As much as presentation software and screen captures are great, I just love the fact that you print out the macro board shots and thermal stuff. It works so well.
@Zig285
6 жыл бұрын
Agreed! I picked up that technique after seeing it here.
@Motorman2112
6 жыл бұрын
While I quite enjoyed this video, I feel it would have been better if you had used a bigger calculator.
@MikeyMacPerth
5 жыл бұрын
dead hahaha
@DrorF
4 жыл бұрын
That's what I was thinking too 😂
@jamesln5392
6 жыл бұрын
It's grounded, i'm shocked!
@maicod
6 жыл бұрын
James Leinen if it wasnt't grounded you would be REALLY shocked ;-)
@renzevenir4853
6 жыл бұрын
If it was ungrounded, it'll have the _potential_ to _shock_ you, which of course will _Hertz_ very much!
@lancer525
5 жыл бұрын
Ohm my that's bad...
@edwardhugus2772
5 жыл бұрын
Only if you were Amp-scent minded.
@iRuf12
4 жыл бұрын
"ooo, its Earthed! that's nice"
@ferongr
6 жыл бұрын
I'd be nice if you could do a video on a proper floodlight you can buy in Europe (like the Osram Ledvance or Geyer floods that are sold at quite attractive prices). The comparison could be enlightening.
@CyberlightFG
6 жыл бұрын
ferongr A chinese company bought that part of Osram.
@ferongr
6 жыл бұрын
From a cursory outside look at the electrical supply store, there is really no comparison between the quality of an Osram light and a no-name Chinese light. Even normally imported (not gray import) Chinese lights are really bad in many ways and QC tends to be terrible.
@restcure
6 жыл бұрын
Or at least illuminating.
@rs8839
6 жыл бұрын
ferongr Will Clive ever see the light?😁
@Graham_Langley
6 жыл бұрын
+Frank Gormans Yup - Osram spit off the Ledvance lighting division in 2016 and this year it was bought by a Chinese consortium.
@richardworboys7212
6 жыл бұрын
Hey Clive, thanks again for another informative video. I have been playing with those other kind of 'driverless' chips. The ones I purchased were from 'MB Lighting' and were pretty cheap. I tried the 20,50 and 120w versions which were $2 a piece for the 20 and 50w and $9 for the 120w. I liked the look of the 120w as it's surface area to power ratio was the best (thinking of heat transfer, not really sure how important that is in relation to other things) I have not had any issues with the smaller chips although those are not in use as much as the 120w chips which are on almost 24/7. Out of the 12 I have used, 10 have failed, the majority of them would still be emitting light from some of the leds but you could just barely see they were on. I was extremely careful in fitting them into the housings I had (which were easily suitable for power rating) however I cannot rule out user error. I noticed that my second order of the same drivers showed that they had redesigned the chips since my first purchase, the size of all were noticeably larger (the plate at least). Of the second order, I have had two failures. I feel some of the failures could have been from the wire connections to the chip itself. With such a large 'heatsink' as such, it does make for a challenging solder job. A lot of these new chips have been repopulating Casings from older 'failed' floodlights that I have accumulated from my adventures in the quest for the perfect LED. These new chips look great, The warm white is perfect color temp for my liking. And the price, well suspiciously cheap, but they look as good as any other I've seen. My greatest find over the years was a 100w (75w it turned out) Flood on amazon for $26. Now the housing was junk, too flimsy and you could tell the driver didn't stand a chance, so I swapped it out for a better casing before I installed. This was my first 'driverless' device I had come across, I believe it was a 16x8 grid of 0.5w Led's with 110v plumbed direct into it. How was a great find you may ask? After the initial reworking, The light itself has been amazing, Has been on for 22 hours each day at least, color temp is perfect, and looks as good now as it did on day 1. The biggest down side though has been the costly pursuit to find more of the same, and that where most of my housings have come from!
@johnfrancisdoe1563
6 жыл бұрын
The squeezing of the cable is obviously intended as a strain relief so the cable isn't pulled out. That aluminium plate was probably chosen to match the thickness of the squeezed cable (if the cable wasn't squeezed in there, the plate could just be omitted). Unfortunately, they didn't include the cable sheath in the squeezed zone. Anyway, a flat product like that should use a side entry to not waste its own thinness.
@pauljs75
6 жыл бұрын
I'm guessing their trusting the silicon potting and conformal coat to keep moisture out, even if the seal around the cord or lens gasket isn't quite up to par. They put stuff on there to keep it from flowing out before setting, so it stays thick which may actually work. Thermal paste seems to be a QC thing, somebody being lazy there. The strain relief or apparent lack of it seems to be the worse problem. So with better QC and better cord mounting, it might not be that terrible.
@izimsi
6 жыл бұрын
I would use that after replacing the heatsink compound and making sure that cables aren't punched through. Seems quite a reasonable design anyway
@Lumibear.
