CORRECTION: I made a mistake in the slicer settings for Unified Bed Leveling. You need to add either M420 S1 or G29 A before the G29 L0 command. So the start G-Code should look something like this: ;Load Saved Mesh M420 S1; Activate Mesh Leveling G29 L0; Load Saved Mesh G29 J2; Probe 4 Points and Adjust the mesh I will have to note that when I make the video for Unified vs Bilinear Mesh
@rickyhackett6703
3 жыл бұрын
where do i put the g28 command
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
@@rickyhackett6703 G28 Should already be in your start gcode. You put the Load saved mesh gcodes after that. If it is not in your start g-code, it goes after set bed/extruder temp gcodes or before the purge/prime line gcodes
@sotyson3833
3 жыл бұрын
For manual mesh leveling i need use only GCODE M420 S1 ???
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
@@sotyson3833 correct
@rickmann5227
3 жыл бұрын
In CHEP's video he puts in the gcode. Then he explains that he looked over the source code of the firmware and it shows that it automatically loads the saved mesh if leveling is checked. He said the gcode lines are not necessary but that the redundancy will not hurt. I guess I will still do both. Thanks for the video.
@derbymartinez8460
3 жыл бұрын
This is the best guide i've found. Really appreciate your time and effort on this
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you! I lost count of how many times I flashed the firmware lol
@koent7788
7 ай бұрын
This is explained so well and clearly. More people should take this as an example of how to give a good explanation of how something works. Thank you very much.
@chinapaulo
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for showing how to do the multicolor prints with the M600 command. Perfect.
@EthanJBarnard
Жыл бұрын
This is the best walk through I've seen on the Jyers software, thank you for making such a detailed video! **One note, I ended up putting my G29 code after the bed warm up command, so that the bed is warm when it goes to take a mesh!
@kathleenrobertpogue6818
Жыл бұрын
Liked and commenting for the algorithm. I was putting in key words and it still took forever to stumble on this video.
@maar3250
2 жыл бұрын
Great video! Clear, structured and straight to the point. You saved my backside because I was quite frustrated with the stock marlin firmware. The live z offset and the manual bed levelling feature helped me a lot with setting up my BLtouch. Thank you too, to Jyers who designed such an elegant firmware. 👍👍👍
@mathewtwomey1309
2 жыл бұрын
By far the most comprehensive, and helpful guide I have seen. Excellent work mate!
@Ben-br5bi
2 жыл бұрын
This is insanely helpful! Thanks for putting in the time and effort, man!
@michaelhenderson5098
Жыл бұрын
Thank you. Very helpful for a newbie like me. I just installed it on an Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.7 board, digital screen display (knob) and the CR Touch. It's printing right now. First layer looks perfect.
@daveeatmon4718
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the well explained video! I'm new to 3D printing and you made it so understandable and in-depth! Good stuff!!
@Hashman10001
3 жыл бұрын
I now have confidence to upgrade the firmware. thank you
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
Thats awesome to hear. If you have any questions or run into any problems, feel free to reach out and I'll try to help.
@Smedleydog1
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much for this tutorial on Jyers firmware. You explained a couple of issues I had questions about that will help me pick the best version for me. You gained a sub.
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the feedback and sub. I'm glad this video was able to help. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out
@g-ready1887
2 жыл бұрын
Within the 1st 5 minutes I've learn alot. I cant wait to muster up the courage to update my firmware. I tried once and failed miserably lol went back to stock firmware but I can tell you this watching videos like these gets me closer to actually getting this done
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
If you run into any trouble, feel free to reach out through one of my pages
@g-ready1887
2 жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting i will brotha thank you i just put a dual extruder with the Capricorn tubing , calibrated e steps ... that was fun but I nailed it lol now I'm getting stringing so I have a temp tower running now looks like 190° on the nozzle works best next ill do the retraction tower then ill give you guys a holla when I'm ready for that firmware 😎👍
@maar3250
2 жыл бұрын
Hi again Evan, Thank you again for your help for putting together this video. However, I do have a question regarding z-offset. I have installed Jyers Marlin v2.0.1 with BLTouch 3x3 grid. The problem that I think I have is: Nozzle z-height during first layer print is approximately 0.4mm above the print surface. Here's the steps that I did: 1. set an arbritary z-offset value that allow my nozzle to be close to the bed to do "manual bed leveling". Used your bed leveling pattern to achieve good tramming. 2. Set z-offset using the live-z-offset feature from the "prepare" menu. I use 0.2mm feeler gauge to achieve my desired z-offset. The value i obtained was -1.15mm 3. Saved the z-offset value 4. revisited "manual bed leveling" from prepare menu to cross check if all 5 points have similar nozzle-to-bed clearance using my 0.2 feeler gauge. Here's the chronology of my first 'bed leveling squares' print (appropriate starting gcode was added in cura. G29 was added after G28) 1. started print, BLTouch was probing the bed as expected 2. First and second line was drawn. 3. Upon starting the first square, I noticed that the filament was not sticking/squished at all. 4. Paused the print 5. use a feeler gauge to find the nozzle clearance. I found 0.4mm feeler gauge to fit snugly. My follow up bed-leveling-square print job was done with live-z-offset tuning. The final z-offset that I achieved was -1.35. I repeated the print again with the new z-offset value and was able to have similar result. When I rehome the print head and move the z height to "0", my nozzle just touches the print bed with close to 0.04mm clearance... Now... I am confused, what is the right definition of z-offset? hahahah. Was my z-offset methodology wrong? or is it my slicer setting that is incorrect? I am lost. Any pointer would be great. Been scouring the web and reddit but to no avail :( Oh, I also reflased the firmware with other Jyers Marlin firmware (except the UBL) Thank you so much in advanced Evan.
