Me with 5 dollars and a shitty and not dry Pla in the printer
@Mexinator127
2 күн бұрын
3:38am
@pietrobarili4906
3 жыл бұрын
We now want a “vacuum bagging a 3D printed mould” video! Very cool, thanks Easy Composites ❤️
@JeromeDemers
3 жыл бұрын
well it's not different then this tutorial kzitem.info/news/bejne/xKBonJdpj2dlhoY
@sdevane75
2 жыл бұрын
very interesting - you've taken the black-magic out of it!! thanks
@easycompositestv
2 жыл бұрын
Glad you enjoyed Stephen!
@FragBenitez
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video, again! Always happy to see a new upload from you guys
@sjoroverpirat
3 жыл бұрын
Hope you keep on doing a video a month! This is such great content. I've been watching for a long time, i can even remember when you had long hair.
@newdeal_99
Ай бұрын
I you paint the petg with epoxy resin it will be extremely smooth surface it fills in the layer lines beautifully
@easycompositestv
Ай бұрын
We show that in our other 3D printing video where we use the XCR to turn the print into a good pattern for taking a mould from. You can see how it looks here: kzitem.info/news/bejne/rKaAyquosnibaaA
@johnroyal4913
2 жыл бұрын
Vinyl car wrap is the next best step for a better finish. Then 3D print a Venturi vacuum for an air compressor if you have one.
@lancedandan4442
3 жыл бұрын
Ramy rc did not mention this procedure on their tutorial.
@t34admin
3 жыл бұрын
Can you do a video covering core materials... Like when to use a honeycomb vs a foam and the differences in layup and processing of each?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Yes, for sure. This is very much on our to-do list for video ideas. Stay subscribed, we’ll get to it soon enough 👍
@annakquinn7084
3 жыл бұрын
Plans for US store???? I neeeeed this company
@mohammedaamir4v972
3 жыл бұрын
can u make a carbon fibre mtb wheel
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Theoretically it would be possible but I'm not sure that any manufacturers have come to the conclusion that C/F would make a better material for MTB wheel rims so far.
@aaronokimoore
3 жыл бұрын
Another question on the gloss coat, was this done to give it extra strength? Seems like this would add a lot of weight to that part. Could you have finished that step with just a clear coat paint that you brought to a gloss finish?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
A coat or resin or a coat of paint would both add the same amount of weight (if they were applied at the same thickness, which they would be to achieve the same finish). Both paint or a coat of resin are some additional weight so if weight is more important than finish then you could forgo this step altogether, or vacuum bag the part!
@Huntsteven6
3 жыл бұрын
where do you get your carbon fibre? and where would I be able to get some good good quality on a low quantity level?
@rbutter9200
3 жыл бұрын
From these guys, that made this video. They are a supplier!
@rolfnilsen6385
3 жыл бұрын
Finally a messy old school wet layup with modern techniques like 3D printing. Great stuff in this one. I'll definately have to try the 3D printing route.
@motordude67
3 жыл бұрын
You are the best! Great educational videos, no nonsense and straight to the point. Keep up the good work!
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you John 👍
@ViralKiller
3 жыл бұрын
Instead of spending 5k on overrated car parts and spoilers, I think I will invest in this...I already have experience with 3d printers, just needed the carbon fiber bit..thank you
@nwpsilencer
3 жыл бұрын
A lot of that $5k comes from having to make the mould. Doing it your self you might save 50-60% of the cost, but it's also a lot more fun and rewarding
@tcroft
3 жыл бұрын
@Elliott Pitter wow you must be so cool
@SpaceNavy90
3 жыл бұрын
@Draven Luciano @Elliott Pitter scammers
@VoltageLP
3 жыл бұрын
Exactly, and you can print a variety of pocket vaginas if you get the right filament material
@nathanbarrett6483
3 жыл бұрын
@@VoltageLP you can always use the printer to make a silicon mold ;)
@MakingforMotorsport
3 жыл бұрын
Excellent video as always! Bringing 3D printing into this is a game changer, the mould production was always the hurdle for me, can’t wait to try this!
@Pushyhog
3 жыл бұрын
So glad I made this, make more, this is the majority of your customers.
