This is the technique taught by Nancy Zieman back in 1999 in her "Fitting Finesse" and "Pattern Fitting With Confidence" books and shows. The episodes from her shows are still online and it's a great technique. Nancy Zieman also has books that accompany her shows which are very good -- she shows how to alter tops, pants, skirts and move darts, all without cutting the pattern.
@shawnmorymcmillion
11 жыл бұрын
I am sewing a dress for my adult daughter to wear to a wedding tomorrow and she is heavily busted. I was really stressing out on the proper way to increase the commercial pattern when in desperation, I turned to KZitem this morning at 3:00 AM. YOU ARE AN ANGEL WHO SAVED ME FROM A MAJOR PANIC ATTACK!!! Thanks to you she will have a beautiful dress to wear tomorrow!!! God bless you for your generosity in sharing your gifts, talents, and knowledge with those of us still learning!
@dayiam80
7 жыл бұрын
Thank you! So much easier and understandable than the other 15 I watched today!
@thaliacrafts407
Жыл бұрын
Five years later and I'm still feeling this comment
@pattimaska4124
10 жыл бұрын
This is terrific! I've been sewing for (ack!) 45 years, and I've been doing pattern alterations for 35 years. Your information is spot on, and I really love how you explain WHY you do it, as opposed to just doing it. I've used the slash and spread method, but I'm always ready to learn easier ways! i.e. you *CAN* adjust a princess bust line if you measure the bust point in addition to everything else. Please keep up the excellent work for our fellow neophytes.
@ProfessorPincushion
10 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for the kind words! You have made my day :)
@toniadams7816
10 жыл бұрын
WHY HAVE I NOT DISCOVERED YOUR SERIES BEFORE!!!!!!!ugh i would have saved myself hours of tears and heartache...
@ProfessorPincushion
10 жыл бұрын
aw...better late than never. :) Thanks for watching
@ProfessorPincushion
12 жыл бұрын
It depends on how much you're adding. If you're adding less than 4 inches total, you can probably just ease the sleeve in as sleeves are usually eased in normally. If you're doing something more extreme than you'll have to add an extension to the sleeve. We'll eventually have a tutorial showing sleeve alterations.
@LaTonyaC
8 жыл бұрын
This was the easiest one I've seen. Commercial pattern designers should think about us curvy girls Bc they NEVER fit and we always need to make an adjustment. Thank you so much
@ewan2734
7 жыл бұрын
LaTonya Moody you can use BURDA désignés they are much easier for beginners are old school but train them is like labirint. I will be doing my sewing room thus week so if 8 found few what still are at home so wear I will make video for you and post here.
@chalirisblanco1197
6 жыл бұрын
como cortar patron
@denisemartinez4588
3 жыл бұрын
Watch “sewing with Nancy” “fitting with finesse”. Her bust measurement to select pattern size has worked with every pattern I’ve ever purchased.
@inthekitchen8842
Жыл бұрын
Does this technique from Nancy accommodate large bust?
@annbesterci1041
8 жыл бұрын
Would love to see a FBA for princess seams. I have a 6" difference between my upper bust and full bust. I have no idea where to begin.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
you can do this! I actually think it's better to fit the bust and then make adjustments to the waist. That way you know the shoulder area will fit well and you don't have to worry about the armholes and then doing added alterations to the sleeves. Increasing the waist using the pivot method is less of a big deal. Also, don't forget to make a quick muslin so you can make sure your alterations work. good luck! :)
@jcampbell100
Жыл бұрын
So glad I found,this. I had previously tried the slash method and almost ruined my pattern. I put it back together and tried your method and so glad I did the blouse fits and I will be able to make many more thanks so much.
@ProfessorPincushion
12 жыл бұрын
wow, I'm impressed you go through that extra step. yes, you can iron it, just make sure the iron is only warm (not hot) and not to leave it on too long. It won't come out completely smooth but it does help.
@moniquep2760
11 жыл бұрын
this is absolutely the best FBA I have ever done. Excellent fit first try. Thank you so much!!