@maar3250
2 жыл бұрын
Btw, do I need to add the thickness of the feeler gauge (or paper) to the z-offset value? I have seen some video outlining that step during z-offset calibration. kzitem.info/news/bejne/2pVnsZtqbnOBnqQ
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
Simply put, the z-offset is the distance between the nozzle tip and the bltouch probe tip in the vertical direction. Z offset has no bearing on manual leveling. When you manual level the bed, all you are doing is tramming the bed to be parallel to the x axis linear rail. The rail that the printhead moves on. You should manual level your bed after you set the actual z offset value. When setting the z-offset, you are correct that you use the live z-offset adjust in the prepare menu. But I would suggest not using a 0.2mm feeler gauge for this. I understand the reasoning, since people often use a 0.2mm first layer height, they think a 0.2mm z feeler gauge should work, but I have found, and it seems so have you, that when using a 0.2mm feeler gauge that it is not quite close enough to get the required squish for the first layer. I would suggest using paper to set the zoffset. This works every time for me. You want the paper to be snug, but not buckle when you try to move it. The final z-offset value will depend on a few factors. But Just to give you a reference point, My printers z offset values range from 1.2mm up to 2.4mm. It all depends on the bltouch mounting set up you go with. Homing the printer takes the printer to its Z-safe home position. This position is whatever position is set in the firmware. This will position should not have the nozzle touching the print bed. There should be enough clearance for the bltouch probe tip to safely, and fully deploy without hitting the print bed.
@maar3250
2 жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting alrighty, followed your advice on using paper instead and it worked 😁. And yes I did use a 0.2mm feeler gauge on the basis of first layer height. I did that because I felt that a piece of paper have different thickness depending on the paper GSM (the higher the GSM, the thicker the paper), so I thought by using a feeler gauge, I would circumvent the variable of different paper thickness. Anyhow, paper worked and I'm sticking to this methodology. Thank you again for your prompt response. Wishing you a successful channel and am looking forward to more videos from you Ps. Am using your fusion360 exercise video to polish my fusion360 skill. 👍
@lukasmatzinger
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this guide and the providing the matching G-Code, made my firmware update pretty easy to follow and turned my Ender V2 into a new machine!
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the kind feedback. I'm glad you had success!
@exozeds
2 жыл бұрын
My BLTouch has just arrived in the post and this tutorial is a really quick and simple way at setting it up, thanks!
@raspberrypiploy771
2 жыл бұрын
Wow what a brilliant video, have achieved so much from this so now I need to retry my levelling which I am hoping will now be successful. You explain things so well, very clear and most importantly in a language that's not scientific but easy for us newbies ... Thankyou so much
@Defyant123
3 жыл бұрын
Ive 4 of these and life just got a hell of lot better for me after watching this. Amazing stuff tyvm by far the best guide yet ! SUBB'D :)
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you! Jyers Firmware definitely made my life a lot easier. It made the E3v2 a lot more consistent and fail prints way less often
@nike12000haha
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for doing an in-depth dive have not seen too many of those
@01928374655
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks, just successfully updated the firmware. Mainly to get the filament run out sensor support
@NateG82
3 жыл бұрын
Just great info. First guide I found that covered it all.
@Mr.Titanium1911
3 жыл бұрын
Very informative, as I just heard of Jyers as I'm looking to flash my E5Pro with the v4.2.2 board (CR Touch).
@kinghuzi
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for making this guide. Saved me a lot of googling.
