Thanks for all the micro details on soldering techniques. Exactly what we software developers need. 😅
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
LOL - My pleasure. It's great to hear the "Li'things" are appreciated too.
@chadbeardall3660
9 ай бұрын
Best part is this guy is actually good at soldering unlike half the youtubers I see. I used to solder professionally, and his joints all look like good ones, and he solders a lot like me! Although doing through hole soldering on the D1 would have been stronger. (Just twist the wires together before soldering them in.)
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
@@chadbeardall3660 Thanks man, I really appreciate the compliment(s) and feedback 👍
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
😎How does this tutorial look? - I've started using a new camera. Lemme know what you think 🙏
@Sonnell
10 ай бұрын
Nice, though there was something about the black levels sometimes.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
@@SonnellThanks, I'll take a look at my colour profile(s) and levels. 👍
@mixmashandtinker3266
10 ай бұрын
A bit to fast talking. Aside from that, a very good video!
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
@@mixmashandtinker3266 Yeah.... not the first time I've had that comment LOL I do get a li' too excited. 👍 Thanks for taking the time to post feedback thou.
@bteixeira2013
10 ай бұрын
Great video, keep on! Thanks for the tips.
@Mr_ToR
8 ай бұрын
The eCO2 sensors like the CCS811 you used for CO2 are not really measuring CO2 at all. They only measure chemical stuff Total Volatile Organic Compound (TVOC) and it guesses that some of it shoud be CO2. it is called equivalent carbon dioxide reading (eCO2) and they are borderline scam sensors. You should use the factory calibrated Senseair S8 for real CO2 measuring. they are 20usd. Also, the uncalibrated particulate sensor in the ikea device is really bad. You should use something like the PMS5003 which has integrated fan and is factory calibrated similar to SenseAir S8. The only good thing about the IKEA VINDRIKTNING is the case and the fan. In addition, you definitely need a fan for the bms280 to work properly and it is not easy to calibrate it to a fan. I always got wrong biased readings with the bms280. I don't think your studio is really 14C is it really that cold? I use the HTU21D for the temperature and humidity. They are not as accurate as the bms280 but at least I can get them to work without hassle and they are cheap.
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Thanks... As I've said in other comments: I've had these sensors for a while and wanted to use them in something I thought ppl would like to make too. This by no means a "lab" calibrated instrument. It's purpose is to either start an air filter, if PM's are high, and/or open a window, if CO2 is high. The "numbers" are simple a nice way to see trends.
@0xBerto
10 ай бұрын
I’m new to hardware (a software engineer) just found this channel and I’m digging it so far
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Cool, I'm kinda new to code LOL Anyway - Welcome to my li'channel, thanks for stopping by - I hope you find some use in it. 👋
@clairerovic
10 ай бұрын
Absolutely awesome as always. Thanks heaps 🥂
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Oh hey Claire 👋 Thank you for the kind words. I really appreciate the feedback.
@njakts
9 ай бұрын
I like how you hold everything in your hands, iron, wires, solder, and boards. Not like other diy'ers spending half of video drawing schematics, using 10 "helping hands" board clamps, flux and other stuff. You are straight to business.
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
Thank you, it's nice to have my technique(s) appreciated. I try to make my tutorials as useful as possible, so yeah... no "faffing about" with showing stuff you don't need. :)
@MarcinJuszkiewicz
4 ай бұрын
Light sensor data is on middle test point (LED_R_1 one, next to FAN-). So you do not need to solder wire directly to the sensor. Thanks for video - did Vindriktning with BMP280, AHT20 and ENS160 today.
@3ATIVE
4 ай бұрын
Ooo, that's handy - Thanks for info 👍 - Getting the screwdriver out and the iron heated now. 🤣
@Frank.nKansas
8 ай бұрын
thank you for great instructional video!!
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
No problem! I'm glad you liked it. Let me know if there's anything else you want to know!
@yarekm4270
9 ай бұрын
great tutorial, have you considered using bme680 instead of the bme280 and ccs-811?
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it. I wanted something that was cheap and easy to use... and what I had on hand. I will have a look at that 680 thou.
@JaxZMan
Ай бұрын
Hello! I've done the modification to the sensor, I can see it in home assistant but when I try to configure it I get this message: Can't connect to ESP. Please make sure your YAML file contains an 'api:' line. I have an api line but it's emplty.Do you know how can I fix this? Thanks! Update - after a restart of the sensor and home assistant I can't see the device anymore. It was visible on my router and had an ip address but now nothing. 2nd Update - It seems that after flashing everything worked but when I connected the Fan- wire the board enters in an error and the blue light stays on. With Fan -, or brown cable in your case, disconnected, everything works and right now I'm calibrating the Co2 sensor. I won't be able to see the fan going on/off but that is fine. I used an updated board d1 mini 4.0.1 but the chip is the same. Maybe that is why I had my problem. Thanks again and hope to see and "steal" more projects from you!
@3ATIVE
Ай бұрын
It's possible the Pin you're using on that V4 board is a "Strapping" Pin and is causing the D1 Mini to fail. I'm glad to hear you have the project working... You could try a different pin to get the fan status in HA. LOL - Please "Steal" more of my projects, that's why I share them.
@sygad1
10 ай бұрын
amazingly well timed, thanks for the very detailed instructions
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
You're very welcome! - "...well timed", do tell me how. 🙏
@sygad1
10 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVEi started watching and reading about 3d printers and the fumes they create, especially resin printers. I then started to wonder and bought an Ecowitt air sensor, it tied into my existing weather station and has good sensor visibility inside Home Assistant......all of this research has now led to me thinking about a full home MVHR system. Im looking to get more cost effective but reliable sensors dotted around the house to initially gather data, then to confirm the MVHR is working effectively.
@laborspy
9 ай бұрын
having never soldered before, nor done anything with ESPHome I took this project on over Christmas break. I did make the change to a sgp30 as I couldn't source yours in the timeframe needed. I didn't do the light sensor, but everything works perfectly 100%. Thanks for the how-to I appreciate a video that makes it feel approachable and not over my head instantly.
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
Thank you Jason. It's really nice to hear my tutorials are useful. I know some of my videos are a bit fast-paced. So, It's especially nice when new people find them easy to follow.
@onlytiramisu
8 ай бұрын
Hey @laborspy ! Looking to do the same, what adjustments did you need to do for the SGP30?
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
@@onlytiramisu Not much, ESPHome already supports it. esphome.io/components/sensor/sgp30.html
@onlytiramisu
8 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE Thanks, I actually set it up using a CCS881! Everything (fan, temp etc...) works apart from particle count, it gives an 'Unknown' value - my D1 is different from yours so I connected REST to Rx but it might not be D7.
