at 14:30 removing the inner door. Use a set of good pliers and bend those 4 small tabs upwards and remove the door from the shaft. Leave the shaft in, and it lessons the chance of busting or cracking the case. Just bend the tabs back down on re-install.
@edvanbrabant4424
Жыл бұрын
Great video! My daughter and I are rebuilding her 68 coupe, and have reached the heater box (with a/c) stage. We bought the car as a giant puzzle and we are re-assembling/cleaning as we go. The door with the "snake-like" shaft has both ends cracked/broken in the fiberglass housing. Looks like someone manhandled it in disassembly. Can I epoxy the plastic grommets that hold the shaft back in place? The damage is not extensive and I think there is enough substance there to hold it...........
@TheGT350Garage
Жыл бұрын
Use a Dremel tool, V the cracks about 1/16” deep and drill a small 1/16-3/32 hole at the end of the crack. Lightly rough the surface on either side of the crack 1/2-5/8” out with 80-grit. Tape the inside of the box and apply the epoxy. If you fill the original holes you can re-drill them easily enough. In the beginning of my career I would have used fiberglass for the repair and added woven glass patches, but good 2-part liquid epoxies like J-B MarineWeld or Permatex Underwater Marine Epoxy are both designed for use on fiberglass and exposure to water, heat and cold. A little paint will hide their existence after the repair is made, and they will be a permanent repair.
@edvanbrabant4424
Жыл бұрын
@@TheGT350Garage Thank you!!
@williamwimmer8115
7 ай бұрын
What's the sanding pad you're using? Looks like it works a lot better than the ones I get.
@TheGT350Garage
7 ай бұрын
It’s a 3M Scotch Brite pad, typically you can only get green or red ones at big box stores, I have a variety of them from Grainger, you can also check with automotive paint stores and welding supply stores locally or order them online.
@williamwimmer8115
7 ай бұрын
@@TheGT350Garage Thanks! I was using some cheapos, ill try the 3M next time. I pulled my box apart and there's 0 pitting but much more rust than you had. Went ahead and soaked all metal parts overnight in evapo-rust and they look brand new again.
@TheGT350Garage
7 ай бұрын
@williamwimmer8115 the dark red scotch brand pads are excellent and about equivalent to an 80-120 grit sand paper, just easier on the hands and the parts. I’d highly recommend a self-etching primer on bare metal, it bonds to the metal better, then sealing it with a uniform coat of paint seals the part and should last 20-30 years or more as long as you don’t neglect a leaking heater core in the future or allow unwanted moisture to get into the box and stick around in there.
@MichaelDavid-p9y
Жыл бұрын
What do you put on the extended heater core where it passes through the firewall now that the pipe is smaller than the hose?
@TheGT350Garage
Жыл бұрын
You can sleeve the tubes in a piece of heater hose, or slide the hoss further onto the tubes until they pass through the firewall.
@CarsonT01
Жыл бұрын
Did you use normal Rustoleum primer and paint or the high temp stuff? Currently redoing my heaterbox and just as I finished priming my last internal piece with the Rustoleum self etching primer did I think about the temperature rating. Back of the can says the stuff is good for 200F and I'd expect the heater core to get up to just about 200 while in the box. Debating whether I want to strip it and put higher temp paint or leave it seems like in your video and another video I watched you guys both used normal primer and paint so I am thinking it'll be okay.
@TheGT350Garage
Жыл бұрын
You don’t need high-temperature paint for the heater box, the temps will not exceed your highest coolant temperature.
@richardrush9326
2 жыл бұрын
Spend a little more than $20 for a gallon of Evapo-rust to soak the metal components. They'll come out looking new with no trace of rust
@TheGT350Garage
2 жыл бұрын
Not entirely necessary, but for some it’s easier to spend a little and use the chemicals than to do a little hand prep work and refinish. I try to avoid the chemicals these days because I’ve become sensitive to many of them. After 28 years of chemical exposure my allergies had gotten very bad and I have some notable health related things from them. Staying clear of direct contact and inhalation of petrochemical fuels, solvents and cleaners as much as possible I feel better and have almost eradicated my allergies.
@richardrush9326
2 жыл бұрын
@@TheGT350Garage That's why I like Evaporust. You can get it on your skin, even in your eyes, 100% non-toxic, no solvents, fumes or vapors and completely environmentally safe. Likely less risky than sanding rust without a mask and inhaling the dust particles
@robo2901
2 жыл бұрын
Is this with or without air conditioning?
@TheGT350Garage
2 жыл бұрын
On a 65-68 Mustang this is without A/C or with an under-dash add-on air conditioner. On factory A/C cars the process is basically the same but you have to take a few more steps to address the evaporator and an extra blend door.
@phoenixblack1220
3 жыл бұрын
No offense but a $250,000 car, and a mediocre spray bomb job? Sorry don’t mean to be critical, but that is a real deal Shelby.
@TheGT350Garage
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching. Sadly the market on the later 1966 GT350 isn’t nearly that strong, it might be worth that in another decade or so. Please keep in mind, it’s been 33 years since it was last apart, and a shaker can is what a typical enthusiast will have access to. The engine will be coming out in late August, and it will be getting a very high performance 289 in the Fall. The completed engine will be sprayed with a spray gun using a zinc based primer and an enamel tractor paint in the correct Ford Corporate Blue. That process alone will be the subject of a video.
@phoenixblack1220
3 жыл бұрын
@@TheGT350Garage copy that. Please take care of that car! The original Shelby Mustangs are like cars assembled by Gods hands and deserve all the love and attention they can. Looks like you have a really nice car there. If you have the funds, invest in a small Harbor Freight sandblaster to gets at some of your smaller parts.
@TheGT350Garage
3 жыл бұрын
I have a large sandblasting cabinet for parts, but the car itself is a rust free California car so there’s not much to sandblast. Specific original parts that would matter in the event of a concourse restoration will be retained, but this car will not receive a concourse restoration from me. I plan to do what CS would do and make it go like hell, I’ll be putting my own touches on it and using the car as it should be used, this will not be a trailered show car, it will be a very competent driver’s car.
@phoenixblack1220
3 жыл бұрын
@@TheGT350Garage awesome! I am a Camaro guy, but I love Shelby’s. I also scale model and as fate would have it, just completed a 1966 GT350H and a 1965 GT350. Closest I will come to a real Shelby in this market lol.
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