Emily from the future here! Check out my latest astrophotography video, featuring 2x micro four thirds cameras… and also a full beginner’s course! kzitem.info/news/bejne/2Ket2pZ3ZnhobHo
@Nulrom
5 жыл бұрын
Good video, I will add 5 things: 1 another great and used lens for astrophotography with mft is the samyang 12mm f2. Is a little narrower than the laowa but has great image quality and is more versatile than a "15mm" lens. 2 remember to disable your in camera image stabilization. When you are on a tripod (a good one) your camera is still as a rock. The image stabilization may disturb your image, creating loss of detail. I did this mistake once. Never will again. 3 shot the photo using the delayed shot. There is one that is made basically for this, adds to second before shooting. So you will not shake the camera using the button. 4 There is also in some cameras a function that reduces the shake caused by the shutter closing. You may check yours. In Oly bodies is called shutter shock and has a little diamond on the frame. It's a plus but not really necessary. 5 you don't need filters usually. Filters may be used but in particular case and if you need something special. Happy starry photos to all! :D
@wildadventurelife6733
4 жыл бұрын
Help me . I want to take time lapse video in night with nikon d7500. How can I?
@OutlandishJourneys
5 жыл бұрын
This is EXACTLY the tutorial I've been waiting for! Thanks so much for posting! Love your Channel and keep up the excellent content! :)
@Ryan_Perrin
2 жыл бұрын
I've taken a few really decent milky way photos with the gx85 at 800 iso and the Panasonic 25mm f1.7. At this iso I was about to get a relatively decent output with 6-10 second exposures. Not amazing, but definitely a good way to dip my toes in
@Astrolavista
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you Emily :) I've dabbled with Astro with a G80 last year. I found I got better results with the noise reduction left on, even with multiple stacked images, but as you say, taking dark frames with the lens cap will work instead. The great thing with M43 (the sensor not the Messier object) is you don't need to worry about taking flat frames for vignetting like you do with larger sensors. Just for kicks I'm about to do a 50 quid M43 challenge where I pick up a camera body sub 50 quid and see what I can do astro wise with it? I think we're looking at something like an Oly EPL2 or a Pany G3 sub 50 quid, but I'll see what I can dig up :)
@knightclan4
3 жыл бұрын
Perfect amount and level of background music. Excellent editing
@Sanguinus_imperator
3 жыл бұрын
Damn, the tipp with the stacking and including blank images with the lens cap on sounds amazing. I really have to try that
@schwerdtr
2 жыл бұрын
Here we are talking more about "the world at night" than real astrophotography/deep sky ... I use all my fast lenses and for milky way I prefer Laowa 7.5 / F2. The Oly 8mm 1.8 is also fine but sometimes I have had small troubles during stacking. When using 15mm Leica I stacked a number of images and put them together (using hugin) for a big panorama. ISO: There is not so much more information when using ISO higher than something around 1600 (the histogram should not be completly at the left end) - just check photons to photos input reffered read noise. Using high ISO reduces your dynamic range. But if you take enough photos noise is not a big issue. If you double the number of photos the noise is reduced by half of a lens stop. 4 photos = 2 times less noise, 16 photos = 4 times less noise. Using higher focal length I use my Syrp mini as a tracker. With my cheap self made tracker equipment I come to exposure times around ten times than without (= 2500/mft focal length [s]). So 25s with the Oly 75mm wide open (1.8) is a good equipment for orion nebula or Plejades and other deep sky objects.
@ro3843
Жыл бұрын
Your information is so practical and useful. I've been listening for years
@Daisy-bt7li
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you, so helpful and encouraging!
@henrycolestage4249
5 жыл бұрын
Miss Emily, you are my new hero ;-) I've just traded in my Fuji XH1 for the Olympus Em1 Mkii and am new to MFT world. Astro was the one thing I have been worried I might not be able to do (I just started with the Fuji) but you have provided the best real world MFT tips I have seen yet. Sub'd and belled, looking forward to more of your content. Kindest from sunny and warm Los Angeles!
@hoorayforpentax3801
5 жыл бұрын
I have been to places in Australia, miles from anywhere, where you could see the Milky Way and BOTH Magellanic Clouds with ease. It was an awesome sight. Unfortunately, digital cameras weren't invented then. One of these days...
