As for screw extractors, you should use both sides of a bit with reverse (counter-clockwise, unscrewing) direction of a drill - check the flute directions out: they should bite in the screw and pull it out, not stroke it and drive it in. It is noticeable that in video it is done the wrong way at all times except at the end of video.
@TheKevinFanClub526
Жыл бұрын
That's what it seems like to me as well.
@micaelsilva
Жыл бұрын
I was going to say exactly that. I have this kit and really works like that: drill clockwise, unscrew counter clockwise
@JakobBerry
Жыл бұрын
I would also think you would have to be a bit more careful about it. Try to get it to bite before easing the screw out. Not just go full speed. What the video shows looks like user error to me.
@cdsmith
Жыл бұрын
I've used these kind of extractor bits quite a bit and they work well if you use them properly. In addition to what he other replies said, don't wobble the drill bit, that just makes the cone shape your creating in the screw head too big for the extractor bit. And when you use the extractor bit put as much pressure as you dare on it and turn the drill as slow as it will go. You want the extractor to have a chance to bite in. If you just jam the trigger to full speed you just ruin the extractor bit by dulling the edges.
@JakobBerry
Жыл бұрын
@@cdsmith That's just how I imagined it was supposed to work.
@zUltra3D
Жыл бұрын
Please don't stop making these videos, they're really fun to watch
@haraldhechler3557
Жыл бұрын
And they are really helpful, too. Because you can't get real reviews on Aliexpress etc. and often those chinese electronics come without a useable manual. So I even put up with the "cwappy" English, even if it hurts sometimes to listen.
@Humbulla93
Жыл бұрын
@@haraldhechler3557his english is still better than for example Military Aviation History's english
@drtbantha
Жыл бұрын
The T connectors are a knockoff of the 3M T-Tap - which comes in multiple sizes for different wire gauges. If they’re using the same color scheme, the blue should be for 14-16 gauge wires. I mostly see those (and the related Scotchlok splices) used in automotive or similar applications where you want to minimize the exposure of the original wire to oxygen and water.
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the feedback
@jimurrata6785
Жыл бұрын
Scotchlok's are rightly reviled in the automotive upfitter world. (at least those that do first responder equipment) I can't think of a better way to cause wiring system failure than using those damn things.
@chaos.corner
Жыл бұрын
@@jimurrata6785 Used them on my first car in the 80s. They're trash.
@scania9786
Жыл бұрын
@@greatscottlab I used similar T-connector for low voltage construction site illumination. Just hang up the twisted positive and negative feeding wire and use two connectors to hook into them and hang lamps where needed. Lamps ofc came with female connector preinstalled. Both feeding wire and connectors are probably considered consumables in that instance.
@inothome
Жыл бұрын
And the 3M are junk too. And have been for 20 years or more since they came out.
@facticaltuckwit5517
Жыл бұрын
The screw extractors are designed to be run in reverse and **slow speed** (I am a mechanical engineer and these items are invaluable)
@qlum
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for poiting that out, my intuition already told me the way they were used was wrong.
@tnt123skeleton9
Жыл бұрын
Yeah having used them before, slow and easy makes it go alot smoother
@jimurrata6785
Жыл бұрын
Drilling straight in, for the properly sized hole, is also crucial for success. (You can see Scott wobbling and reaming the poor thing around) The original Alden Grabit screw extractors work almost every time for me.
@facticaltuckwit5517
Жыл бұрын
@@qlum Yeah, I normally gently tap the extractor into place to make it bite that little more and use a spanner not a drill or impact driver for the extraction. @greatscottlab would you be willing to retest?
@multiplysixbynine
Жыл бұрын
Yup the technique is crucial. I had a similar experience to Scott’s my first time until I got the hang of it. It’s a useful tool when used correctly. It’s important to drill a clean hole in the screw head for the extractor to bite into.
@TECHNDJ
Жыл бұрын
The last module you showed is a testing equipment board for testing modules (ie USB Audio boards, Pre-Amp boards, etc) which will also have a remote control bundled during packaging. USB audio boards work with 5V common, but Pre-amp boards work at 5,12 or even 24 V. Thats why they have added an IR tester section so that it would be handy to test those remotes too.😄
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
Good to know. Thanks.
@aninfid
Жыл бұрын
@@greatscottlab BE AWEARE THAT ALL KINDS OF ADS ARE ILLEGAL! COMPLETELY!!!! IF YOU EVER PUT SPONSORED SEGMENTS OR ADS IN VIDEOS YIOUU TRIGGER MY PANICH ATTACKS!!!!! I AM TRIGGERED BY ADS AND I SUFFER!!!!!! WHY DO YOU DO THIS TO ME???????? IT IS ILLEGAL AND I MUST TAKE LEGAL ACTIONS!!!!!!!!! YOU MUST KNOW THAT LEGAL PENALTY FOR ADS AND SPONSORED CONTENT IS DEATH PENALTY!!!!!
@nimoy007
Жыл бұрын
Typical eBay/Aliexpress product! Has weird features because it is built for a particular use case that needs them, but us geeks will never use. Doesn't matter, we love seeing all this weird and wonderful stuff!
