How to remove the rear pillar trim on a third generation Dodge Ram. This particular truck is a 2006 regular cab model, a similar procedure may apply to the 4 door trucks. This will also be covering basic speaker removal as well. #dodge #dodgeram #mopar
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-T25, T45, and T50 torx bits
-ratchet set
-nylon trim tool
-new clips
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:20 Rear Storage Tray
00:56 Driver's Side Pillar Trim
02:22 Passenger's Side Pillar Trim
03:08 Speaker Removal
03:41 Trim Clip Replacement and Repair
04:40 Installation
Procedure:
Remove the three T25 torx screws in the base which holds in the rear tray. You’ll need to push both seats ahead. I ended up unbolting the center seat backrest and was able to push it ahead a couple of inches. It’s held in with two T45 torx bolts.
Lift out the rear tray.
Now for the seat belt pivots. Remove the outer cap, this just snaps into place. Remove the T50 torx bolt. This will come out a little harder as it has thread locker. Then remove the pivot.
The trim comes out in two pieces, the top portion is required to be removed first. I found it’s easiest to grab onto by the door's edge, then pull the trim straight out. There are various clips on the backside that holds it into place. I’ll give a view of the backside further on in the video.
The bottom piece uses the same style of snap clips. Start from the top and slowly work your way down. You’ll need to twist the seat and feed it through the slot at the top of the trim. When you get to the bottom, this piece of trim slips under the front part of the door sill trim. You can completely remove the door sill trim or just pop up the back portion. It has enough flex to work the rear piece out.
For the speakers, mine was held in with phillips screws. You’re maybe slightly different as my speakers had been changed. I believe the factory Dodge speakers for the rear hear are 5 1/4” but some did install 6 1/2” speakers. To gain access to those rear screws, you can pull the carpet liner out and go from behind with a screwdriver. I replaced the speakers with another pair of 6 1/2” but a different brand. The speaker basket with a slightly different design, so they didn’t fit in the factory cutouts. Instead, I had to make up custom spacers so they fit properly.
Unfortunately, most of the clips close to the flare were completely rotten which is why you’re seeing rust staining. I purchased some generic replacements from Amazon. Their profile does need to be adjusted slightly to get a tight fit, they do work well otherwise. To adjust their profile, just use needle-nose pliers to make the clip slightly wider and pinch the portion tighter where it clips onto the plastic trim.
Some clips and alignment tabs were also bent from improper reinstallation. To fix this, heat the plastic with a heat gun, bent it back into the proper position, and let it cool.
As for removing the leftover portions of the rusty clips, use a small screwdriver or scriber in their mounting holes along with a vacuum.
For installation, twist the seat beat and feed it into its slot. Make sure it’s not twisted and laying in the correct position. Ensure it’s fully pushed down and under the first portion of sill trim, align the tabs and slowly snap it back into place making sure you’ve not damaged any tangs. Once done, snap the backside of the sill trim in place.
Do the same for the top piece. Align the tangs and clips, then push it into place. You’ll most likely need to align the seat height adjustment trim too.
Install the seat belt pivot, again make sure the belt isn’t twisted and in the correct position. You may need to apply more medium grade thread locker to the bolt. Tighten the T50 torx bolt to 29 ft lbs or 39 NM.
And finally is snapping on the cap.
For the opposite, it’s the same process.
Reinstall the storage tray, it can be a little tricky getting it back into place as it’s an awkward piece. Reinstall all the T25 torx screws, there are 3 in total. The final part to be bolted back in is the armrest, the bolts are different for each side. Then you’re officially done.
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