@SuperDolphin22
2 ай бұрын
as you mentioned in the video, there is a problem with the brown wire connected (Fan- D4) to flash the D1-Mini. So I did this before, but the D1-Mini does not start at all when D4 is connected. Is this wire only needed to indicate the status of the fan. I have removed the relevant part from the code and simply left the wire out. Everything seems to work, except for the display whether the fan is running or not. I also had to adapt the code slightly because there were a few changes in the new ESP Home version, but that wasn't a problem. In any case, a very good project. 😀
@3ATIVE
2 ай бұрын
I only used D4 as it's also connected the D1 Mini's LED - I thought it would be nice to have an "on-device" indicator that the fan was running. Sure, another pin can be used to get that data in to HA. As for the code changes needed for ESPHome updates: I thought I got all of them. Please let me know what I missed. Thnx.
@overlord5066
5 ай бұрын
Any other sensors people have added into this? Looks quite simple to add more if theres anything else handy that could be! Maybe a PIR sensor or something for movement detection? Can we use the voltage from the light sensor to give an indication of how bright a room is compared to just light or dark aswell? Can imagine having one of these in the main room facing the front door, went you walk in, detects movement and knows it dark, and with location sensing that you've just gotten home, so turn on the lights
@3ATIVE
5 ай бұрын
Sure the I2C Bus can read over 100 devices LOL - _Just be careful of drawing too much power_ ⚡ I went with just "Light/Dark" on that tiny sensor as it's not a linear curve so, pretty useless as a "LUX Level".
@Rainer_Landes
4 ай бұрын
Awesome! My first project with microcontrollers. Took me a few hours to solder and configure. But it worked instantly as expected! Very well done project and instructions! One complication was, that I am not a left hander so the soldering iron always was on the wrong side of the picture 😂 The other was, that my microcontroller seems to have the chips on the other side of the board, so the cabling was also to be done on the opposite side. But the contact points are labelled so there was no problem to do everything "mirrored". I also noticed that the "CO2" sensor is no real CO2 sensor, but a T-VOC sensor. It only "estimates" eCO2 based on measured "volatile organic compounds". As a result, when I was preparing meal in the kitchen, the device suggested, that CO2 had risen from 400ppm to 1170ppm although all windows were fully open. This would be a ridiculous value for CO2 under these conditions. But I am sure that only the "organic compounds" had risen due to frying some potatoes (no, nothing got burned 🤣). The T-VOC value had risen from 0 to 335ppb. This seems reasonable. So, probably the T-VOC values are to be considered real, but the eCO2 values should be neglected. A real CO2 measurement probably would need a NDIR or PAS sensor. But they would not fit into the IKEA housing. So, as a summary: Well done project! Nice!
@3ATIVE
4 ай бұрын
It's always fantastic to hear my li'tutorials are working for peeps and everything worked first time - _Even if I do show everything 'Back-to-Front' LOL_ You're right, the Co² sensor used is a _'Virtual'_ level device. There's no claim to calibrated or scientific measurements... just an "indication" of air quality. So, should be _good enough_ monitor and take appropriate action - Opening a Window, Etc.
@mirko8669
10 ай бұрын
just returned from ikea with my air quality sensor,waiting from extra sensor...my home assistant say thank you! nice job!
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
LOL Oh that's wonderful to hear. Have fun and enjoy your upgrade. #StayTuned - I have more coming for this project.
@CooperDuper3000
10 ай бұрын
Great video. Banana for scale earned yourself a new subscriber here, noice!
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
LMAO. Thanks fella. I'm glad you liked the tutorial and got the joke. 💖
@partypiggaming9344
10 ай бұрын
One thing I found when using an IR remote in the same room as the IKEA sensor was that the light sensor is specifically an IR one, I wonder if you can use it as a IR repeater to control any automatons by firing into the sensor?
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Yeah, I noticed that too. Seems weird they didn't use a sensor with an IR Filter. As for getting that data in to HA.. maybe, I've attached to a GPIO pin so,.... :)
@MeanwhileInChina
Ай бұрын
This is awesome, however I'm running into issues with the particle sensor where it does not report any values (not to ESPHome nor Home Assistant). I have tried both the D7 and D2 pins but all I get is "Unknown" in HA and "NA" in ESPHome. I do not have any of the other sensors, only Brightness, Fan and PM25. Brightness and Fan are getting values without issue. Any suggestions?
@3ATIVE
Ай бұрын
Well I can't really offer much remotely. However, if you've replicated everything I show and the ESPHome code is the same... Then the only thing is the PMS Sensor not working. - I'm sorry to say, you'll need to replace it.
@MeanwhileInChina
Ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE Well, it seems that I'm an absolute moron and didn't check everything when connecting it back up... If you want to get data from a sensor, it helps if it is actually connected to the board... 🤦 thank you, some embarrassment later everything works. 😎
@miked3655
10 ай бұрын
Excellent tutorial! I had mine converted and on my Home Assistant in 20 mins! Thanks so much for the great work!
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Superb, did you put all the sensors in?
@digidudeuk
10 ай бұрын
In the video description, you list a BMP280 as the part used. Ordering and using this fails to see temp / humidity and pressure, and the code on line 74 has to be changed to bmp280, and lines 69 & 79-82 hashed out to allow it to work, but, without the humidity setting. It did my head in for a while, but i worked it out from looking around. a great tutorial, thank you
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Good catch, now corrected - thnx. 🙏 However, I do say it's a BME280, so the Amazon listing and ESPHome code are correct. 😊
@digidudeuk
10 ай бұрын
No worries. I copied the parts from the description into ali express, have ordered a few bme280 to replace the.bmp. Once again, great tutorial ( I left out the light sensor on my setup)
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
@@digidudeukOh that's cool. Thanks again for the feedback and I'm glad you liked it too.
@MatSmithLondon
10 ай бұрын
Damn, I really need to grow my fingernails to strip hookup wire like that...
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
LOL - It also helps to use the same silicon wire I do... Link in the description. ;)
@jangrewe
8 ай бұрын
Why not use a single BME680 instead of a BME280 and a CCS811? The BME680 is not only a lot cheaper and does everything on a single PCB, but the CCS811 is also EOL. If you want to have a real CO2 sensor, i can also recommend the SCD40. No, the CCS811 isn't a real CO2 sensor, it just gives you an approximate value, just like the BME680 does.