@josephineogenga6466
6 жыл бұрын
Thank you Professor Pincushion, you have made life a bit easier when it comes to adjustments
@olajordan9951
2 жыл бұрын
This is your first tute that I can’t seem to follow. I will keep trying.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
So glad we were able to help you out and your daughter had a lovely dress to wear. :D
@StepIntoGodsLight
8 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing all this information. Whenever I need help I normally turn to your videos. Easy to follow and answer all my question.
@dianekocsis2578
Жыл бұрын
great video, This is how nancy zeeman use to do it but she had seam allowances printed on pattern, I needed to know how to add these so I could use the pivot method. thank you!!!
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
Beautiful dress. Since you don't have any straps, try pivoting from the waistline out to your increase at the bustline. Just realize that you can't pivot more than 1" per side seam without doing an extra extension. Be sure to make a muslin after your alterations so you can test to see if this alteration works before using more expensive fabric
@Olivetreedisciples3887
4 жыл бұрын
Very good tutorial. Short sweet and to the point. Easy to follow and understand
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
Glad we were able to help out. Just make sure you do a muslin first so you can test your alteration first. I'd love to see a picture of your vintage dress when you finish. :)
@Butterflyjonesful
5 жыл бұрын
Best step by step video. Thank you. I am big busted and need to make adjustments in this area. Much appreciated
@junescholz8364
3 жыл бұрын
Thankyou so much.....I have adjusted my pattern and can’t wait to sew. You are so clear with your instructions. Thankyou again
@Cowpunkgirl2
11 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this tutorial. I recently bought a vintage pattern I love. I couldn't figure how to add to the bust size. This makes so much sense to me.
@ProfessorPincushion
12 жыл бұрын
Yes, you can use this technique. It'll deepen the dart a bit but should work. Just make sure you do a muslin to test your alterations before using your more expensive fabric.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
So glad you found out video helpful. :) I'd love to see how your costume turns out.
@amme30
7 жыл бұрын
Thank you for explaining this in such an easy to understand way, I've added this teaching session to my favourites and will be sure to reference back each time I need to do a FBA. thank you
@marysinclair1917
10 жыл бұрын
I also found another video on pattern grading which explains easily how to do it. But I look forward to yours. Many thanks again.
@ProfessorPincushion
10 жыл бұрын
oh good. I hope it works out for you.
@mauimedows
3 жыл бұрын
A little confusing in inches so I’ll follow the procedure in the metric system. Much easier for me . Thanks 🙏 Great video
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
I just answered you on the site about the 4" difference but you would extend the side dart from it's original point. so the dart would be longer.
@afeminame
4 жыл бұрын
@professorpincushion Hi, I just found this method. I'm new to sewing. I'm wondering how to go about using this method for adjustments when the back is cut on the fold. Would one only adjust the two front pieces?
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
nice! be sure to watch our tutorial on increasing the sleeve width (if you have sleeves) as this needs to be done if you're increasing more than 1" and really affecting the armhole size.
@gailmartinez830
4 жыл бұрын
Easy to see and understand ...Nancy’s notions from pic channel talked about this method but you explained and showed so smoothly.. looking for more other adjustments we need to make middle area and hips pants thank you
@everyday0
6 жыл бұрын
omg you have saved my mental health (no more frustrations) with these easy instructions. It worked! Maybe you have saved as well my love life with that lol
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
We hope to have a tutorial on this soon
@carolmwangi8926
8 жыл бұрын
This was such a fantastic and easy to follow tutorial! Many thanks for sharing in addition to the sleeve pattern alteration. I achieved the perfect fit following your instructions! Cheers from London :-)
@ProfessorPincushion
8 жыл бұрын
yay! I'm so glad to hear that :)
@MrVllamas08
8 жыл бұрын
Thank you for taking the time to reply. I love your smarting the info you have. Please consider doing a video for this kind of alteration. In the mean time I will Google it as you suggested.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
I can see what you're saying, especially if someone has a small back and is really busty, but not everyone has the same shape. We're also dealing with full body measurements that are printed on the commercial pattern and pattern companies don't break down these measurements for front and back nor how much ease is going to be added to each section. I can only recommend doing a muslin of any alteration you make and then making adjustments if you need to.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
I would check the finished bust measurements. It looks pretty loose fitting so you might not have to adjust as much as you think. You'll still want to pivot back towards the side seam just so you can make sure that is a nice continuous line. I'd love to see a picture when you finish. It's a cute look!
