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What makes a dead white wine?
00:00 Introduction
01:30 Color Analysis
03:22 Aroma Analysis
04:25 Structure Analysis
06:22 Summary and Conclusion
Yesterday, I opened an 8-year old Juhfark for a Hungarian wine tasting. Juhfark is a rare grape variety from the Nagy-Somloi region, known for its volcanic soil, high acidity, complexity, and longevity. Unfortunately, this example did not live up to this, happens to the best.
The color of the wine shows brownish hints, very oxidized and this is a total normal process. Just think of an apple that you cut in two and let remain on the kitchen table, it will turn brown after one or two days. Same with wine after some time in the bottle.
The nose revealed lovely tertiary aromas, baked apple, hay, ginger, but also immediately something that should make one suspect. With some experience and time, one simply smells immediately whether a white wine is dead or not.
But at the end, it is the structure that is telling the end of the story. In this example, the wine totally lacked acidity. It is a normal thing that over time, the acidity in a wine is reducing. But it should never reach a point where you are in doubt whether there is any acidity left in a wine. At that stadium, the wine is simply dead and you have to accept. It is the fate of nature.
A teachable lesson for the participants of the tasting!
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