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Thanks... As I've said in other comments: I've had these sensors for a while and wanted to use them in something I thought ppl would like to make too. This by no means a "lab" calibrated instrument. It's purpose is to either start an air filter, if PM's are high, and/or open a window, if CO2 is high. The "numbers" are simple a nice way to see trends.
@4sayken
10 ай бұрын
Yeah first like 😂
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
AND, it looks like, first view too. Nice. 🥳
@HATipsByLarry
10 ай бұрын
Great video dave. I don't have one of these but now i wish i did 😀Hope you get to feeling better.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Thank you duder, glad you liked it. For what they are they're surprisingly cheap. Prolly one of my fav _"What Can I Put a D1 Mini in Next"_ videos.
@markstalter8360
10 ай бұрын
Good video! Looking to try this myself. Anyone have any suggestions as to where to purchase the additional sensor. Thank for your patience for the new to electronics person.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
If you want them quick, you can order from Amazon (I have links in the description) Either that, just Google to find them on your favourite Chinese seller's Website.
@hrgagan9192
7 ай бұрын
Thank you, impressive soldering skills, I am going to get one now and try and set something similar. Thanks for sharing again cheers
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
Hey everyone, Bluesaph is here!!! 🥳 LOL, Thnx - I've been soldering for a... (cough-cough) few years ! Have fun with your build. If you have any questions or need anything, feel free to hulla at me.
@Raptylos
8 ай бұрын
Wow - what a discovery your channel is! I love that stuff. Weller for the win, subscribed instantaneous.
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Oh yes, WELLER is King. Oh Hail to the Iron. LMAO Glad you liked my content and thank you for the support - where have you been for the passed few years! 💖
@surgehawk3
9 ай бұрын
Just ordered 4 ikea sensors and a bunch of D1 minis to start building. Going to be building this and adding one more sensor to it as well, mmwave.
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
Cool, I hope you have fun and all goes well.
@Daniel-vg7yl
10 ай бұрын
Flashing Blue LEDs means that "technology" is happening.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
LOL you know it.
@ittraining2746
10 ай бұрын
Excellent project. Thanks.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Thank you, I hope you find it use/helpful. 🙏
@ftrueck
10 ай бұрын
I am flashing the D1_mini before I start soldering. Makes things so much easier. I also use 30AWG wire for the additional sensors as they do not need a lot of power and so the thin wires are way easier to place in the case. Lastly I use the MH-Z19E for CO2 as I prefer the NDIR sensors over the VOC ones. Makes the package a bit more expensive but I think it is worth the money. And by the way: The D1 mini fits perfectly between the USB plastic and the fan. There you do not need to cut the case.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Oh sure you're free to change or build on what I've shown here - This is my take on the project. I placed the D1 Mini at the very top as it will produce some heat and didn't want the BME affected by it. I also tried the MH-Z19 CO2 sensor but found it needed power-cycling every few days and I wasn't too happy with running two UARTs - So switched to the I2C instead.
@ftrueck
10 ай бұрын
@3ATIVE that's why I mounted the bme and the mhz-19 to the top chamber where the air intake happens and the d1 mini goes to the exhaust fan where the heat does not matter. So far my mhz ran stable for weeks without any problem. And you are right: your take on it is as valuable as any other. Great work!
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
@@ftrueckI get ya... My thinking was as that fan blows right out the back of the case, there wouldn't be much air removing heat the D1 Mini could make... leaving it free to "float up" LOL
@sierpus
10 ай бұрын
@@ftrueck I use similar sensors. Mh-z19 co2, separate light sensor, temp/humidity (although sensor is outside because temp inside is warmer than reality) and I put additional rgb led to show co2 level as additional diode. I also moved fan to stable 3V instead of 5V every X seconds. It is much quieter and fan on and off all the time is annoying. But… it doesn’t work well… for some reason, when I have all that connected, it can’t connect to the wifi. It’s enough to disconnect additional sensors and all works great. I can’t debug it myself, tried tons of solutions and can’t work it out… any ideas what could be wrong?
@ftrueck
10 ай бұрын
@sierpus I guess it could be a power issue. The 3.3V regulator on a d1 mini is not so strong. If there is too much load it can fail. The wifi can use up to 80mA (burst) when sending data. You could add another 3.3V regulator with sharing the ground only and supply the sensors that way.
@dan-nutu
10 ай бұрын
I'm kinda sorry for typing this, but quite a few times I cringed, fully expecting the solder iron tip to end up on the tip of those "sausage fingers"!
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
LOL Hey, if you don't end up with a few burns or scares, then you haven't really put the effort in! 🤣
@dan-nutu
10 ай бұрын
I'd gladly avoid it if possible! My soldering iron once managed to scar the lens of my glasses! (they were both on the desk, very small and cramped). I reckon it's fine if you can make fun of it. WRT calibration - if you record at least 24 hours of "clean" outside air you'll find out that the CO2 level goes up and down a bit, so the hour you "calibrate" it makes a difference. I noticed that during the cold months it varies more, so it's probably related to people using fossil fuels at home.
@ryanseddon
3 ай бұрын
Seems the CCS811 is no longer available and the ENS160 is now the go to for CO2? Do your instructions carry over with the new sensor?
@3ATIVE
3 ай бұрын
The CCS811 boards are still available and the ENS160 does look to be a similar array of sensors. Both use the i2c bus and the code looks the same too. - I can't see any issues with using this other board.
@endotherm
10 ай бұрын
Is it a CO₂ (carbon dioxide) sensor or a CO (carbon monoxide) sensor? The latter one would be more helpful, I don't see how an excess of CO₂ would make it uncomfortable or dangerous.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
It's a CO₂, as mentioned... I.E. what we breathe out. Carbon Monoxide, that from combustion, is a whole other (more expensive) sensor.
@perberg107
9 ай бұрын
Hi, tho more expensive it would be helpful! As for example a radone-sensor (Rn) would be. Do you know if that modification could work to? New subscriber!
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
@@perberg107 Well, there is that. 👍 However, this little project is a "better that nothing" addition to a home automation setup. - I've been using mine for a few weeks and it's been extremely helpful to get "call to action" notifications before I notice a drop in air quality.
@TheCowboysdude
6 ай бұрын
Well it's altogether and the code uploads but refuses to connect to my network..... not sure why but it's an interesting problem I hope to solve LOL Thank you for posting this!!