@obe22099
2 жыл бұрын
Me playing around with the new firmware and Ui. Played with the Z offset settings and watched the nozzle ignore the glass barrier like it was air. I had no idea those stepper motors have the torque of a wild Karen charging towards a innocent manager.
@bmcarden87
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks about to upgrade and found this to be the best video. Good work.
@noisy_boi_fpv_3920
3 жыл бұрын
Very nicely put together tutorial many many thanks. You really took the time with this one best Ive seen yet. Up and running now. Maybe you could simplify the g code side but very good never the less.
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the feedback. I did get a little talkative in the gcode section. I just tried to be as thorough as possible.
@noisy_boi_fpv_3920
3 жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting no no you where brilliant its not a fault by any means. Just that showing 2 examples was a little miss leading is all. Please keep it up. Best ive watched yet 100%.
@GreenAppelPie
3 жыл бұрын
The 2 thing I wish they would add is linear advance and independent colors for the x,y and z.
@brentvegas
2 жыл бұрын
Great video and great timestamps and links. Thanks for your efforts. Sounds like a Nawlin's accent...takes one to know one. Keep up the good work...sub.
@brentvegas
2 жыл бұрын
I'm struggling to compile the Jyers firmware with my larger bed size 12"x24"x8.25" (305mm x 610mm x 210mm). I can't get it to work from my compile. Any chance I could pay you to build it for me? Running Ender 3 V2 4.2.2. board. BLT, ideally High Speed 15x15. Also, struggling with DWIN_SET file, too. Have a part for work need to print out ASAP. Not sure if the offset for the BLT would have to be adjusted. For expanding the X-axis I just added 80mm in total. Thanks...
@Mike-gt1gp
2 жыл бұрын
Great video, really helpful. had all the info i was looking for. thank you
@jbuckholt
2 жыл бұрын
how do i know if my 4.2.2 board is working my bltouch stopped working after upgrading and yes i tried going back and tried different stock ones but now my touch is no longer working. is there anyway to check the board
@jakethesnake1245
Жыл бұрын
So we actually downloaded the ubl 15x15 mesh vs for the ender 3 v2 neo. And had to revert it back to creality software because of bugs. The biggest one being the z offset wouldn't change when you were changing it. It wouldn't always not work but when it did, I'd have to shut off the printer and turn it back on for it to work. Then it moved our Y and Z values way to the right. Granted, we did fix the axis issue by manually entering the mm it was off by then doing test prints, vut the z axis offset was a pain. I really wanted to keep jyers because of the ubl mesh was so cool just wasnt worth the z offset changing randomly and not being able to adjust it half of the time
@EB3DPrinting
Жыл бұрын
Yeah, I'm not sure this is updated for the newer Creality printers. I don't even know if it is still under development.
@jakethesnake1245
Жыл бұрын
@EB3D Printing i didnt even think to consider that. Thanks. If you have any other firmware you think would work for the ender 3v2 neo and make or have made a video it. Id love to learn about it
@EB3DPrinting
Жыл бұрын
@@jakethesnake1245 I know there are at least two, there is like and ender 3 "professional firmware" and another one that starts with an M. Being completely honest though, I do not use any marlin based firmware any more so I'm not up to date on the latest offerings.
@jakethesnake1245
Жыл бұрын
@EB3D Printing well i appreciate the help bud. Ice only been printing for less than a month. Run into one prob at a time with this thing haha. First it the bed wasnt staying level and the extruder was rubbing on the infill on travel moves, taking out any small supports after about a hour into the build. So i bought new springs and that didn't help then bought a second z axis rod and motor after noticing the gantry sagged to the right and that seem to help the bed level situation and the loud rubbing against the infill but its still knocking over small supports. The x axis gantry is level, checked my extrusion and even printed a calibration cube which printed at 20mm on the z, 19.9 on x and 20.1 on y which from looking it up said wasnt all bad. If you have any suggestions im all ears im trynot to turn on z hop cause of all the other bad that comes with that
@SoggyCashew
2 жыл бұрын
My printers display will not update the progress bar or times remaining using OctoPrint. I have read the Wiki and have entered the lines of code from that page under OctoPrint settings but the screen still doesn't move through an entire print. Ideas on why? Thank You for the excellent tutorial....
@BeckmanCoulter2013
2 жыл бұрын
I love the video it is very edcational. where can I find the Raspberry Pi case you have on the left side of the printer? Thanks
@dlabrie
Жыл бұрын
Great video! Thanks. I have been running JyersUI v2.0.1 with 3x3 mesh leveling on my Ender 3 v2 printer (4.2.2 board) along with the updated screen firmware. I have ordered a BLTouch to add to my printer. I assume I need to re-flash my Ender firmware with - E3V2-BLTouch-3x3-v4.2.2-v2.0.1.bin, will I have to re flash the updated screen?
