, other Shimano cleats and spd cleats, Look Keo cleat and Speedplay cleats and is used in a similar manner. We will show you how to use the TP1 cleat tool for set up cleats. in C and D below.
A. What you'll need for cleat set up:
1. Bicycle cleats
2. TP1 system with stickers (can use a pencil mark or cut a piece of tape if you rather)
3. Hex wrench
4. Pencil
5. Cleats
6. Grease
B: Marking the 1st metatarsal and mid-point of the back of the shoe.
1. Feel for the center of bony protuberance of the big toe. Place a sticker (or mark with pencil) over this point. This is the ideal position of the spinal under the under the 1st metatarsal as shown in recent literature.
2. Place a second sticker in the very center of the back of the shoe.
3. In scenario 1, we'll need another measurement to help us: You'll need to know the angle of rotation of the shoe vs the cleat (i.e., your normal stance - are the feet parallel or are the toes pointed slightly in or out from the center). This can be guessed at by dangling your feet over the edge of a stool or high chair. Or, even better, take a photo with your phone's camera. Gently move your feet up and down, feet slightly apart. Snap a photo with your phone.
C: Installing the cleats with the TP1
1. Grease the bolts and attach the cleat loosely to allow some movement of the cleat.
2. Position the fore/aft so the marker on the metatarsal of the shoe is about 2-3 mm behind the center marker of the TP1 (which marks the pedal spindle). This is the ideal position of the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle as shown in recent research: De-Mystifying the Cycling Shoe/Cleat Position: www.pedalpt.com/fit-your-own-c... If the center of the pedal spindle to far forward, you'll experience pain in the toes and may have pain also in the Achilles tendon. More than 2-3 mm back, you may experience pain in the sole of the foot.
3. Q Factor is the distance between the outside of one crank arm to the outside of the opposite crank arm and is miss quoted in most videos. This is set largely by the manufacturer based on the bottom bracket width and cranks. I usually set the cleat in the mid-point of the bottom of the shoe. With that said however: If you ride with knees narrow at the top of the stroke, move the cleats towards the outside of the shoe and the foot inwards just a mm or two. If you ride with the knees wider at the top of the stroke, move the shoe and foot inwards just a tad.
4. Finally set the angle of rotation to approximate what we saw in the photo. Place a pencil mark on the TP1 grid at the rear shoe marker and metatarsal marker.
5. Move the edge of the TP1 platform over the edge of your work bench, recheck the shoe markings and position. Firmly tighten the cleat bolts with a hex wrench so they won't move out of position when we click in and out of the pedal.
6. Repeat and install the cleat on the other shoe.
7. Go for a ride and see how they work. Make minor readjustments as needed.
8. Torque the cleat bolts to approximately 5 1/2 to 6 Nm.
D. Cleat fine adjustment. Finally, we show you how to make minor adjustments of the cleats to prevent pain/injury and increase comfort. If you experience pain in your toes and / or calves, then move the cleat slightly back. If you experience pain in the sole of the foot, move the cleat slightly forward. If you feel the toe pointed to far in, move the cleat a small amount TOWARD the big toe. If you feel the toe pointed to far out, move the cleat a small amount toward away from the big toe (toward the small toe). Do these adjustments in small increments, tighten the hex bolts and go for a test ride. Repeat until the cleat and shoe feel comfortable. Then torque to 5 - 6 Nm.
The Ergon TP1 system does a good job in cleat installation if you take a photo of foot position as shown, and work slowly but carefully. Sometimes some minor adjustments are needed and are demonstrated in the video. Whether you want to spend the money (around $22) or use other methods is a matter of choice. Ergon also makes a system for Look cleats that work in a similar manner (a video will follow).
References:
De-Mystifying the Cycling Shoe/Cleat Position: www.pedalpt.com/fit-your-own-c...
What is ‘Q Factor’, and does it make a difference? www.cyclingweekly.com/news/la...
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