@riccardosacchetti
Жыл бұрын
@@nimoy007yep, but he's from German!
@NDMCN
Жыл бұрын
I also wonder if this board have short circuit protection, etc like a real bench power supply. Because if there is it is really really cheap for it's capabilities. And would be perfect for diy power supply.
@the_beefy1986
Жыл бұрын
For those of us on the decidedly hobby side of electronics, that last module looks like a great value!
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
Definitely!
@Alacritous
Жыл бұрын
I have a couple 250 watt ATX power supplies that I bought for another project that are smaller than a pack of playing cards that would work great with that. The PS takes 12 volts in and is a 250 watt ATX power supply with 24 pins and a 4 pin mother board connector and 2 accessory connectors. Just imagine the ATX power connector with a densely packed circtuit board connected directly to it.
@-MrDontCare-
Жыл бұрын
Oh yes. I have two different once ow those and they work great. This new one with usb is also on my list now!
@rwatson2609
Жыл бұрын
@7:10 I liked the time machine stuck on rewind.
@HodgePodgeProducts
Жыл бұрын
Only issue is that I wish they would have added inputs for the CPU or PCIe power connectors. The 24 pin connector alone doesn't carry much current on the +12v rail. You're only looking at like 150w max there.
@AlexanderBelikov
Жыл бұрын
Regarding battery 5v PCB. I used one and I'm very happy with it. There is a way to keep it on even with small load. There's additional pad on the other side (I believe it's called Key). It needs to be pulled low (I believe) to turn board on. In such way the board will be up while key is pulled to required polarity.
@jujubies2629
Жыл бұрын
FYI. The battery charger module has a "key" pad you can set low on a microcontroller or ground to disable the 30s auto cutoff.
@stepheneyles2198
Жыл бұрын
this comment needs to be pinned! I noticed that but thought the word Key referred to the switch next to it. Edit: Although having read the description/Use tutorial on the product page I'm unsure what it is actually used for. Only one way to find out!!
@professionalelectronics3158
Жыл бұрын
I heard that you can "tap" the key to ground for under half a second at an interval that's less than the power-down timeout so that if you want it to power down, you just stop grounding the key and it'll shut off in 30 seconds. Also you can do a "double tap" to the key to force an early shutdown.
@tinkerbot4148
Жыл бұрын
Perhaps using header pins would be a less problematic way to connect your off-board items?
@MutleyTheTechDowg
Жыл бұрын
Hi, I bought the same charger, but it doesn't charge the battery that I connected to it. I measured the current that goes to the battery, and it is around 0.003 amps (basically nothing). Also, when I disconnect the battery, the 4 LEDs won't turn off. It's like a battery is connected to the circuit, but there isn't one. I would really appreciate it if someone could help me with this issue.
@eformance
Жыл бұрын
2 issues: T-tap connectors are generally used by car accessory installers, in those cases the mating ends are usually pre-terminated or pre-stripped, so it really *is* faster to just clamp the *correct* (color matching, red, blue) T-tap to send something like a low current remote signal, or 12v at less than 3A. Second, that ATX power supply trigger doesn't have a load resistor. I've run into ATX supplies that won't turn on without a load, and ideally you should have some sort of load to make the power supply regulate. I would expect a good ATX trigger to have a load resistor, otherwise you can't know what power supply the customer is plugging into it and thus get a bad experience.
@turbo2ltr
Жыл бұрын
The problem with the T-taps is they are junk.. Do NOT use them in a car (or anywhere for that matter). It may work when you first install them, but down the road, they become intermittent causing all kinds of issues depending on what you used it for. Not to mention the unseen damage it does to the wire. Just terrible product all around.
@resneptacle
Жыл бұрын
I mean, it costs three bucks, it's kind-of a you get what you pay for scenario
@Hogscraper
Жыл бұрын
You say that while displays I installed at Home Depots around Cincinnati are still working fine a decade later. TONS of low voltage light setups use something similar where the tap is actually built into the line and you just clamp them on a powered line for an active splice and others I've seen are identical to the ones shown in the video. No idea about vehicle usage but I've never seen a crimp on splice fail in a display or using them at home in low voltage lighting setups. The only real issue is if they're marketed as one size fits all instead of marketed to a specific wire gauge like they were intended. @@turbo2ltr
@RichardBetel
Жыл бұрын
@@Hogscrapercars are an exceptionally difficult environment: you can hit lows of -30C when cold, in winter, and highs of 200C when the engine is fully warmed up. Lots of vibrations, random G-loads, and don’t forget the occasional splash of water from puddles, as well as salt water either because of the environment, or because it is used to treat the roads after a snow storm. Sorta the polar opposite of “non-moving display signs in a temperature controlled store”
@Hogscraper
Жыл бұрын
Low voltage lights cover both indoor and outdoor and literally every single low voltage light ran around our deck and yard uses those connections for splices. I seriously doubt any car in my area has an electrical connection exposed to more water and cold than the ones laying on the ground behind my house. Nice that you not only know so little about those systems yet decided to just ramble on based on your incorrect assumptions. Also weird that you think a single mechanic anywhere is using any form of plastic splice, either the one shown or the one he recommends instead, that is intended to lay on the motor block or even outside the cabin, dashboard or trunk of the car where there there typically isn't water or near boiling temps...@@RichardBetel
@nicenice3355
Жыл бұрын
What I also like about the lipo booster is the 3V undervoltage protection. Almost all other boosters or bms cut off at 2.5V which I think is too low.