@rjkral
4 жыл бұрын
Hooray for Pentax! I lived in Adelaide, an Australian CITY, where I could very easily and clearly see the Milky Way and the two magellanic clouds. Any clear night I wished. It was sooo good.
@hoorayforpentax3801
4 жыл бұрын
@@rjkral I lived in Adelaide as well. The place I saw this magnificent sight was at a school camp up on the Murray River. Adelaide at night was, I found, a little too bright to be able to see the Milky Way reliably, but it's not hard to get on the other side of the hills and block out most of the light.
@GeraldBertramPhotography
5 жыл бұрын
This was a really great video! I have always felt astrophotography was something akin to voodoo, mysterious and something I have no clue how to do. I just might have to trek out in the cold this week and give it a whirl
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
Ooh excellent! Definitely give it a go it is lots of fun 😁📷🎉
@toxictabasco
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the great demonstration on Night Sky Milky Way photography. I use a lot of those techniques in addition to a technique called Multi Shot Panorama. The horizon shot of the milky way comes around in Mar to June in the norther hemisphere. A PL15mm f/1.7 is the ideal choice for the 2 or 3 row panorama with 13 sec shutter, ISO 3200 to 4000 at f/1.7. I hope for clear skies this year. I look forward to more of your videos. Thanks.
@klb430
5 жыл бұрын
Cant wait for the editing follow up video! I don't have a MFT camera but do have the canon M5 and I absolutely love it! So small and cute and super fun to use! I hardly ever take my ff camera out anymore. Love your videos and optimism!
@bjnslc
5 жыл бұрын
A star tracking camera mount will give you long star exposure times without investing in a new lens, and can be cheaper than the Laowa. It will also allow you to do dark frame subtraction and use low ISOs if you have good polar alignment and you don't use too long a focal length.
@gloppenpadleklubb
5 жыл бұрын
BJ Nicholls do you have any concrete mark/brand/modell or link to a “star tracking camera mount” that is not to expensive?
@bjnslc
5 жыл бұрын
@@gloppenpadleklubb This is the smallest and least expensive mount I know of. www.moveshootmove.com/ The cable connection they provide does not work with Olympus and Panasonic cameras in time lapse mode, but the manufacturer says they are working on an app. Star tracking on this device works with any camera. Do some research on this and other trackers so you know how polar alignment and tracking works before you decide what to buy. There are good reviews on star trackers here on KZitem.
@larrj8928
5 жыл бұрын
I appreciate your video tutorials. I recently moved to m4/3 from aps-c Canon. I'm still figuring out the interface of Olympus OM-D-EM10 ii but I wanted to try out astrophotography so I'm grateful for this video. Keep posting! -Love from the Philippines.
@mikemitchell7708
5 жыл бұрын
Awesome Job! I just bought my first telescope last year and now looking at the astrophotography aspect. You made this a lot less intimidating..
@OskarHelgason
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Been meaning to try this out, ones I can bare going outside at night!❄
@drbango
4 жыл бұрын
Brilliant vid. Thanks. FYI Venus is in 'Traversing the Pleiades' atm (4 April 2020) . Something you shoot from lockdown garden/ bathroom window etc.
@GabrielOzga
3 жыл бұрын
Great Tutorial
@thethirdman225
5 жыл бұрын
I recently tried some astro with an E-M1 and 12mm M.Zuiko, side by side with an A7r and the results were very comparable. One thing worth doing though is to use Olympus Workspace (free download) to control you noise levels and then output to a tiff for final editing. I think it only works with E-M1 and upper end PEN models. As long as you match the camera to the Olympus Workspace, you should have no problems controlling noise.
@johnmcdonald2687
Жыл бұрын
Many thanks for the video, I’m a newbe
@vasiliszappas369
3 жыл бұрын
Nice beginners video tutorial. I would like to mention that the 500 rule is a little bit old. I recommend to use the NPF rule. Also, the focus should be set to infinity.
@I_Am_Bone
4 жыл бұрын
After watching this, and just recently purchasing an Olympus EM1mkII, I just ordered the 7Artisans lens! Thanks for the great review, and advice.
@ThePosiview
4 жыл бұрын
A wonderfully relaxing delivery style. And informative. Cheers.
@stephanieharper4993
4 жыл бұрын
This is exactly what I needed to get my first successful photo! Thank you for making such a complex topic so simple and easy to follow! Thanks!