@3ATIVE
6 ай бұрын
That's a weird one. Not sure why. Things I'd check: * Unless you're using !secrets - Check Network SSID & Password * Make sure your router has enough capacity for the number of connected devices you have * Disconnect the D1 Mini and see it connects on its own
@TheCowboysdude
5 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE uhmmmmm me either. I left it alone all this time, plugged it in and it's working HAHAHHAHHA I think I have a faulty Ikea sensor as the 2.5µg shows as unknown on 1 but the other one I built it's working fine...... NOT a deal breaker!! Thank you for all your work this is exactly what I've been looking for.... You just keeping making these excellent videos please!
@3ATIVE
5 ай бұрын
@@TheCowboysdude That's great to hear.. Kind-of. Sorry to hear the other one is faulty. Have you tried contacting IKEA for a replacement? Obviously try and put it back to "normal" LOL Thank you for the kind words of encouragement - It really nice read and know that people appreciate my efforts. 🙏
@TheCowboysdude
5 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE I will try to put it back to normal. It's not reading correctly at all. LOL I did order 3 more because I wanted to put them in each bedroom. Excellent project and exactly what I wanted!!! Thank you!
@3ATIVE
5 ай бұрын
@@TheCowboysdude It's certainly a pain to get a faulty item and annoying with all the wasted time returning etc. Yes, monitoring many rooms. As part of my process, I order many units: 1 to Test and R&D with 1 to practise on 1 to film with So there's 2 running atm, with the first one still in "R&D Land" LOL
@RoofusKit
8 ай бұрын
My D1 mini works great powered by USB but when powered by the 5V from the Ikea sensor it does not connect to wifi.
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Sorry to hear that. Check your wiring and maybe change the D1 Mini?
@Meerhoning
10 ай бұрын
Tx connection should have a 5k/10k voltage divider as the signal is at 5V
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
ESP8266 GPIO pins are 5v tolerant, if the current is low
@Meerhoning
10 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE learned something new!
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
@@Meerhoning Excellent. I'm glad I was able to help, it's the main reason I make these videos/tutorials. 💖
@Meerhoning
10 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE and it's much appreciated!
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
@@Meerhoning and comments like that make it all worth-while. Thank you. 🙏
@MarcoPozzuolo
7 ай бұрын
Hi, I have a question and I need your help. I would like to add another condition to fan control. I would like to add a Switch Helper in Home Assistant that permit me to Enable or Disable the automation, and mantain the Windows detection that is just in place. I created a Helper on HA and imported ad Binary Sensor template in code, but after lot of try I cannot use this second variable in order to enable or disable the automation. My need is: Helper Switch ON, sensor control air purifier and all work as your code as is. Helper Switch is OFF, automation never fired, and I have to turn on air purifier manually. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Marco
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
Not a problem... I've added a new YAML to the GitHub page. Include this in your IKEA Air Quality Sensor code and will add another "Switch" for you. Use this to Enable/Disable sending speed control to the IKEA Air Filter.
@MarcoPozzuolo
7 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE ok great thanks I will give you a try today
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
@@MarcoPozzuolo I've also added a quick tutorial on how to add and use it... kzitem.info/news/bejne/uamlsKKHf6uldKw
@philharris9631
10 ай бұрын
I liked the graceful slip of the screwdriver under the box lid and flick to open it … classy move! :-)
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Thanks - I hate these types of boxes kinda lock the lid in place and you end up ripping it.
@chriscoveries
9 ай бұрын
mate is there any chance I can just pay you for one assembled
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
I mean that could be possible... but, the postage to Oz would be SOOO MUCH! I really couldn't subject you to it. Isn't there anyone local that could do it for you?
@neilos2085
6 ай бұрын
Hey. Im using a different D1 mini (WEMOS) im seeing this error after flashing.... SPI_FAST_FLASH_BOOT happen to know what its related to?
@3ATIVE
6 ай бұрын
All "D1 Minis" [should] be the same 'thing' - an ESP8266. I Googled that error and the only thing I could find was corrupted Flash memory. Some people found re-flashing it worked. However, most say the board is bad and needs replacing.
@neilos2085
6 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE The one here plugged in - images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5019271be4b0807297e8f404/1610124445529-IJ48PB7QEXTXGO58DIWG/Wemos+D32.png?format=2500w
@3ATIVE
6 ай бұрын
Ah, that's an ESP32 D1 Mini - My code won't work for that as it was written for the ESP8266.
@AndreasFuchs
8 ай бұрын
so if you live in downtown New Dehli your baseline is from the air outside and concidered as good ;-)
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
LOL
@r7boatguy
Ай бұрын
Nice project. I'm struggling to figure out the CCS181, it never seems to stabilize on a number for the baseline, even after letting it burn in for 48 hours. I'm going to pick a baseline number and run with it for now and wait for the ENS160 I just ordered.
@3ATIVE
Ай бұрын
Strange. Maybe it's not sitting in "Clean" Air for long-enough. As mentioned, in the video, I put mine outside for 30 minutes to get my "Baseline". - Where was yours sitting?
@r7boatguy
28 күн бұрын
@@3ATIVE On my window sill. In a quite street with no traffic
@mr.bianchirider8126
10 ай бұрын
Great project. I already have a full plate and you just made it fuller ! I’m an Arduino IDE with Blynk dude so it may take a little extra work.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Sorry about that. I hope me sharing the ESPHome Yaml and that only 1 or 2 lines of code need to be customised will help. Enjoy.
@Markokk888
8 ай бұрын
This garbage worked for a month and now it always shows red.. garbage out of the box..
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Is that before or after doing my conversion? If before, then just phone IKEA support... They sent me a replacement within days.
@JaxZMan
2 ай бұрын
Hello and thanks for the video! Did you use a simple usb to micro usb cable (from a smart phone) to connect and flash the D1 mini using esp home flasher? My laptop doesn't have a COM/serial port. Thanks in advance.
@3ATIVE
2 ай бұрын
Hi, glad you liked it. The "COM3" that shows in the video is the USB port the D1 Mini shows up on in Windows. So yes, it's just connected via a USB port on my computer using a USB-A to Micro USB cable. Note: It MUST by a Data-enabled cable... Most Phone Cables are just power (for charging)
@JaxZMan
2 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE Thank you for your reply! I'm currently waiting for some parts from aliexpress otherwise I would be soldering right now :) Have a nice day!
@Adrian-km6my
8 ай бұрын
I don’t understand a single bloody word. Hoped this Video is in english.
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
I have no bloody idea why - I *ONLY* speak English. Maybe try the subtitles. or check your equipment ?
@eichensedertcocertified6762
8 ай бұрын
would it be possible to drive the fan from the ESP32? An output pin. To change the 20sec/8sec interval.