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
Oh boy. One feature I did not test. Sorry about that. But thanks for adding the information
@DiverseGreen-Anon
Жыл бұрын
could you maybe test that if you find the time and reply us here? xD @@greatscottlab
@spagamoto
Жыл бұрын
This is fantastic! I recently gave up finding a good protection board on aliexpress because of the scary cutoff voltage. I missed this one because I was looking for ones with USB built in.
@sfdntk
Жыл бұрын
@@spagamoto look for "power bank module", there are dozens and dozens of them with the USB port built in and a bunch of protection features. Bear in mind that they all have a low current cutoff of around 50mA so if you're expecting to use them for low powered applications like a sensor that gathers data once a minute and goes into deep sleep the rest of the time, it won't work. I use them all the time for battery powered projects, very useful indeed.
@BagheeraTube
Жыл бұрын
Really 😳 that's amazing! I hate it when they have 2,5v is there a battery protection board with boost that has 3v low voltage cutoff?
@zedcarr6128
Жыл бұрын
I'm loving these ''Hidden Gems'' videos, please keep this series going. I'm discovering things that I didn't even know I needed. 😃
@MaNNeRz91
Жыл бұрын
The thing with screw and bolt extractors is there's a certain way you need to use them. Otherwise you go round and round in circles. You need a clean hole. A hammer. And then the extractor needs to be turned counter clockwise while still putting pressure on the bit. As soon as it slips. Hammer again.
@baalzevuv4509
Жыл бұрын
Yeah but it still doesn't work. It's just cheap Chinese garbage and waste of money. This cheap screw extractors are just garbage. Had them, tested, they wear off before being able to unscrew one brand new screw screwed with medium torque and blue loctite applied. Same goes to cheap Chinese drills (got few free with some order). Do yourself a favour and avoid such thing at any cost and just grab something better which actually works.
@MaNNeRz91
Жыл бұрын
@@baalzevuv4509 again I haven't had any issues with Cheap Chinese drills albeit the batteries are terrible. I actually had a cheap drill that would out torque my uncles Milwaukee 😂😂 Even cheap tap and die sets I've been lucky with. I have expensive ones too but only for the important stuff
@RachaelSA
Жыл бұрын
"You need a clean hole." - **giggle**
@MaNNeRz91
Жыл бұрын
@@RachaelSA everyone needs a clean hole! 🕳️🫧💧🫧💧
@KevinMcMillan
Жыл бұрын
Would be cool to see a multi part series showing things to do with the LCD module. Basic GUI to control and in pouts and out puts then displaying some sensor data would be awesome. I'm just about to buy one myself to play with. Thanks for the video!
@christophertstone
Жыл бұрын
The extractors: -Will never work if you wobble the drill all over. That hole needs to be a precise size and wobbling will absolutely ruin it. -Only work on _soft_ metals, steel screws aren't soft, brass/bronze/aluminum all work.
@typxxilps
Жыл бұрын
9:47 screw extractors worked for me, but I was drilling much, much slower to get into the head and of cause counterclockwise. It also depends on the kind of screws, stainless steels screws are harder to get out for example.
@javierRC82857
Жыл бұрын
That screw extractor is garbage, I bought the same one to remove a screw from a bicycle brake rotor and they are damaged immediately without generating enough torque
@AlexDD99
Ай бұрын
Yes, this removers work fine, but not with a drill as shown... To remove a damaged screw, you need one thing above all, and that is sensitivity. You don't have this in any way with a cordless screwdriver. Use it with a hand tool and it works as described!
@Cornz38
Жыл бұрын
The wire splitters used to be known as "scotch lock" connectors. Everybody used them in the 80s and 90s for fitting stereos to cars, alarms, cd radios etc. They work for about 6 months until they fail by corroding.
@VilleLiski
Жыл бұрын
Almost looks like when testing the screw extractor that you had the screw extracting tap rotating in clockwise motion? And even if not, the hole was too big to start with and the tap was bottoming out and not capable of grabbing the screw. Could be that the exctractor is just plainly bad, but to me it looked like that the hole in the screw could have been too big in the first place.
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
I tried pretty much every possible technique when it comes to this thing. Nothing worked.
@pault6533
Жыл бұрын
Please note that the linked seller is currently listing the ATX adapter board as a variable power supply “1.8V-10.8V(ADJ)”, however this feature does not exist! On the ATX adapter board, the white PSON GND 2P connector is for connecting an external switch for switching the power supply on without needing to use the onboard toggle.
@666neoselen
Жыл бұрын
the screw extractor isn't meant to go full speed but rather full torque slow speed. you have to push it against the screw so the reverse teeth will bite into the metal then extract the screw
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
Yep. Tried it all. Didn't work.