@MicroFourNerds
4 жыл бұрын
So glad I could help! ☺️
@SereneBliss
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks awesome vid
@antonhofmann1796
4 жыл бұрын
i stumbled across this by looking through your posts (nice stuff by the way). Instead of getting a 7.5 lens (cheap or expensive) i recommend a star tracker like the omegon track mini (around 200 $) and the rule of 500 is completely shattered. i do multiple 3+ min exposures with my 20mm 1.7 pancake without any trails at all. stacking and combining with a landscape is a bit of a pain but worth the time. a tracker opens up a new level of astrophotography and is absolutely worth it.
@MicroFourNerds
4 жыл бұрын
Aah they’re so good! I recently got a move shoot move tracker (and reviewed!) which is brilliant. I need a bit more practice I think just to get polar alignment right etc but it will be a game changer for sure
@LexTNeville
4 жыл бұрын
For m43, use the 250 rule, and you don't then need to consider the ff focal length equivalent. So 250/12 if you're shooting a 12mm micro four thirds native lens.
@authunhx3129
4 жыл бұрын
Very useful indeed. Am off to Norway in Feb and hope to see and capture the northern lights. Thought it would be a good idea to start practicing with night skies now and your video is a great start. Thanks very much. Also, good tip about the 7.5 Laowa. I have one of these, usually for cathedral interiors and was wondering if it might be useful for night skies. So pleased it is given the cost of the thing.
@SidneyPratt
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks Emily.
@andrewbradley8047
3 жыл бұрын
Great video !
@r2rooooo
3 жыл бұрын
awesome
@ZaGaijinSmash
4 жыл бұрын
Great! Thank you! So nice to see a photography video by a happy person!
@aired-downdisconnected4125
5 жыл бұрын
With my G7. I was able to pull off some great star pics at Deadhorse S.P. using f8--60sec / 1600iso. Kit lens and wide angle attachment. Switch to manual focus OR it wont find an image to shoot a pic. And dont forget about the (lens cap) 😊. I wish I would have gone out of the campground since lights at the bathrooms were kinda bright. But there's always next time.
@makatron
5 жыл бұрын
Great content as usual, one thing I did is tape a red gel to my led video lights to have a dimmable option.
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
That's a great tip thanks!
@skatsikas
4 жыл бұрын
This is terrific. You are a great communicator (and funny!)
@iqueque
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for such a clear and useful tutorial.
@rob3r7jr
5 жыл бұрын
Loved the video! I started following this channel some months ago, and I've seen how you're groing in the editing and in the way that you speak! In this video I was felt that I was hearing and old friend talking about one of our favourite subjects! Tku very much!
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
So nice of you to say thank you so much 😊📷🎉
@paulgilbert4
5 жыл бұрын
Dang I didn’t know that this was possible with mft system! Great tutorial!
@SidneyPratt
4 жыл бұрын
You did an excellent presentation, thanks. Cheers.
@RaMGoN
5 жыл бұрын
Hi Emily. I usually use the 7.5 Laowa that you recommend, as you saw in the instagram photo that you liked about startrails, it is a great objective for astrophotography, with another interesting feature, it is rectilinear. It is not the cheapest, but not the most expensive, it all depends on the quality of the photo you pursue and how you say the use you are going to give it so that it is worth your purchase. Very good recommendation.
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
Yes I'd love to have one myself! That it isn't a fisheye is probably one of the reasons why it is quite a bit more expensive than the 7artisans equivalent. You make magic with your Laowa!
@liluyvon
4 жыл бұрын
Great, very helpful to get an idea how to get started and nicely presented 😃
@yanbuckvibes
5 жыл бұрын
One of the best tutorials👍🏼
@anibalibanezrisso6248
4 жыл бұрын
Great video! And very spontaneous too.
@EzzaLeo
4 жыл бұрын
This was really helpful, thank you for it.
@whothetechknows
5 жыл бұрын
Very cool. I'll have to try this soon. Thanks again for the video.
@steveabner
9 ай бұрын
Would deepsky astrophotography be possible with a m43? Would love to see you give it a try.