@chrisshaw451
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this as I am considering adding the Jyers firmware.
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
It's a well worth upgrade, even if you don't have a bltouch. Manual mesh leveling is a game changer
@iSupermanCKi
3 жыл бұрын
After doing this my printer will no longer home the Z Axis. I have the BL Touch upgrade and everything was working fine before. I even tried reverting back to the old firmware and it's still not doing anything. I also tried disconnecting the BL Touch and installing the non BL Touch firmware and it still won't home Z. It will let me manually move Z up in settings, but it won't go down. Any ideas? I've had the printer for about a year. So I don't think it's a wiring or physical setup issue.
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
The first question I have is do you have a single white connector bltouch or a two connector bltouch? Check this guide to make sure your BLTouch Wiring is correct. smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/
@sauroghirlanda2781
2 жыл бұрын
Thank You for Your usedul tutorial! I successfully installed the firmware on my ender3v2 equibbed with 4.2.2 motherboard and i think it's features are awesome. Unfortunately when printing extruder seems to move extremely fast, despite the stoeed values appears to be exactly the same as stock firmware. I saw that this issue is already being reported but not yet fixed. I reinstall stock firmware but look forward to the fix to install it again.
@ManuelRochaSA
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for a great tutorial, already did changed, works great, however got a question, when you change the G start code, i`m use CURA, do I have to put ; before the code? Thanks Man keep up the good work.
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
The ; means comment, so anything after the ; is ignored by the printer. All you need to add to you start gcode is either: G29 Or M420 S1
@justinbartolijr.2861
2 жыл бұрын
Just a heads up, might have already been mentioned. There is a F10 code in the cura settings after the M420 S1 command. The prusa settings are correct with the M420 S1 only. thanks for the vid.
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
You're right, I didnt catch that. Thanks for pointing that out. The video was getting quite long and I started to try and rush things.
@bitsfornoobs5166
2 жыл бұрын
I love the video, it's nice to see someone take the time to drill down and go more in-depth with content in general. It can definitely be confusing trying to decide which is the correct firmware to use. I understand that making sure you have the correct version mainboard and select the version with the BL touch (if you have it). But then you have versions of jyers out there that talk about bug fixes. It's still not clear to me which version to download for the Ender 3 V2 4.2.2. with BL Touch. I am currently running the bug fix version and I couldn't tell you more than that at the moment because I am in the middle of a print. Also, I haven't flashed the screen yet. Does it really matter? I seem to have all of the functions from just flashing the mainboard. I am also still confused about the leveling. So I created a new mesh, I have adjusted the Z offset and I can see where the bed is off by viewing the mesh. I go around and manually adjust the z offset through the interface where the bed is off. My question is, will I ever need to use the wheels under the hotbed to make any adjustments going forward? I think that's the part that confuses me still. I appreciate your videos and any assistance provided. I just shared all of your links with another enthusiast on Reddit haha hope I didn't confuse him too much, but he was having lots of problems with the creality update with BL touch that he just installed. Thank you
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
First. You don't need to flash the display, that's only if you want the fancy, but unnecessary icons. Second. The bed mesh tells you the highs and lows of the bed, green means high, red means low. Ideally you want you highest point and lowest point to be within 0.2mm of each other. As far as which version, I would suggest the bilinear 5x5 mesh. I run the high speed version. UBL is cool and all, but I feel it's overly complicated for as small of a bed as the ender 3 has.
@bitsfornoobs5166
2 жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting v
@hobbit04
2 жыл бұрын
hey, thanks for the video. Which duct are you using? is it very silent? The stock one is hair dryer loud.
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
Fan Duct www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296
@hermannel1310
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this video. It is starting to explain some of the Jyers secrets. Is there anywhere a full explanation of all his menu items? For example, one can set print speed to a number, say 80. So what is 80 then, 80mm/s, 80% or what? If it is 80%, then 80% of what? I can see that the Jyers firmware has great potential but the lack of explanations and definitions makes it very difficult to work with. Anybody that can direct us to such a document or site?