6 жыл бұрын
Typical, once you got your tool in there there was sticky white stuff everywhere, well, glad to see you’re a gentleman and don’t wipe it on the curtains afterwards, Clive, but have you never heard of a wet wipe?
@BeezyKing99
5 жыл бұрын
“I should be cleaning off my fingers at some point... but let’s see if I stab myself first.. hmm oh well” haha... you’re so chill Clive.
@ZylonFPV
6 жыл бұрын
Congrats on 300k subscribers! 🎉
@phils4634
6 жыл бұрын
Clive deserves a million! (Especially when you compare this channel's content with the "KZitem average" . )
@isoguy.
6 жыл бұрын
You're so cool man, thank yuo for taking time to share your skills with us Clive.
@jusb1066
6 жыл бұрын
most youtubers let the success go to their head and they stop doing what they started out doing and get lazy, the money goes to their head too, clive makes the exact same video now as he did way back, thats how i like it
@lakesideaudio
6 жыл бұрын
Very good strip downs of so many things and replies to things you need advice about. Really clever guy well done 👍 thanks for your help
@mattburrows2615
6 жыл бұрын
Good to know others are fascinated by lighting tech as much as me. Uneven cooling of the led array and poor cable handling is not a good sign. Keep up the good work Clive. 👍
@Mixbag
6 жыл бұрын
Clive. would you be able to do some more usb charger tear downs ? its something we take for granted everyday and would be nice to see different good/bad designs :)
@smileypete4625
6 жыл бұрын
If you like teardowns check out Ing. Max Koschuh's channel: kzitem.info/rock/Lsp71mRNqoRSi6YC0jLmFA :-)
@anishsarkar120
6 жыл бұрын
many ppl inlcuding clive had covered cheap usb charger
@twocvbloke
6 жыл бұрын
I guess one way to get around the squished wires issue, use an externally-mounted driver in a junction box near the light and fit a "traditional" DC LED module with a much smaller footprint, yes it adds a requirement for additional wiring, but, saves squashing mains powered wires to a potential short... :) And were you filming this at around 8pm-ish? The mains frequency went down a fair bit on the Hopi, indicating the end of a dreary TV soap and everyone powering up their kettles... :P
@That_Handle
6 жыл бұрын
twocvbloke , ¿¡ !? ¡¿ That much measurable frequency drift ¿¡ !? Gonna have to look for that during an analagous event here in the US ! Ponderous... wonder how "smart power grids" technology is supposed to mitigate said affectations...
@RWBHere
6 жыл бұрын
The voltage dropped by a couple of volts, but only when that 52 Watt load was added. The total resistance (impedance) of the cabling to that meter was probably around 0.075 Ohms, which would account for a ~2V drop, using the formula (V^2/W) = R. So ~4/52 = 0.077 Ohms.
@jusb1066
6 жыл бұрын
@john howard, sounds like a trump quote!
@tiger12506
6 жыл бұрын
Google used to bring up absolutely nothing. Now it brings up _one_ result. Your video. :)
@FFcossag
6 жыл бұрын
7:34 OwO what's this? 18:30 This is all covered in, oh ... and, you know, uhh... Very goopy. 19:00 This is making a huge mess. Oh my.
@AmblingMan
6 жыл бұрын
I think it's more a case that the screws are low emissivity rather than being so much cooler. Try colouring them in with a black marker pen.
@mattburrows2615
6 жыл бұрын
Andrew Cooke Imho, it's that the screws have direct large surface area contact with heatsink compared to much smaller (possibly indirect) contact area with the led driver heatsink.
@AmblingMan
6 жыл бұрын
Hi Matt, Infrared cameras are fantastic diagnostic tools, but they have some severe limitations that it's important to understand, it's complicated, but in short, don't try and measure shiney stuff.. have a quick tread of this : support.fluke.com/find-sales/Download/Asset/2563251_6251_ENG_B_W.PDF?trck=emissivityexplanation
@mattburrows2615
6 жыл бұрын
Andrew Cooke The stefan-Boltsman law isn't that complicated and I own and regularly operate a Fluke Ti110 on many materials including the 'shiny stuff' I still stick to my opinion from experience in the industry. Thanks for your input though.
@AmblingMan
6 жыл бұрын
that's cool, my time designing them seems to have been wasted.
@mattburrows2615
6 жыл бұрын
Andrew Cooke that's for you to decide but my unit has saved me hundreds of hours. Your point is a factor no doubt about that but mine is also. The screws are most of the way into a colder heatsink and the head down onto a white and somewhat insulating layer over the led plate including under the screw head. Also Note the halo of cooler area just around the screw head in the image where it is just partially cooling the led plate from the screw head. If the screws weren't cooler then there wouldn't be a hotspot on the led array in the bottom right hand corner where a screw is absent as mentioned in the video.
@matthewweaver1123
6 жыл бұрын
You seem.... extra caffeinated today lol. Love it!
@error079
6 жыл бұрын
What would the thermal performance be like if the LED-board was properly mounted to the case?