@yevgennegvey4021
Жыл бұрын
For the 4.2v/5v module. There is same modules for the same price but with Type-C soldered available, they come with usb a unsoldered and can be used right away, no extra connector is required.
@KC-yk5xe
Жыл бұрын
Those 5v booster were really great but the variant with the IP5306 chip in it are way more reliable than the other variants
@minus3dbintheteens60
Жыл бұрын
With those, can you for example program it so like turn on charge at 3.9v and off at 4.2v? I'm using a TP4056 in the car and it wastes so much energy just constantly charging an 18650 that's hooked up to my tablet that is turned off
@alydev23
7 ай бұрын
I bought that ATX power supply board, been looking for a new one. I had a really cheap one lying around for ages, but when I went to use it recently somehow I blew two of the fuses on it and I really don't know if I can trust it. This new one comes with an acrylic case and six USB ports, 15 day shipping, I'm in love. Thanks for finding it, this is my new favourite series.
@ahmadhasan3258
Жыл бұрын
the damaged screw thing can work if you have a drill bit to drill out a bit of the head of the screw and then use the other side of the extractor to take it out. it is an inconvenience but works in a pinch
@RodrigoGomes90
Жыл бұрын
Believe in him, I already bought this kit, I've already tested it and the material is rubbish. The metal is completely soft and comes apart without causing any damage to the screw. If you have this kit and it works, you were probably lucky enough to buy one made from quality metal.
@AB-pb8oo
Жыл бұрын
It is worth mentioning that ATX PSUs are designed to output the rated power only if both +5V and +12V rails are loaded. If you have a 500W PSU that claims to deliver 250W on each of these lines, it doesn't mean that it would give you that if the other line is idle. So if you need to pull a large current from one, hook up some dummy load, like a lightbulb to the other.
@RottenFishbone
Жыл бұрын
Kinda looked like an infomercial failing on purpose with the easy-outs. Cheaping out is definitely not a good idea when it comes to bits but if you use them with patience and precision (keep the hole as tight as possible i.e. no wiggling around) and using the correct rotation directions then you can certainly save parts. I'd also test it in metal, not wood, as you're likely to be dealing with machine screws trying to save something expensive, not a 2x4. All that said, even with the best bits following best practice, sometimes they just make it worse. Sometimes you just gotta drill and retap.
@marguskevinsunter
Жыл бұрын
Those T connectors are quite good if you want to tap into wire without breaking it. Especially in security. People will notice when their network cable is cut for minutes until you add Wago connectors Noone will notice if you are tapping in with those T-taps. We used to use similar things in military to tap into lines :)
@kalashnikov_47z
Жыл бұрын
Next video you should make a Photodiode Geiger counter , its a interesting project
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
I can put it on my to do list :-)
@kalashnikov_47z
Жыл бұрын
@@greatscottlab Thanks friend 😀
@putraadriansyah8082
Жыл бұрын
I love the VFD tube displays. They're fast and easy to read. I daily drive a 1988 Cressida that have VFD tube based digital instrument cluster
@EFazy
Жыл бұрын
Hi Scott! Maybe dumb question, but did you use your drill in reverse, while tried the screw remover stuff?
@RodrigoGomes90
Жыл бұрын
Believe in him, I already bought this kit, I've already tested it and the material is rubbish. The metal is completely soft and comes apart without causing any damage to the screw. If you have this kit and it works, you were probably lucky enough to buy one made from quality metal.
@PedroFTeixeira
6 ай бұрын
No he did not. I've used this kit before with moderate success. It works, but the screw can't be very hard to remove.
@itstrysten
Ай бұрын
he actually makes a lot of really stupid mistakes like that. a lot.
@DarkRavenhaft
5 ай бұрын
VFDs are fun, there's a community library somewhere that allows control without the need for the additional backpack, as the built-in controller is fully capable of SPI/UART/I2C. They are commonly used in precision instruments due to their high contrast, broad viewing-angle, longevity (I have a few that have been running almost continuously for >15years), and high refresh rate. The better versions forego the traditional rows of 5x7 symbols and instead have a continuous grid that allows for animations. I have a stack of the older 2-4 line displays but only 1 newer version. Fun fact: the displays normally require 40v to energize. One of the issues they can have is overcurrent. Things may explode.
@RayBellis
Жыл бұрын
If you like VFDs then character OLEDs are a good alternative. They have superb contrast and viewing angle, and work in many devices that use the HD44780 LCD protocol. They used to be real cheap before the pandemic (US$8 for a 16x2 display) but availability is not so good now and prices have gone up, but they're still way cheaper than VFDs.
@DoctorX17
Жыл бұрын
Also more durable... VFDs are best for things like HiFi equipment and microwaves where they're not moving. OLEDs will be less upset about bumps. Plus much lower power consumption
@turbo2ltr
Жыл бұрын
@@DoctorX17 ehh, VFD were used extensively in cars for many many years before LCDs were readily available. They are plenty durable. Cheap OLEDs are prone to burn in unless you plan to write your code to actively minimize it. Definitely not idea for an always-on display.