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Sure, you can isolate the MOSFET from the original MCU and drive it with the D1 Mini. I didn't see the point myself, as the IKEA MCU was already doing it.
@eichensedertcocertified6762
8 ай бұрын
Thanks for the answer! Indoor air does not change that fast, a measurement every 5 minutes would be sufficient for me. Love your work and channel, especially the unpacking of delivery video, now my wife saw: I am not the only nuts @@3ATIVE
@the_smart_home_maker
8 ай бұрын
2:40 can you explain why you go to FAN- instead of FAN+?
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Yeah sure 2:01
@the_smart_home_maker
8 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE ok got it thank you 🙏
@ajnstajn100
10 ай бұрын
Love your wire stripping method my dude 🤣🤣
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
LOL Side-Cutters or Fingernail?
@DaggerStyle
3 ай бұрын
New to all this. Is there any conciderations I should be aware of if i intent to use this with homey through the community app ESPhome, instead of homeassistant?
@3ATIVE
3 ай бұрын
IDK about that - You'll have to ask the homey peeps
@DaggerStyle
2 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE Alright. Thanks for a good tutorial anyways. I am new to electronics and especially coding. There is quite alot of knowledge bias in both those fields, so I really appreciate when people make this stuff understandable.
@bipsendk
5 ай бұрын
Thanks for a great tutorial .... One could use an ESP32-C3 Super mini as well - to get a device a bit smaller than the Wemos D1 ..
@3ATIVE
5 ай бұрын
And thank you for your support. 🙏 Yes, an ESP32-C3 could be used - If you wanted the extra power. As for size, I think the D1 Mini fits in there quite nicely, don't you?
@antariuswolfonso8035
9 ай бұрын
Super video - thx I have done this over 1 year ago and installed an DHT11 Sensor for humidity and temperature- and it works very, very well. BUT - BUT the f.. cheap fans. After a few month they are getting loud, after a year they are getting much too loud. I am 3d printing so i have better fans... but i will not put these fans in, because the fans are more expensive then the whole vindriktning - so i unplug them. Its quiet now and they work also. I can test this every day when i am cooking :-)
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing
@George-vt5rf
10 ай бұрын
Great job with this video, well explained. My concern with temperature sensors and ESPs is that the wifi modules are heating a bit, so the temperature readings are not accurate. How is this installation doing regarding that? I the sensor fan helping?
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Thanks. I thought that too however, I've been running it against another sensor for a few days, that is averaged from many others in the same room. I only see a 1 to 2 degree of difference. Which I don't think any living thing would notice. :)
@MicheIIePucca
9 ай бұрын
I wondered this too.. I put mine in the basement where it is definitely cooler, and the temperature readying is 26C. Measuring the area around the monitor is just under 18C.. so its out quite a bit.
@George-vt5rf
9 ай бұрын
@@MicheIIePucca I stoped using temperature sensors DIY. I just purchased a bunch of zigbee temperature and humidity, and they are very reliable and eficient. They cost something like 4-5$ each. The same cost as a DIY one.
@MicheIIePucca
9 ай бұрын
@@George-vt5rf Nice. I haven't use zigbee yet.. I assume they need a hub or something as well as having the sensors? Any suggestions? Thankyou!
@MarcoPozzuolo
7 ай бұрын
Hi, got new sensor and now I got values. I put sensor on balcony leave for 30 minutes, but i get very stange values. After 30 minutes I got pretty same values around 400 and 430, that is reliable with outside Co2 values in my zone, but after hours I got values around 930-960 ans always differnt baseline. Any suggestion ? Marco
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
After 30 mins outside the baseline should have settled and become consistent. Any chance there was smoke or other pollutants happening? Maybe try again when there are less people about, I do mine late at night.
@MarcoPozzuolo
7 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE I leaved sensor on for 48+ hours as suggested in many forum. Today I put sensor outside for 30 minutes and set baseline. Today outside is rainy and very clean air. After setting baseline, i Take sensor indoor amd I got co2=1911 ppm, tvoc=415 ppb. I have other CO2 sensor and value is not real Any suggestion? Thanks
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
@@MarcoPozzuolo Sorry for the delay.... For some reason your last comment was "Held for Review" !!! 🤪 If I'm correct, the procedure is calibrate (outside) to get apply the "baseline", then wait 12-48hrs with it inside for it to settle and start getting a "correct" reading(s). One thing I do say about this project: It's not meant to be a "Scientific" sensor. It's only meant to be an indicator of VOC/CO² and enough to know or get notified if to open a window or not.
@TerryPullen
10 ай бұрын
You didn't mention it but I'm guessing that the banana is metric.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
LMAO, Best comment ever! Well, it's kinda both. It is 10 inches on the outside edge and 21cm in the inside curve. What??? No, I didn't just measure it - _I don't know what you're talking about_
@HermannThoene
4 ай бұрын
Would anybody know if I can use an S2 mini for this project, instead of the D1 mini? I have several S2 laying around... but the Pin names are different from the D1 mini, so I don't know how to map them...
@3ATIVE
4 ай бұрын
The code will be pretty much the same, apart from the setup and board type. So, if you search for the layout of a D1 Mini that'll also list the GPIO numbers. Then search for the same for your S2 Mini. Using both lists you'll be able to transpose.
@HermannThoene
4 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE Thanks for the fast reply. I think I found some PIN mappings which should get me started to try it out. I'll post here later how successful I'm with this...
@3ATIVE
4 ай бұрын
@@HermannThoene Cool, good luck and have fun. Also, check out my "About" links for the DISCORD server invite for better support and tips.
@MarcoPozzuolo
7 ай бұрын
Hi, I have an issue. ccs811is not seen on I2C bus, bme280 yes. I connected WAK pin to GND. I cannot understand what is missing. Any help would be appreciated
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
Check your wiring again. If aok, put the sensor on another D1 mini to check it's actually working - you may have a faulty one.
@MarcoPozzuolo
7 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE sensor was broken. Got another one, tomorrow I will do calibration and testing. Thanks
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
@@MarcoPozzuolo Sorry to hear that but, glad you found the issue. Have fun.
@glen4cindy
10 ай бұрын
I'm just starting to get my feet wet with home automation. I see you bypassed the screen saying you need to connect the device to the computer first in order use it with ESPHome. I haven't used ESPHome just because of this. The site itself says you have to do this once per device. How do you avoid it here?