@CyberlightFG
6 жыл бұрын
error079 This is very poorly assembled. It would make a huge difference if mounted correctly. But the surfaces are no way flat enough and the cable input is a no go. If you put on too much thermal grease it's a thermal isolator compared to aluminum. That transistor needs an additional heatsink, too.
@blediffecannell162
6 жыл бұрын
Frank Gormanns The transistor is heatsinked in the same way the LEDs are. Through the board it's soldered to.
@miniwarrior7
6 жыл бұрын
Just add another properly heatsync greased layer of aluminum between the light and the assembly to allow room for the wires and profit.
@klittanrose4147
6 жыл бұрын
I bought four COB chips after your first tear down video, 2 x 30 W and 2 x 50 W. I suspect the throttling does not work that well because the first three chips died rather quickly, approximately 3 weeks after install in different setups. 1. 50 W COB, ran on an old GPU-cooler with heat pipes and a 12 V fan in the tower. When it was cold it hit 53 W, then after a couple of minutes it throttled between 44 and 46 W. It managed to reach steady 70-100 C and all of a sudden only haft the LEDS worked faintly. Every second row worked as if it rode half a wave. 2. 30 W COB, put on another cooler only with ambient temperature to keep it cool. The surface area was a bit larger. But the same problem. It started at 34 W when cold then throttled back to 29-30. It also died three weeks later with half the LEDs flickering. 3. 50 W COB, put on a large sheet of aluminium with a CPU-cooler behind. Experimenting with the size of the surface area. No better luck here. 4. 30 W COB. This one is still running! I used the same CPU-cooler as in 3 but with a 12 V fan attached. This runs at 23-35 C, but without the fan it runs up to 75-105 C and throttles to 27 W. With the fan it does 33 W. I have a fifth chip from another supplier at 50 W waiting to be put on the CPU-cooler when 4 dies. The throttling therefore have only a marginal effect, because it cannot lower the power enough. I also found out you do not need that hot of an soldering iron to attach the cables if you only use old, 1987, Fluoridic based paste. It does however make you dizzy if you do not evacuate the air fast enough. Perhaps that is why it is no longer sold (lead based solder...) Enough surface area and fans are a must with these. One car battery and 12 V fans with a charger attached and an array with these chips. Or find a large industrial fan at 480 V and try to convince the wife it is for science. www.processenvironments.com/cartPics/4cb8c6797c051IRO_782_ARR_1.jpg
@LeifNelandDk
6 жыл бұрын
Do you have to pay extra to dispose of all the stuff you test and break apart? You must have a big container...
@DavidRobertsonUK
6 жыл бұрын
Those springy terminals on the HOPI meter seem like they're more trouble than they're worth. Why not remove it?
@BigClive
6 жыл бұрын
Because as soon as I do I'll find I need them.
@That_Handle
6 жыл бұрын
David Robertson How about relocating them to another location on the housing?
@greenaum
6 жыл бұрын
You could maybe fit a switch somewhere on the case, have the terminals switched off normally. One of those old-fashioned metal toggle switches would look nice.
@DavidRobertsonUK
6 жыл бұрын
greenaum that wouldn’t solve the issue of the terminals interfering with a UK plug being inserted
@LukasDzunko
6 жыл бұрын
That feeling when you search for component id and only result is BigClive video :D
@lwilton
6 жыл бұрын
Unit prominently claims an IP67 rating on the back. IP67 means: Ingress of water in harmful quantity shall not be possible when the enclosure is immersed in water under defined conditions of pressure and time (up to 1 m of submersion). So stick it in 3 feet of water for 30 minutes and no water will leak in that gland. Maybe.
@JanJeronimus
6 жыл бұрын
I also noticed the prominently IP67 ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code ) and hoped BigClive showed this submersion in the video.
@TheDefpom
6 жыл бұрын
The screws look colder on the LED because of them being reflective, put some black tape on them and then recheck their temp, or paint them black, then you will get the correct tmeperature.
@Mr.M1STER
6 жыл бұрын
There is something quite satisfying about watching you take electronics to pieces.
@ndmusick11
6 жыл бұрын
Have you though about taking the HOPI meter apart and turning the plug 90 degrees? So you would not have to use the death dapter
@aklef
6 жыл бұрын
Ha. Genius
@miniwarrior7
6 жыл бұрын
Reduces the chance of danger, no fun. he would never consider it.
@anishsarkar120
6 жыл бұрын
floating earth damn
@qwertyasdf66
6 жыл бұрын
Or just remove the speaker terminals.
@abigguitar
6 жыл бұрын
I was thinking the same thing, but for an entirely different reason. I'm surprised he hasn't taken the HOPI apart and reworked the circuitry to stablize the flickery display for the camera.
@ilaril
6 жыл бұрын
Excellent video, as always. Could you maybe do a test with the temperatures when you've made sure the thermal paste is actually gripping the whole board, and with that one corner screwed also? Like re-route the cables so that that is possible. Also if you could test it with one of the "driverless" leds you have, seeing if there's a difference and how it works. I do like the idea of smaller and "neater" light. I need to get one of those so that it'll help me fight against the darkness and the blues it brings.