@DoctorX17
Жыл бұрын
@@turbo2ltr true… fine with shock dampening. But I dunno if I’d put them in handheld projects. And yeah, OLED does have that issue, VFDs can be always on for ages
@chaos.corner
Жыл бұрын
The big problem with VFDs is they eventually lose brightness and become unreadable. That's probably not too bad for these generic ones but for custom ones such as often found in microwaves and hi-fi equipment, this becomes an issue. I'm actually planning on seeing if I can swap some out and use OLED displays instead (obviously this would require some sophisticated microcontroller work).
@RayBellis
Жыл бұрын
@@chaos.corner it depends on the VFD - some are HD44780 compatible. I run a FB group (Music Gear Display Retrofits) focussed on finding new displays for old synths.
@RNMSC
4 ай бұрын
I'd kind of like to see some examples of integrating the ESP32 LCD Board with HomeAssitant, presumably through ESPHome. On a not quite that level of difficulty use, I'd like to turn one into a refigerator/freezer monitor that remembers what units I prefer, and will let me know when the temperature in the freezer is below freezing, and the temperature in the fridge is safe for food storage. I've a propane/electric refrigerator in a camper, with the 'old school' propane/electric option, meaning that all 'electric' does is provide a heat source to initiate the same cooling cycle that the propane burner in the fridge provides. The down side is that when I head to my camper it can be 3 to 5 (or more) hours before the temperature is cold enough to keep things safe. So having a display that I can mount on the wall next to the refrigerator that lets me know what the current temps are in the freezer and fridge compartments would be handy for keeping track of that. My presumption is that a set of 3 Dallas DS18b20 sensors attached to vcc, gnd and a data pin would be sufficient to capture current freezer, fridge, and room temps for display, with a touch button on screen to give historical data with predictions for how long before temperatures are in the safe ranges, and perhaps nice to have features like how the room temperature appears to be affecting the temperature drop, and perhaps a notice if the temps start going up that perhaps it's time to swap out a propane tank, or simply note that the refrigerator isn't keeping up with that 40 degree C temp in the camper.
@martinesproduction
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Scott for this episode! I had a similar experience with screw extractors (completely useless) and cable splitters/connectors (carefully to be used if at all, I used them once, outdoor for 12V with 0.75 mm2 wires, and covered from rain place, also adding some silicone inside)
@motomotomotomot
Жыл бұрын
I personnaly used similar screw extractors once and it worked. There are a few videos on the internet that compares them, I may find a link if you want
@randomexcessmemories4452
Жыл бұрын
I really like that ATX breakout board! Looks super useful.
@kreepykoopa
Жыл бұрын
The T-splitters come in handy for car audio, I have used them many times and have never had an issue. Plus being so small it really helps on where you can T in.
@sofronio.
Жыл бұрын
the 1 dollar battery charger can stay on if you give the key pin a low status from mcu every few seconds. i've bought hundreds of them, all working fine.
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
Awesome. Thanks for the information
@Kyrox2
Жыл бұрын
There are mh-cd42 boards on Ali that have the USB attached as well. The only issue I've had with them is they power off when disconnecting the supply power for a second before switching over to the battery. I'm not sure if that's just an issue with the specific board I got or if it's a function of that chip.
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the feedback :-)
@sofronio.
Жыл бұрын
I can confirm the cutoff
@JanJeronimus
Жыл бұрын
The solar panel meter would be an interesting item for a DIY or buy video.
@faboo3139
Жыл бұрын
Did you set your drill counterclockwise for the extractors?
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
Yep. I tried it every possible way.
@blkhackr
Жыл бұрын
@@greatscottlab were the extractor bits hardened. i have a box store bought version that is hardened and they bite into screws and rip them out with ease. could be a knock off version that skipped steps to get out the factory cheaper.
@datrumpettdudeee
Жыл бұрын
not to be dramatic, but this is probably my favorite series on youtube. please make more of these videos.
@ۥٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴۥ
Жыл бұрын
Every gangsta untill Aliexpress speaker start to diss you in Chinanse
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
Haha
@edwarddesposito4476
Жыл бұрын
That powersupply breakout would be even more amazing if it could also do type-c power delivery and quick charge. The ability to quick charge some mobile device or power a laptop would be useful, and the available power is there just waiting to be tapped.
@chaos.corner
Жыл бұрын
Most laptops are going to want closer to the 20V which would mean a boost circuit. Though my Chromebook was happy charging at a lower voltage (though much slower), my other devices just won't.
@konm08
Жыл бұрын
Wait, why are the comments 4 days old?
@hayleyxyz
Жыл бұрын
Early access for patreons I assume
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
Patreon supporters can watch early ;-)
@pragadeeshsv6596
Жыл бұрын
😂
@bigcatdiary08
Жыл бұрын
We live in a society
@henrikostrov482
Жыл бұрын
The solder pads are used with a regular pinheadder so u could integreat it into your project easyly ig
@zaprodk
Жыл бұрын
I feel VFD's has gotten real expensive recently, probably because of the "retro" trend for stuff like Nixie tubes and similar tech. 46 Euro is just downright crazy for such a small display TBH.