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
Jyers is just a fork of Marlin firmware tailored to work with the Creality Ender 3v2. There is plenty of documentation on Marlin firmware out there. For a deep dive: marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd_menu.html You can also search for Marlin Display Menu Items To answer your question. Print speed on the menu is a multiplyer of the current feature print speed. E.g. your wall speed is set to 40mm/s and infill set to 80mm/s. If your menu is displaying 50 for speed, that means it is printing at 50% of the requested speed. Your print walls are printing at 20mm/s and infill is printing at 40mm/s Fan speed is a direct %. 10% fan speed is 10%. Flow rate is also a multiplyer % but the displayed value can differ depending on the slicer used. Slicers that use a % value for flow typically display that %, and slicers that use a decimal value typically display 100%
@user-qn6zs5uv2z
Жыл бұрын
Hello.Please help me with the choice of firmware on my printer, My motherboard version 4.2.2 is also equipped with filament sensor Touch sensors , which firmware should I choose specifically for my motherboard . My TFT display. How to flash the display to work with my motherboard. thank you in advance
@teodoreoakleaf2537
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this video! Just the education I needed. :) I don't know if you mentioned it but when flashing the display your SD card should be as small as possible. I had to put my 32GB in a 8GB partion or else the display went to red directly after power on and then fail the flashing. And it has to be in FAT32. :P
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
I did not mention this. But this can also be a problem for some older mainboards as well. Where the limit to the SD card size is 8gb. Thanks for pointing this oit
@kitbadger2424
3 жыл бұрын
Love your mainboard & psu covers, could I be cheeky and ask where you acquired the stl or step files from please?
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
PSU Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822648 Main board Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653994
@reinhardplietsch9707
3 жыл бұрын
Wow, what a nice piece of work. I am running the btt E3 2.0 motherboard now, thus wondering how I can get some kind of diff files to remix this GUI package into my existing firmware based on BigTechTree...?
@AHandleOnThings
3 жыл бұрын
I absolutely love the Jyers firmware but I am unable to "up the temp range" to 315 for my V2 printer and then get it to compile in VStudio for some reason. Has anyone compiled a BLtouch plus hotter temps that I can get? Thanks
@millz88fzr
3 жыл бұрын
I have the same problem. Hoping someone can show us how to complie files for jyers firmware so I can print at higher temps.
@Moonsauc3
2 жыл бұрын
Can you explain what z point offset is, under leveling/manual tuning/z point offset? It differs from the common z offset under prepare. I can't find any information on what this setting does
@JoeStanfordDoughty
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much. I actually hadnt used my printer for almost 9 months because I had given up on the bl touch, I had tried so many firmwares. Any suggestions on why after bl touch levelling the right side of my bed the nozzle is higher and the left side is lower? I can see it squishing the material on the left, and on the right it wont stick....
@Merc-ws9zh
2 ай бұрын
In my advanced menu load length is 100, is this in mm and is that the amount that is extruded when I go to prepare, change filament and then load filament, calculating e steps and need to know, thanks. 01
@WazheadBoci
3 жыл бұрын
This was extremely helpful thank you for the video :)
@cjsawinski
2 жыл бұрын
I thought jyers also raised your hotend limit to 300c?? Mine is still at 260c…. I don’t yet have an all metal hot end but when I do get one how do I go about raising the limit of the hot end temps?
@Don-xy8cy
2 жыл бұрын
Has anyone had a "SD INIT FAIL" when updating the Display firmware? Im on a Mac however the SD card is formatted as FAT 32
@billnash8756
Жыл бұрын
when I try to update to the Jyers Firmware, the screen is stuck on the Clarity Text with the dots and lines. Have I done something wrong?
@austinscholten8185
2 жыл бұрын
any idea why it wont flash to my display for the new icons? I have the firmware on the sd card and when I plug it in to the back of the display and turn it on it just loads the screen like normal?
@Mark-bx7mw
2 жыл бұрын
Afrer flashing the display, my screen goes ORANGE as planned but stays orange. How long should it stay orange? If I turn it off while its orange and follow the steps, I still cannot get the boot screen. Thank you again for the great video
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
After you insert the SD card into the back of the display, power on the printer, screen should go from blue to orange, as you stated. After the screen turns orange, power off the printer, Remove the SD card from the back of the display at this point. After removing the SD card, power on the printer again and the display should be successfully flashed
@rickmccaskill7888
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for such a complete review. Could you let me know what firmware I would use on a 4.2.2 board with both the BLTouch and a filament runout sensor installed? Thank you for any help you can provide. Thank you.
@ibraim.madeira
2 жыл бұрын
Does anyone know if it is compatible with the 4.2.2 board with GigaDevice GD32F303 RET6 CPU? The newer 3 v2 enders come with this cpu and not the STM32F303.
@georgesirmalenios8754
3 жыл бұрын
Why do you need to update the display firmware? I never did and it works well? Am I missing something?