@CyberlightFG
6 жыл бұрын
ilaril It will cause headache because of the flicker.
@JVerschueren
6 жыл бұрын
Well, unless you're having some sort of emissivity issue due to the conformal coating (the goop) going on there, if the mosfet/transistor is 108 centrigrade on the outside, it's going to be as near as makes no difference at critical junction temperature (125 centigrade) on the inside, which should see it fail fairly rapidly. At my college they (probably still have) had a little chamber to stress test circuits for heat. As one of our lab excercises was to design and execute an experiment with regard to reliability, I built a little 4520 counter circuit which I then intended to run at critical junction temperature, to see how long it lasted. I wrote a little assembler program for a Z80 computer board, which would clock each of the counters in turn and checked whether it had in fact increased by 1 or rolled over to 0 if the previous value was F. If an error occured, it would energize a relay which would, in turn, stop a timer. In theory, according to the most widely used model for a single semiconductor junction, it should have lasted about 72 days, but, probably because there a quite a lot of junctions in this IC and it's not really expected to run much above ambient (so the non-military ones don't undergo testing for it), it lasted only 4 days. In case anyone's wondering, there's an about x2 factor increase in lifetime expectancy for every 5 centigrade below critical junction temperature, so at a typical 45 degrees CPU temperature, you're looking at about 60 years for every individual junction (and there is prototype testing in this regard, although the production process is trusted afterwards).
@RWBHere
6 жыл бұрын
You're correct about junction temperature failure times. A semiconductor manufacturer in Europe (sorry, no specifics here, they would lose contracts) made devices which the customer specified were to be 100% QA tested for about a year at a specified minimum temperature, and under specific electrical conditions, before they were acceptable. Temperature had to be controlled very precisely, to ensure a 100% pass rate. One failure meant rejection of a whole large batch of devices, so a 5 degree Celsius over-temperature could have cost a lot of money. And a 5 degree under-temperature would have entailed a re-run of the whole test, which was also expensive and could have resulted in the cancellation of the contract. The customer was happy to pay around 20 times the retail price for something with ostensibly the same capabilities, which had not been life-tested so thoroughly. Why? The operational design life of the devices was quite short, but lives depended upon total semiconductor reliability during that time. The customer needed that guarantee of reliability. No device ever failed during use, and lives were indeed saved. Knowledge of the behaviour of Silicon junctions at temperature was essential, even critical, during design and manufacture.
@andrewradford6267
3 жыл бұрын
Almost looks like a grill when it's laying flat. Could you use two of these as a grill aka secondary life saving feature. Haha
@ckm-mkc
6 жыл бұрын
I had one of those integrated cobs fail recently and thought about sending it to you.... It first started flickering after running for around 8 months - prob 10-12 hrs/day. Finally it just died entirely. Was on a very large AL heat sync - IRC is was a 30w 120v version, but long rather than square.
@kjpmi
6 жыл бұрын
I'm wondering if anyone can answer a technical question about LED lightbulbs. I'm in the US. All of the bulbs in my house are GE Reveal. Originally it was the Reveal incandescent, then the Reveal CFL's now the Reveal LED's. It's the only bulbs whose color I can stand, it filters out the yellow without being overly cool like the fucking god awful cool white daylight bulbs. The LED's aren't quite as good as the incandescent were but still very close to the same color. ANYWAYS, I've noticed that with the LEDs GE has updated them a few times over the past few years. Now they're branded as GE HD Reveal. It looks like they've got the wattage down a bit for the amount of lumens they put out. The older LEDs had NO noticeable flicker. Their newest ones DO have a slight flicker which is only noticeable if you know it's happening or if you scan your eyes over them quickly. It's not bad but it still annoys the hell out of me. My question is WHY do they do this? Is this a case of GE cheaping out? Is it a byproduct of increasing the lumens while decreasing the wattage? The bulbs say they are dimmable, does that have anything to do with it? I have older Reveal LEDs which say dimmable but don't flicker. Why, why, why? It gives me a headache sometimes but I hate the soft white LEDs and the warm white LEDs so I feel stuck with these. The color output really is amazing. It makes colors (paint and such) really look nice and whites really look great. I've tried every other brand and none of them look right.
@derekwolfe6532
6 жыл бұрын
I've found that different lighting takes 1-2 weeks before I no longer notice the colors and shadows looking weird. Maybe you should try leaving different bulbs installed for awhile and see if you get used to it? Might free you from your reveal prison. Perhaps you're just used to reveal color temperatures so everything else looks bad? My guess is the driver circuitry has changed (certainly because its cheaper) and now there's visible flickering. If the driver has changed there could be small differences in efficiency. I wouldn't put up with flicker from expensive bulbs they would be going back to the store. I've always bought $1 warm white led bulbs from lowes (the whole house is full of them) and never had problems except for poor heat sinking eventually causing driver failure. This is a design issue, LED screw in bulbs have terrible heat sinking in general. After 2 or 3 years I put another $1 bulb in and tear the broken one apart for the LED board. Most people actually prefer some (or a lot) of yellow in their indoor lighting because its similar to tungsten bulb colors and is good for relaxing
@evilutionltd
6 жыл бұрын
STM could be ST Microelectronics and 18C242 is a PIC. However, it's probably some bullshit Chinese part number to cover up the fact it's a clone of something else.