@deshaggy3146
4 жыл бұрын
Das war mal sehr netter Vortrag... schon lange nicht mehr so gegrinst 😁👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻... und gute Tipps 👍🏻👍🏻
@LWJCarroll
5 жыл бұрын
Hello Emily and anyone else... in case you dont already know...if you are going to be in NZ check out @iangriffin on Twitter as he is British Astronomer who moved here for the southern night skies and is the Director I think it is, of the Dunedin Museum...very good 360 theater there too.... He posts his astro photos on his Twitter feed and also the ones on the Aurora Australis which is seen pretty easily from this area of NZ.....He goes just Nth of Dunedin to an inlet with a small wharf and gets amazing astro and Aurora photos.... We also have Dark Sky areas in the Mackenzie Basin district Sth Island, Great Barrier Island and Lake Tekapo (Telescopes there on Mt John Observatory..BTW too. Hot Pools there too... There is a Japanese Astronomer there who does brilliant astro time lapses .) Hope this helps some one who may be visiting New Zealand Regards Laurie
@neilk.astrophotography7590
5 жыл бұрын
Brilliant work.Thank you for sharing :D
@destroyerxd4499
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing!
@danzbeard
5 жыл бұрын
Astrophotography is therapeutic. 😌 btw a red light is clutch, great advice.
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
Absolutely! I definitely have learnt this the hard way. I think I'm going to buy a red headlamp next
@danzbeard
5 жыл бұрын
Micro Four Nerds that’s exactly what I have; a relatively inexpensive energizer headlamp (315 lumens for $25USD I’m sure you can still find a better deal than that) that shoots both regular and red light. I’m looking forward to learning more about stacking. Thank you for the info! Cheers
@prabhakarrao4922
2 жыл бұрын
Many thanks good video. What M43 camera do you use? Really appreciate your humility. Wish you great success.
@rofferdal
5 ай бұрын
Great video. Is the Lumix 14mm f2.5 lens totally unusable for amateur astrophotography? It seems to be within the parameters, even if not ideal.
@sjaz556
5 жыл бұрын
Excellent!
@gedheaton1415
5 жыл бұрын
Enjoyed that Emily,great stuff,I'm a bit confused though how the stacking works in so much as If you dont change anything,wont you just have 10 exactly the same shots,apart from introducing star trails due to the earths movement?. Great stuff matey ,pls keep them coming.
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
So glad you enjoyed the video 😁 so the software aligns the stars (or you do it manually in photoshop) and it then works out which parts of the image is noise and which parts are stars. The noise spots will remain in the same places no matter what you shoot, because it's coming from the sensor rather than the scene. So with multiple exposures the software can see the reoccurring patterns from the sensor noise. it gets rid of the stuff we don't want and cleans the image up. Basically magic ☺️📷🎉 i hope that made sense I'm not very good at explaining it!
@Sergiosvm
5 жыл бұрын
Tokina 11-16 mm could be good too. Turns into an 8mm 2.0 with viltrox speedbooster. I'm looking for pixelpeep comparison between that and the laowa lens
@sykotic102
3 жыл бұрын
Great video..kind of a newbie to this and looking to dabble in this myself and on a budget too, found the canon mount version of this on Amazon with next day delivery as mft version seems to ship outside of uk, my question is with the correct mount converter will I get away with using the canon mount one with just the same results as the mft mount out the box? As its manual focus it's not going to communicate with camera anyways? Guessing the lens is identical apart from mounts? Cheers enjoy your videos
@benwedgwood1766
2 жыл бұрын
I saw Ravenscar!!!!!!!
@tga240
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the great video! I'm looking at trading in my full frame kit for M43, mainly to not have as much weight to carry hiking. I've dabbled in a bit of astrophotography and the biggest question I had remaining was how would M43 go for astro. I know it's not going to be as good as full frame, but now I know it'll be good enough for me with some stacking.
@bon3s994
3 жыл бұрын
How do i tell what size my lens is???
@alanneilson6811
5 жыл бұрын
This is something I have been wanting to try for a bit and this has given me the inspiration to get out there wasn't to sure about lens think I will try with my 15 mm and maybe my 7.5 Samyang even if it a lot slower at 3.5 then see where I go from there 12 mm f2?
@stevey500
3 жыл бұрын
What I found unfortunate is that both olympus and panasonic built in intervalometer modes will ONLY begin counting the time between shots after the exposure completes. So, even with noise reduction disabled, a time lapse with 30 second intervalometer and 25 second exposures will be nearly a minute between exposures no matter what. Olympus got back with me and flat out said this is just how it is and an external intervalometer is the only way around it.
