Such a cool timer! I also use F-Stop printing using Gene's method. First I do test strip to drill down the base exposure with a base of seconds, 4,8,16,32. The stop that looks best is then entered into the F-Stop Calculator app and I get 1/3 stops, do more test strips to confirm the exposure. That's how I do it. The timer sure could come in handy.
@chrisloomis1489
Жыл бұрын
Lina is lovely ; however ....that F Stop Timer .... WOW is a knock out ♥
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
It just overshadows EVERYTHING
@anthonycollingridge970
Жыл бұрын
I've been using the RH Designs Analyser Pro for the past 8 years (its buttons so would not have been to your liking). It was expensive to purchase initially but has paid for itself in terms of flexibility and going straight to the final print (on a lot of occasions) as you can take exposure readings via its dedicated sensor. Its nice to see alternatives emerging onto the market that will hopefully bring the concept f stop printing to a wider audience.
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
Oh yes, the RH designs is I think the most advanced one. It has so many settings, especially memorizing timing sequences... Buttons have been holding me back though :)
@drmoss_ca
Жыл бұрын
I liked the Analyser Pro, and used it with a foot switch. But since I moved to a smaller place my darkroom is limited to daylight loading film tanks and scanning!
@guillealv
7 ай бұрын
I find it is a joy using the Analyser Pro. I quite like the "clickyness" of the buttons... Dodging on top of a base exposure is really easy. Also being able to save different paper profiles (or different types of light bulb) is a great plus.
@AdrianBacon
Жыл бұрын
I use a regular plain vanilla timer and usually print with a constant black level. I've worked out the exposure differences (in log units, who needs f-stops?) of my paper's max black for each exposure grade using Ilford's MG filters, then from there, to make an actual print, I size and focus my print area (for 8x12, or 11x14 for example), then take the negative out and put a grade 3 filter in, then do a simple test strip to determine which time gives me the maximum black level on my paper. From there, if I want to change what grade I want to print at, I just take that number of seconds and multiply it by exposure change needed to get the same black level. Then I take a densitometer, and measure the density of the film base plus fog of the emulsion I'm going to print and add that to the exposure time so that my film base plus fog is right at max paper black. I have a printed out table of exposure times of my most common print sizes and film stocks so when I go to print, I don't really have to do any test strips, for a given print size and film emulsion, on my normal paper, I already have a start time that typically is within a 1/4 stop of exposure of correct. At most, it's maybe bump it a couple seconds one way or another if there is a variation in paper speed or something like that. It's basically very close to right on the money if not exactly on the money most of the time. For dodging and burning, for the type of work I do, that's not something I typically do as I rarely shoot outside of a studio, and have full control of the light, so I'm fairly standardized on a grade 2 print, and I just set up the lighting to produce what I want when it's printed. However, I have printed a fair number of negatives that were shot natural light, and for those, I typically don't do any dodging, but instead print at the contrast that gives me the shadow details and middle grey that I want (with the max paper black, normally this is a grade 3 or 4), then I put the 00 filter in and burn in the highlights to taste, but I only go to that trouble if a standard print doesn't look good. I normally measure the negative density range, then print at a grade that fits that on the 2.1 log density of the paper and look at it and if it has stuff I'm unhappy about, then I'll do the max contrast exposure and burn in the highlights.
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
It's so fascinating how everyone has their own unique workflow - thank you for sharing yours!
@TaiChiBeMe
5 ай бұрын
Actually, there is an ideal F stop to use when printing in the darkroom. Two stops down from the largest F stop produces the sharpest image when printing. Using a larger opening or smaller opening reduces the sharpness. So it makes sense to use the time (with a glass carrier for the negative) to adjust the exposure while keeping the F stop fixed at 1.5 to 2.5 smaller than maximum.
@michelhv
Жыл бұрын
I use a GraLab 450 with a handmade 1/4 stop table and it works pretty good. I got knobs to turn, though I don’t have an easy test strip sequence. But I just do 2-3 small strips held by magnet at various exposure times.
@hackaninstant
Жыл бұрын
This is a nice timer. Love the knobs and switches! I switched to an fstop timer a couple of years ago when I found the fadu timer app which works with a wifi relay to control the enlarger/safelight. Built it for around $15. But, if I had 600 euros I'd jump for this one!
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
What a cool solution! Thank you for sharing!