@restcure
6 жыл бұрын
Deception? why relabel when it's cheaper/faster to just remove the number?
@LatitudeSky
6 жыл бұрын
restcure When you have a customer who wants a chip that looks legit-ish but won't check it beyond the label. Or you have a supplier with a fake chip that looks legit-ish and they'll sell them cheap. Nobody asks too many questions.
@justbearwithit1642
6 жыл бұрын
STM I wonder if that's ST Micro? If that's the case then it could be a custom PIC12 re programmed to contain all kinds of goodies.... perhaps pre-programmed failure so you have to buy another?
@kevindondrea144
3 жыл бұрын
Besides Grilling Food outside. Another thing us guys are great at. Sizing up a screw or nut and picking the correct size screwdriver, socket or wrench. :)
@bdf2718
6 жыл бұрын
It's earthed! Will wonders never cease? However, after having watched some of John Ward's videos about Chinese mains-powered stuff, the next question I have after "Is it earthed?" is "How good is the mains cable?" John's videos have exposed some really crappy Chinese mains cables: seriously under-rated for the task, crappy insulation with flame-enhancement properties, and conductors that are copper-plated to disguise the fact that they're made of damp string. Then again, you say the cable claims to be decent stuff rated for high temp (but it could be lying). So my big worry about that unit is the placement of the cable gland. It's in a *really* bad place where water will run onto it rather than away from it, so unless it makes a perfect seal you're going to get serious water ingress.
@mrlazda
6 жыл бұрын
This cable have CCC Certification (Chinese standard) markings which should mean is tested in proper third party certified lab and with equal/higher standards than CE. But anyway CE is good standard if there was not ability that you do CE marking self-certification (you do not need to any third party testing and certification, you basically just need to give statement that product is compliant with CE standards).
@RWBHere
6 жыл бұрын
European CE is not the same as Chinese CE, which means China Export; not to be sold in China. The two symbols look alike, when viewed quickly, but they are subtly different, as can be verified by a quick online search. And there is nothing to stop someone who is dishonest from printing the Chinese CE symbol on something which is substandard, or even lethal, and then making sure that it is not sold in China.
@mrlazda
6 жыл бұрын
RWBHere There is no such thing as Chinese CE (China Export), it is just incorrect application of CE by some Chinese manufacturers, to be able to sell merchandise in China it must comply with CCC standard markings (so they do not need to have some marking that will say it is for export only, if it do not have CCC markings it can't be sold in China) and must be verify by independent laboratory (only certified testing centers can verify that product is compliant with CCC standard), contrary to CE (or how you call it European CE, but only that one exist) which is self-certify for most of products (all electronic products do not need to be tested and certified by a third party certification body you just need to fill EC declaration of conformity), only little product require to be certified by " Notified Body".
@lumpyfishgravy
6 жыл бұрын
Is the cable gland an issue? The insulation continues all the way under the conformal coating. Water will be getting in via the louvres anyway.
@Motorman2112
6 жыл бұрын
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_marking#China_Export
@JN.0_o
6 жыл бұрын
Grow lights have been available with that driver arrangement have been available on eBay for at least a year or so. Haven't seen a white LED like that until now though.
@life_with_bernie
3 жыл бұрын
STM18 seems to indicate this is part of the STM18xxxx voltage controllers manufactured by ST Microelectronics in Switzerland, a well known manufacturer. I would suspect that the "C" designates a custom part made for a specific customer and that the rest of the part number designates something like the intended voltage and the design version.
@ljprep6250
6 жыл бұрын
Clive, the squishing of the wires allows a clamping effect to keep the mains cable from falling out. What was the lumen output of this thing? I'm recently seeing 50w LED floods marked (true 35w), so they're starting to become a bit more honest.
@MrMegaPussyPlayer
6 жыл бұрын
21:00 ... you need that water for cooling ;p
@download333
6 жыл бұрын
I had one of those 50 watt modules fail after I left it on a 12 hour timer while away for 3 days. It might have been a heat-sinking issue since the sink I used only contacted the back of the module in certain places. It also occurs to me that transients might damage that sort of module pretty easily, which is probably why the work light one had an MOV on it.
@partypillz3268
5 жыл бұрын
I've got 4 dog bowls @£1 each from wilkos I'm gunna get 4 100w driverless cobs an make a 400w grow lamp and I'm gunna call it The Dog Bowl Grow Lamp 😁
@TheNomadicTrader
4 жыл бұрын
Interested in making one of these myself, how did it go?
