Leah Crane (UK) who just missed out on the Finals and Josh Larson (US) are commenting. Two top climbers commenting : I like that ! Thanks IFSC !
@Mosla
9 жыл бұрын
Guillaume Darius Just what I wanted to say: Great commenting, funny, authentic and they really know what they're talking about; at least I think they do ;-)
@brienelwoodwashburn2839
9 жыл бұрын
If you require "control" of the final hold, then Minoru should have had that top all day. There was absolutely no question that he was in full control. It absolutely requires more control to repeatedly touch and release a hold with your second hand than having two hands steadily on the hold. Absolutely give him a warning on that when he comes down, and tell him to make sure he checks for the send before coming down in the future, but if you are going to call it "control", you can't take the top away from him after the control he displayed up there. He was up there securely on the hold for awhile, and clearly could have stayed for quite awhile longer.
@topanteon
9 жыл бұрын
Really nothing better than watching some bouldering while drinking coffee in the morning. Also... Takes time for higher qualities to upload guys. Take it easy.
@HaploBartow
9 жыл бұрын
Derfoklishe They can't help lower quality versions being available first; that's how KZitem works. They would have to make the video Private until the HD finished processing... which means we wouldn't get to see it for like another 6 to 12 hours for a video this long.
@topanteon
9 жыл бұрын
HaploBartow I know, that's what I said
@apollonian88
9 жыл бұрын
Derfoklishe Sounds awesome, I could watch it anytime of day!!
@zhaneranger
9 жыл бұрын
Thank you IFSC. Great having fellow climbers as commentators and much better video work and overall quality this time.
@falteot144
9 жыл бұрын
Is this a sarcasm?...@.@
@ianmcnulty5056
9 жыл бұрын
Good, but sometimes I feel like they haven't been watching the previous attempts !
@peterkorotaev2069
9 жыл бұрын
This is great filming, the split screen is so much better than the old system of filming.
@peterkorotaev2069
9 жыл бұрын
Peter Korotaev Wish it would have been continued for the whole comp :(
@kristikincaid7782
9 жыл бұрын
we really like having climbers do the commentary during the comps. they bring a great perspective. also the haiyang comp was noticeably better than others in terms of video and production quality. keep up the good work! (i, personally, would rather have a high quality video the day after the comp than a low quality live stream)
@sarahpreston4558
2 жыл бұрын
much agreed!
@dutchy_
9 жыл бұрын
Excellent World Cup, chairs breaking, timers stopping :) BUT definitely good routes, loved the commentary by Leah Crane and Josh Larson. Thank you IFSC
@Ninja3198
9 жыл бұрын
Climbing starts at 18:50
@ValetteRenoux
8 жыл бұрын
Best commentating I've heard in awhile. Leah Crane is enjoyable to listen to.
@brakingtrails1520
8 жыл бұрын
1:47:08 - patented Adam Ondra power scream heard all the way back through the commentators mic. LOVE that guy.
@Gubernatrix
9 жыл бұрын
Entertaining commentary, thanks Leah and Josh - great job!
@jeremyq9852
9 жыл бұрын
Thank you for not trying to stream this one and just uploading it. Infinitely better then the last comp. The boulders looked pretty crazy but a great watch nonetheless!
@benoitcerrina
9 жыл бұрын
Josh, Leah, great comments. So much better when we have 2 real climbers commenting,
@rphllxndr
9 жыл бұрын
Can you guys please consider changing the rules about the double match? Sometimes you get people winning a bloc by matching their fingertips from a lower hold (not control) and then you disqualify a guy who had 100% control of the hold (Minoru Nakano). I know he sent the problem, you know he sent the problem, he knows he sent the problem. Give him credit for sending the problem.
@homunculusjeeperzs6497
9 жыл бұрын
Adrian MacNair No. Rules are rules. Even if they match a top with their fingertips and their legs are holding all the weight and it's what keeps them in the wal l they still are in control.
@rphllxndr
9 жыл бұрын
Homunculus Jeeperzs And yet Nakano could have done one-armed pullups off the last hold. Some judicial discretion is called for in this case to say, yes he had absolute control of the final hold, he touched it with both hands, and let's not be silly about this. The man completed the problem.
@homunculusjeeperzs6497
9 жыл бұрын
yes i know it's silly. he completed the problem and had control but the rules are not only those. you also have to match. he didnt match. there are rules in every sport and you wont like all of them.
@pippapips
9 жыл бұрын
Most of all you have to wait for the judge to say "OK", before coming down. This is not complicated to do, but Minoru Nakano failed.
