#Delco3wirealternator #Ford 2000
The original dash assembly, all original wiring including the Lucas 12 volt generator and charging system components are removed and replaced with a Delco 3 wire alternator, new wiring and a hand made dashpod containing 3 standard guages. The original equipment provided no output from the generator and none of the guages worked on the dash assembly nor did the tachometer. At least the bright red 'GEN' light worked....too good, because it never shut off !!
These is a detailed view of adding an extension to the existing generator bracket to make it compatible for the mounting of the Delco in perfect alignment. There's even a few seconds of a small and old Clausing horizontal mill creating slots in the modified bracket to allow adjustment for pulley alignment.
I started recording the tedious process of pulling new wires and wire loom and making all the connections then thought better of all that slow moving work. I just plain decided to not record it, but at least I followed the wiring diagram that was presented a few weeks ago for this very process.
Now the part comes up about figuring rpm's of the alternator as connected to the belt off the crankshaft. The reason that's kinda important is because there is a minimum rpm requirement for an alternator to begin producing output AFTER it receives 12v dc input on terminal #1. Never a problem on automobiles where these Delco's are designed to be used but on these old tractors it IS a potential issue. There's a major rpm difference during normal operation between automobiles and old tractors. Sometimes the minimum rpm required means the tractor has to be revved up pretty high just to initiate output whereas an automobile achieves that engine speed pretty much at an idle. This particular one is going to require 1800 rpm or in that vicinity. So measure the crankshaft pulley and use the round figure of 1,000 rpm to start out with. Multilpy the diameter of the crankshaft pully by 1,000 then divide that number by the diameter of the pulley on the alternator. THAT number will be the rpm of the alternator at 1,000 engine rpms. So if you can find the minimum rpm required in the 'shipped with' information of the alternator, you can now find out how high you will have to rev the engine to get it to function.
There IS a simpler solution. There is an internal device known as a 'low rpm exciter' in the special alternators you can buy at tractor parts houses that are built specifically for antique tractors and their much lower operational rpm. Otherwise they are the same alternators you buy for much less money 'over the counter' at your local auto parts store...its just that you may find it easier to buy the more expensive product to eliminate the potential problem of not getting it to produce output as easy.
This is not a how to video at all. I'm just showing you what it is that I do to make my old tractors work the way I want them to work. Do not do what I do and expect perfect results because your situation and machine may be entirely different than mine. I would venture to suggest that you may be able to find more specific and reliable information on sites dedicated specifically to auto-electrics or professional tractor repair.
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