@mfbfreak
Жыл бұрын
Afaik there is only one Japanese company left making the alphanumeric vfds, so that increases price
@zaprodk
Жыл бұрын
Which company? ISE Itron? Futaba stopped making VFD's.@@mfbfreak
@ollie-d
Жыл бұрын
Instantly bought a few of those LCD screens and ATX bench supply breakouts. Those are such good deals it's insane
@sfdntk
Жыл бұрын
Bear in mind that those little lithium power bank boards that simultaneously charge an 18650 and produce a steady 5v output invariably have a low current cutoff that sits around 50mA, so if you're planning on using it for low power applications you're going to have a very bad time. It's quite literally impossible to find one that doesn't have a low current cutoff unfortunately, believe me I've tried. In that circumstance it's much better to just use a small boost or buck board to convert the 4.2v from the 18650 to 3.3v or 5v depending on your needs, and design your project to have a replaceable cell so you can just take out the empty cell and stick in a freshly charged one as necessary. For low powered applications you'll only have to change your cell every few months at the most, so it's not a bad trade off.
@procrastinator1842
Жыл бұрын
Somebody above mentioned that on thst particular board there is a pad on the pcb to disable low current power off. Your prayers are answered.
@sfdntk
Жыл бұрын
@@procrastinator1842 Not quite, these MH-CD42 power bank modules don't have a method for fully disabling the low current cutoff, they just have a "key" pin you can pull to ground (eg, with a tactile button) in order to tell it to turn back on after it's turned itself off. You can't just pull it to ground permanently and have it constantly produce a 5v output - believe me, I've used these exact modules in dozens and dozens of projects at this point, and if you try and bypass the cutoff by tying the key pin to ground all that happens is after a minute or so the module switches itself off again and won't turn back on until the key pin is allowed to go high.
@procrastinator1842
Жыл бұрын
@@sfdntk Damn.
@nometutentegiapreso
Жыл бұрын
So disappointed about the drill bits, I thought they would work and save me from my stripped screws nightmare 😢
@alaricsnellpym
Жыл бұрын
I couldn't write yep from the video... He did realise you need to run the spiral extractor bit slowly and in reverse, right?
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
@@alaricsnellpym Yes. Trust me, I tried it in every way possible. Maybe German screws are just too hard
@nickye2864
Жыл бұрын
Seeing this 2 days after I ordered it😢
@QuockhanhPham20
Жыл бұрын
@@greatscottlabyou can try drill that screw heard by outside high quality drill bits instead that trash bit heard
@MohitSharmaxp
Жыл бұрын
Wait hold on it is 4 days old video?
@MariusEidem
Жыл бұрын
The T-splitters are great for debugging prototypes. I use them all the time, just clip on where you need them and tape over when you are done
@greatscottlab
Жыл бұрын
Hmmmm Ok.
@alessiosem2238
Жыл бұрын
Love this series of Aliexpress hidden gems.
@radekhladik7895
Жыл бұрын
Word of warning. Do not use the ATX powersupply as lab benchtop powersupply. It seems like it does not have any overcurrent protection, so it can easily fry your board. For portable work I use FNIRSI DC-6something something. I paid cca 35EUR for it and it works fine. The funny thing is that it does not even have built in power source so you must provide your own adapter or USB-C power, but it is small and has the basic lab benchtop power supply features (overcurrent protection, overtemperature protection, on/off button, etc...). It is by no means perfect but better than forcing 50W into short on your board :-)
@superslash7254
11 ай бұрын
That ESP with the screen is fantastic for people who don't live in areas where it's cost feasible to use PCB printing services. If someone were to take a similar approach to power and pinouts and basically just bolt together a decent phone charger, breakout board, and bog standard esp32 into a compact layout they'd wind up sold by the pallet.
@1_Engineer
Жыл бұрын
10:17 I think drill was running in opposite direction then it should be
@JakobDam
2 ай бұрын
Great video! Just a side note - the screw extractors work fine for me. I have the same set, and had a heavily damaged screw in a lock cylinder box that I couldn't get out. These extractors made it possible, and thus I could remove the casing to service the lock cylinder.
@whoknows8225
Жыл бұрын
I really like these kind of videos, toying with random electronics from wherever.. really fun to watch
@riyan_prof
Жыл бұрын
The last module is really a true gem we needed. 👍
@TechsScience
Жыл бұрын
I liked that microcontroller with touch display
@michamaj6290
Жыл бұрын
4:05 these are good for tapping into CAN harness etc in your car. You really don't want to cut anything in tight spaces.
@bdhaliwal24
Жыл бұрын
I love these videos of yours. They are like getting a wrapped present each time. I think the LCD display you showed looks really interesting
@KeritechElectronics
Жыл бұрын
Great Scott! These VFDs are loveliness - I'd love to get a 4x20 one for my vacuum tube tester, to make it even more funky than it is now. Thanks for the info on these ESP32 modules with display. That's definitely gonna come in handy for IoT / home automation projects.