@creedworks2797
3 жыл бұрын
What he said^
@jamestrotter7852
3 жыл бұрын
Have you got their sales data to back up this claim?
@Kurzawaa
3 жыл бұрын
@@jamestrotter7852 Mr fact checker over here
@hectorcastillo3823
3 жыл бұрын
4ț UK f.c.c f
@user-cg9fe4zq8p
3 жыл бұрын
Incredible, I recently bought a 3d printer to make simple brackets and interior pieces for my car, but now the possibility of making them fibreglass or even carbon fibre is amazing
@timothyhanson7828
3 жыл бұрын
Just wanted to say that this channel has been a fantastic resource for my University's UAV team. We used a similar process to produce our carbon fiber wings. Thank you so much for the great videos and keep up the great work!
@sebastiannoriega8072
7 ай бұрын
How many carbon fiber sheets did you use?
@jeffrysaul9296
3 жыл бұрын
Me 4am: "what is this handsome man doing with resin and why is it not a useless piece of wood with colored resin"
@GhostRyderFPV
3 жыл бұрын
It IS weird to watch this - where's the "pour", the LED lights, the planing of a slab of dead tree 40 times? And not one propane torch. Sheesh!
@thomasjohannesen1003
3 жыл бұрын
@@GhostRyderFPV 😂
@OMEGOOLIEBIRD
3 жыл бұрын
Great video! If you print with PLA, you don't have to worry about slip angles or even returns, as the mould can be warmed with a hair dryer and bent away from the part to release. It is a huge benefit.
@OMEGOOLIEBIRD
2 жыл бұрын
@@mattmurphy7030 yeah, they cost virtually nothing to print, so for single or low volume, they can be 'disposable'.. it does allow some benefits not possible any other way..
@veldhuisracing
Жыл бұрын
Would you recommend PLA over PETG? Or are there any disadvantages to using PLA?
@OMEGOOLIEBIRD
Жыл бұрын
@@veldhuisracing PLA is good because you can melt it away from the part at a fairly low temperature. But if you have a thick layup that will get hot during curing, the mould can distort, so PETG would be better.
@chevy4x466
8 ай бұрын
Thx for sharing, I want to get into this. I was wondering if my pla would be good
@GrindhousePerformance
3 жыл бұрын
This is EXACTLY what I was hoping to find, perfect for what I do. Thanks for your detail as always, extremely helpful.
@hannybassfabricacionydisen8366
3 жыл бұрын
Saludos y gracias por rasmitir▶️hanny bass🔊🤑fibra de carbono🤑
@carbonarne675
3 жыл бұрын
Amazing sound quality and great tutorial!
@mguarin912
3 жыл бұрын
By far one of the best instructional video channels on KZitem.
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much 🙏
@SonOfGOM
3 жыл бұрын
You didn't tell me to not use the PVA Release Agent in my hair. As such, I'm opening a Go-Fund-Me for the medical bills.
@sleepdeep305
3 жыл бұрын
Have you tried using gorilla glue? I found it works much better...
@ToyManFlyer1100
3 жыл бұрын
Well, make sure you start a "Haircare line" after your PVA/GG experience...😳😳😊😊👍
@streaky81
3 жыл бұрын
Acetone vapour smoothing ASA moulds might be a bit of a game-changer with this..
@csabalazar8937
3 жыл бұрын
hm you can smooth ASA w Acetone? Gonna try this.
@streaky81
3 жыл бұрын
@@csabalazar8937 and ABS but ABS sucks ;) Prusa did a breakdown on a poor-man's method here kzitem.info/news/bejne/r599l556fnlhnnY Then again with moulds PVB and IPA might be an easier/safer solution..
@eelcohoogendoorn8044
3 жыл бұрын
@@streaky81 Yeah just go with the PVB. Smooths fine and far better printability. Unless you are super confident in your ABS/ASA printing skills; but typically for a mold you are looking at sizable parts, so you because you got your benchy tuned in doesnt mean you are good.
@JohnBaleshiski
3 жыл бұрын
I've been looking for a method to increase the accuracy of my layups so that I can build an aircraft as perfectly as possible. Looks like my 3d printer is about to get very busy.
@michaelgoss
3 жыл бұрын
I have no idea how I got here, but now I want to make something with carbon fiber. Great video!