@Petertronic
6 жыл бұрын
What a shame, a potentially very useful light wrecked by that cramped cable - a disaster waiting to happen! Great video as always.
@spodula
6 жыл бұрын
I cant see that transistor lasting very long at that temperature either...
@jlucasound
5 жыл бұрын
"You're going to need a bigger calculator". (Jaws; 1975).
@picsi-software
6 жыл бұрын
I've got one of these modules (not the dodgy housing). Mounted it on an old PC heatsink.. its been running happily for 6 months now... But it does get quite hot without the heatsink... And the main input pads are flimsy I'll have a check to see if I can see any chip ids on my one.
@Dave2108
6 жыл бұрын
love your old MK 13 amp plug... i use to collect them to use on everything that plugged in..
@greenaum
6 жыл бұрын
Ah wow, so some of them switch in more LEDs as the voltage goes up, as a way of efficiently using the voltage? And it means no need for a step-down circuit to reduce to a standard DC voltage. Dead clever! Also slightly nicer power factor I suppose cos there's no capacitor or inductor storing and buffering power during appropriate bits of the sine wave. I see there's still a bridge rectifier in there. Actually rectified DC is about 300-ish volts, so presumably that's taken care of in the design? Really really clever! For a change, for something like a floodlight, that are traditionally cheap, and for being Chinese, traditionally crap. Does that mean they make LEDs with different taps for each voltage? Or are they only available with the whole thing bonded together for a mains voltage LED? I suppose the switching thingy means no need for a power supply, and therefore no heat dissipation from that power supply (just plenty from the LED). I suppose you'd still need a resistor in series to limit the current? Never heard of these before, dead impressive. As a guess I'd say the mystery chip is a microcontroller. There's a lot of ARMs called STMsomething, and the numbers look vaguely micro-ish. If it were some voltage convertor there'd be an inductor, and apparently we don't need that.
@dickweedjohnson6447
5 жыл бұрын
I use COB Led as grow lights
@stevmoon
6 жыл бұрын
I have had failures of the driverless cob but it always seem to be the "Ming & Ben" brand others have not failed.
@GingerChristmas
6 жыл бұрын
I had high hopes for this floodlight being somewhat decent inside, such a shame the heatsinking and lack of waterproofing let it down (especially when the box shows such a thing)
@Mark1024MAK
6 жыл бұрын
More Big Clive moth moments:-)
@TheDefpom
6 жыл бұрын
They could of pressed a depression into the metal to allow for cable entry (this can be done sit punches the hole, in a single operation, doing this would of increased the cable space, then they could of put on 4 mounting screws instead of 3.
@geofflotton5292
6 жыл бұрын
So much for the IP67 rating on the back. BTW. Heat transfer compound stops bleeding quite well.
@MrGlickClick
6 жыл бұрын
How much space do you have to store all the things you tear down? You must have quite the collection by now.
@carlwilson4425
6 жыл бұрын
That's why he lives on The Isle...Puts 'em in a cardboard box, writes "love from Ireland" on the outside, sets them afloat when there's not a northerly breeze, and gives them a "Viking Funeral". With any luck, lands on a beach near Liverpool, starts a wildfire, burns out Liverpool, and the parts make it look like the Chinese had a sub burst into flames on the high seas. Everyone is a winner...Clive gets rid of the leftovers, the UK intelligence services get to spend more money looking for the wrong people, China gets blamed, and Liverpool gets to rebuild.
@masskiller9206
5 жыл бұрын
@@carlwilson4425 genius.
@fuzzy1dk
6 жыл бұрын
that L shaped aluminium spacer should just have been made thicker to make room for the cable
@boydbros.3659
6 жыл бұрын
thicker and NOTCHED for the cable to pass through
@bullaniugnen
6 жыл бұрын
get one of those led light bars meant for vehicles and test it, I bought one of ebay that was advertised as 180W but when testing it with a 240W capable PSU I only got a draw of aprox. 30W. Would be interesting to get a deeper look on one of those.
@babyflurryheart9114
6 жыл бұрын
you ar the best youtuber ever its so true
@lightingbp7889
5 жыл бұрын
newest COB, more efficiency and longer life , and white light and warm light. suit for the stadium/ gas station/ big work place
@oz93666
6 жыл бұрын
A very proffessional breakdown , although it would have been more relevant to know if it can run 5 hrs without blowing , and if the power is reduced as it gets hotter
@BigClive
6 жыл бұрын
+oz93666 Power did not reduce significantly after a few hours.
@confusedkemono
6 жыл бұрын
7:42 "I'm gonna have to explode this a little bit"
@cup_and_cone
6 жыл бұрын
The second type of driverless LED you show (that you did a video on earlier this year), I had two of three 30-watt ones fail on me; I bought them from same eBay seller. They ran about 30 minutes a day for 6 months, before failing (both failed within a week of one another). The actual cob LED is what failed; I could see several dead diodes within same row. I don't think it is heat related, they were mounted in recycled flood light cases with expensive compound and everything stayed under 70 Celsius when measured. My guess is they have same issue as first generation/cheap cobs where they're poorly matched. I've got one original still working and two new replacements...will see if I get anymore failures. If I do, I'll probably buy 20 watt version.
