I've been watching alum anodizing videos for about an hour now so like everyone else here I am an expert and more qualified than you. I friggin love that in this video you broke like all the "rules" every other video harps on, it seemed at times you were reading what to do next as the part is already in a timed bath. Yet... Your finished product looks 500x better than most vids I've watched 😂. I'm all for safety and such but kudos to you man 🤙
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
Just remember, safety third! This was the first time I did it, I have another video which I think is cooler, as I use super-cooled E85 as a refrigerant for my bath. Just go try it on your lower, if you mess it up, make a dilute lye bath and remove your anodizing and try again. It’s not like 80% lowers are that expensive to start with.
@Sigmatic850
10 ай бұрын
@@uzifouryoutwosayerstlich!!😊
@uzifouryoutwosay
10 ай бұрын
Wir mussen mit dem ersten beginnen!
@JeezUriah
Жыл бұрын
Keep doing anodizing. You can only keep improving the more often you practice.
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
Will do, this was my first run, I’ve done about 8 runs since then, and I learn each time. I have another video where I managed to make a part tan/gold colored, it turned out really well. In that setup I used super chilled ethanol to chill my bath.
@adamsgr2311
5 ай бұрын
So I just recently ran across your video here, and I'm quite impressed with the setup for this process. I'm getting ready to clean up and re-anodize the receiver for a Mossberg 88 12 ga. shotgun that the previous owner totally screwed up with a crappy home-made parkerization job. Least to say, is the receiver isn't the only thing getting blacked. But from what I saw from your voltage supply, I think I may change into using a 12V battery charger from Harbor Freight to see if I can get that thick black coating for the receiver. Hopefully I get a good shine on it, or else I'll have to do multiple iterations to get this right. Maybe I'll try it out on other aluminum parts first before the receiver...
@uzifouryoutwosay
5 ай бұрын
You will probably be able to get some kind of anodization growth on it, but that’ll depend on the size of the part. These DC power supply’s are on amazon for cheap, and It’ll allow you more control for a better result. I’ve since gotten into the business of anodizing firearms and components and I’ve probably done 100 anodization runs on a small scale. Also, it’s worth noting that your Racking (connection to the part) and the Cathode is important. You can’t overdo it on the racking piece (multiple connections, preferably with aluminum fasteners) and plenty of Cathode surface area (aluminum foil) try to do 3x times the surface area of the part. What’s more, it being cold as hell out right now you’ll be able to get a harder coating, which’ll be good, but that 12v power supply will have a hard time getting decent current density to the part. But listen, chances are you’ll get a decent result with the part so long as you’re not too particular. PS. For best results, make sure that part is stripped clean, IE down to bare metal, don’t blast it, but you can polish it or abrade the old anodizing away with aluminum oxide based sandpaper (most sandpaper) or blasting media. Then dunk it in your 15% sulfuric acid and 2% lye solution back and forth a couple times, rinse it in distilled water and get to coating. Because it’s all-ready been coated before, you’ll need to do your best to remove the old anodization in order to get a good coating grown on it.
@MediocrePotato4Life
Жыл бұрын
I had the feeling you needed to be at a buddy's wedding in about 20 minutes, but you really wanted to get this done before hand. Try playing this at 1.5 x if you want to have an anxiety attack.
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
I was documenting my first attempt at it after buying everything at a hardware store and amazon, I’d like to see your first attempt if you don’t mind.
@MediocrePotato4Life
Жыл бұрын
Yo, I think I got hacked BC I didn't write this comment
@MediocrePotato4Life
Жыл бұрын
nvm my dad wrote it while the computer was signed into my account
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
@@MediocrePotato4Life tell your Dad some guy on youtube says to “Make your own and show the internet the first time he does it.”
@BatushkaFan69
2 жыл бұрын
I like this video
@xjyrki
Жыл бұрын
What you did was a haphazard attempt at type II cosmetic anodizing, not type III. For type III the acid bath should be between -2 to 0 celsius, the current in the basic process is 24 amps per square foot and as the oxide layer (and therefore resistance) grows you will need a power supply that is able to reach at least around 75 volts, preferably 100 volts in the end. The higher voltage is needed to push the current through the resistive oxide layer. You will need agitation in the tank and a real chiller of some kind. In type III the pores of the resulting oxide layer are smaller and the anodized part does not accept any dye. The part will be black or very dark grey as is. Also the parts generally do not need to be sealed with cancerous chemicals. I just boil an hour in DI water just like with type II process.