@macieksondej2918
3 жыл бұрын
When using PETG there is not point of using adhesive.. CYCLOHEXANONE works on PETG like Acetone on ABS.. it welds it!!
@calebverdught
3 жыл бұрын
Wow, 530 likes in 2 hours. You guys have the best content! That proves it. Awesome work as always!
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Caleb!
@flkp1657
3 жыл бұрын
Good evening, great video as always. I am very interested in the 3d files from the Drone Shell you did in the Last video. The finished Drone in the backround Looks amazing
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
I’m sure we could get those added to the project page on our website for download. It was just something Paul put together for the tutorial... I’ll have a word!
@janriggert
4 ай бұрын
Exactly the tutorial I needed! Thank you so much!
@easycompositestv
4 ай бұрын
Glad it helped!
@nachocortizo3321
3 жыл бұрын
Awesome video! Is there anything special when joining both halfs together? Thanks.
@sheldon...
3 жыл бұрын
Another excellent tutorial with two really small details that I feel are often missed and help to demystify working with resin: cleaning the shears (I assume you just throw the brushes as they're relatively cheap) and showing the drips after it had cured (i.e. not worrying that they're there)
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Brushes can sometimes be reused if you clean them in acetone before the resin gels. However it needs to be a good quality brush as some of the cheaper ones, the glue holding the bristles dissolves with acetone so it falls apart.
@dr1311
21 күн бұрын
Really good insightful video. I am learning a lot from you guys.
@mindle9155
3 жыл бұрын
I could tell this dude was British just by the use of "fibre" and "mould" in his title.
@thisistheburner5346
3 жыл бұрын
Pro tip: you can smooth out the 3D printed FDM mold with 3D printer UV resin.
@invincibearofficial
3 жыл бұрын
Are you talking about using resin-based 3d printers which typically have small print beds, or something else that you can apply to an SLA-printer part?
@herllraiser6662
3 жыл бұрын
He is talking about the resin from resin prints its 405 uv lamp is needed to allow it to go off, or the sun. If you want to use it a uv lamp make it go off in around 10 sec, dont apply thick layers as it will only allow so much to harden and skin over 1 mm is too much as printers of resin do layers of 0.05. So us a fine brush to paint on and then uv lamp then repeat. It does work, though i have found it dosent go off as well a printer, it leaves a weird surface that can be washed with rubbing alcohol. But it is very quick to do with a good 405 uv lamp. But wear anti uv glasses..
@invincibearofficial
3 жыл бұрын
@@herllraiser6662 Oh so use an SLA printer then some resin + UV lamp to fill in the ridges to smooth it out?
@herllraiser6662
3 жыл бұрын
@@invincibearofficial use a fdm printer as in the vid and then use the resin from a sil printer over the top of the fdm printed part to smooth the print lines out.. look on youtube for vids people doing it.. you then paint the sil resin on in thin layers and each time you use 405 uv lamp to get the sil resin to harden.
@aeoteroa818
3 жыл бұрын
pro tip use a heat gun and high grit sand paper and you can polish prints
@PrometejCFD
3 жыл бұрын
Great video as always! Are you planning, or have some references as how to treat aluminium molds for vacuum bagging, when the surface is porous, or how to apply and which release agents to use? Cheers
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
You would use the S120 as featured in a previous video.
@christianlengwenat8394
3 жыл бұрын
Great Video! I really like how understandable this guy can explain! Is there a difference in the strenght of the parts when i do NOT vacuum-cure them?
@CaseyMessick
2 жыл бұрын
I’d imagine vacuum will add strength between layers. Without the vacuum it will probably buckle or delaminate more easily.