@neera3286
11 жыл бұрын
It was a pattern for cup B. I couldn't find any muslin in Malaysia but I used other cheap fabrics. Thank you so much! Looking forward to see your next video. ;)
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
Yes. Although, if you're increasing both, you may want to move up to the next size pattern. It doesn't the matter the order but I usually do bust and then waist or you can do both at the same time and just pivot to your new marks. :)
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
So are you looking to adjust the whole pattern up a size or two? That's called pattern grading. I do have it on my list to do a video on this, just don't know when that will be yet. In the meantime, I'll send you a link and maybe it can help you out.
@vinscullysgirl
12 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your quick reply! I sew them into the shoulder seam too. They still flip out at the top of the bodice. I've taken to cutting the facings larger, say double the width so I can sew them deeper into the other seams. Since I don't know what else to do, I completely line the bodices wherever possible, but the lining is still visible, turning out. AAARGH! If you think of any thing else, let me in on it!
@dr.jerilynvogelsang3922
4 ай бұрын
Excdllent and straight forward tutorial. Many thanks.
@yangelthomas
2 жыл бұрын
This site is so freaking awesome! Now I can finish my pajama top
@barbf8628
6 жыл бұрын
Finally, thank you, just adding material where I need it, without adding a dart! making simple, airy tips for summer, I don't want to add a dart, because it's just loose and airy! This ought to work for knits, as well as wovens, right
@mmgranlund1057
2 жыл бұрын
Excellent tutorial. Demystified the method. thank you.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
yes, you do the front and back on the side seam. You have two side seams on the back and two on the front and that's where the number 4 comes from.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
So glad to hear it worked out for you! :)
@123_utube
4 жыл бұрын
Hi, I love all of your videos related to commercial patterns. Thank you for your effort. Could you please show a video on how to reduce a wide ,deeper neckline of a commercial pattern to our own choice? I am very beginner in sewing. Thank you.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
Thank you! :) Professor Pincushion keeps me pretty busy but who knows, maybe some day
@Klutzy68
11 жыл бұрын
Ah, I finally understand how to pivot correctly, thank you! I hope I'm wrong but I suspect this method won't work for a large bust, DD or bigger. Do you have a tutorial for the pattern-slashing method? I will look for some others' but I find your videos very easy to follow.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
If it was me, fit according to the bust and not your waist. That way we know that the shoulders of the garment is going to fit well. The waist is an easy adjustment to make. Also, be sure to look at the finished garment measurements. Sometimes that helps in your decision making as well. And don't forget to make a muslin first to test the fit. I'd love to see a picture when you finish :)
@ProfessorPincushion
12 жыл бұрын
I think Zieman's chart is based on your front width measurement which is still measuring the area of the high bust, but just the front of the body instead of the whole circumference. This system may work better for someone with a small back, but they both are working from the idea that you're finding a pattern that will first fit your shoulders and then just increasing the bustline. Zeiman is great so I would never go against her. :)
@TheSunnyone1
10 жыл бұрын
OMG!! Thank you so much!! I was buying the wrong size pattern. So I tried to adjust the bust as well as waist. Hopefully all will come out ok. Thanks, jean,,
@FootoftheCrossMinistries
10 жыл бұрын
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!! This helped me so much! I have a pretty full bust and always need to add to patterns. Go bless you!