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
_Welcome to the club. 👋_ I flash my devices the first time, via USB, using *ESPHome Flasher* - A Stand-alone Windows Program. All updates after that are OTA (Over the Air) via Wi-Fi. Watch again from 20:12
@qevinflynn
8 ай бұрын
Rly nice tutorial. Built it a few days ago. I camibrated the tvoc and co2 sensor on the balcony for like 30mins. But i am getting huge jumps in the measurments with ridiculous values sometimes. Any tips?
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Give it one more day and calibrate again. Some docs say these sensors need 24-48hrs to 'settle'.
@MihaiNestlé
10 ай бұрын
Non smart hack: is it possible to mod the IKEA sensor as a switch? Just to power on an separate fan if air quality is bad? Many thanks
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
#StayTuned - That will be the subject of my next tutorial, Controlling the IKEA Air Filter
@solstice666
9 ай бұрын
Instead of stacking the sensors, why not go for a BME680 which has the VOC sensor built in?
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
Have a look at the datasheet for that and tell me what it's missing
@PeterVdS76
7 ай бұрын
Another question concerning calibration. No matter the different Co2 value the baseline address/hex value seems to stay the same. [10:47:42][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=1080 ppm, tvoc=103 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA [10:47:52][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=1043 ppm, tvoc=97 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA [10:48:02][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=1017 ppm, tvoc=93 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA [10:48:12][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=1014 ppm, tvoc=93 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA [10:48:22][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=982 ppm, tvoc=88 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA [10:48:32][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=971 ppm, tvoc=86 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA [10:48:42][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=970 ppm, tvoc=86 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA Is this normal ? (value in the .yaml file is still "commented" for now I guess the "resolution" is not high enough to detect these small changes?
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
That's correct. The "Baseline" is the base from which the value is calculated from... I.E. "400 ppm". So once you tell it what "400 ppm" looks like (Hanging out the window for 30mins) the sensor knows what to work from.
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
FYI you need to add this HEX number to the YAML. It's used as a reference next time the sensor is started... I.E. Power Off & On.
@niklashogblom1880
8 ай бұрын
Possible to get a url for the additional sensors ?
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Check the description for Amazon link, everything is there.
@Jan-sn3tv
8 ай бұрын
nice tutorial thanks! why is it important to read out if fan is running or not? i think i will use the same components which u use but maybe add some own leds to the front. something where i can self decide which color is on...
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
No need, I had the option so I thought "Why Not !" LOL Feel free to customise as you see fit. 👍
@EdoDijkgraaf
9 ай бұрын
I placed an ESP8266 in a Vindriktning. It must have been almost two years ago. Your version is a very nice version of mine. Much better. In this case, more is better, right? I think I'll try to make one like yours too. Maybe with an ESP32 so that I can also use the Bluetooth functionality for ESPresence. Thank you for the inspiration.
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
Thank you, it's nice to hear it was use/help-full for you.😎
@barygol
9 ай бұрын
My concern is whether the air quality sensor is well calibrated and reliable. I find most air quality sensors are far from reliable. You need expensive sensors well calibrated for that
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
Well of course however, It's better to have some indication of "Bad Air" rather than none. I'd rather have "some" thing than "no" thing. :) No one is pretending these are calibrated or their output is in any way "scientific grade".
@WeeHee
10 ай бұрын
Is it the Ikea UPPÅTVIND air purifier, you're gonna show next?
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Kinda... I got the FÖRNUFTIG Air purifier
@rklauco
9 ай бұрын
I had some trouble with the fan on pin D4 due to the fact that it is IO2, used for flashing. I had problems to re-flash the firmware using USB. However, when put together, it worked. I decided to move it to other pin and change the YAML to avoid possible problems in future, worked even better then.
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
Me too, that's why I show in the video I simple un-soldered the Brown wire, on the first BIN file flash. After that it OTA's fine.
@ericilkwatson5557
8 ай бұрын
Thank you for the tutorial. I have a question. It looks like you connected CJMCU-811 to 5V. As far as I know, it should be 3.3V. Am I wrong?
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
You are welcome. Ideally yes, it should be 3V3. However, as the Temp/Humi/Pressure sensor was powered by 5V I decided to reduce wiring and run both on 5V. Both have been working AOK.
@ericilkwatson5557
8 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE Thank you for your reply! I cannot find CJMCU-811. Amazon in US does not have it. Do you have another device that I can use instead?
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
@@ericilkwatson5557 Sure they do, I found one straight away: amzn.to/3OmkUZ5 amzn.to/49ccgV7 amzn.to/4bi2eUu 😊
@ericilkwatson5557
8 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE Thank you!!!
@ericilkwatson5557
7 ай бұрын
Hello, I have another question. I have set up two devices successfully, but I have noticed that they are displaying a higher temperature than the actual temperature. One of them is approximately 11(F) higher, and the other one is about 15(F) higher than the actual temperature. Is there anything that I can do to fix this issue?
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
Hi there, Yes... the best thing to do is add a "Filter" to the sensor(s). See here: esphome.io/components/sensor/index.html#sensor-filters
@ericilkwatson5557
7 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE Thank you. I am new to ESPHome. This is my first project, but I will try to figure it out.
@PeterVdS76
7 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE I'm also having this problem now. Temp inside box about 5°C too high compared to room. But I measured with this temp gun thingy and it's really higher. So something of the D1mini or other does dissipate and creates some heat. Is that normal, is it not using very low current/power?
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
@@PeterVdS76 Yes there is some heat coming off the D1 mini - That's why I put it at the top. If you find your sensor is reading temps way too high, you can compensate by adding a "Filter" in the YAML code: See here: esphome.io/components/sensor/index.html#sensor-filters
@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842
10 ай бұрын
Nice one! But I wouldn't suggest using a CSS811 sensor for co2 measurement. It's sold as an eCO2 sensor, but what it really does is measure VOCs and then guestimate the amount of CO2 from that, which in my experience, it does extremely badly. Better get an MH-Z19B or an SCD40 or -41. Those are far more expensive, but you get something that actually works. Oh btw, if you can find a place on earth with 400ppm of CO2, you contact the met office or something. The current global average is at around 421, measured at Svalbard and Hawaii and similar places far away from cities, so 400 would be sensational.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
It amazes me how many people think these types of DIY setups and sensors are even slightly comparable to state-of-the-art or scientific measuring. No, this project is for Home Assistant and is ONLY meant to be taken at face value... * E.G. 2.5μg / CO2 / VOC too high? = Flash a Light / Fire an Alarm / Open a Window !!