@grand04gt
2 жыл бұрын
I really want to try it! Looks like fun.....only downside for me (besides cost obviously) would be stopping lol if i had the chance i would do carbon fiber absolutely everything lol
@iliya-malecki
3 жыл бұрын
3d printing engineer here, just wanted to say that i loved the video! And maybe also to point out that you (hypothetical "you", as a hobbyist, not as a full-blown composites professional) could pay a lot more attention to printing to make the mould almost perfectly smooth. With proper design and a good thick 0.8mm nozzle most of such shapes can be printed in a vase mode, say, at 0.04mm layer height, and then smoothed with a bit of dcm or elbow greace. Or sprayed with some coating to hide layer lines completely. Or dcm-smoothed and then coated. Or acetone-smoothed (if using abs) and then coated. Or... you know, the list of things that can make a perfect mould is kind of infinite
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comments and suggestions. In our other 3D printing tutorial we did demonstrate using an epoxy coating and the finishing to a near perfect finish; if you’re making more than one part using the mould then this is worth doing. For a one off, it’s often easier to do the finishing work on the part (because it’s in the positive shape).
@KarSlon1
5 ай бұрын
Why not printing the part itself, bypassing mold stage completely?..
@Flenderr
3 жыл бұрын
Super nice that you did a tutorial on this stuff. I have been experimenting A LOT with 3D printed parts and 3D printed moulds / mould masters up to 1.35m to make CF watersport structures. One thing I found on the way is that PU epoxy primer (sold at HP-text....), is a superb primer to stick something to PETG. You only need like 50gr to coat the surface on a meter long part, but after that you can laminate glass or CF to the 3D printed structure without issues. You can't pull it off anymore. Maybe Easy Composites has a similair product. :) Another thing is printing very low infill single shelled 3D printed PETG moulds, with the infill arranged as long channels (1 infill angle) and filling them up with e.g. epoxy foam.
@SharkWhite333
Жыл бұрын
May i ask if you have experience which coating i can use to pit permanently into the negative mold? I want to get rid of all little imperfections and layer lines but still want to be able to the the molded part out of the mold
@tgirard123
7 ай бұрын
That was super cool. I just wish i had a project...🙃
@Smokkedandslammed
3 жыл бұрын
This is why I bought a 3d printer! To make parts for my car!
@novasantosa9376
3 жыл бұрын
what is the maximum temperature that can be tolerated by carbon fiber mixed with epoxy resin
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
That depends on the type of epoxy. For a typical ambient temperature system that usually around 70-80C, but we have a high temp system called EL160 which has a max service temperature of 170C and some resin systems can go to around 200C. For these high temperature systems you would always need to oven cure the part before service.
@novasantosa9376
3 жыл бұрын
maybe in the next content could you please show me how to make it for high temperature
@schawn4925
3 жыл бұрын
If there was two light buttons I would’ve pushed it
@chandrahasan3225
3 жыл бұрын
I wish I could get your thing cheaper in India 🇮🇳
@papprobert2669
3 жыл бұрын
Uhh.. I have to buy a 3d printer immediately..
@denniss1618
3 жыл бұрын
What I would love to see is how you assembled these two parts. Did you glued them ?
@brightlight918
3 жыл бұрын
i want to make a supercar actually and i'm still doing A/L's so after that i gonna make a super car with all carbon fibre💫
@BisdremisKostas
3 жыл бұрын
Even if you have a vacuum pump sometimes you will hand lay up
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Yep, absolutely, lots of occasions where a simple hand layup is appropriate.
@TheWoeggil
3 жыл бұрын
This channel is gold!
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much 🙏
@SupraAU
3 жыл бұрын
Another COVID skill I have learnt and will not try
@Steve-el9nt
3 жыл бұрын
Very informative video and will be giving it a try, one thing how is the joining process done?
@donr62
3 жыл бұрын
Another professional and informative video. Keep it up guys. It’s a valuable service. 👍
@nikhilgovula2646
3 жыл бұрын
Why did I watch this? I don't even have a brush...
@stephengloor8451
3 жыл бұрын
Apparently you can’t ship dangerous goods to Australia. Do you have an affiliate here you can suggest?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Stephen, at the moment, no, we don’t I’m afraid. It is something we’re considering for some of our most popular products though.
@horsepowerrev7928
3 жыл бұрын
Hi buds..can you make tutorial making part carbon fiber using unsaturated resin? Is it possible to use kind of resin?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Do you mean polyester resin? If so, then yes, you can use polyester resin. Mechanically it’s not going to perform as well as an epoxy/carbon part but it’s certainly doable. We do know a few tricks for this from our early days involved in manufacturing parts, we’ll keep the idea in mind to do a video on this in the future.