@ProfessorPincushion
10 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the kind words! so glad you found our tutorial helpful :)
@tunnasch
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you, PP! :) That slash in four places and spread looks very scary to me. I shouldn't judge before I actually watch a tutorial. Thanks for the option to get me started.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
Are you using a pattern for a cup C or you already did an alteration to the pattern? You could add the two inches alteration but I suggest sewing a muslin after doing your alterations. It just means using a cheap fabric, and basting the bodice together enough so you can try it on and test the fit. That way you can tell if it fits before using more expensive fabric.
@modernmodesty
11 жыл бұрын
I've never seen ths approach...im use to the slash&spread method. I'll try ths now & see if it really works.
@sus8e462
3 жыл бұрын
It's great if your apex/bust point is at the arm hole height & don't mind the side seam shifting to the front--but great option for some situations!
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
hi there. Is it like a princess seam? I googled it and can only find a tiny image of a pattern with a pink top. You can just do an increase on the side seam pieces only and then you don't have to worry about the other piece. If you increase by a lot, be sure to also see our increase sleeve width tutorial. We show you what to do if you increase by more than 4". You can also divide by # of seams and increase using all the pieces, pivoting on each side but we don't have that tutorial yet.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
I would say it depends on how much you're increasing it by. If it's just a little I would just stick to adding to the side seams. If it's a lot, you can distribute the measurement to all your seams, that way you don't have to worry about the armhole getting too out of shape.
@lmarxuach
10 жыл бұрын
Great tutorial! Looking forward to apply this to a blouse pattern I recently purchased.
@minimecfcom
6 жыл бұрын
Professor Pincushion I have watched all you videos on the pivot and slide method and they are great. I just wanted to know how exactly this method would work on garments with princess seams specifically waist increases. Would love to see a video on how pivot and slide technique work for princess seam.
@ProfessorPincushion
6 жыл бұрын
If you're not increasing by very much, you can just pivot/add to the side bodice pieces only and just keep it simple.
@Maridith2
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you!! That is my exact issue and I appreciate your great tutorial!
@magnoliasouth
11 жыл бұрын
Excellent! Thank you so much for taking the time to answer. I really appreciate that.
@Klutzy68
11 жыл бұрын
Have you ever considered becoming a Craftsy teacher? You have a real knack for teaching!
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
The waistline does not have a maximum pivot restriction so you're fine just doing a 1" pivot on the bustline and a 1 3/4" pivot on the waist without having to do any extensions.
@patriciarive6661
11 жыл бұрын
thank you for your reply it was very helpful but in the end what I did was go and find a pattern similar to the dress I was making and used the bodice and fitted it to the skirt of the dress that way I didn't have to alter anything other than the waist which is easier I feel
@marysinclair1917
10 жыл бұрын
Im trying to increase a size 20-22 to a size 30 from this collection with the professor's help.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
The reason the bustline has it is because you'll start distorting the armhole. Your situation is a little different since your dress doesn't have an armhole to worry about. You can see me doing an extension on a bustline in our increase sleeve width alteration tutorial which is also on our channel. It's in the second part of the video, around the 19:30 timecode I think.
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
This is without making alterations, it's just always big? You're probably like me (I have a small back so my bodices are usually bigger in the back). You can measure your back width (at your problem area: waistline) & compare this to the back bodice pieces (without seam allowances) & then use the same system of decreasing the waistline but you'll only be dividing by 2 because you're just adjusting the back bodice. Definitely make a test muslin of the bodice before using more expensive fabric.
@qormi1000
8 жыл бұрын
Excellent video Prof Pincushion
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
hi there! yes, this technique only affects the bustline and the waistline will remain the same. If you increase the bustline by more than 4" total, check out our tutorial Increase Sleeve Width. The second half of the tutorial shows you what to do for large increases since you are changing the size of the armhole. Also, after you do your alteration, make a test run with inexpensive fabric so you can make sure it works.
@aniavazzo
Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for making this video. Can you answer a query for me please? What if there is a dart just below the arm pit on the front and at the shoulder at the back? Do I mark those darts in at the original position of the pattern piece or the pivoted position?