@MicroFourNerds
3 жыл бұрын
I’m not sure if I understand - if I’m shooting 30 second exposures, I set the timelapse interval to 35 seconds, giving 5 seconds between exposures, so it goes off every 35 seconds
@stevey500
3 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds This is via using the an external intervalometer or the internal? The internal is plagued with a problem than turns your intervals into your set time + shutter speed, unfortunately. It starts counting at the end of an exposure rather than the beginning. I discussed this with Olympus and the short answer is “use an external intervalometer.”
@MicroFourNerds
3 жыл бұрын
@@stevey500 I’ve just timed this because i started second guessing myself but I use the timelapse feature and it works perfectly. I just timed a 30 second exposure and a 35 second interval and there was 5 seconds between the shot as i intended
@stevey500
3 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds interesting! What camera body? I cannot achieve the same results with my Olympus em1 mkii
@MicroFourNerds
3 жыл бұрын
@@stevey500 all lumix to be fair! I’ve tried it on the gh5, g100, s5, and s1 and it works fine 😊 I’m not sure I ever gave it a spin on my Pen F
@Ekuahx
5 жыл бұрын
The Laowa is a great lens, however i just can't justify using that kind of money on a manual-only lens, meaning I can't use it as freely for other stuff besides astrophotography. For this reason I went for the Olympus 12mm f2 on black friday with additional cashback bonus, so I got it for the same price as the Samyang 12mm f2, which is just ridiculous. The lens is fantastic and more versatile than the Lawao in my opinion. For a wider FOV I just stitch multiple images together, but I will probably go for the Laowa at some point for some added versatility.
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
Excellent! You definitely got yourself a bargain and I know what you mean about manual focus lenses, they can sometimes be limiting
@55whiplash
5 жыл бұрын
I'm a 4/3's newbie, whats the best value now for a still photographer. I'd also like to use my old manual focus OM lenses from my old OM-1 with some kind of speed booster like I do now with my Sony Nex-6. Thanks, your video's are very informative.
@nickwood6139
2 жыл бұрын
Good video I see that the Laowa now do a auto aperture model, my question is in your opinion which is better for astrophotography the manual one or newer auto aperture version or no difference? Only asking as very new to astrophotography
@MicroFourNerds
2 жыл бұрын
For astrophotography either would be fine as you’re shooting in full manual mode anyway. If you’d like to use the lens for other photography genres then auto aperture is always handy!
@paznit
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks very much for such an informative, and humorous video! A couple of questions from me. 1) Is there an ideal aperture you want to aim for? I'm guessing deeper DOF, therefore, smaller aperture, at a longer shutter speed? Is there a limit? (ie don't shoot above f/8?) I'm shooting an 8-18mm, so nothing above 30sec exposure. 2) When light painting, just to clarify, are you saying you should / need only to do this with single exposures? Therefore, no light painting for multiple exposures? 3) I don't use Lightroom, but use Luminar, do you know if it also has a stacking tool? Many thanks in advance, keep up the great content!
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
Hi! So for aperture, we need as much light as possible so always as wide open as the lens allows. All the images in the video were at 2.8. For light painting the foreground, definitely for one frame exposures, but it's also helpful if you're stacking your photos too because there will always be one "main" photo in the stack which makes your foreground look good. I go through some techniques in part two of this video 😊 And to my knowledge Luminar doesn't stack unfortunately, you'd need either photoshop, or starry landscape stacker (cheap on Mac) or Sequator (free for Windows woo!) have a look at part two for a demo on which software might be best for your needs
@ProSpeedflying
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the review! Will I get cleaner pictures with pana 12mm 1.4 or oly 17 1.2 lenses? I don't care too much about super wide angle.
@jerseyhovidea
4 жыл бұрын
awesome as always! Im using my Lumix G7 that makes me think if it´s good idea to use HDR function in order to stack?
@davidjd123
3 жыл бұрын
would the gh5 be a good upgrade from the G7? or is there something in between the two i should get?
@JoeMaranophotography
5 жыл бұрын
The funny faces at the end of your sentences cracked me up 😂😂😂
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
I had some brill out takes from this one 😂 too many numbers involved!
@JoeMaranophotography
5 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds 😊😊😊
@Chaos_unrefined
Жыл бұрын
Hey. Which star app do you use? I've downloaded a few but can't figure out how they work! Yours looks so simple
@MicroFourNerds
Жыл бұрын
For tracking the Milky Way core I use Photo Pills. To see the constellations and find Polaris I’m currently using Star Guide on iPhone 😊
@Paul_anderson_creative
4 жыл бұрын
Not 'divide that number by 500' (FF focal length) BUT 'divide 500 BY that number'...