@carlschroeder784
3 жыл бұрын
I cant wait to start doing this to save money on buying carbon car parts!
@Tarex_
3 жыл бұрын
You could print a plug in Vase mode as a quick option to use for pressure in the corners
@dallasgombash5381
3 жыл бұрын
Any ideas where to get in USA, online wants like $30+ a square yard?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
We can ship to the USA through our website.
@Shadowdarknessone
3 жыл бұрын
Is it possebil to laminate carbon fiber into different colours? I saw bonnets made with red and green carbon?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Some hybrid fabrics do exist in half colours.
@programroom689
3 жыл бұрын
How thick is the coating? Are You considering the thickness od coating in design od the mould?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Only about 0.5mm in this case so no need to change the design.
@YoutubeBobr
3 жыл бұрын
Лучше отполировать матрицу, тогда на последующие детали не надо обрабатывать. Матрицу лучше делать разборной и из алюминия. Сперва печатаешь матрицу на принтере, полируешь, отливаешь из алюминия и готовая матрица для производства, которая не требует последующей обработки.
@natecampbell42
3 жыл бұрын
I've been doing quiet a bit of this lately, almost always vacuum bagging. I've found that with pla and a .4mm nozzle that 3 perimeters (1.2mm wall for cura users) and 15% infill makes a mold that can withstand full vacuum. I've had this luck with both pva and mold release wax for getting parts of of the mold, with wax generally giving an easier release.
@GhostRyderFPV
3 жыл бұрын
Surprised by your result! I would have thought infill density would have had to be much higher, glad you saved me a few passes. I was also curious if the resin curing process, and the heat, would be high enough to deform PLA, so I picked up clear PETG to mold with, and see any voids. But now I can save that and use PLA instead, and save the stringing for another project. Thank you Nate, I'm looking forward to my first layup!
@natecampbell42
3 жыл бұрын
@@GhostRyderFPV Glad to hear its helpful info. I imagine that exotherm could still be an issue for warping the PLA if you pushed it too far but I've had great success with epoxy. I've also found that for one offs it's just as easy to sand the layer lines off the finished part opposed to trying to sand the female mold before laminating. If you're going to pop more then a few out of the mold it's probably worth the time to sand the mold. I haven't pushed any of the molds to failure but i have a few that I've made 4 or 5 parts out of that seem to be in fine shape.
@GhostRyderFPV
3 жыл бұрын
@@natecampbell42 _This advice is free?!_ Seriously, thank you. You've just taken the edge off the anxiety of trying this: Will the molds last, are they strong enough at 15% infill, layer line treatment on the molds. Really, thank you.
@natecampbell42
3 жыл бұрын
@@GhostRyderFPV No problem. Let us know your results
@bjarnec1569
Жыл бұрын
Hi, thank you both for your advices! I'm going to try this soon for the very first time. Any more tips and tricks?
@sjkba
6 ай бұрын
This is the first video I have seen on your channel. Your shop looks impeccable. Great content! I guess this will be my next youtube / hobby rabbit hole :D
@FranciscoCampins
3 жыл бұрын
I have seen that you have made the piece in two parts. How did you put together both parts?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
In this case a simple push button connector was used as it is a e-bike battery box. Other applications may need something different.
@nephurus4592
3 жыл бұрын
At what point does old school techniques get lost? You could simply wet sand the mold, spray a thin gloss coat, then a release agent. Did this 30 years ago. People reinventing the wheel. Realize composites and epoxies have been around over 50 years... Now imagine real world techniques from then, mixed with modern day technology. Here is the issue, you only have modern day.... Research Aerospace, Formula 1, and automotive industry.
@InfiniteP
3 жыл бұрын
Been in the composite/aerospace tech industry for the last decade, the old school techniques are not lost. The main evolution or change in process is mainly for ease of use and cost based. You have to take into account that composites are becoming more and more included into the manufacturing/high production industry which mainly needs volume to complete its goals, so the old school methods are still viable but take more skill, knowledge and resources which in return cost more.
@nephurus4592
3 жыл бұрын
@@InfiniteP You are correct. At the end of the day, still requires elbow grease and human skill to make the parts. Present day tries their best to exclude the human factor to make it more efficient, but they just end up paying humans less for more.