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
Correct, you do not necessarily need to. It is mainly if you want to unlock display customization options.
@mwms9872
2 жыл бұрын
This is a GREAT VIDEO
@GreenAppelPie
3 жыл бұрын
For preheat, I use 175/50 just so filament isn’t oozing out while I’m try to level
@papa_oso
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot, buddy! Liked & suscribed
@selimeryol3038
3 жыл бұрын
i have intention bl touch 5x5 v4.2.2 but x bed size 225 y bed size 235 z max pos 400
@JayyKilz
2 жыл бұрын
Know anything about the Swiss direct drive edits such as firmware and code? (Jyers)
@rustyus7739
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for great video!
@ozziesoto2955
2 жыл бұрын
Awesome tutorial!!
@madorax251
3 жыл бұрын
does 3dtouch work properly on jeyrs Fw and how is it installed, are 5 wires of 3dtouch connected to the bltouch pin on the board or 3 wires attached to the bltouch pin and 2 wires to the Z end stop pin?
@ianwilliams4719
2 жыл бұрын
Hi. Great video thanks. Slightly off topic but how did you make those printed parts for the fans underneath please. They look loads better than the small internal fans
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
Here are the links to those files: PSU Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822648 Main board Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653994
@AgnosiaAgnosis
2 жыл бұрын
So, my e3v2 has 3DFUSED linear rails... and it's homing the opposite ways off of home... with th3d though... maybe I can try this? I'm told the XY offset can't be positive and that I need manual hardware solution. Any advice?
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
You could try something like this marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html
@ericphalin85
Жыл бұрын
Can someone please help me? I have to be doing something wrong. I installed the Sprite Pro Kit on my Ender3V2 and didnt know I needed to update any firmware. I have since done so with the JyersUI using this video and another I found. For some reason thought when I did it it changes the bed size from 220x220 to 230x230 I have tried adjusting probe offsets along with home offsets but it seems like no matter what when it goes to do the leveling the probe ends up off the bed. 5 min ago this happened and the nozzle hit the bed and cracked it so now I'm just over trying until I can find some more insight. This has been a 2 day process so far..........Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!
@EB3DPrinting
Жыл бұрын
Unfortunately jyers firmware wasn't designed to work with the sprite extruder. The 230x230nis due to the bed actually being 235x235, it increases the limits of the print area, you can safely print up to 230x230. If your probe is going off the bed, your offsets are not correct. Make sure you have you x/y directions correct as far as +/- goes
@marcosmoura911
3 жыл бұрын
I have the same blower design. Really good
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
It is a good design, I had to modify it a bit though for the 5015. The lower part that the screws go into to hold the fan broke. So I beefed that up a bit and made the 5015 sort of snap in now as well.
@waynefilkins8394
2 жыл бұрын
How do I know if it's using the mesh? That check box was off after one of my prints...does the line of code added to the machine in cura turn it on even if that check box isn't checked?
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
As long as the code you have in cura is correct, it will use the saved mesh.
@Jefflanoue
2 жыл бұрын
Do you know if newer boards are compatable with older version s of Jyers Firmware? My Ender 3 V2 shipped with a 4.3.1 version board.
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
It appears so. The board version that is supported should be in the title of the firmware. I don't use jyers anymore, so you'd have to look it up on the GitHub page
@gabrielrosewood3257
2 жыл бұрын
Great video! My display has been really laggy ever since I installed it, any ideas why?
@cjsawinski
2 жыл бұрын
Does the size of the sd card matter?? The smallest one I have is 16g… I have the 8g that came with the printer but would rather not use that as it’s got all my stuff on it already. Got a blank 16g sitting doing nothing
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
Yes, it can affect installation. I would go ahead and say the 16gb would be fine for a firmware flash, just make sure it is formatted to FAT32.
@matthewcardoza4622
2 жыл бұрын
does anyone else have an issue where the nozzle cools down while the printer runs the G29 command? I use a 3x3 normal speed mesh from the Marlin 2.0.8 firmware. Wondering if that is still an issue on 5x5 high speed Jyers firmware or if I should try the M420 S1 command? Thanks
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
This is more than likely not a firmware issue but more of a start gcode in the slicer issue.
@matthewcardoza4622
2 жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting Thanks, I'll look into that. Do you have a reference you would recommend?