@minimalistica01
Жыл бұрын
Hi! What about Samyang 7.5mm f/3.5 UMC Fisheye for astro, what do you think? 😊
@MicroFourNerds
Жыл бұрын
I think that would be a good option!
@yassassinfo
3 жыл бұрын
9-18mm F4.0-5.6 is too slow for astrophotograpy?
@MicroFourNerds
3 жыл бұрын
I would say so yes, without a star tracker. I think the images would be quite noisy unfortunately
@heykinan
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much, this video gives me hope.. i have plan to switch from aps-c to mft, but i'm afraid that i will not be able to do astrophotography with mft camera.. just want to make sure, can i apply this astrophotography technique from your video into the Lumix GX9?
@MicroFourNerds
4 жыл бұрын
Absolutely it will work in exactly the same way 😊 best of luck with it!
@heykinan
4 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds yay!! thank you so much for your time answering this.. 😊
@shanehertzog9311
2 жыл бұрын
I have a Panasonic Lumix S1R. It has the stock 24-105mm lens. What settings would you recommend? Thanks
@MicroFourNerds
2 жыл бұрын
At 24mm you should get 20 seconds (using the 500 rule) before your stars start to blur. So f4, 24mm, 20 seconds exposure, and as high iso as you dare. Maybe try iso4000 as a starting point 😊
@shanehertzog9311
2 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds thanks!
@paznit
5 жыл бұрын
How to you suggest to focus in the dark? Just go to infinity? Or another method? Many thanks!!
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
Using focus peaking can really help, especially when paired with magnification on your screen. But if in doubt try a test shot at infinity and have a pixel peep before committing 😊
@chimkencatto9444
5 жыл бұрын
can i use my prime lens? i only have 50mm 😅
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
You can you'd just need to use a shorter exposure time
@chimkencatto9444
5 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds Thanks! I will try it!
@pauliui78
5 жыл бұрын
Great video. What software do you use for stacking? Or do i have to wait for another video? :)
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
It's all in the next video but Sequator for Windows and Starry Landscape Stacker for Mac 😁🎉
@zer0mhz
5 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds noooo ! spoiler ! ;) i can’t wait for this next video
@Osamakvlogs
5 жыл бұрын
❤️❤️
@vk4244
5 жыл бұрын
Hi! Great tutorial! One question about the Noise reduction: There's the Color Profile Noise Reduction that you can set between -5 to +5 and the Long Exposure Noise Reduction (which is automatically activated at shutter speeds longer than 1 sec). Do you turn that one off too? If I do that, I'll get a lot of hot pixels, not just regular noise. It would be great if I could switch it off for stacked images because this noise reduction will take as long as the used shutter speed...so 30 sec exposure + 30 sec NR = 60 sec for a single image.
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
Off for images you intend to stack/timelapses, to save the time as to say. Just remember to take a few dark frames to eliminate those hot pixels. And on for single frames can help 😊 thanks so much for watching !
@vk4244
5 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds But you keep the "Color profile NR" to zero or also set it to -5? If I take pics for a timelapse....How do you get rid of the hot pixels? Also stack them? Stack each pic with one dark frame?
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
V K with timelapse you’re stuck with the hot pixels unfortunately unless you leave enough space between frames for the in camera noise reduction to take place, but that would likely result in not the best timelapse
@RamonAnthonio
5 жыл бұрын
Very informative video! I've got one question though; If you shoot to stack your images, why don't you use a shorter shutter speed? Would the stars not have moved slightly if you shoot, say 10 images at 30 sec shutter speed? Or is this automatically corrected in the stacking app you mentioned? Okay, those were technically three questions :)
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
The stacking software will compensate and keep them all in the same place. It's magic 😁 I go through the technique in the second video if you want to see it in action!
@RamonAnthonio
5 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds Awesome, thanks! Hope to shoot my first astro shots soon when the night sky is clear :)
@evenaicantfigurethisout
5 жыл бұрын
do you reckon this is possible with the 8-18 at 8mm f2.8?
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
Absolutely, that would be a good setup for Astro
@InertiaEffect
5 жыл бұрын
Opinions on the new Olympus em1x?