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
I understand all this stuff now, I’m running a vari-ac through a bridge rectifier as my power supply which allows me to push up to 120 volts, this was my first attempt at anodizing and I documented it. I’ve read that the bath temperatures need to be near -80c, so I’ve been chilling ethanol with dry ice and using it to refrigerate the tank instead of pumping the acid itself. The problem I’ve run into with all this is conflicting information from different sources.
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
If all that is necessary is around 32F, that’s completely achievable without any costly refrigeration processes. Also, What qualifies you to speak on this? Just curious.
@xjyrki
Жыл бұрын
@@uzifouryoutwosay I replied to you but apparently my reply was automatically flagged as spam? Can you see it in the Studio?
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
@@xjyrki I never saw your other comment, sorry about that
@xjyrki
Жыл бұрын
@@uzifouryoutwosay If I remember correctly, I just wrote that the Q&A's at the finishing website have been really helpful for me. Add the TLD for commercial domains after the finishing word.
@jjanes0918
Жыл бұрын
so did this in fact create a 'hard' anodized coating you mentioned you'll see
@fredflintstone8048
3 ай бұрын
The level of the voltage drives the amperage given the apparent resistance in ANY circuit. When you regulate the maximum amperage at the power supply you automatically limit the voltage applied in order NOT to exceed that amperage. So in essence you don't need to worry about what the Voltage is to get the desired about of current flow. If you crank up the current setting, you'll see the voltage rise. At the same time you need to have the voltage setting on the power supply HIGH enough in order to maintain your current setting, so one must decide what they want to maintain at the steady rate. If it's Voltage, then set the voltage and then run up the allowed current high enough so that the voltage can be maintained. The point to remember: Voltage is the pressure applied to a circuit, Current is the amount of flow of electricity in the circuit.
@Recondog90
Жыл бұрын
Did you use heavy duty aluminum foil instead of lead? Do you have any links to the stuff you purchased off of amazon? Thanks in advance for i have 2 lowers to do.
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
I used regular aluminum foil, which will work just fine for single use, as will aluminum wire. I recommend using some aluminum bolts and nuts to secure the connection through the grip screw hole, otherwise if it’s just hanging, you’ll lose contact. Also, using chilled automotive antifreeze seems to be the way to go to cool your bath.
@djemyvandermeijden794
5 ай бұрын
my tip when your done anodizing a part keep it in boiling water for like 15mins to keep the paint solid on there you rinze it with clean water and you wash most of of it
@uzifouryoutwosay
5 ай бұрын
So if you boil it after dying, that is correct, that seals the dye in the pores of the aluminum(creates aluminum hydroxide in the pore structure) , whereas if you’ve sealed it with nickle acetate, the sealing has already taken place, and boiling it afterwards doesn’t change the final result.
@djemyvandermeijden794
5 ай бұрын
@@uzifouryoutwosay that is basicly what i said 🤣
@jjanes0918
Жыл бұрын
What solution was your nickel acetate as well s the temp and is that required for hard anodizing looking around I saw people saying Very cold water will also seal the dye in place. I think I got most of your specs down as far as solutions and concentration but a list would be nice 12+V at 6Amp was what I was going to use
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
I bought some off amazon, as well as the dye. I think 130 deg for the acetate, I’m not sure about cold water, I’ve been able to wash the dye off a part with water after dipping and before sealing. I’ll do that, I’m doing another anodization run here shortly with an upgraded power supply and chilling method. I would say that though you can use a 12V battery charger, the higher the voltage, the thicker the coating before you hit peak anodic resistance((PAR)). Anodization is non-comductive, and you’ll need the juice to get the hardest and thickest coatings. This is why I went to a variable AC power supply and a bridge rectifier
@jjanes0918
Жыл бұрын
@@uzifouryoutwosay thank you very much a few more questions:what strength of nickel acetate solution or what ratio for powder to make solution. I would be very interested in the new video. I was planning on using a bolt to go into the lower where the grip attaches first through a hanging board the two nuts to be able to secure the assembly to the hanger the second bolt I can place the wiring between in order to make it nice and secure then the lowers won't move and be independent except for conductivity
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
@@jjanes0918 I honestly don’t remeber, but I made several gallons with the stuff I bought off amazon. It’s got a black and white label, and it comes in an aluminum bottle. The aluminum screw is by far the best method next to a titanium screw, which has a conductive oxide layer and is reusable without having to remove the anodization off it. Watch my other hard coat anodizing video for the next best step. The key is solid conductivity and super chilled ethanol(e85) as a refrigerant.