@Lacaena
9 жыл бұрын
Homunculus Jeeperzs There is also a rule about 3 seconds and not many climbers follow it. And judges don't mind somehow. Because they decide that there was a control before 3 seconds pass. So this time it should have been the same decision because the control was obvious.
@ChuckAnglais
9 жыл бұрын
damn. Nakano was robbed on problem 2! that was a real send in any book.
@cyrushyk
9 жыл бұрын
thank you for taking over the commentating. the previous three videos were killing me…
@brienelwoodwashburn2839
9 жыл бұрын
I want to take a second to say that it has been a really fun event to watch so far. (I'm only at 1:03:09, right after the MInoru misstep.) My comments have almost exclusively been critical on the production or officiating thus far, but I really have been enjoying watching the bouldering. The routes have been quite well done in all of the events I've watched. I don't think there has been a single route where no one topped. It has been a really good mix. It's been fun to watch really strong climbers dominate a route while others fail, only to see it change to the exact opposite on the next route. The routes have done a great job of really highlighting the strengths and weaknesses of climbers. Keep improving the quality and you should have a great year in 2016.
@HerrFinsternis
6 жыл бұрын
More Leah Crane for commentary. Great voice and insights to listen to.
@AndTheApe
9 жыл бұрын
Thankfully this is much better footage than last time out in China!
@mouflik5286
9 жыл бұрын
Nice commentating by Leah and Josh.
@DCassidy42
9 жыл бұрын
41:45 Ondra although very talented is a certifiable spaz.
@aarongittelman2508
3 ай бұрын
Watching this in 2024 just after the Olympic qualifiers. So fascinating to see! Akiyo's legendary 'adjacent problem' beta break. Lil' baby Miho. Jongwon chon in his prime. Adam Ondra has aged well.
@Rya_Yomira
9 жыл бұрын
These routes were nuts, Would have loved to see how M4 would have played out.
@Trition08
9 жыл бұрын
That was so much better then the video last week.
@yannpuzenat712
9 жыл бұрын
no more of that frustration not able to watch both of the climbers on the same screen..i thing you do it on purpose, just to stress us out!! 90%of the time we are not able to see a top in its totality...we miss the start, we miss the top.... WE DON'T CARE ABOUT HAVING THE BEST CAMERA ANGLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WE JUST WANT TO SEE AAAAALLLLLLLLL THE ATEMPTS BY AAAAALLLLL THE CLIMERS!!! SPLIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIT THE SCREEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
@yannpuzenat712
9 жыл бұрын
Yann Puzenat and sorry for the spelling....too much stress may be.lol
@ChuckAnglais
9 жыл бұрын
amazing 'foot dyno' from Miho at 1:21:35
@brienelwoodwashburn2839
9 жыл бұрын
It is too bad the overhang on M4 was so far. Ondra's power scream during the campus to the double foot was really awesome, and I was hoping he would conquer it with that. That said, this was a really fun comp to watch with some cool routes.
@sk8guitardrums
9 жыл бұрын
good route setting, looked very challenging and the hot conditions made everyone work so hard. nice job with the commenting. Shame about the bad music choice at the event, must have put the climbers off.
@TheNorthernDruid
9 жыл бұрын
Good commenting and video quality. Nice return to form after Chongqing. Keep it up.
@TimWillie
9 жыл бұрын
Actual climbing starts around the 18:50 mark.
@BESTCLIMBER
9 жыл бұрын
so what do we learn about the ifsc rules ? when the hold is too small its allowed to touch it with a finger tip (absolutely two hand control for sure) , but when its big enough, you have to hold it with every other part of the hand. what about switching hands on a spax top hold to count the top ? that would be a really nice rule...-.-
@Acceptera
9 жыл бұрын
Very good camera work :) Keep it up this way :)
@jaredwarburton8749
9 жыл бұрын
Watching the technical difficulty, then release this is a youtube video.. :D
@JANJAN-vw3km
9 жыл бұрын
jan logic: cant stuck on this hold, I might skip it.
@energ8t
9 жыл бұрын
These were some tough problems. I tweaked a back muscle watching it.
@lilyellis2761
9 жыл бұрын
They seem to be having some trouble with the name graphics....
@Hotstuff882cool
9 жыл бұрын
Actual climbers as commentators? The best!
@muroescaladaipchile706
9 жыл бұрын
Ahora si pues IFSC... NIVEL OLÍMPICO!!!
@homunculusjeeperzs6497
9 жыл бұрын
why the commentators keeps saying jan weakness are crimps?? havent they seen his training video? he's a monster... (9 campus)
@andreasabels589
9 жыл бұрын
Homunculus Jeeperzs because the others are even better on tiny holds? rustam probably weights 2/3 of jan, it seems natural that he can hold onto smaller stuff.