@jormungand72
Жыл бұрын
mama always said, life is like a box from ali express. most of the time its cheap junk but it can serve a purpose if you look hard enough.
@SurajGrewal
4 ай бұрын
Those vampire t-tap connectors are great for spies to connect trackers onto vehicles when you can have access to daytime-headlight wires from underneath
@dan2800
Жыл бұрын
for the ATX breakout board I wouldn't go above 15A for 5V, 10-12A for 3,3V and 6-8A on 12V due to connector having 5 wires for 5V 4 for 3,3V and only 2 for 12V
@bhambhole
2 ай бұрын
The ATX breakout board is such a simple clever idea.
@b2gills
Жыл бұрын
The T splitters are actually very useful for adding to an electrical harness in a car without cutting the wire. I would not use it for anything high current, but they were awesome for connecting the backup light wire to my dashcam/backup cam. I did not want to cut the existing wire, and I wanted it to be removable. Your complaint that there is only one size is unfounded as there are at least three sizes available. I would recommend adding dielectric grease to the connector before attaching it to the wire.
@Swanicorn
Жыл бұрын
I like that esp32 screen product. I haven't worked with those before but I am imagining some use cases. Like it could be a monitoring tool. You walk up to whatever device and it would show its status, plot some nice graphs, allow changing parameters. All of this without having fancy IOT hardware or screens on the stationary devices.
@Pileot
Жыл бұрын
When you drill the hole with the screw extractor, try going slower with the extractor. You want it to bite and hold, going fast and wobbling the drill all over is literally the worst way to use it, the bit will never bite and you will just make the problem worse. My set is designed to use in a hand driver, slow and steady wins the race.
@agasa_workshop
Жыл бұрын
about the T-splitter connector: I've seen it used in some contexts in which you need to "steal" current from an existing setup that might be quite tight without redoing the wiring for example to add some stuff to a car, an example is stealing power from the high beams of your car to send the opening signal to your garage door. (and make it so that it only works once per activation and not that it keeps pressing if you enable them, it's meant to go with a quick flicker of course) and in that case it can work fine because it makes you access the cables without fiddling with them too much
@selli69
7 ай бұрын
Regarding the charger board: It's not the (.100) pitch of the solder pads, its your soldering skills. They're look more like glueing than soldering.
@Didodadodi
Жыл бұрын
This video series has been the one im most hyped about. I am always looking for fun and cool gadgets/parts. Thank you for the work you are putting into your videos!
@AlexDD99
Ай бұрын
9:57 This removers work fine, but not with a drill... To remove a damaged screw, you need one thing above all, and that is sensitivity. You don't have this in any way with a cordless screwdriver. Use it with a hand tool and it works as described!
@girthquake1413
Жыл бұрын
Another benefit of that ATX breakout board is that it keeps someone from having to open a power supply, which can be a very dangerous thing. I love that China seems full of engineers that have specific use cases and things built *specifically* for that issue. Said ATX Board implies someone at some point, had spare working computer power supplies lying around but needed tons of USB and light lab-bench work and just... made due, with something that's safer than tearing into one. I really have to hand it to em.
@dom1310df
Жыл бұрын
I think those connectors you showed first would be good when fitting dashcams or telemetry black boxes to cars, where there isn't enough slack to cut the wires and add a terminal block.
@simplehuman8675
Жыл бұрын
T tap terminals are used not as replacement for wago`s. Main purpose of use of taps are automotive instalations. When you need to connect something to existing wiring of car or motorcycle, often they are one of best options.
@orion310591RS
Жыл бұрын
10:06 - FYI , if you look at 0.25 speed, you rotate it in wrong way.... one is right side (screwing) to make drill hole, and then change to left side (unscrewing) side to get threads to head and continue unscrewing bolt. However, to make this work, you need hard steel tool, and hard steel bolt. This will not work with chinese soft tool and soft bolts. Just use torex 20 bit, and hit it with hammer to the head of screw, then use ratchet to remove bolt.
@xitman327
Жыл бұрын
DIY or buy solar multimeter would be interesting!
@PoweredbyRobots
Жыл бұрын
Drill bits... if you wiggle the bit around like that while cutting then the subsequent drill extractor would not be able to grip. Not convinced about that one...
@chrissxMedia
Жыл бұрын
actually considered buying that atx breakout board a while ago (but i already did my atx-psu-based desk wiring before that so i didn’t buy it) nice to see it here and good to know it’s good
@winchesterlyon
Жыл бұрын
It seems you were trying to use the screw extractor in clock-wise, forward mode.. If so, you needed to run it in reverse to remove the screw with the extractor.
@evangiavina3002
Жыл бұрын
The "T-Splitter Connector" has been used where I work because a client required a modification to existing hardware (1000+ systems). The technicians did not necessarily know much about wiring. The wires were crimped in factory, then the technicians just had to use pliers to put blue splitter on blue wire, plug in the already crimped wire and done. That was fast, required no technical knowledge at all, only one plier. I don't remember the exact cost but I think it was even cheaper than a wago connector. So I think it has its uses.