@xjyrki
Жыл бұрын
@@uzifouryoutwosay I wrote you a comment a few minutes ago but came back to read other comments... You need *controlled* cooling. The correct temperature for type III is between -2 and 0 degrees celsius. My small scale hobbyist setup is a small freezer with 20 liters of propylene glycol at -18 degrees celsius, a pump with a temperature controlled relay, a K-type thermocouple in a teflon sock in the acid, magnetic stirrer and also a small amount of air agitation. All three containers are PP plastic (acid bath, chiller bath around the acid bath and larger container under those for possible spills), so the magnetic stirrer works great in a small bath. I have been planning to make a video of my setup. Also, nickel acetate causes cancer and is not needed. Boil parts for an hour in DI water. It is also hazardous waste and cannot be poured in the drain.
@Yahweh-Chase-Bella
Жыл бұрын
Where's old Bill Nye when ya need em lol
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
I want 1990’s Bill Nye back, before he started chastising everyone about global warming
@robjohns5806
4 ай бұрын
Your power supply isn't pushing 12v because the setup is shorted and the path of least resistance doesn't require 12v . i think the current is passing thru the top support bar for hanging ur lower and straight to the foil, not passing thru the electrolitic sulotion.. if you short the alligator clips directly together it would read even less Voltage.. no matter how high you turn the Voltage dail. Edit: sry bro bro, didn't read ur earlier reply saying you are now using a variac and rectifying back to AC.. seems like you know whats what.
@uzifouryoutwosay
4 ай бұрын
Appology accepted, It’s DC that comes off the bridge rectifier, but I appreciate the acknowledgement. This was my first ever attempt, and I documented it for the whole internet. In retrospect I’m surprised I got as good a result as I did, knowing how hilt-whammy my whole entire setup was. No agitation, terrible racking, etc. Needless to say, mistakes were made.
@jjanes0918
Жыл бұрын
Here are some specs I came up with could you give me your opinion on these: Solution/Process Time: Temp Concentration/power Lye bath rinsed with distilled water: 15-30 seconds 130F 76g to 1 gal distilled water Acid bath rinsed distilled water: ???? 130F??? 30V 6Amp - 1 part battery acid 3 parts distilled water Dye 15-30secs -10 mins?? ??? typical mix Sealer Nickel Acetate ??? 195F typical mix
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
So, I’m not an authority by any stretch, but the differences I can see are that my smut bath (lye solution) was room temperature, which I would *think* will make it less aggressive on the part. Also, from what I’ve seen, nickle acetate only needs to be 130F, though I suspect you *may* have a better result in sealing the dye into the pores if that sealing step is performed at a higher temp, same with your dye step, as it’ll open the pores up allowing more material in. What’s more, maybe even doing your dye at 190F and the sealant at 130 may lock the dye in better.
@jjanes0918
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the temp info @@uzifouryoutwosay what would you say about durations in each solution??
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
So the acid bath I watch for peak anodic resistance, essentially you’ll hit a certain voltage where it starts to decline while maintaining the same current, this means that the acid bath is reversing the process, and that’s usually my tell tale. For the dye, I usually use around 10-15 mins, and the same for the nickel acetate. Honestly the lye bath should only be for maybe 10 seconds if you want to. That stuff can be pretty aggressive for no reason if your parts are clean
@Rahatlakhoom
4 ай бұрын
Not bad results. I'm not sold on the anodizing thing. It's like a wet powder coating. Hell, I thought it involved a deposition of metallic ions to form a black finish. Clothing dye? That's weak. I like the nickel solution idea. What we will do for our firearms...anything!
@uzifouryoutwosay
4 ай бұрын
I hear ya, this is a cosmetic anodization that improved the wear properties and made it match the rest of the gun. Frankly I would do anodization and then something like cerakote, as the anodizing improves the wear characteristics of the aluminum significantly. The Cerakote also does this, but can be customized color wise
@Rahatlakhoom
4 ай бұрын
@@uzifouryoutwosayCerakote sounds like an excellent solution. The anodizing surface seems to create a good bonding surface for coatings. I'm used to GunKote, I may try this over anodizing. Thanks!
@starfishprime2864
Жыл бұрын
Don't you have to boil the dye?
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
I think it needs to be hot, I’m not sure to be honest, though I think not boiling
@doctorzvingo9321
Жыл бұрын
hard anodizing is more grayish not that color, you slowed anodising water by the cold water, it needs 50/50 mix and 100 volts, you can let anodising about 3 hours that voltage and about 10 celcius acid temperature and it gives more hard and gray color anodizing.