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
I'm not overly wowed just yet tbh! It seems unnecessarily bulky and expensive. But I am intrigued to see more test footage etc
@rebbel67
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this! What was the name of the stacking software you talked about?
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
I'll cover it fully in the next part, but Sequator for Windows and Starry Landscape Stacker. Really user friendly and can really clean up your astro photos 😊
@rebbel67
5 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds Great, looking forward to that episode. Thanks a bunch ✌️
@jd5787
2 жыл бұрын
Hi! Are the calculations the same for M43 and FF cameras? I have a GH5ii + 10-25mm f/1.7 and a Nikon d800 + 15-30mm f/2.8. Would the calculations be the same at say 15mm? Thank you
@MicroFourNerds
2 жыл бұрын
So it is calculated by the full frame equivalent, so if you have a 15mm mft lens, with its 2x crop factor, it would be 30mm. so 500 divided by 30 equals a 15 second shutter time. Hope that helps!
@jd5787
2 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds great thanks! Is it the same for ISO or it only applies to focal length due to the crop factor? (I assume that my 10-25 f/1.7 M43 = 20-50 f/3.4 FF equivalent in which case : wouldn't it be better to use my 11-16 f/2. 8 + a speedbooster ?)
@MicroFourNerds
2 жыл бұрын
@@jd5787 the wider and faster the better but I reckon with how sharp that 10-25 is it’ll be great for astro on the wide end!
@jd5787
2 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds got it! Thanks! Got to give it a go soon then! Thank you
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
Hope this was helpful! Any questions just leave a comment and I'll try my best to answer them. Timestamps are in the description if you want to skip through. Part 2 is coming next which will go through stacking and editing techniques ☺️🎉📷
@charliepragnell5791
5 жыл бұрын
Micro Four Nerds Really useful vid Emily - I’ve always wanted to give this a bash, so this really helps. :)
@RaMGoN
5 жыл бұрын
@@Durio_zibethinus Hi Durio, I´m user of Em-5 Markii and only can say you that Live Composite is magic and incredible mode to startrails, you don´t need stacking photos in post edition.
@alexdownunder8757
5 жыл бұрын
I haven't tried astro with the G9 yet but i've tried turning off the noise reduction and get horrendous colour noise, does the stacking get rid of the colour noise or just the normal noise?
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
Stacking will get rid of colour noise and clean it up a lot
@alexdownunder8757
5 жыл бұрын
@@MicroFourNerds thanks, may give it a try tonight.
@TrevorMcGrathPhotography
5 жыл бұрын
Great video for beginners! even on the bra tip ;)
@Wayne_Farrow
5 жыл бұрын
Would the 7artisans lens work for night timelapses?
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
Yes all the ones in this video were taken with that lens 😊
@Wayne_Farrow
5 жыл бұрын
Ordered 😊 think I'm addicted..
@willnotbetracked8222
5 жыл бұрын
I like to keep my hands warm doing Astro. I'll have to try and remember the bra trick! I'll just need a bra with a nice hot woman inside it!😀
@MicroFourNerds
5 жыл бұрын
Part two on editing here: kzitem.info/news/bejne/paKkvHqBfaxnn5g
@sooty271159
4 жыл бұрын
this is a brilliant tute , all i need now is a camera, nicely presented, even for an old fart like myself, KEEP THE INFO COMING
@pavelperina7629
Жыл бұрын
I just experimented with it last month and tried to write blog article to avoid making the same mistakes next year: * 500 rule is (in theory, with perfect lenses) not sufficient with current high megapixels camera, star trail might be already roughly five pixels long. * you need to experiment with iso, exposure and aperture. f1.7/20mm is pretty good except of vignetting. But other lenses may suffer from coma abberation and astigmatism, making stars in the image corner look sort of like white birds. This might be pretty annoying and much worse issue than five pixels long star trails. It's likely better to use f2.8 instead of f2 and double time and/or iso (serious limitation of fuji x100v) * it's great if your raw editor (e.g. RawTherapee) can use dark frames to compensate for noise and use few of them. * it's good to experiment with noise floor level at different ISOs and time. If you do light painting, you may shut one eye so it stays adopted or just do it slowly with dim light.
@BuildingByFaith
3 жыл бұрын
Do know if anyone has used the Voigtlander 10.5mm f/0.95? It costs about 2x the Laowa.
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