Another awesome video that makes what you have read in the workshop manual easy to follow with extreme accuracy. Thanks.
@microm4n
3 жыл бұрын
An hour long? Amazing, I'll be watching all of this and part 1 before my own gearbox rebuild 😅
@steamwally
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Yes I managed to get it down to an hour from at least 4 hours of film, so it's a very basic edit. Hopefully it's useful!
@matfenwick
Жыл бұрын
Thanks very much for the useful information regarding the input shaft oil shield - I've just started my first gearbox (late S3) rebuild, and after looking in the Haynes manual wondered whether a previous rebuilder had forgotten this.
@steamwally
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Mat, glad the videos are useful to you. Having just had a look, the Haynes manual does indeed show an oil shield on the primary bearing- but the factory series 3 Parts book and workshop manual do not. I could be wrong, but remember encountering this with the first gearbox I overhauled. I have it in mind that the oil shield is a series 2/2a part, required because of the different clutch release unit and lack of oil seal, they use a return scroll instead.
@steamwally
Жыл бұрын
Just had a look, part number RTC1954, discontinued in 1971 at Series 3 introduction.
@matfenwick
Жыл бұрын
Thank you again. I've also been somewhat reassured by your comments on the input shaft play...I was a little worried!
@willb7483
2 жыл бұрын
as always, a great video. Super informative which is really appreciated. Having just done my mainshaft, I make the point that you can also take out endfloat friom the mainshaft distance sleeve through the snap ring. Even if you buy OEM, they can be different thicknesses from different suppliers. Mine range from 80 thou to 99 thou. My feeling is they are meant to be around 93 thou. This is not in the manuals which were written in the days where you only used Land Rover genuine. So you need to make sure the sacrifical snap ring on the test fit is not thicker than the final snap ring, otherwise you could introduce more endfloat. Even from the same supplier, they can vary 3 or 4 thou. So it is worth doing. And it is very useful to be able to take out endfloat without chainging the thrust washers. You meed to measure the snap rings with a micrometer, Also I had to buy some snap ring pliers! I'm kind of against tools you only use once, but they may come in useful and not very expensice. If you grind off the nibs, they fit inside of 3rd gear to assist removal. From Amazon SPEEDWOX 8 Inches Lock Ring Pliers @ £12
@steamwally
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment, you make a very valid point and it may well save someone a lot of trouble! I generally buy genuine for things like snap rings and circlips for precisely this reason - it's always the small components that cause the trouble, one that sticks in my mind was trying to use non genuine thrust washers in a diff.. waste of time. Thanks for the suggestion of the snap ring pliers, I've just ordered a pair as they look far superior to what I have at the moment.
@My911
3 жыл бұрын
Lovely job. The same task only took my six months and four rebuilds so.... 😀
@steamwally
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks, well practice makes perfect so it won't give you any hassle now!
@sebastiancv4595
2 жыл бұрын
thanks a lot of good info
@ulesnoble7150
3 жыл бұрын
Did my gearbox 3 weeks ago, great video and very helpful. What bearing fit compound did you use? Jules
@lukenicholls2522
Ай бұрын
Did you load the gearbox in first and then the transfer box in the end? I've just been considering if that's a sensible plan. I'm thinking I could then run it through the gears and check everything's okay at that point to minimise the amount of disassembly required if it isn't.
@steamwally
Ай бұрын
I fitted the gearbox, then the transfer box, then the overdrive and then tested before installing the prop shafts. Having fitted transmission units in Land Rovers whole and in units, I much prefer the later method. Be aware that without load, when you test the transmission you'll hear all kinds of nasty backlashy sounds- loading up the drivetrain with the transmission brake should hush it up a little which will give you some idea how it's going. TBH, you won't really know until you're rolling down the road.
@firmansumarwan812
2 жыл бұрын
hi mate, is your landy is 109 series?
@jamiesaunders188
3 жыл бұрын
So you went with the one part bush. Any reason?
@steamwally
3 жыл бұрын
Yes, I used a two part bush in the box that WRD is currently running. It's pretty obvious that it failed quite earlier on, you get jumping out of 3rd usually and it will do that occasionally coasting downhill in 3rd. The aftermarket two part bushes are also quite badly made so you have to (very often) remove material from the flanged portion, you should only alter the length. The problem with the one part bush shearing seems to occur when the vehicle is driven hard (say towing up steep hills) in 2nd and 3rd gear for any length of time. For the more sympathetic use these vehicle get now it's not such an issue. As with any gearbox, getting into top gear as soon as possible is the best thing for it.
@skipmole612
4 ай бұрын
I think you are using the hydraulic press too much. There is always a risk of damaging an aluminium casing. Most viewers will not have a press anyway so it's useful to make them aware that warming the casing with a blowlamp causes it to expand and enable bearing housings to be dropped into place quite easily.
@steamwally
4 ай бұрын
If you want to see how it's done without the use of the press, see the previous set of gearbox overhaul videos. I'm a qualified engineer and I assure that this job is easier with the use of a hydraulic press and far less injurious to the components.
@jenpeterson3712
2 жыл бұрын
anybody looking for quality bronze bush unbreakable
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