@awmperry
6 жыл бұрын
Would those louvres be a safety issue in the rain, or is the internal waterproofing sufficient to effectively just make it water cooled?
@mattburrows2615
6 жыл бұрын
awmperry the vent holes don't go through to the interior, just from front to back of plate.
@awmperry
6 жыл бұрын
Ah, so it's a single plate? Hard to see on a small screen, looked like there could have been a cavity. Cheers!
@Draaca
4 жыл бұрын
17:30 Well...that seems like a cable fire just waiting to burn down your whole house, with best wishes from China. I was planning on buying 2 of those exact same lights (may be different name/manufacturer, I don't know, but looks EXACTLY like the one I was eyeballing on Amazon) to serve as grow lights for indoor hydroponics...am I glad you picked this thing apart, sir. I own a house and a forest, and I would rather the damn forest burned down 10 times in a row than have a fire start in my house.
@markherbert8604
6 жыл бұрын
How about putting a photocell into an oscilloscope to actually view the flicker output of LED lighting, this would demonstrate any stepped illumination of an LED matrix, or at least show the brutal flicker output of shoddy LED lights.
@raymondmucklow3793
6 жыл бұрын
Clive it's getting cold in Merica, I wished I knew a guy that could have some beenie' s stamped with a logo, that I could then purchase said beenie.
@BigClive
6 жыл бұрын
It would have to be dayglow orange or yellow.
@boydbros.3659
6 жыл бұрын
hey, I'd buy either one/both those colors, as they are "safety" colors on job sites.
@JamesPotts
6 жыл бұрын
Clive, I think you'd be pleasantly surprised at how many you'd sell. Dayglow or not.
@raymondmucklow3793
6 жыл бұрын
bigclivedotcom that would be awesome.
@JoshWeaverRC
6 жыл бұрын
I'll BigClive It! That would be my shirt.
@Catastropheshe
3 жыл бұрын
4:46 that cheerful * missed * on wild guess 😂
@johnbailey9576
6 жыл бұрын
Your videos are very reveling. Thanks for your time and information sharing.
@PeterRichardsandYoureNot
3 жыл бұрын
I wouldn’t trust the colors of the wires as to which is ground wire. You’d think it would be green, but I’ve bought some of these early version Chinese made flood lights....opened them up to check wiring, and voila. Green was one of the legs out of the driver instead of the actual ground. The ground was “glued” to the case with hot glue gun material. Danger will Robinson!
@winghwong
3 жыл бұрын
They're still selling these floodlights on aliexpress and other platforms. I wonder if zip tying a fan on the back would help to cool the chip sufficiently.
@BigClive
3 жыл бұрын
For indoor uses it would help. You could carefully drill the case for fan support pillars.
@ionstorm66
6 жыл бұрын
Wonder if they would of notched the board, and moved the cable gland down if it would all fit. Granted its just a off the shelf board.
@Enigma107
6 жыл бұрын
I bought 6 of the 'Driverless' LED floodlights, 4x10w and 2x50w, all of the 10w ones failed within 20 hours of use and one of the 50w ones after about 60 hours
@locouk
6 жыл бұрын
Do they give an expected lifespan for its illumination qualities like they do with the regular bulbs? I can’t imagine that running so hot it’ll be very long. 3 deduce’s in this video side tracked me a bit and I started thinking about Arthur Conan Doyle.
@jesuschal
6 жыл бұрын
As a layman but big enthusiast of this topic, I would like to understand the electromagnetic properties that an inductor "induces" on electricity passing thru it so it is capable of setting off phase the voltage in relation to the current. Any hint?
@RWBHere
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Clive. Another one to avoid. Reliability has to be an issue, given the heat, and with 72 LED's in each string. Only one LED needs to fail, and it will take out its parallel partner, and the device becomes a yellow display palette for two little dead flies. An MTBF of 100,000 hours per LED indicates an average expected life of around 1,400 hours, even ignoring that hot transistor, water ingress, and the dodgy cabling. That's slightly less than two months of continuous running, or under six months of eight hour nights.
@masskiller9206
5 жыл бұрын
@I IS THE DUM!!!! www.reliabilityeducation.com/ReliabilityPredictionBasics.pdf www.sqconline.com/mtbf-calculator
@masskiller9206
5 жыл бұрын
a guy above said his ran for 30 minutes a day * 30 days/month * 6 months = 2700 hours between failures not too far off lol
@AmmarAbotouk
6 жыл бұрын
I am a simple I see big Clive post I see !
@jaylittleton1
6 жыл бұрын
Thank you for another neat investigation. Unfortunately another GIPI, Good Idea Poorly Implemented.