@mozu517
4 жыл бұрын
THANK YOU! I never realized that commercial patterns were made for B cups. No wonder my D cup doesn't fit! If I buy a pattern that fits my bust measurement the shoulders and sleeves are way too long and sloppy. And those are a bear to alter.
@ProfessorPincushion
4 жыл бұрын
Happy to help!
@MarySmith-hv9fs
5 жыл бұрын
If this bodice has sleeves, does an adjustment need to be made to the sleeves? I hope this isn't a stupid question. I haven't sewn in many ears and now I know why patterns don't fit me. Thank you so much for your clear, great tutorial and I hope you keep them coming. New subscriber. Thanks!
@ProfessorPincushion
5 жыл бұрын
It's not a stupid question. :) If you're altering by a small amount, you probably don't need to worry about it as the sleeves are eased in. But if you increase by a lot, you do need to. We have an increase sleeve width tutorial here: kzitem.info/news/bejne/jplssKaMpamhZX4
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
Not yet, but I hope to some day. We're going to be releasing a tutorial soon for those that need to pivot more than 4". It's a little different because you have to also alter the sleeves since you're changing the armhole size
@elladuhon2297
10 жыл бұрын
One last thought , you may want to start using push pins with the colors on the ends that are showing up larger , at least for these demonstrations because I never saw one pin in this demonstration that was not in your pin cushion. Thanks
@ProfessorPincushion
10 жыл бұрын
Ella Duhon Thanks for the feedback. I'll try making the pins more obvious next time :)
@fuddyduds
11 жыл бұрын
Thanks! That looks much easier than chopping up the bodice pattern as I have seen elsewhere. So glad to find your video before I started chopping! Will be using this soon on a costume alteration. Again, many thanks!
@Prayer4Pat
10 жыл бұрын
Wonderful! Excellent job of showing us this. Thank you
@ProfessorPincushion
10 жыл бұрын
Just Mom Thanks so much for watching! :)
@ProfessorPincushion
12 жыл бұрын
that is frustrating. Luckily, it's a very similar process using the pivot method. We'll try and have a tutorial on this some time next month and you'll be able to see exactly how it's done. :)
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
I would think this would work in your case. Just make sure you make your first version with cheap fabric and just baste your pieces together to test the fit.
@clairewaldron2466
3 жыл бұрын
This is extremely helpful! Thank you!
@carolosorio2880
11 жыл бұрын
Oh dear. I did all of this and it appears to be correct. One problem. My pattern (Butterick 5646) has a side bust dart which extends down to a point on the side seam. I redrew the side seam with the new point but how would I now draw the dart? Do I use the old end point and draw the dart lines to meet the new side point OR do I measure the end point out the same amount I extended the side seam thereby moving the entire dart?
@Karina-jm2oe
8 жыл бұрын
just to clarify... Did you say to do this to the back pattern piece as well?
@fit2sew
14 күн бұрын
This seems fine for very small adjustments but it does not add any extra length thru the centre front neither does it provide any extra shaping by making the darts bigger - both of which you need to fit a full bust. Unless I'm missing something?
@ProfessorPincushion
12 жыл бұрын
Are you referring to one of the Simplicity patterns? You can buy them directly on the Simplicity pattern website. I'm unsure if they ship to Mexico though so you would have to ask them.
@dnw75
8 жыл бұрын
I just came across this video. It's good to see the alteration actually being done instead of strictly trying to follow a book. Would this same technique apply for princess seams?
@ProfessorPincushion
8 жыл бұрын
yes, if it's just a small amount, you can add the increase to the side seam of the side front/side back of the princess seam pattern. If it's a large increase, you may want to add the increase to other bodice pieces as well, but you'll have to divide by a higher number (whatever number of seams you're adding the increase too)
@sarahturnbull7610
9 жыл бұрын
Hello Professor Pincushion! It seems to me that at the end of the video, you advise to do the same alteration on the back pattern piece. Sorry if this is a silly question, but I was just wondering why - we don't need more room on the back of a bodice for our bust, do we? Cheers, Sarah
@ponyabouttown4981
9 жыл бұрын
+Sarah Turnbull You are right. In my experience doing FBAs (and I usually have to, I am a 32H!) you only adjust the front pattern piece. Get the book *Fit For Real People* which will show you a couple of different ways of doing a FBA...none of which involve the armsceye (the arm hole). If only the pattern companies would stop making their patterns default to a B cup; after all, the average cup size in the U.S. is now DD/E!
