Rahat Sarfraz (myself) found this platform to train textilians specially New comers for success in their field.
I saw many hurdles in my textile life for gaining knowledge.
So enjoy learning and if anyone found any mistakes in my videos about testing please let me know for my correction.
My channel link.
/ @testextv
Testing details are below.
Purpose
To assess the suitability of rigid woven fabrics for seaming.
Definition
Fabric slippage, in the context of this method, is defined as the load required to produce a specified amount of seam opening in a given direction.
Direction of Test
Warp over weft slippage is defined as movement in the weft direction of the fabric, such that warp yarns move over stationary weft yarns.
Weft over warp slippage is defined as movement in the warp direction of
the fabric, such that weft yarns move over stationary warp yarns.
The test should be carried out in the direction that the yarns in the fabric
most easily move.
Method I is used for fabrics intended for light sewing end uses. Method II
is used for fabrics intended for tailoring and certain Home Furnishings end uses.
Apparatus
1. A constant rate of traverse tensile testing instrument that meets the following requirements (see Equipment Index Ref.13U, 16A, 18A, 18B and 24D).
(a) Load cell with 20kg capacity.
(b) 100mm per minute constant rate of traverse.
(c) Pneumatically operated top and bottom sample jaws each with a pair of rubber jaw faces that give an area of contact when closed together of
25mm x 25mm.
(d) Initial separation between the top and bottom jaw faces of 75mm.
2. Power driven, single- needle, lockstitch sewing machine capable of
producing stitch type 301 (see Note 1).
3. Metric size 80 normal point needle.
4. Coats (UK) Ltd, white Polyester sewing thread with one of the
following references:
(a) Epic 80 (see Equipment Index Ref. 13BH,23AH)
(b) Polyfil 75, Ref: 3155075 (see Equipment Index Ref. 5A, 23AH, 13BH)
(c) Epic/Polyfil 75 (see Equipment Index Ref. 5A)
(d) Epic/ Polyfil Tex 40 (see Equipment Index Ref. 5A)
(e) Epic 75 (see Equipment Index Ref. 5A)
(f) Epic Tex 40 (see Equipment Index Ref. 5A)
(g) Coats Epic 80
Test specimen preparation
1. For Warp over Weft Slippage
Prepare a specimen 350mm in the warp and 400mm in the weft.
2. For Weft over Warp Slippage
Prepare a specimen 350mm in the weft and 400mm in the warp.
Draw a fine line (fold line) on the reverse side of the specimen 120mm
from the frayed edge parallel to the 350mm side.
Fold the specimen along the line so that the face of the fabric is on the
inside.
Using a spare piece of the fabric folded in the same direction as the specimen to be tested adjust the lockstitch machine to give 11 stitches per 20mm.
On the folded specimen make a lockstitch seam of 11 stitches per 20mm parallel to and at a distance from the fold of 20mm.
On the fabric designs that include a variation in weave, always sew the
seam in the fabric so that slippage occurs in the weakest area. Carry out
more than one set of tests if an assessment in varying areas of the fabric
is required.
Use a set square to cut four specimens at right angles to the seamline by placing the set square along the seamline and marking a line at 90º to
this.
Each specimen should be 75mm wide.
Cut away the fold of each piece parallel to and at a distance from the seam of 5mm (Method I) or 12mm (Method II).
Cut each piece in half parallel to the seam. In this way two test specimens will be produced of equal length, one containing the seam and the other
without. Keep these specimens together in pairs.
Testing
1.Set up testing equipment in the conditioned atmosphere as described
under ‘Apparatus’.
2. Clamp the unseamed test specimen in the jaws so that it is mounted
centrally and squarely with its length in the vertical direction and
produce a load extension curve on the chart or computer monitor.
3. Clamp the seamed test specimen in the jaws in the same way as
above, ensuring the seam is midway between and parallel to the jaw and
produce another load-extension curve from the same zero point on
the chart or computer monitor.
Негізгі бет Fabric Slippage (Rigid Wovens) | Marks & Spancer | M&S P12 | Textile Testing
Пікірлер: 1