@jcpage305
6 жыл бұрын
I have gone through approximately 5 of those led chips your comparing and they all failed after about 2 weeks of continuous use. When they fail they go very dim and/or nearly half the cob blacks out completely. I even had a grow led fail and i used such an efficient cooling system that it never got warm. Failed after 2 wks.
@yogevbocher3603
6 жыл бұрын
Glad you survived the storm ...
@slainesmith
6 жыл бұрын
Nice sound Clive.
@maicod
6 жыл бұрын
would you have refrained from taking it to bits in a non reversible manner if it was a warm white flood light ?
@BigClive
6 жыл бұрын
No. It was bought to be taken apart and wasn't up to expectations. Technically speaking I could have fitted it with a warm white driverless array.
@rrich52806
5 жыл бұрын
I am not electronically inclined buy find your videos very interesting to watch.
@ShiresMatt
6 жыл бұрын
Are those vents on the rear? Wouldn't it get rather wet?
@Andre_L
6 жыл бұрын
I got some 80W spots with drivers on board and use them every day for 2 hours....they all die after 3-4 months due to overheating, one can see the tiny black spots at the COB chip. I'm afraid they are meant to fail, 20% more cooling area would do the job....crazy world.
@greenaum
6 жыл бұрын
Only 2 hours? You can use them longer than that, even during flowering!
@AstralJaeger
6 жыл бұрын
My best guess about this integrated circuit is that is manifactured by st microelectronics but I cant find anything from there on so its a rather strange chip
@truethought2581
4 жыл бұрын
Clive, g'day bud. I have a " Bottom line, Side finder" depth gauge/ fish finder that I haven't used in a few years. I inserted the batteries and it seems to no longer work. I no longer need this unit as I have upgraded. My question is. Would you be interested in tearing it down and not only showing how it does what it does, maybe trouble shoot its issue. I no longer want this, so I'd not want it back. Free to you if you're interested. Thanks, and I really enjoy ya posts. G'day sir.
@KSWeddingDecoration93
5 жыл бұрын
I am Bangladeshi Sylhet Fenchuganj Upazila How can I get this padak How can i find ?? Very nice practice
@jeffchisamore1556
6 жыл бұрын
Is U2 an STMicroelectronics a/d converter? It's a really familiar number. Do they use a/d to make LED dimmers?
@Catastropheshe
3 жыл бұрын
It was looking surprisingly good until 16:24 😄
@iLive2Ride76
6 жыл бұрын
Great video as always and a BIG congratulation to 300k subscribers Clive.
@marcellustone
6 жыл бұрын
This calculator looks like one of your printed sheeds. 😂
@BillyNoMates1974
6 жыл бұрын
BigClive, are you planning on rebuilding that lighting fixture ? id be interested to see what you would do to that light to have it back up and running safely
@elproabhi
6 жыл бұрын
Should have drawn circuit diagram like rest videos. I guess what driver are they using there can we find the datasheet.
@xanamata5386
6 жыл бұрын
the 20watt chip last at most for 60 days of half a day (12 h ) use .
@betamax80
6 жыл бұрын
The ST Micro 8C24 is a thermal sensor destined for computer usage, used on Intel chipsets. Does that sound down the right path?
@wavecreatures
6 жыл бұрын
Brilliant Clive!
@russellhltn1396
6 жыл бұрын
I love the fact it has a MOV to protect it against voltage spikes, but I didn't see what protection they had if it shorts out. Are the traces thin enough to act like a fuse?
@BigClive
6 жыл бұрын
From destructive LED tests I found that the LED bond wires blow like fuses and the arc is contained by the phosphor loaded gel.
@russellhltn1396
6 жыл бұрын
I don't think that will help if the MOV shorts. I believe there's been a few fires started by power strips where the MOV overheated before they figured out they need to add thermal fuses touching the MOV.
@BigClive
6 жыл бұрын
Ah, I misread your post. The track or supply fuse would fail.
@russellhltn1396
6 жыл бұрын
Против Глобал, that's what I don't like about capacitive dropper - because spikes are high frequency, those go right though.
@biozgamer5445
Жыл бұрын
7:40 that orange circular object looks like a pptcd (polymeric positive temperature coefficient device) or... well, a resettable fuse
@biozgamer5445
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Clive, I enjoy your videos thoroughly. They actually help me learn alot about what to stay away from and how different circuits work!
@johnathan5515
6 жыл бұрын
Love your videos, particularly the ones where you uncover fake and dangerous unit. I bought the new Riddex Quad pest repeller which turned out to have the same circuit as the one you tested a while ago, a complete waste of money.
@thehappylittlefoxakabenji8154
6 жыл бұрын
cool but is it safe outside in the rain ? or is foxy going to fry again
@bjtaudio
6 жыл бұрын
The cable entry is not sealed properly and the cores are being crushed, heat-sink compound not spread and board is not making full contact with heat-sink , water will find its way in and destroy the board. Also the strain relief on cable is adequate, i bet the cable insulation is not fully complaint either. I'm not buying them.
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