@tomdenholm4896
3 жыл бұрын
Silly question: It it conceivable to combine a 3D printed ABS mould with a pre-preg on a low-temperature cycle? I'm not sure if there's still chemical compatibility issues, but at least the cure temperatures seem like they would work.
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
We would not recommend it as you would be pushing the limits of the ABS and low temperature cure cycles can often compromise the pre-preg cosmetic finish. You would be better off using the 3D print as a pattern to then take a high temperature mould from as per this video: kzitem.info/news/bejne/rKaAyquosnibaaA
@tomdenholm4896
3 жыл бұрын
@@easycompositestv Appreciate the response, thanks!
@Aurich88
3 жыл бұрын
Would sandwiching the fiber between two molds be likely to reduce cavities?
@VacFink
3 жыл бұрын
It would be easier to vacuum bag and get better results. The complexity of the model would have to account for the layers and resin and you'd probably have to iterate to get it spot on. That's not to say you couldn't 3d print a pressing block and let it bond to the pullaway layer so you can press and put weights into corners or tricky parts, but IMO vacuum bagging is still faster if it can't have flaws. This method is a down and dirty approach that is fast and gets you to a single viable part quickly. Great if you want to test a design or just need one IMO and don't mind the extra time to refine. Check out Throttle Stop Garage if you want lots of examples of large and small part hand layup bagging.
@siriusbreak2212
Жыл бұрын
Seeing the prices of "carbon fiber" parts these days that aren't even real Carbon Fiber makes me wonder how much I could save in making them myself, lol. This is the 3rd video I've watched from this channel and I'm hooked! Those starter sets are quite affordable, so I may dive into one and make something simple to start. If I don't suck at it, who knows where one could go from there.
@fnitschke21
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this helpfull video. Perfect explanation. I have made my first carbon part last week in the same way.
@jonlucas1576
3 жыл бұрын
i do a lot of hand laid carbon fiber wings for drag cars . we spray clear gel coat first let it tack up 45 min then lay the carbon on the tacky surface the the resin, if we have a small air pocket we use a dremel to open it and put some clear gel coat in it. then we sand with 600/800 wet sand with 1000 the buff and wax. we make a beautiful part
@acintron3Dmfg
3 жыл бұрын
I was budgeting the trip for training in your facility, then covid hold everything. Soon this is over will be there, thanks for the great contents.
@streetsweeper2942
3 жыл бұрын
That makes two of us!!
@emilegijselinckx841
3 жыл бұрын
Is it also possible to use PLA as mould material with this lay up method ?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Yes, absolutely. Please read the full guide on our website for a little more info about different filaments.
@0FG0
3 жыл бұрын
Would you have any concerns hand laminating and vacuum bagging on a 3D printed mould, considering all the air between the infill in the mould? Would it bubble out though the epoxy?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
It depends on the mould itself. It should not come through the epoxy itself as that is long cured by that stage but it is possible the mould may break or be damaged.
@0FG0
3 жыл бұрын
@@easycompositestv first of all thanks for answering so fast, 3 month old video and you answer within a few hours, you guys are just awesome. Definitely ordering all materials for my project from you. I'm not sure I understand, the epoxy would not be cured when I pull the vacuum, would it? Or do you mean the PVA would provide the vacuum barrier? I was thinking if I should maybe perforate the mould on the outside (not on the surface I need of course), to let air out that way. I am not expecting more than one use of the mould, so as long as it maintains shape under vacuum once, I'm happy.
@gasser5001
3 жыл бұрын
What is mould and fibre. Is that like a sabre!!!??
@InfiniteP
3 жыл бұрын
No it is not spelled wrong, you can spell it both ways. It is mainly geographically based when it comes to spelling. Grammar is not subject to the same rules like units of measurements are globally, especially considering majority of the world uses metric and the US uses imperial. Same concept applies to the different way BRITISH and US spell certain words: flavour - flavor humour - humor labour - labor neighbour - neighbor
@carlfogarthy6508
Жыл бұрын
Excellent, straightforward, very informative! In my opinion this is one of the best channels on YT! Thanks
@TRU_Lunchy
3 жыл бұрын
I asked on a different video, but having just bought an XCR kit, could I add a decal before the final layer to keep it on permanently?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Yes you can, just ensure you use a good quality decal material as some cheaper materials, the glue will lift on the edge.