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
I’ve seen conflicting information on what temperature and treatment is necessary for hard anodization, some reports stating -130 F acid solution, and 100 volts like you stated. Caswell plating said somewhere near 37 F would work, and a lower voltage. Either way, I hit peak anodic resistance too early and wasn’t able to achieve what I had actually set out to do. Also, from what I understand, the nickel acetate is supposed to improve the overall hardness of the finish.
@doctorzvingo9321
Жыл бұрын
@@uzifouryoutwosay materialsdata.nist.gov/bitstream/handle/11115/221/Anodizing.pdf?sequence=1 everything i've done is wrong :ddd here some good information
@realtruth97
8 ай бұрын
Do you really have your dog there smelling this stuff? You do know they depend on their sense of smell right?
@uzifouryoutwosay
8 ай бұрын
No I do not have my dogs in their smelling this stuff. Yes I am aware of dogs and their olfactory dependence
@forthehellofit5544
Жыл бұрын
I can do a lot of shit, but still a little iffy on this
@stefanmolnapor910
Жыл бұрын
You'll save big money, you'll save big money..... When you Shop..........
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
MENARRRDS
@ryderDoO
Жыл бұрын
So basically anodizing outside In a cold climate area would be considered hard anodizing 😂
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
Dude essentially.
@jackofallglass165
7 ай бұрын
just fyi, you really need to have an FFL to modify lower receivers now in any way. or really any part of a gun. its super dumb and i hate it. but if you do not have an ffl you technically just modified a gun on camera. anodizing can also make the serial number "harder to read" or at least that's what a democratic prosecutor would try and pull.
@jackofallglass165
7 ай бұрын
cool video tho and i'm totally not about to do the same thing. but i will not be recording my grey area endeavors.
@uzifouryoutwosay
7 ай бұрын
@@jackofallglass165 as an individual you are not required to have an FFL to manufacture your own firearms for personal use. There is some consternation about serialization of home made firearms, but at this point the only people required to serialize home made firearms are FFL’s who take in firearms for gunsmithing(which cerakote and anodization fall under tha category of “manufacturing” a firearms now) and even that is gray only because an FFL is not required to log firearms that are not held overnight/for more than 24 hours. As an individual, for personal use though, you can paint, cerakote, parkerize, do whatever process you’re capable of, to your own firearms. Tom Grieve and Washington Gun Law have good videos covering this and I believe Tom Grieve has released one on the developments of the court case surrounding this within the last three weeks.
@jackofallglass165
7 ай бұрын
@@uzifouryoutwosay dang, good to know
@uzifouryoutwosay
7 ай бұрын
@@jackofallglass165 No worries man, I got into this specific field of anodization due to that ATF Ghost gun ruling, and I’ve followed it closely since.
@Call_Me_Dragon
Жыл бұрын
What the hell are you doing ?
@uzifouryoutwosay
Жыл бұрын
I see you’re not a golfer.
@declineofthewest.
5 ай бұрын
Subscribed
@uzifouryoutwosay
5 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@davidcamera8464
7 ай бұрын
first off distiller water will not conduct elect.
@uzifouryoutwosay
7 ай бұрын
And?
@Deeznuts-cz3cs
2 ай бұрын
Can you touch up a black hard coat anodized part I have a part that has lit chip on the edge I want to know how repair it
@uzifouryoutwosay
2 ай бұрын
So I know you can do two step anodization, and it’s possible you could re-anodize that part depending on how big the chip is. (The bigger the better I would think). Otherwise sharpie marker is a close runner up
@Deeznuts-cz3cs
2 ай бұрын
@@uzifouryoutwosay appreciate the reply!! It’s a little small chip on the edge of my compensator would I have to remove the anodizing coat that’s already on there and replace with a new one ? Or is there a method where I can get that edge re-anodized ?
@uzifouryoutwosay
2 ай бұрын
@@Deeznuts-cz3cs so the anodizing that’s on the part now won’t conduct electricity, but that area that’s chipped will. The issue will be holding it so it makes contact with your power source in a place that’s out of sight, as that will need bare metal as well. Frankly, I would strip the thing with a sodium hydroxide solution (lye) and then just redo the whole thing, dye and seal it. It’ll be the most straightforward way to do it.
@Deeznuts-cz3cs
2 ай бұрын
@@uzifouryoutwosay if I do that I don’t need to worry about my comp shrinkage ? Or damage ?
@uzifouryoutwosay
2 ай бұрын
@@Deeznuts-cz3cs your diameters will probably open up slightly, but chances are you won’t be able to perceive it unless something requires a +\-.0005 fit.
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