@franzengelhardt8451
9 жыл бұрын
Where is jule wurm Havent seen her in the last comps
@jakubdegler
9 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the upload! Go Klingler go!
@renkaOO1
9 жыл бұрын
thank you for the great quality !
@Alteczar
9 жыл бұрын
Minoru is always getting screwed
@lisamosch4156
9 жыл бұрын
Why isn't Juliane Wurm competing in the world cups in China?
@CTRLALTDUDLEY
9 жыл бұрын
Were they commenting inside of an arcade? That background noise is driving me nuts.
@ErinGarneau3
9 жыл бұрын
Does anyone know what grades the boulders are for the world cups?
@Psychid5
9 жыл бұрын
Anyone knows what's the song playing when Rustam is climbing the last boulder at 2:16:00?
@NickRoman
9 жыл бұрын
boulder 2 looks so ridiculously difficult. can you imagine doing that for real on a rock where you really don't want to fall off?
@BESTCLIMBER
9 жыл бұрын
absolutely stupid to dont count the top of nakano. nearly everybody just puts his fingertips to the top hold or just hold it for a second followed by a one arm pull up. when someone is able to clap für 6,7 times at a hold with ease, he topped the boulder.
@b1p_mac275
9 жыл бұрын
I agree! That was BS and makes IFSC look bad.
@pongwiboonma
8 жыл бұрын
agree
@richardfredlund3802
5 жыл бұрын
I also notice now in 2018 I didn't see him in the comps...so I hope that bad beat didn't affect his enthusiasm, because he is/was obviously extremely talented.
@samcarr7893
9 жыл бұрын
Massive praise to IFSC for an equal gender commentary.
@amandaclimbing6718
9 жыл бұрын
Bubba Sparkxx - heat it up!!!
@nicolasvallee5992
9 жыл бұрын
20:09 "a flash on the first go" lol
@Acceptera
9 жыл бұрын
Nicolas Vallée Sure it wasnt the third? :)
@nicolasvallee5992
9 жыл бұрын
Acceptera That doesn't make any sende either huh ? :D
@HaploBartow
9 жыл бұрын
Nicolas Vallée Heh, she probably meant "first go" as in "first problem".
@apollonian88
9 жыл бұрын
Nicolas Vallée worry about yourself and not other people because that is not something a normal, healthy person would comment on.
@nicolasvallee5992
9 жыл бұрын
Jan Soltek I just thought i was funny, calm down creep!
@amit2po
Жыл бұрын
Why does it look like Shaun only has 3 fingers on her right hand at 2:09:51 ?
@resdin
9 жыл бұрын
Oh really.... Tell me more about the chairs
@AspirinC
9 жыл бұрын
360p ... seriously? :D
@mouflik5286
9 жыл бұрын
AspirinC When uploading a video, the lower qualities are uploaded first. HD will be available soon.
@jazzediceberg1175
7 жыл бұрын
Chon!?!?!? Is that who i think they're talking about?
@clausscherschel3938
9 жыл бұрын
I disapprove of those additional matresses layed out benath the climbs. If you're unlucky, you hit the edge of one with a foot when falling and hurt your ankle quite badly.
@Wardog11111
9 жыл бұрын
Claus Scherschel I'm sure they were placed so the center of them were at the most likely place to land. They are also quite thin. I'd much rather land on the edge of them than in the gap between two matts.
@clausscherschel3938
9 жыл бұрын
Wardog11111 Yes, I got the explanation a bit further into the broadcast. My point was less about controlled jumping but accidential falling. I think, neither having gaps nor having matresses covering them is a good solution. .
@Wardog11111
9 жыл бұрын
Claus Scherschel Yeah I agree
@r.b.4611
8 жыл бұрын
Nakano matched it, who cares if the match took the form of multiple bitch slaps??
@rykom1ke665
9 жыл бұрын
At last really decent commentary and filming! For once everyone commentating actually climbs
@Calcimer
9 жыл бұрын
2 hours 19 minutes naruto ost ayyy lmao
@ianpradhan8291
9 жыл бұрын
awww, Minoru get penalized for smacking the finish, and then Akiyo asks if she can use the other route rocks.
@joecairo1
9 жыл бұрын
Will be great when Ondra is done with university.. you can tell that fulltime school has divided his time enough to show in his climbing.. a theory anyways...
@blinkskaterkc
9 жыл бұрын
He's a big goody giraffe
@tatertotfamily
6 жыл бұрын
Umm. I’m pretty sure no one calls them piggy back holds in America lol I’m pretty sure it’s screw ons...