@archivist17
Жыл бұрын
I have never seen such a device before. This saves a ton of effort. For the amateur photographer, it's probably not worth it, but i can see how it would massively improve the workflow in a professional darkroom. Cool.
@markus8538
Жыл бұрын
Der Heiland Splitgrade-Controller arbeitet auch mit F-Stops und hat als Erweiterung auch Drehknöpfe 👍
@user-tg1yj5pi7j
Жыл бұрын
Der Heiland Splitgrade das ist fantastisch !
@Karreth
Жыл бұрын
My enlarger came with a Durst DES 100AT timer, and I've been pretty happy with it. It's set up for F-stop printing, but adjusting the timing is all manual based on a simple potentiometer. It's only really suitable for certain Durst systems, but it works well for me.
@davidventura1424
Жыл бұрын
I use FStop timer app on my phone…. I get where I want to be then use f-Stop timer when burning… also when I make a test print I go backwards from 25 seconds at 3 sec increments… starting at o-3 seconds and up is never a time I use anyways
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
Which app are you using? I saw one on digitaltruth
@davidventura1424
Жыл бұрын
Yes that’s the one… I find it really helpful when printing. I don’t know how much I’d get used to another timer. I’m so used to mine. With the buttons!!!
@archivist17
Жыл бұрын
Footswitches transform everything!
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
YES
@13ahab
6 ай бұрын
I use Gene Nocon's original timer with a foot switch. It makes printing so much better. Keep up the good work.
@jimbrink3375
Жыл бұрын
Great video, thanks. You can get a CY IEC Male C14 to 90 Degree Down Right Angled IEC Female C13 Power Extension Adapter to route the power cord to the top in parallel with the other cords.
@zacharyrivera5418
Жыл бұрын
I love my GraLab 450 Timer, used in acceptable condoition can run you about 80-120 US, even the 451 can run you 150-200.
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
in Europe we truly have a very sad choice of timers :(
@zacharyrivera5418
Жыл бұрын
@@linabessonova if you wanted one imported to you I’d be more than glad to ship one to a PO Box
@joseerazevedo
Жыл бұрын
Agree that buttons like these are MUCH better than the pressing ones. More direct and you can do it with your eyes closed. On/off switch and power cable are on the wrong place, sure. Don't know why they're not on the back, near the outputs. I'd love to have one but the price is too high for me - not to mention import taxes, which almost double the price. Also, I'm not a pro so such investment is not worth. So, I'll keep doing my basic calculations with my beloved Gralab 300. My f/stops might be not that precise but the results are fine for me :) Thanks for the video! My best!
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
It's definitely not a device for everyone, and like I said, even having a timer at all is not necessary. But yeah, it's definitely a nice addition to the darkroom. And I told Lukas about the power cable, and maybe he's gonna consider changing the location.
@stefanopassiglia
3 ай бұрын
Do you find that the set of available step sizes (1/12-1/6-1/3/1/2) is limiting? I'd imagine that between 1/3 and 1/6 there's too much difference. Say on a 30 seconds exposure, it's 4.8 seconds or 10 seconds. Just wondering.
@chrisloomis1489
Жыл бұрын
This is a good review , very informative and shows the old alternatives , as a comparison ... Thanks Lina. 🤔 ☺
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
Thank you for watching!
@michaelnorthrup8470
Жыл бұрын
I use a Metrolux timer and it fits my needs.
@erchata
Жыл бұрын
si no activas el traductor dificil es seguir el video, lo siento no se ingles.
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
sorry, I uploaded the subtitles, but KZitem glitched and deleted them. All good now!
@Max-nv4fb
5 ай бұрын
you should try a RH stopclock if you want to get in to f stop printing... This one looks to me that it misses a lot of functionality, like programming burning times in fstops, programming splitgrade prints.. Besides the this timer is around 700 euro for 500 euro you can buy RH design... Seems like you get way more bang for your buck with the OG fstop clock from RH
@martin-f5482
Жыл бұрын
great video, many thanks for making it. I think if you ever used f-stop timing you'll never go back. It's much more accurate and usable for darkroom printing. Gene Nocon was right when he developed this method and since I'm doing this I'm often more satisfied with prints. Well I use a f-stop app and Wifi switch which is not half of being sexy but it was cheaper :-) Using opal bulbs it's easy an accurate, but on my De Vere with halogen bulbs and a mechanical shutter it's useless using 0.5 seconds. But anyway I get my values which I have to use and adjust them on the old De Vere timer. One thing I also have to mention is, using multiple intervals switching light on and off is not the same as using the complete time, eventually you have to recalculate exposure time. And of course fiber based paper has some dry down effects you also have to regard.