@kameljoe21
Жыл бұрын
I prefer wire nuts over wago what ever they are called. The puck lights I got today and installed 7 of the so far all came with those push to connect wago connectors. I hate them. Will have to suffer using them. The only bad thing is they rely on the metal in the connector to stand up to the current where wire nuts do not have any problems.
@thombaz
9 ай бұрын
That screw extrator is one of the most usefull stuff I ever bought just randomly. I even used It today, really amazing and safed me many times.
@tehpanda64
Жыл бұрын
I love VFD's they have such an iconic look. Especially those red ones you sometimes find.
@inothome
Жыл бұрын
As others have mentioned, I really hope you weren't trying to remove a screw by turning it clockwise.... But probably just the camera making it look that way. But if you did go clockwise, it can wear down the teeth on the bit, then it won't work in the correct direction either.
@Ziplock9000
9 ай бұрын
12:19 The current you can draw from the 24 pin connector is considerably less than the dedicated power rails. Separate outputs for those would be much better IMHO
@Alexious_sh
11 ай бұрын
The charging module has another problem - it switches from external power to the battery when the first one disconnects very slowly. It takes 50+ Ms, which makes the module useless if you want to build a UPS.
@lukezaa10
Жыл бұрын
There are couple size of T connectors, they are fine to use in automotive where you cannot use wagos. T connectors are less sensitive for vibrations.
@thinktech2go
Жыл бұрын
T-splitters are communally used in vehicles for aftermarket accessories, I used these when in the past while installing alarms / remote starters on cars. They have 3 sizes red, blue and yellow, red for thinner wire, blue for mid and yellow for wire around 10 gauge.
@0MrENigma0
Жыл бұрын
Please keep making these videos. They are entertaining and so are you.
@thegreyspectre9838
Жыл бұрын
That same VFD is used on several US locomotive control ‘gold boxes’ and they almost never die.
@BRUXXUS
Жыл бұрын
I've been using those little battery charger/5v boost boards for a while now and they're awesome! But I also agree, the fact it turns off with low current is frustrating. If it's used for a project with a MCU, you can set a pin to send a little pulse to the "key" line every few seconds to keep it awake, though.
@ArifKamaruzaman
Жыл бұрын
ah good to know.
@BeeTriggerBee
Жыл бұрын
On the T-splitter: You have to understand that outside northern europe Wago connectors are like unicorns, It seems like its made for the US market since they use those red hats (yes 2023) and have usually one set of gauge on their cables (some look like actual stereo cables)
@naasking
Жыл бұрын
From the video, it looks like your screw extractors were turning the wrong way. They definitely wouldn't work in that case.
@MikeHarris1984
Жыл бұрын
When I go to Chicago, I always fly midway. It's very dense. You see rooftops under the wheels during landing it's freaky. But when it lands, it's a shot down and firm brake. Those pilots are very good at stopping those big 737 on such a short runway and approaches.
@renxula
Жыл бұрын
You seem lost 😂
@vtbn53
Жыл бұрын
Great video, but just to clarify, the pricing doesn't include shipping and tax, shipping can be, and often is, twice or three times the cost of the item and tax is whatever is imposed in your location, for me it's an additional 10% on the cost of the item plus shipping. so a $4 item becomes auto-magically $15 +
@bdbgh
Жыл бұрын
I actually have that exact set of screw extractors, and successfully extracted a few screws with it. I found that using the smallest hole making side of the head first and then using the extractor bit that was 1 size larger works for me, needs a bit of force towards the screw to make the extractor side of the bit bite the screw head to start unscrewing it. The smallest screw I extracted was a screw from a dead 2.5" disk that was holding on to a disk caddy, and the largest was something similar to what you showed in the video.
@MountainParameters
8 ай бұрын
There seems to be a widely held belief that Li-Co Batteries should not be soldered, so I bought a spot welder kit for when I built and eBike battery. Of course you need to buy nickel strips and find a high capacity power supply or battery to power it. However, I have seen numerous videos where the user solders directly to the battery with no apparent ill effects. It makes me wonder what the reality is with respect to soldering leads to lithium batteries.
@imagineeelego
Жыл бұрын
that battery charging circuit is really good for my project and such a low price i have never seen. Thanks for this series!
@RomanoPRODUCTION
Жыл бұрын
00:37 the Smile Party is here. :) AWESOME
@MarioMonte13
Жыл бұрын
I used those T wire splicers in my last job as a laundry repairman. A lot of different retrofits included those to supply power to new card readers to replace the coin slots in older machines. Though the spade connectors were usually precrimped on the wires included with the retrofit.
@Elmojomo
Жыл бұрын
You had a job fixing broken trousers and blouses? Cool. ;)
@winchesterlyon
Жыл бұрын
For the T-splitter, you bough only 1 size. They come in different sizes - each size comes in a different colour. You should have looked it up before commenting on it. Also, you're comparing it to a very different item designed for very different purposes. While you could use the other item to "slplit" a connection, you have to cut the wire you're splitting to be able to use it. With the t-splitter, you just have to crimp it onto the wire you want to tap into.
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