@TRU_Lunchy
3 жыл бұрын
@@easycompositestv So put the decal on after the initial flat, but before the 3 layers of clear? Or would you reccomend doing the 3 layers, sanding it well, adding the decal, then the final layer that gets polished? Appreciate your time.
@mameshibacarp
3 жыл бұрын
If you go wet layup method like this, which is suitable to choose glass fibre or carbon fibre?
@ModularIsl
3 жыл бұрын
Hello. How did you combine those two parts? You printed two molds and casted twice but the combination of both pieces is left out making the whole process kinda useless with no conclusion
@herllraiser6662
3 жыл бұрын
Jesus things have moved on from when i was using wet lay up carbon for helmet scoops back in the 90's. But same process, i used peal ply with plastic bags and wet sand haha got the results i need and sold loads....
@donaldhollingsworth3875
3 жыл бұрын
What is the best filament for a great surface finish? Something like a 63 surface finish you would get when machining a part?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
We are not 3D printing experts so would not be best to advise. However you can contact dynamism here: dynamism.com/3dp-cf
@donaldhollingsworth3875
3 жыл бұрын
@@easycompositestv Thank you for the information.
@nuchbutter
3 жыл бұрын
I use the Formlabs Form 3 with the Grey Pro resin. Very little post processing needed to get amazing finishes...
@user-vh6sk2hs3l
3 жыл бұрын
Alex lab
@constantinosschinas4503
3 жыл бұрын
as others commented, excellent, straight to the point videos, with great narration and pace. thanks for sharing.
@anglerfish61
3 жыл бұрын
hm, I have a 3d printer and I have been looking into using other materials.. I might have to try this now cause it does not look hard at all. Just meticuleus and thats fine
@80club45
3 жыл бұрын
Why not just print carbon fiber directly??
@danielmclellan7762
5 ай бұрын
Not as strong
@cianvaugh3411
3 жыл бұрын
Ive done. Something like thjs before it wors pretty well but i have been meeting ti try print with polypropylene to give a flexable self relesing mold but just need the time now 😅
@MrCurt500
3 жыл бұрын
Again, great content. Are you planning to do a video about 3d printed cores? Would be great, especially when you investigate in which material is the best for it and maybe also looking in solvable materials like hips. I'm currently using ABS but the bonding with epoxy, even with sand paper grinding, isn't really good.
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
We are looking at other videos with 3D printing and similar materials.
@alabrrmrbmmr
2 жыл бұрын
I can't express how much I appreciate your thorough instructions!
@easycompositestv
2 жыл бұрын
You’re very welcome James
@lucasvu
3 жыл бұрын
Very good video. Thanks
@SoarPilot
3 жыл бұрын
How do you clean tools like scissors from epoxy resin?
@AGodwin
3 жыл бұрын
Acetone on a rag right after use is how I do it. Never had issues.
@bomb_and_gouge
3 жыл бұрын
Is it possible to finish the 3d printed mould in a way that makes it easier to finish the part? Are there any no-no compounds for finishing the mould?
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
You could follow the previous video and coat the 3D print in XCR resin to get a much smoother mould then have less finishing to do on the completed part.
@bomb_and_gouge
3 жыл бұрын
@@easycompositestv Thank you, I'll go watch it.
@Thermikflieger007
3 жыл бұрын
3D Printed moulds are game changer for hobby parts or prototypes. Really need to try that. Although I need more light parts than glossy surface for model airplanes ;) Great Video, thanks!
@ALG1K
3 жыл бұрын
I invested in easy composites vacuum bagging set up and I have made every single panel on my car in full carbon 😎
@nickholmer175
3 жыл бұрын
Please consider doing a motorcycle fuel tank video or something similar. Thanks!
@hoss2200
3 жыл бұрын
Still in love with your product and the tutorial. Thanks a bunch
@easycompositestv
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Hoss!
@jibcot8541
13 күн бұрын
I always think of all the kids I see complaining about heavy prosthetic legs when custom carbon fibre work like this is pretty cheap and available nowadays.
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