@tripacer64p
3 жыл бұрын
Need some help I guess. Tried to upgrade firmware first the screen firmware put what I thought on my chip plugged into screen mini card port and turned it on and it came up with the Crealty screen. After that nothing. Trying to go to Jyeres
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
When you download the Jyers Zip folder from github, after extracting it. Go into Display firmware > Firmware Sets > copy the DWIN_SET (name) folder to your sd card. After copying it to your SD card, Rename it to just DWIN_SET. Then eject it from your computer. When flashing the firmware, put the sd card into the back of the display. If you did it right, when you flash the display firmware, the screen will go from blue, to orange. After that happens, power off the printer, take the SD card out of the back of the display, then turn on the printer again.
@Ty-sy3nn
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video, helped me out very well. Where can I find the stl for your fan/cooler?
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
Here is the Fan Shroud that is in the video: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296
@pauls6886
3 жыл бұрын
Within the menu under “motion” there are x,y & z values. Are these the actual e-step values? Ie M92 values.
@DarshanRayate1
3 жыл бұрын
Issue with Jyers 1.3.1 to 1.3.4 I have used this firmware I do Filament change for 2 time using pause at height from cura but in 6 of 10 prints printers crashed It starts continue beeppp..... sound and show Print killled .....😟 this happen After I have changed the Filament and I try restart the printer and my print starts from 0% 1st layer It was working ok but from last week this issue is occurring Another issue is if printer is stopped for Filament change at cordinates xy 40 mm using cura pause at height While printing it goes to 40,40 xy within a second come to layer height and waits for pause time and when I press start print then.it moves the novel I side the printed object and touches the bed
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
You are not alone my friend. For this video, I used 1.3.2. In the M600 section of the video, the filament change option was clearly working, but something happened to where it does not work any more. the filament does not go through the unload process. If you manually change the filament, it then goes through the fast load process, purges the filament, then unloads the filament before it continues to print. I have tried multiple different jyers firmwares, Cura 4.8, 4.9.1, PrusaSlicer, and IdeaMaker and can not seem to get the M600 working properly.
@ahmedbadran4427
3 жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting I have boughtbltouch...I started all the steps as u said but I can't pass z offset The nozzle keep moving down I believe it could damage something
@autorepairbymike1356
3 жыл бұрын
So if you do say a 5x5 mesh with a PEI sheet and save it to EEPROM then do a M420 in Prusa Slicer (slicer that I use) then Print your part then want to switch to a powder coat sheet you then have to do another mesh and save to EEPROM? What I'm getting at is you need to do a mesh for each build surface that you use? Last question is does it make sense to have the bed level knobs more on the tighter side to avoid them loosening when printing?
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
For a 5x5 mesh, I just run a new one before every print. It takes less than a minute to complete, so for me it's not worth risking a failed print. For bed springs, you want them on the tighter side that way the bed doesnt move and there is enough tension between the threads of the bolts and the threads of the knobs. This ensures the knobs wont back off over time.
@autorepairbymike1356
3 жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting how do you change how many points are leveled during a mesh?
@At0maly
2 жыл бұрын
what do I do when the display doesn't flash blue to orange, instead just shows the normal menu?
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
Double check and make sure your SD card is formatted correctly
@raspberrypiploy771
2 жыл бұрын
What am I doing wrong ?? :-( I achieve everything in the video and set my probe x y offsets. But when I try to level with either firmware version 3x3 or 5x5 it fails to complete. Every time in get to position 3 or position 5 (front right corner) the cr touch doesn't register, it goes down but not far enough for the needle to trigger the head then moves up and it says levelling complete when in fact it isn't. Your video is the best I have found but I am totally stuck. Im hoping you may have an idea and if you could offer a suggestion I would be so grateful. Its getting very close to being thrown through my lounge window lol Thanks
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
When you home the printer before leveling. does it go to the middle of the bed correctly?
@primero2904
3 жыл бұрын
I can't use my filament sensor with this firmware, screen is freeze and can't control when i put filament in this sensor, and normal when i put out 😒
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
Jyers did not compile this firmware to work with a filament run out sensor unfortunately
@ArisMelachroinos
2 жыл бұрын
You are the best
@GreenAppelPie
3 жыл бұрын
Huh, I never updated the firmware on my screen and it works absolutely fine. I think the icons look a little different though.
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
You do not need to update the screen firmware to get it to work. It's only necessary if you want to updated icons
@cesarzevallos9070
3 жыл бұрын
Hi,this is great video, but I need to know how to start with the bed. Before doing the auto bed leveling with the BLTouch and the new firmware how should the 4 leveling knobs below the bed need to be set?