@sarahturnbull7610
9 жыл бұрын
+Ponyabout Town Thank you, I have actually just requested that book from my library, so good to know that it is useful. I do agree with the "default B cup" being a nuisance. I wish there was an indie pattern company specialising in larger cup sizes (I know there is Petite Plus, but I fall below their smallest size in the body). I have seen patterns with multiple cup size options from the Big 4, but I also read reviews where sewers say the drafting of the larger cup sizes isn't very sophisticated.
@ponyabouttown4981
9 жыл бұрын
+Sarah Turnbull It's worth it to buy the book. You can probably find it used online, try half.com, ebay, or amazon. I pull mine out every time I need to do an FBA, just to refresh. Plus, it includes other body area alterations.
@LaTonyaC
8 жыл бұрын
+Ponyabout Town I agree. They make these patterns for unrealistic shapes.
@martamonarca9020
3 жыл бұрын
Great! It's a fantastic explanation. Thank you. Is it possible to use the same pivot method for the waist adjustment?
@ProfessorPincushion
12 жыл бұрын
When you do your facing, you're finishing it with an understitch and then a topstitch, right? I've also gotten in the habit of stitching down the facing right at the shoulder seams. And I mean I'm stitching in the ditch (right in the center of the seam) of the shoulder seam. By doing this, you're not going to see any of your stitches. :)
@sharonlatour6230
10 жыл бұрын
Excellent tutorial on how to enlarge a pattern
@ProfessorPincushion
10 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the kind words! :)
@sharonlatour6230
10 жыл бұрын
You are welcome! :)
@aniavazzo
Жыл бұрын
Sorry, I have a follow up question concerning the darts I asked about below. Should I follow the markings of the darts for my full bust size or my upper bust size? Thank you.
@mademoiselledusfonctionell1609
4 жыл бұрын
Very interesting and instructive, but what I cannot understand is the inbuilt seam allowance. In Europe, we don't have that. We mark the outer edges of the pattern and sew there. Hey, presto! as Americans say - sew along the markings, no meed to make an estimate of 5/8".
@ca6177
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks, very informational
@jcsbaby
12 жыл бұрын
What do you think is better, Nancy Zieman's bust measurement chart or just using the high bust measurement?
@ElishaDaizy
11 жыл бұрын
Sorry bout that, computer glitch. As I was saying, so I have discovered that the pattern size that I thought I would be able to wear is actually smaller then the commercial sizes. I like this method, but I don't think it will work for a full figured girl. Can you please show some videos on how to alter patterns to fit full figured girls? I have this pattern from Simplicity, it's a dress, and I want to make it, but I have found that my measurement don't come close to theirs. Can you please help?
@ProfessorPincushion
11 жыл бұрын
watch our tutorial on increasing the sleeve width because we show what you need to do for increasing the bustline if you are increasing by a great deal. (It's in this video because you also need to adjust the sleeves since you're altering the armhole size) I would also look at the particular pattern, and if it's not a fitted waist but is designed to be a little looser, maybe go up to the next size pattern so you don't have to increase by so much.
@WilsonDrive
9 жыл бұрын
This is so helpful. Thank you! Should coordinating adjustments also be made to the facings of the armhole? How is that done?
@ProfessorPincushion
9 жыл бұрын
Jana Bell yes, you would adjust the facings. Because armhole facing pieces usually have a pretty simplistic shape, I'd just add the extra measurement to the ends. Definitely split it up between front and back pieces
@Vincentianbeauty
11 жыл бұрын
Your videos are fantastic. I have McCalls M6746 do I only need to do step one of you bust increase video. I ask because as you can see it is a smock fit.
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