@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842
10 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE I'm not comparing to scientific measurements, but if you use solid components, like the SCD41 and calibrate it, you'll get good data. Just keep in mind that an open window and fresh air won't give you 400ppm co2. Those days have gone…
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
@@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842 Again, cheap sensor(s) and no one really needs to know actual levels
@roystervi
10 ай бұрын
Very nice.. no PIR ? Also, can you use the same baseline # if yoy have 2 or more around the house or each require it own baseline? TIA
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Thank you. I hope you find it use / help full. 🙏 * Yes, No PIR, I just wanted "Enviro" sensing. * Indeed, every CO2 sensor will need its own calibration
@darioknoedel
8 ай бұрын
Would it be possible to add a LD2410? i think it is added via rx/tx too...
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Absolutely and yes those are serial devices too. While we are using the default Tx & Rx on the Di Mini, you can add a second serial port on two other pins.
@ytjaco
8 ай бұрын
Great tutorial :) What brand of cables do you use? Mine are really bad, soldering is pain in the…
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Thank you, I'm happy to hear you liked it. As for the wire, with all my tutorials, you'll find it and everything I use linked in the description - Look for the Amazon Link.
@akasha1337
10 ай бұрын
The sensor is pm100 not pm 2.5 like sndway sw-825 any way can use sensors with esp
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Looking at the Datasheet for the PM1006, the sensor used here. It clearly states: "2.5μm (sizes between 0.3μm to 10μm)"
@akasha1337
10 ай бұрын
Infrared LED Particle Sensor PM1006 Accuracy ±20μg/m³ or ±20% of reading thanks for info ikea also have a newer device i noticed with pm 2.5 laser sensor VINDSTYRKA
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
@@akasha1337Indeed. I saw that too, when researching this project. However, I deemed it too expensive and pointless for this particular application.
@kevinhertwig6104
10 ай бұрын
Is the light sensor working properly to measure the light level in the room like a BH1750? Not sure if I missed the sensor readings at the end where you showed the measurements in Home Assistant.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
No it's VERY basic. Please watch my video carefully, all your questions so far have been included. E.G. Light Sensor - 18:50
@pioupiou3935
9 ай бұрын
Is It a real CO2 sensor or a eCO2 sensor ?
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
All the info is here: amzn.to/47loXeO
@sjoervanderploeg4340
9 ай бұрын
@13:56 why not wire the WAK signal to a digital pin as well? This so you can control the on or off state on the module?
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
There was no need as the module doesn't require that much power and it would complicate the ESPHome un-necessarily .
@dudedavid522
8 ай бұрын
What the hell side of KZitem did I just trip me bollocks over? You guys are wild, I love it
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
LMAO - Welcome to our side. I hope you find some of my tutorials help/useful and maybe they'll inspire you to join us. 🤞
@hmoffatt
8 ай бұрын
What is the hookup wire you are using? It looks like you are stripping it without tools at times?
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Yes it's my favourite wire ever... and I can indeed strip it with my fingernails. lol As with all my tutorials, you'll find it and everything I use linked in the description - Look for the Amazon Link.
@dejanpetkovski8761
9 ай бұрын
I don,t understand about wifi and pass, do i need to put it while edit a firmware or i can put it on gui application on pc or phone?
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
In all my ESPHome code examples, I use "Secrets" - If you don't then you WILL have to replace the "!secret..." lines with your WiFi SSID and Password. However, I recommend you check out my other tutorial on how to use Secrets: kzitem.info/news/bejne/xo1q3H96nnqZao4
@TwanJaarsveld1
10 ай бұрын
i got one with a DHT11 sensor in it for over a year now, and its nowhere near accurate
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Oh yeah, the DHT11 were never that good. The DHT22's were slightly better, I have a few here myself. However, I'm kinda leaning over the I2C and SPI sensors now... they seem to be smaller and more accurate.
@MatSmithLondon
10 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE I bought up about 20 of those DHT22s, about 5 years ago. Half of them have died (humidity / corrosion) and the other half report silly temperatures. For example an outdoor temp in a covered / shadowy area has been between 5 degrees and -5 degrees this year already - in London - also within a walled garden - I know for a fact it's not that cold! I just don't trust those crappy DHT sensors at all - strong advice: get rid!
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
@@MatSmithLondonIndeed.
@TwanJaarsveld1
10 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE Thanks ill order some BMP280 then
@samiraslan9735
7 ай бұрын
I absolutely love this video, I will give it a try, do you think I can also add MM presence sensor and a PIR motion sensor? or is it too much for esp32?
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
Thnx, enjoy you build. 🥳 Adding those other sensors won't be a problem.
@samiraslan9735
7 ай бұрын
Somehow the Ikea sensor is not powering my esp!! I am using wemos_d1_mini32 :(((( any ideas?@@3ATIVE
@mm345-0
9 ай бұрын
Random comment, but please enable subtitles (at least auto-generated). While I don't have issues understanding, it's nice to have the subtitles as reference (again, even auto-generated).
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
Hmm... that's weird. I thought all my videos had (at least auto-generated) subtitles on. I've even taken the time edit some and get them translated too. Now all of of my videos have the subtitle button grey-ed out. I'll contact KZitem asap and find out what's happened. - Thanks for letting me know. 👋
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
GOOD NEWS! The Auto-Generated Subtitles are, once again, available. When I get a chance I'll go through them and make corrections as needed.
@carltonwbrooks
10 ай бұрын
Can other I2C sensors be added? Don't know what yet but I need to replace the old BRUH ones I built 3 years ago.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Of course, just ensure they all have different addresses, with a load no more than 400 pico farads.
@ChiMickE
9 ай бұрын
Very very nice!! Thank you for sharing this extensive tutorial, much appreciated!!
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
👍I'm glad you liked it @ChiMickE. Is there anything you'd like to see next?
@fredericoalmeida5473
8 ай бұрын
Just bumped and subscribed right away! Great job! Now a challenge :) Can you go for BME680 please and let's try to squeeze all we can from the combo?
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Well thank you for the compliment and the support - Both are appreciated 🙏 As for the "challenge" - Not much I can do on this video and not much point in making a new one. However, ESPHome supports the BME680 ( esphome.io/components/sensor/bme680.html ). So, feel free to upgrade your project. 👍
@fredericoalmeida5473
8 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE I have and did the same with a BME680. Thank you so much to teach me the calibration needs (was unaware of that) and also the usage of the light sensor. Really amazing stuff as i now have what i consider a great IAQ sensor with many more features using Bosch BSEC library and your great ideas. Keep the amazing work!
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
@@fredericoalmeida5473 Thank you (again) for the great feedback. I'm so glad you like my content - It really makes it all worth doing.