@timcomerford8506
9 жыл бұрын
Shauna's F4 was sick.
@JrMinnimastr1
9 жыл бұрын
2:17:20 are they really playing naruto opening music?? xD
@Sevbi
9 жыл бұрын
2:17:20 do you hear the Naruto music hahaha
@rainbowbecca3340
9 жыл бұрын
Omg really?! That's so cool!!
@montessoriroom1014
9 жыл бұрын
"Katerina is sitting on the floor." Amazing announcer.
@dawn9782
9 жыл бұрын
19:07 did she really says.. "double hand job?" :D
@Wardog11111
9 жыл бұрын
Danpyo 2g No that's your mind, she said 'double hand jump' haha
@Ajomoni
9 жыл бұрын
Danpyo 2g 27:15 "Is that a fist? Is she _fisting_ against the volume?"
@tiffany88ag
9 жыл бұрын
Am I the only one who is bothered by the male commentator saying "Do you think she braids her own hair, or do you think someone else braided it for her" after the Japanese climber made it on her first try. And the female commentator saying "I think she did it on her own because Japanese girls are really good with doing their hair" or something like that. SERIOUSLY? SERIOUSLY??????? I thought I am watching a bouldering competition.
@daniele4172
7 жыл бұрын
yeah that was a few seconds chat over a 2,30 hours competition so get over it.
@mayann5716
3 жыл бұрын
@@daniele4172 there was also repeated mention of all Japanese climbers being flexible from yoga...
@britesynth
8 жыл бұрын
clock made in china
@guntherbachmann1349
9 жыл бұрын
wow..........
@ripapa6355
4 жыл бұрын
Minoru topped. That's bs.
@fuzz6263
3 жыл бұрын
Big lesson my ass. He understands damn well, Nakano was robbed.
@macchan07
9 жыл бұрын
Adam uses chalk in observation. Interesting.
@mentalmadmatt3
8 жыл бұрын
Merc sl for sale scotland
@doppelcorn1
9 жыл бұрын
7 Tops for 6 Male competitors out of 4 problems... not the best routesetting ever. But interesting to watch anyway
@kilgour22
9 жыл бұрын
doppelcorn1 The first three climbs were very well set. The last one was just a bit too difficult. The goal when setting routes for finals is to create separation in the field. If you have everyone topping, then the routesetters have not done their job. Conversely, if you have no one topping, then the routesetters still have not done their job. 75% isn't the worst grade, though obviously not the best. The first three problems created separation in the field, which shows you who the clear winners are.
@iatrestman
9 жыл бұрын
The chemistry between the two commentators here is hilariously lacking....Turn off the sound and crank up some music for this one.
@okyeabuddyguy
9 жыл бұрын
Akio @ 1:11:50 hahaha
@bartalamoo1
9 жыл бұрын
TROUBLE WAS CAUSED AT THE FOOD COURT
@Ajomoni
9 жыл бұрын
1:11:24 Hahahahaha well played
@valaha
9 жыл бұрын
1:01:41 omg what a stupid referees... its obv he made it wtf!!!
@hak1901p
9 жыл бұрын
The women only completed those cuz she respected the method n the method respected her so there fore she is not better then my gender lmao
@Krippner21
9 жыл бұрын
The worst comp I have watched, infuriating judging. If the IOC saw this it would be game over.
@nikhilsimhar
9 жыл бұрын
great climbing, mediocre commentary :-/
@brienelwoodwashburn2839
9 жыл бұрын
+nikhil simha Unfortunately, this is still ten times better than usual. Commentary in Vail was horrendous. At least we have two experienced climbers here who can give some reasonable and useful insight into the routes and climbers. The male commentator in Vail-or was it when he commentated in Toronto?-straight up said on live broadcast that he, as one of the two announcers for the event, doesn't know very much about the sport. He proved that statement to be spot-on throughout both the Vail and Toronto events. It is too bad given how entertaining and interesting the sport is. If they tried a little harder I think they could make these broadcasts really amazing. There are just too many technical difficulties and deficiencies in commentary. Maybe in a year or two it'll all come together.
@JayFe0
9 жыл бұрын
+nikhil simha It's a niche sport and I suspect these aren't professional commentators. I doubt there is the budget to plough the millions into production that you see in mainstream sports. I kind of like it. Mainstream sports are all about money. That corrupts sportsmanship and it adds sensationalism, because it sells. You wouldn't get them joking about broken chairs in football. The commentators seemed knowledgeable enough and that's what's important.
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