A lot of people seem to be interested in my Holiday LEDs video lately. So in this video I’m going to go through some lessons I’ve learned both personally and thanks to folks who have commented and asked questions and provided answers.
Lessons:
OtA sketch - Thanks to Nicklaus Craig for showing me this was possible.
You can copy the new sketch from github:
github.com/Snipercaine/Holida...
Open the new sketch in the Ardiuno IDE. Add your personal information.
Connect your D1 Mini and upload the sketch
Disconnect the board from your PC, and power it up again from a different source
Restart the Arduino IDE, Under Ports you should now see a Network Port with the name you defined as the “SENSORNAME”
Select that port, and try to upload the sketch again to test it.
You can also just copy the OtA parts from my new sketch to your sketch if you’d rather.
Input_slider: In Home Assistant version 0.55 they changed Input_slider to Input_number. So if you try to use an old yaml, with a new version of Home Assistant, it won’t work. I’ve updated my partial.yaml on github, or you can change it in your config file yourself.
github.com/Snipercaine/Holida...
I ran into a problem with flickering. It wasn’t a voltage problem. I asked the nice folks on the FastLED Google+ group and got this solution from Will Cooke and Brian Lewis.
The Easy Way:
Before the "#include "FastLED.h" line in your sketch add:
#define FASTLED_INTERRUPT_RETRY_COUNT 0
Then in the Setup function include this:
WiFi.setSleepMode(WIFI_NONE_SLEEP);
The Harder Way:
Change the timeout settings in: clockless_esp8266.h
template int DATA_PIN, int T1, int T2, int T3, EOrder RGB_ORDER = RGB, int XTRA0 = 0, bool FLIP = false, int WAIT_TIME = 5
Change WAIT_TIME to 18.
You then don't need to use the FASTLED_INTERRUPT_RETRY_COUNT from the easy option. You do need to recompile everything in order for this change to take effect. An easy way to do this is change the board to, say, Arduino Pro Mini, and rebuild. It will fail, but that's OK. Then change the board setting back to your ESP8266 and build again. That will force it to rebuild the libraries.
Jumping a gap. Sometimes you have a long distance between roof lines and you want to span across it without just running lights. Singletracks and Whiskey found this solution. He used a shielded cable for the data line and was able to span 12’ without flickering or loss of data signal.
www.platt.com/platt-electric-...
5. Overload: Remember Ohm’s law. If your voltage is low, but your resistance stays the same then your current (amps) will be higher. If you run too much current through a wire (or a board) it’ll get hot. A little hot is okay, very hot is not. If your wire or your board or your power supply gets really hot then disconnect them and make some changes. Use bigger wire, less lights, or a bigger power supply (more amps). Don’t power you lights through the D1 mini board. It will fry.
6. Use voltage regulator for control board: If you use 12v or even 24v lights you could use a buck converter to drop the voltage from the power supply to 5v for your control board.
a.co/i4MhRCp
7. A few timer automations:
Turn them on with an effect when the sun goes down
Turn the lights off at 10pm
github.com/Snipercaine/Holida...
8. Not Smart, but Pretty controller:
Not everyone is ready to setup Home Assistant and write Arduino code to make custom effects. With those folks in mind I grabbed a couple simple controllers and tested them out. They work pretty well. I don’t know what their max current rating is, but they did get hot when I ran 10 strings of lights on them. So I’d recommend less than 10 strings.
a.co/3crJE6e
That’s it!
Go have some LED fun!
Негізгі бет Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль Holiday LEDs - What I wish I'd have known
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