@Sparky_D
10 ай бұрын
This is brilliant, my first time watching one of your videos and you got a subscriber. 👍 Edit: I'm also a left handed Dave!
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
👋Oh hey-there fella. Welcome to my channel. Thank you so much for the feedback and support. YAY, Left-Handed Daves rule !!! 🥳 LOL
@RohanTheBT
5 ай бұрын
Great project, thank you. I’ve got everything working except the blue light doesn’t come on. The fan status is changing from on to off in esphome but no blue light on the D1 Mini. Help!!
@3ATIVE
5 ай бұрын
Thank you, I'm glad you have everything working - Except the D1 Mini's Blue LED. Which is strange, as that is on D4 the same pin the Fan sense is using. If the fan status is showing in HA and you're getting PMS readings... The only thing I can think of is the LED is faulty?
@RohanTheBT
5 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVEthank you for your reply. It’s a D1 Mini ESP32 from WROOM 32. I wonder if that blue led is on a different pin? The documentation I can find doesn’t mention it at all
@3ATIVE
5 ай бұрын
@@RohanTheBT Ah... that's a different animal altogether. I haven't had chance to play with those yet - I have some on order from China. In the meantime, I only really used the D4 LED as a gimmick. I mean it's not like you can see it most of the time anyway LOL - At least you know everything's working and HA is still getting the fan status. 🙏
@RohanTheBT
5 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVEok, thank you. I was quite keen to see a blue light every so often. Could I hook a standard blue led, with suitable dropping resistor across the two pads marked fan + and - that are in the middle of the IKEA board? I’ve checked there is 5v there when the fan is on
@3ATIVE
5 ай бұрын
@@RohanTheBT Indeed, you can never have enough Blue LEDs ! LOL Yes, the wire connected to the "D4" is active Low when the fan is running (It's the output from the IKEA's on-board MOSFET) - Adding your own shouldn't be an issue. - Lemme know how you get on. 👍
@kjm-ch7jc
10 ай бұрын
For a moment I thought Tommy Cooper was talking.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
"Just like that!" :)
@RubenKelevra
10 ай бұрын
11:45 I'm sorry, but this is bad practice. The wire connections are much stronger if you push the wire through the hole and solder it on the other side and remove the excess. I usually push all the wires through I wanna attach and bent them around the corner. This keeps them from slipping out again. Then I can solder them up in one go and cut the excess off afterward. Additional benefit: The wire's insulation ends right at the board, and there's very low chance that you melt the insulation with the soldering iron.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Excellent... Just as well I didn't make a "Soldering" tutorial then! LOL Additional: The Silicon wire I use doesn't melt like PVC coated ones do.
@RubenKelevra
10 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE yeah I didn't wanted to say "don't do it like that". It clearly works. It's just not optimal for beginners which will often pull to hard on the wires on installation ripping of the pads from the PCB. This kind of projects are what people start with:" Oh I got this, let's buy a soldering iron and make it smart" It's just so much more fun than watching someone explaining how to connect an LED to a breadboard. 😏
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
@RubenKelevra My tuts are not really for Noobs, they are clearly targeted at people with "some" experience/skill. Plus: * Experience Gained is Directly Proportional to Equipment Ruined. - I can't count how many pads have been pulled in my early years. Also, how else would you connect a wire to a solder/test pad - I hope you're not suggesting we drill holes in them !
@zeroy
10 ай бұрын
nice little hack! The only thing I would say is that the temp and humidity reading are going to be inaccurate due to the fan in use inside the IKEA unit, I'd image it will fluctuate quite a bit! A potential solution would be to have the temp/humidity sensor placed outside of the unit or insulated somewhat inside?
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Thanks. I thought that too however, I've been running it against another sensor for a few days, that is averaged from many others in the same room. I only see a 1 to 2 degree of difference. Which I don't think any living thing would notice. :)
@zeroy
10 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE nice so !!!
@kexogg
10 ай бұрын
Instead of soldering directly to light sensor, you can solider to pin 7 (right side, second from top pin) of U1 chip
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
I did look at that location and TBH it was a little too cramped the solder to.
@mpsadre132
10 ай бұрын
Thanks for this, GREAT video. You got yourselve a new subscriber.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Thank you for wonderful feedback AND the support - Both are really appreciated
@MathewSpearey
8 ай бұрын
That's a great idea, I hadn't thought to put a BME and co2 at the same time as the ESP.
@3ATIVE
8 ай бұрын
Thanks, glad you liked it. I've had these sensors for a while and wanted to use them in something I thought ppl would like to make too.
@henrik.norberg
9 ай бұрын
As an EE I absolutely approve of the instructions that is fool-proof (nothing really is but...). Not that I need them but I'm not the target either. Nice project. I had not even thought about using the IKEA Air Quality for my Home Assistant, but this is fantastic!
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
Thank you Henrik. 💖Nice to get a fellow EE's compliment - Much appreciated. If you do get to making this project, please check out Part 2 - There I give an IKEA Air Filter the same treatment. -- In addition, the next tutorial (Part 3) will be linking the two together, making a fully automatic "Clean Air" setup!!
@henrik.norberg
9 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE Yeah, I saw that one. But I use an Air Heat Pump that clean my air 24/7 so I'm no need. But I might build it anyway and keep in my work shop (electronics, 3D printing, laser cutter, cnc, paint booth). Btw, I also do work as a teacher and do lectures so you can take even more from my comment. 😏
@henrik.norberg
9 ай бұрын
@@3ATIVE btw, I love rebuilding stuff for things that it's not intended. You learn more than just building from scratch.
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
@@henrik.norberg OIC no worries... It was worth a plug! LOL WOW - You're a Teacher / lecturer as well - NICE! Then your message/compliment is even more valued. 💖
@3ATIVE
9 ай бұрын
@@henrik.norberg Indeed. Re-purposing, "Hacking" and generally stripping gadgets apart is the most fun hobby. And, as you say, the best way to learn. 👍
@christopherperry8693
10 ай бұрын
Very well presented. Even a total dork like myself, was able to follow the instructions and do the hack. Wish I'd found you earlier. Have now subscribed and am looking through your other vids. Thanks.
@3ATIVE
10 ай бұрын
Thank you @christopherperry8693 for the kind feedback, encouragement and support. - It is comments like yours that make it all worth-while and I hope my other tutorials are equally useful for you.
@wjn777
7 ай бұрын
Great video and great work, thanks for sharing.
@3ATIVE
7 ай бұрын
👍I'm glad you liked it @wjn777. Is there anything you'd like to see next?
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