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
app and wifi switch! Quite advanced of a technology :)
@martin-f5482
Жыл бұрын
@@linabessonova yes it is not that easy, but the APP is fantastic, you also can use it without a relay just for getting values, fadu timer is the name of the app
@MrJmBecker
Жыл бұрын
Look at Durst TIM 1000. It is a logarithmic timer.
@alfredozappetelli1473
Жыл бұрын
Hello Lina, many thanks. I appreciated the F-Stop by "The way beyond monochrome". Now it's possible by Intrepid Enlarger after their new firmware update. Beautiful shirt 🙂
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
That's where I read about the f stop method too. Interesting, I didn't know Intrepid did it too - thanks for the information!
@alfredozappetelli1473
Жыл бұрын
@@linabessonova yes, you should download the new firmware and update their control device, windows only, so It will change the timer e also the light intensity. Useful if you need more time for dodging e burning.
@baudad
6 ай бұрын
The RH designs timer does everything this timer does, and more for half the price.
@RogerHyam
Жыл бұрын
I have some masking tape with 1cm marks on my easel to get even width stripes. Also i hate buttons too. Analogue controls for analogue world!
@michaelbell6443
Жыл бұрын
I love that shirt. Where can I get one?
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
Thank you! In a couple of weeks we will start selling them :) I will announce and give the link on instagram!
@chris-non-voter
Жыл бұрын
I can't get my head around how f-stop printing works with multigrade paper without the ND filters. My Dicromatic head gives different exposure times for different filters/grade settings. The characteristic curves for different grades demonstrates this.
@mrSmith-lc7hk
Жыл бұрын
Привет Лина! Было бы интересно, если бы вы провели экскурсию по вашему dark room. Рассказали какими камерами пользуетесь и почему, какую пленку используете и почему.
@narcisohernandez349
Жыл бұрын
I have been using the F Stop Printing Method since March 1993 Gene Nocon introduces It in Cámara Darkroom magazine .
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
He is just very convincing :) :)
@erchata
Жыл бұрын
muchas gracias por activar el traductor , ahora si me gusta por cierto me sabria mal ya que estoy suscrito a tu canal que me encanta un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
Hi! Sorry, the subtitles didn't load because of a KZitem glitch! Barcelona is one of my favorite cities ever. You're so lucky to live there!
@szabodaniel9447
Жыл бұрын
Cut the paper into small pieces, start with one time setting, then double and double, of course with new pieces of paper. Develop each. Use a calculator app to calculate 1/3 stops. Use pieces of paper for different areas.
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
I know people doing it this way, but I never had the patience for individually cut test strips!
@jonjanson8021
Жыл бұрын
I use an RH designs Analyser Pro. Excellent machine!
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
yes, it's super well thought-through, but I wouldn't say it's for a beginner. I've been considering it since a while
@bngr_bngr
Жыл бұрын
The power connection should be on the bottom of the timer.
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
hmm top would be optimal, because all the plugs are usually behind the enlarger. The side is maybe not optimal :(
@andrewfeld7177
Жыл бұрын
Hi. I know this Vlogger is located in Italy. Does anyone know of any good darkrooms open to the public in Italy?
@faraz2498
8 ай бұрын
Why do all these timers look like something out of the 1970s? I built a timer that is fully programmable with as many dodge or burn stages as I want, does test strips in any stop step size, switches grades and can change brightness on an LED head, controls the flasher and more, looks modern too. I'm not an electronics engineer, but it wasn't that hard.
@astore3757
11 ай бұрын
Too much expensive. I prefer the old method f/stops so.. 5/10/20/40 seconds stripes at the first test. If I can see a good time exposure I'll go on refine the exposure in 2 seconds steps stripes. 500 euros is a crazy price for a timer.
@comselha
Жыл бұрын
Durst Protim is another really nice vintage timer. Not F-Stop
@linabessonova
Жыл бұрын
I'm such a fan of everything Durst. I have five of their enlargers too.
@tonycheng128
Жыл бұрын
Excellent machine, but I can't justified paying €600 for a timer. Sorry Filmomat 😅
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