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
Just in luck, I uploaded a new video covering this subject. kzitem.info/news/bejne/rad6vKegn197faw
@jack.seymour
2 жыл бұрын
good stuff dude
@vhanda99
2 жыл бұрын
Amazing. Thank you 🙏🏾
@Guido-cm2ow
2 жыл бұрын
Great video, but I got a question because I bought Creality Bltouch V1.4 but when I install the Bltouch version of jyers firmware the autolevel doesn´t work, but with the crealities firmware it works perfectly, idk if im choosing bad the version of the jyers firmware, can you help me very quick? Thank for the video btw
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
From my memory, jyers firmware was mainly for the ender 3 v2 that came with the v4.2.2 or v4.2.4 boards. So that could explain why it isn't working
@Guido-cm2ow
2 жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting Yes, i got the ender 3 v2 with 4.2.2 board but the bltouch is V1, srry if i explained badly, english is not my native language
@HakanCezayirli
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your guide.
@kbshah
2 жыл бұрын
Can this firmware be loaded on an Ender 3 with a 427 board, a CR Touch & creality touchscreen like the one on V2?
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
I'm not 100% certain this firmware supports the touch screen
@akudanpensil
2 жыл бұрын
How to pause height with jyers do I need to use BQ(M25) or Using Marlin (MO)
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
M25 for 32 bit boards(4.2.2 or 4.27)
@feaseytony
3 жыл бұрын
Great video many thanks, now fully upgraded, Just one question, in Cura machine settings you recommended using G29 for each print, I totally agree with that as I have added a magnetic pei bed to my e3v2 and there is no way that it goes back in the same place after every print. However, with the previous firmware (Smiths 3d for blt), which uses Bilinear levelling, I added M500 after g29 and then M420 S1 to use that saved mesh would that be appropriate in this firmware application? Thanks
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
M500 certainly doesnt hurt. It just saves the mesh to eeprom. But since you are building a new mesh with every print, saving the mesh becomes a bit redundant. I would keep it in the start gcode if you already have it there.
@feaseytony
3 жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting Hi, thanks for the quick response I take the point and will remove the M500 etc. Keep up the good work!!
@MultiRoberth123
3 жыл бұрын
Can I use BLTouch bin file even that I'm using a CRTouch?, Do I need to adjust anything else?
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
I believe they are essentially the same so you should be able to use the bltouch file
@brucevanessen8568
2 жыл бұрын
Hi EB3D I have a question please, I have the G29 command in my gcode for auto bed levelling with my CRTouch and a 5 x 5 grid. Do I need the M420 S1 command after the G29 ????? or will it still work without this M420 S1 command
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
No, you only need M420 S1 when loading a saved mesh from EEPROM
@brucevanessen8568
2 жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting Thank you for your prompt response........ and a great video, I have watched it a number of times.
@borolo222
3 жыл бұрын
thanks man, nice explanation. Can you provide links to PSU and motherboard covers? They look really cool.
@EB3DPrinting
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the feedback. Here are the STLs Main board: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653994 PSU: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822648 To get the same look, make sure to have 0 top and 0 bottom layers.
@borolo222
3 жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting Thank you for your time.
@MyDailyEcho
2 жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting Thank you, I wanted to ask for a link to every upgrade you've printed for your Ender. Looks amazing. Thank you for the great content!
@charlesrestivo870
2 жыл бұрын
So I installed this when I did it had a bug reguarding the length of the file name .So I switched to the Smith firmware but I missed the jyers options So I switched back when I saw that jyers had corrected that bug. but what I'm noticing is one of the of my sd cards continues to show smith firmware ?
@EB3DPrinting
2 жыл бұрын
The firmware file stays on the SD card. The way to tell which firmware is on the printer is to hit the "info" button on the main screen or if you have a bltouch, go to Control>Info and that will show you the firmware name and version. When loading new firmware make sure to change it to a unique file name. Then remove the firmware files from the SDcard
@charlesrestivo870
2 жыл бұрын
Thought between smith and jyers there was enough of a name difference .So the firmware dosent actually load on the machines board I'm confused sorry .
@serialshitposter186
Жыл бұрын
im having issues with the display flashing. i formated the card and i flash it just like you did but all i get is a blue screen, then orage screen and that stays. or sometimes i just get standard loading screen and nothing happens.
@EB3DPrinting
Жыл бұрын
If it's blue, then flashes orange, you did the flash correctly. Just take the sd card out at that point. You won't see much change with display flashing unless you went with a different icon theme
@serialshitposter186
Жыл бұрын
@@EB3DPrinting i just went with default. I haven’t flashed the mainboard firmware yet. The info section does not mention any change
@serialshitposter186
Жыл бұрын
you were right. i noticed no change, i installed the "CUSTOM" pack and it worked. thanks. awesome tutorial though :D
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